sustainability

Couture: The Future of Fashion

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Crafting Tomorrow’s Wardrobe through Quality, Customization, and Conscious Production

On our journey to trace the future of fashion, Paris Haute Couture Week SS24 offers a chance to reinforce our viewpoint on the industry. What becomes evident is the link between couture and the sustainable paradigm needed to shape the industry’s trajectory.

SS24 Haute couture

Haute Couture for luxury houses serves as a mere reaffirmation of brand power. With an endless array of outfits, it appears evident that luxury brands – and the fashion industry as a whole – fall short of comprehending the essence of sustainability and adopting a long-term perspective.

This season, collections managed to break away from monotony. Gaultier by Simone Rocha impressively redefined the designer’s DNA, while Chanel exuded loveliness. The Gallianification of Margiela seemed finally completed. Beautiful, but no trace of Margiela anymore, if not for some tabi or the logo. Yet, it’s Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino, who earns the title of a true couturier, always impeccable in his superfine tailoring and magnificent creativity.

However, among the most elaborated and creative silhouettes typical of Haute Couture, more clean and perfectly tailored pieces completed the collections. Which translates into timeless, meaningful garments for everyday style. In fact, beyond the glamour, Haute Couture provides an opportunity to reflect on the future of fashion.

Couture & sustainable fashion

In its essence, couture means made-to-order garments of impeccable quality produced in limited quantities. Therefore, it inherently embodies sustainability. In this tailoring realm, quality takes precedence over quantity, focusing on the meticulous creation of timeless pieces that embody the ethos of minimalism.

Specifically, this sustainable essence of couture is a pattern that represents the future of fashion.

At its core, couture’s commitment to made-to-order garments, crafted with unparalleled quality, shatters the notion of disposable fashion. The bespoke nature of these creations allows for customization, fostering a connection between the wearer and the garment that transcends the fleeting trends of fashion.

Indeed, by opting for fewer pieces produced in limited quantities, artisanal production aligns with conscious consumption. It’s a departure from the relentless pursuit of newness. And a testament to the idea that true luxury lies in the careful curation of one’s wardrobe. Less but better.

As we trace the steps and missteps of fashion brands, one aspect becomes apparent. The future of fashion lies not in the mass production and fleeting trends but in the intentional creation of timeless pieces that endure beyond seasons. Couture serves as the vanguard and back to the past, revealing tomorrow’s wardrobe through quality, customization, and conscious production.
A blueprint for a fashion industry where sustainability and style seamlessly coexist.

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Behind the Seams: Fashion Industry & Forced Labour

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Understanding the Joint Roles of Brands and Consumers

Let’s delve “behind the seams” to unveil the link between the fashion industry and forced labour. The connection is robust, a topic often discussed yet incredibly overlooked by consumers despite the information.

In a recent post, we exposed the symbiotic relationship between luxury brands and fast fashion, both operating within the capitalistic framework. Today, we peel back another layer, examining recent cases.

Behind the seams of luxury brands

First, we happened to read a BOF post: “Luxury brands lag on efforts to reduce forced labour.” Reduce? But isn’t it appalling that brands discuss reducing forced labour instead of eliminating forced labour? By the way, the graphic in the attachment gathered luxury brands and fast fashion brands. All the most popular ones! (see it here).
Second, these days, the news reported the case of Alviero Martini. The company is under investigation for starving wages.

These two elements confirm our thesis: luxury brands and fast fashion share the same pattern, just for different pockets. But, above all, they highlight how deeply this issue is rooted in the fashion system, revealing it as a consolidated practice to maximise profit.

Also, it is interesting to notice that luxury brands often blame fast fashion while hiding their practices that are no different! Luxury brands exploit people’s work precisely as fast fashion does. Whatever the “made in” label says.

According to “Knowthechain” – a non-profit organisation:
“Today, an estimated 24.9 million people around the world are victims of forced labour, generating $150 billion in illegal profits in the private economy.”

Forced labour & modern-day slavery

Forced labour refers to individuals compelled to work against their will, under threat of punishment or coercion. In other words, individuals suffer exploitation as they are deprived of their freedom, coerced into labour without fair remuneration, and subjected to conditions over which they have no control. Forced labour can take various forms, including human trafficking, debt bondage, and other forms of modern slavery, and it is a violation of fundamental human rights as well as international labour standards.

Although condemned and prohibited by national and international laws, the practice is widespread. What’s worse? People, through their purchases, endorse this despicable system.

The fashion industry has no moral fabric, just as individuals who ignore the issue despite the available information.

