Milano Fashion Week – ‘Rewiring fashion’ they said?

Back to back, physical fashion shows, digital presentations. Both, in some cases. All perfectly aligned with the pre-pandemic world. You can smell the status quo. And not for fear or lack of courage, rather because that’s the way to make money.

More than anything else, the urgent brands’ intent seemed the will to connect with the Chinese market. This quest reverberated like a scream or a cry for help in the majority of the presentations.

The only new element (in case we still want to consider it so) is the calling of a diverse flood of models. Now different silhouettes or ethnicities are well represented in fashion events, and it is clearly positive. Although it’s lovely that anyone can identify with the models and see how dresses fit on various body shapes, the problem is that many of these new generations of boys and girls have no sense of elegance. So the image of these fashion shows looks poorly.

The Roof Milano

It is not that now the trend is more sporty, it is the comment we heard during a fashion show. It’s that elegance is dead. Culturally dead, in wearing, speaking, or living.

Most importantly, there is no shift in terms of communication. Indeed, what emerged is the same way of spreading the work. Perhaps with a further decrease of the overall perceived value. The Instagram way seemed still relevant, with all the related circus. Which, by the way, we found boring. If not annoying.
We are fed up with it, aren’t you?

The official press, or what remains of it, can only be condescending or applauding. Budgets for advertising are already cut to the bones, better avoid any further reduction.

Designers are creatives, and creatives are supposed to have views about style, life, and the future.

What is the vision?
What kind of woman do they want to promote?
What kind of future do they want to see?

Apart from the empty marketing slogans, which want to represent the (fake) change, what are we talking about?

The Straight Leg Pants

When we talk about the perfect fitting, some look at us as we are mad. Or we are trying to fool them. Yes, in the overproduction era, people believe clothes are all the same.

In fact, we are a little obsessed with the perfect fit because this reveals an accurate design. Specifically, what stands at the base of a garment, giving it the proper structure.
Nowadays it’s known that people are used to whatever is cheap. So the quality of materials, just like the fit, is not taken into account. People accept modern slavery just to buy fast fashion. Would they ever question quality?

However, we question what we see as we obsessively look for good design.
The search for the perfect fit for trousers has its specific meaning. While you can adjust here and there a top or a dress to make it look good, pants must have the perfect cut.

And so we laid our eyes upon the special one: The Straight-Leg Pants. By Plantation – a Japanese brand born sustainable in 1982.

the straight leg pants
The Straight Leg Pants – Plantation

Made of 100% Supima cotton, it’s a soft fabric with an elegant luster like a silk blend. This classic stretch material got renewed: the brushed reverse side makes it comfortable for the Autumn / Winter season.

Also, with its soft stretch and warmth but not too thick hand, you can wear it immediately from September when the weather is still warm.
And since the pockets on both sides are slit pockets, the waistline looks neat.

The colour? Black. Easy-to-use and easy to match with any item.
Indeed, the styling possibilities for this wardrobe staple are countless. The slender silhouette goes well with dresses and tunics, too. Try the casual style with a rolled-up hem.

The composition is: 98% cotton – 2% polyurethane
You can wash it by hand.

We tested it on different body shapes and are delighted to tell you that the fitting is absolutely fantastic!
Yes, we don’t need too many pieces. We only need the right ones.

Please, contact us for any further information.

Spring/Summer 22 – Selection in the digital era

One of the most striking side effects of the pandemic is the acceleration towards the digital world. And when it comes to the research of brands, it can bring some positive outcomes.

In September and October, the designers show their new collections for the following season. We are now picking out our Spring/Summer 22 selection.

Some brands opted for a mixed formula, physical and digital, while many others decided to present their new collections only through digital tools. So, like it or not, that’s the offer.
Obviously, companies in the fashion field lost a lot of money because of the pandemic. Digital is a strategy to recover. Also, they realized how few people they needed to make the workflow internationally. (This loss of jobs is its own problem).

We are not satisfied with the trend of discovering new brands via Instagram only. First, the communication of many brands is oriented to push the image of a woman we do not want to endorse: plastic face, doughnut lips, tons of make-up. Furthermore, it’s easy to cover up poor quality clothing in an Instagram pic.

Scrolling down, you may see so many infinite offers of clothing that seem like beautiful quality. At first sight, at least. After a deeper analysis, you realize it was just a nice pic. Fast fashion brands know this trick very well.

A satisfying implication of digital fashion is that material is more accessible compared to the past. In fact, we are receiving many look books and line sheets. So that it’s easier to have an idea of what’s going on in terms of style.
Through accurate presentations and line sheets, you have the chance of knowing more about materials and fitting.

If it is true that nothing will ever change the experience of touching the fabrics, now we have the opportunity to make a selection without travelling the world.
Even though the integration is brilliant, we have to find the perfect balance.

The decline of luxury – Why?

If you want to understand the events that caused the decline of luxury, we suggest you read ‘Deluxe: How luxury lost its luster’ – written by Dana Thomas.

You will discover how fashion from being a family-owned business became a corporate battlefield based on overproduction.

The growth of the new markets – China, Russia, and India. The explosion of counterfeiting goods and labour exploitation.
Then, the rise of fast fashion, internet retailers and the development of a fast-paced globalized system. How luxury products abandoned exclusivity and shifted to the masses. Creating the so-called democratic luxury. Which basically is nonsense. Indeed it shows how far marketing rhetoric can go, playing with words to manipulate people.

The book is a brilliant analysis of the field, investigating the dynamics that led to an auto-implosion.
Also, it allowed us to relive the last 30 years of fashion. We assisted many of those events – not by accepting them but by moving more and more towards niche designers. Finding a kind of refuge in a tiny universe. A thoughtful research in dissonance with the average fashion consumer.