Are you willing to shut your eyes when buying a logoed bag?
Did you know there’s an alternative? Small, independent brands offer luxury handbags with the finest materials, quality and skilled craftsmanship, all at just 1/3 the price of a branded bag. But while the logoed ones may be easy to sell, only a niche audience can appreciate true quality.

Your decisions as a consumer can shape an industry that values humanity over profit. Don’t compromise ethics over status.

What happens “behind the seams,” the dark connection between the fashion industry and forced labour, is extensively covered in the media. Read, share, and take action. But do not close your eyes. Ignorance is not an option; it’s time to confront the truth.

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Top Brands vs Fast Fashion

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Searching for Value in an Oversaturated Fashion Industry

In a world where fashion has become synonymous with rapid turnover and mass production, the line between top brands vs fast fashion is blurred. But, in this oversaturated market, where can we find value?

Top brands and fast fashion are two faces of the same coin. Indeed, they offer the same worldview, just for different pockets. The reason is quite simple: by operating within the economic framework of capitalism, fashion has become a matter of stock exchange more than creativity. In fact, it has shifted its focus from creativity and innovation to financial transactions. Transforming itself into a game of numbers, budgets and unsustainable growth.

Over the last two decades, top brands pursued the logic of perpetual renewal, a characteristic of fast fashion brands. Consequently, overproduction has spiraled out of control, leading to the evident consequences we witness today. And blurring the line between the two segments.

Fast fashion unsustainable & unethical

Fast fashion is unsustainable and unethical. It capitalises on a business model that disregards environmental impacts and exploits individuals, perpetuating modern-day slavery. While it offers the latest trends and affordable prices, this exploitative approach comes at a significant cost to both people and the planet.

Top brands & luxury products

Interestingly, the narrative surrounding top brands isn’t all about substance. By following fast fashion timing and constant renewal of their products, top brands have stopped offering value. In fact, expensive doesn’t always correspond to a higher quality. Specifically, the correlation between exorbitant prices and superior quality is not guaranteed. Luxury products, often draped in prestigious branding, can often be nothing more than low-quality items benefitting from their labels’ reputation. Easy to sell right because of the brand. Quality is an illusion crafted by marketing.

In short, fast fashion results in poor quality, disposable items, and exploitative production systems. But, by following the same exploitative system, luxury clothing does not equate to superior quality.

A beacon of style: niche fashion

Among this very crowded fashion panorama, can we still find meaningful products?

In this labyrinth of fashion excess, there’s a beacon of hope: niche fashion. Within the cluttered panorama of mainstream brands and fast fashion giants, niche fashion emerges as a ray of authenticity through meaningful garments.

Niche fashion, unlike its mass-produced counterparts, operates on a different wavelength. It focuses on craftsmanship and uniqueness. By valuing quality over quantity, these brands avoid the pitfalls of overproduction and unethical practices.

These brands pride themselves on transparency, showcasing the stories behind their products, the sourcing of materials, and the artisans behind the scenes. In a world inundated with generic trends, niche fashion stands tall, offering individuals the chance to express themselves authentically through their clothing choices.

Most importantly, these brands contribute to a shift in consumer mentality. They advocate for conscious consumption, encouraging individuals to invest in fewer, higher-quality pieces that align with their values rather than succumbing to fleeting trends.

As consumers, it’s crucial to reevaluate our relationship with fashion. The power lies in our choices. Supporting niche fashion means endorsing a more sustainable, ethical, and genuine approach to style.

Within the fashion industry, navigating through the competing narratives of fast fashion vs top brands, our pursuit of value and meaning directs us towards niche fashion. In this space, we uncover a deeper connection between the garments we choose, the stories they tell, and their impact on our world.

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2023: A Pivotal Year in Climate History

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The Climate Crisis Impact on the Fashion Industry

2023 represents a pivotal year in climate history. In a sobering report by the Copernicus Climate Change Service (C3S), 2023 has emerged as the hottest year documented since 1850.

2023, the turning point in climate history

The global temperature surge has peaked at a staggering 1.48°C, alarmingly near the critical 1.5°C threshold. Specifically, September stands out as the hottest month on record, painting a stark reality check after the mockery of the recent climate summit in Dubai. In other words, the earth is about to cross the critical threshold, breaching the Paris Agreement target to keep global warming under that to prevent the most severe consequences.

Even if the world has not breached the 1.5° target, temperatures have surpassed the 1.5°C target on almost half the days of 2023, which sets a concerning precedent.

The cause behind this alarming spike is the unprecedented levels of carbon dioxide emissions, coupled with the return of the natural climate phenomenon, El Niño. Above all, our persistent inaction and procrastination in addressing necessary measures for 2050!

Immediate action, not in 2050!

So far, we’ve been grappling with droughts, wildfires, floods, and other extreme weather events. Now, it’s time to reconsider our approach to climate adaptation. Reshape it fundamentally.

What is the solution? It lies in immediate and concerted efforts to slash emissions. Now! Not in 2050! Every fraction of a degree in temperature rise intensifies the severity of catastrophic weather occurrences.

Fashion industry & climate emergency

The fashion industry is not immune to these effects, evidenced by the challenging sales of knitwear and outerwear during the Fall/Winter 23 season. Unfortunately, this hasn’t prompted significant shifts in how brands curate and sell their collections or how retailers conduct their buying and selling operations.

Fashion brands and corporations babble something about Net zero and green growth. But, their reluctance to embrace meaningful change relegates these promises to a vague future. A future far removed from the immediate concerns. And a future that when it becomes a reality, purchasing fashion items will be the last thing crossing people’s minds.

To the fashion industry: 2023 marks a crucial turning point in the history of our climate. What more do we need to witness before taking decisive action? What are we waiting for?

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Understanding The Fashion System

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The Truth Behind Sales & Markdowns

Understanding the fashion system involves exposing the hidden environmental costs of frequent fashion promotions and sales. Aiming for sustainability in the fashion industry is critical to saving the planet.

Sales used to occur at the end of the season only. But now, promotions and markdowns are frequent. What’s changed in the fashion industry? Since fashion became finance and brands became properties of corporations, profit has been the only logic guiding the fashion industry. Corporations use overproduction to maximise profit; sales are part of the game.

The negative impact of fashion sales

Sales apparently are a way to get a deal on clothing and other products. But, they contribute to a bigger problem in our society: the value of clothing and the labour that goes into making it is not recognised. In other words, sales devalued product quality and labour.

Sales perpetuate an unsustainable production cycle that harms our planet. To support this profit-driven system, they fuel impulsive buying, encouraging people to buy things they don’t need. Additionally, when brands play a pricing game with their products, it can call into question their credibility. On the one hand, brands praise the value of their products. But a month later, this value has halved. Who are they kidding?

However, overconsumption and overproduction are two faces of the same coin: capitalism, an economic system that values profits above all else. 

Despite the apparent fascination, thinking individuals should consider the detrimental impact of sales on the planet and people. With overproduction and fashion waste visible from space, the fashion industry significantly contributes to climate crises, biodiversity loss, and environmental degradation. In fact, the recent UN guidelines underscore the urgent need to combat unsustainable consumption patterns.

The call is clear: curbing overconsumption. To do so, we must acknowledge sales and frequent markdowns as symptoms of a profit-oriented system that harms our environment. But, to find solutions, first, we must grasp how the fashion system operates.

The fashion system: who does it work?

Brands pressure retailers to meet escalating budget demands each season (minimum amount or quantity). That leads to excessive purchasing beyond actual retailers’ demand. To ensure profits for brands, retailers buy more than they can sell.
Excess inventory drives up retail prices because high quantities of merchandise are sold only during sales. So, higher prices throughout the season partially cover this loss.
Lastly, overstock forces retailers into a cycle of frequent discounts and promotions, aiming to encourage more purchases from end consumers.

This interconnected cycle of consumption and production cannot be rectified by addressing only one aspect without considering the other. In this context, we cannot trust brands who preach sustainable fashion.

Solutions: sustainable fashion practices

Sustainable fashion practices for retailers: Stop Sales! 

• Reduce the quantities of clothing and accessories ordered per season. If brands do not accept lower orders, do not buy from them. By preventing overstock, retailers can maintain fair prices throughout the year. Both retailers and consumers would benefit from this.
• Refrain from excessive discount events like Black Fridays, promotions, and sales. Customers are no longer willing to buy at the true value of a garment.
• Educate consumers to prioritise quality over quantity, investing in durable, timeless pieces and understanding the value behind their purchases.

What Consumers Can Do: be agents of change!

• Don’t contribute to the climate crisis. Change the system: make conscious choices. 
• Buy less, much less during the season. Take only quality items that complement your existing wardrobe; reuse clothes.
• Avoid trendy items; embrace a timeless aesthetic that transcends fleeting fashion. Remember, quality endures – good design transcends trends. It doesn’t have an expiry date.

Ultimately, sales aren’t sustainable. Understanding the fashion system, how brands’ pressure on retailers drives over-purchasing, inflates retail prices, prompting endless discounts, and addressing both consumption and overproduction, is vital for impactful change.

At suite123, we prioritise good design, timeless fashion, and conscious consumption. And we care about people and the planet. Therefore, we do not endorse sales. 

Let’s make conscious decisions about what we consume, nurturing a sustainable world for generations to come.

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