Though we agree with almost everything, we do not align with the devotion to some brands. We are afraid they have lost their luster too, so far – except for Hermes and Cadolle.

It’s indeed extremely difficult to find meaning in luxury Maisons now. They seem like smoke and mirrors set up to sell perfumes, make-up and bags. Abundantly offered to masses that have no perception beyond the logo and the illusion of being considered rich.

If you still love fashion, you go beyond that fake facade and search for designers who dared to undertake an independent path, expressing an authentic creative vision. In this panorama, the ability to select the right clothing – from an aesthetic and ethical viewpoint – changes the game.

The Oversized Blouson

Unpacking new arrivals is always a happy moment. We are taking this chance to introduce you to our Fall/Winter 21 pieces as soon as they come in.

As fashion news reports these days, fast fashion is booming, back to the pre-pandemic levels. Like nothing happened.
Overproduction and overconsumption are still ruling. Why question it!

However, we moved in the opposite direction, our worldview is different, and we believe in a more conscious way to live and work.
‘Consume less’ is the imperative, a lifestyle approach from now on. With these words written on a post-it in front of us, we made our selection for the coming season. And for the following ones too.
We only select clothing that makes a difference.

For the Fall/Winter season, we picked out a beautiful oversized blouson. It’s from ZUCCA – a Japanese brand known to a fashion-conscious audience for its unique cuts and design.

The Oversized Blouson

The material is sweatshirt – 100% cotton. Therefore you may expect a sporty garment. But, it is not. The hand of the fabric is shiny and stiff, providing a unique texture to the jacket. When we select a sweatshirt, it is never too casual. Surely, we do not renounce elegance.

Asymmetric side buttoned, it has a wide collar and a loose silhouette.
The line is stylish and comfortable. All the stitching details along the inside are made with special care. So it will look neat even when worn unbuttoned.

The colour? Mustard yellow. This season we need some bright hues to boost a sense of joy. You can match it with soft tones for an understated outfit or with bright colours to stand out. The final result is up to you, your personality or your mood.

Last but not least, you can wash it by hand.

We are happy to help you with style advice or any discussion that may arise about fashion and lifestyle.

Product placement vs consumer awareness

Among various methods corporations use to keep women hooked to their brands, product placement is on top. Yes, corporations. That’s what luxury conglomerates are. And it gives the pulse on their work.

During the 80s, Giorgio Armani was the first who started dressing Hollywood stars in order to sell to the American middle-class. In a perspective of massive overproduction and an ever-growing economy, perhaps that strategy made sense.
By the way, Armani, followed by all the other designers right away, started giving outfits for free to the stars, and women – the so-called middle class – promptly bought them.

Now the economy is not in good shape, and the middle class swiped away. More importantly, we opened our eyes, so we are tired of being treated as fishing lures. Therefore we find some specific marketing techniques obsolete, if not meaningless.

What’s the point of stars wearing luxury designer’s clothes on the red carpets when it’s known they don’t pay for the clothes?
Does it still make sense?

In fact, what makes it sound absurd is that they can afford to pay, but they don’t. In other words, those who can afford clothes don’t purchase them, while those who can’t are supposed to.

There’s no logic in this anymore. What if celebrities purchase their outfits and designers donate the proceeds to charity?

However, we should also dig deeper into those impressed by ‘the rich Milanese’ showing off her outfits on social media. And women promptly buy. Indeed we die a little for this lack of self-esteem.

Since we weren’t all born with good taste, looking for guidance is the right way to avoid weird outfits. But asking for advice is different from imitating someone else’s style.

Marketing has always targeted women because, traditionally, they are considered fragile and easy to influence or manipulate. And the sad thing is that we allowed them to do so.

Let’s evolve now.

Not for all – Arrogance or honesty?

When we say that our work is not for everyone, it shouldn’t be seen as a sign of arrogance. On the contrary, if you ponder a little on the true meaning, you will perceive that it denotes a genuine and realistic approach.

Can we truly please everyone? No, obviously, we cannot.
To illustrate, if you usually buy fast fashion, you’ll never check out our selection. If you like to show off logo emblazoned garments, we are not for you. If you are a passive consumer, perhaps you will not interact with us.

Pleasing everyone is a naive goal, and though it’s impossible to accomplish, the downside of trying is that it generates a bazaar of elements. A fragmented and undefined proposal where everything is possible, but nothing stands out. Because there is no soul. No clarity.
The truth is that you have to be honest to say that what you do is not for everyone.

Over about twenty-five years in the fashion field, we saw the rise and fall of the system. A fast-paced environment in which profit and marketing took over creativity. And ultimately, it led to the exploitation of people and the planet. This system now needs a new air, something more beyond that glossy facade. Creative visions supported by a conscious approach.

We are a drop in the ocean, but we are trying to bring a different viewpoint, providing a deeper meaning to fashion, and rediscovering its true beauty. And therefore evolve to the next level.

Our selection and thoughts are for those who appreciate the value of unconventional work that falls outside an imposed system. We aim to interact with individuals who are not passive consumers but active thinkers. Those who want to be informed because they are not stuck in the past or constrained by pointless rules but constantly evolving.

Entering the season – Fall/Winter 21

Soon we will start introducing our selection for the coming season – Fall/Winter 2021.

We are going forward with a certain sense of slowness. The ‘Hurry-up’ attitude is part of the status quo, which none seems interested in questioning (but we do). In fact, from N.Y. to Paris and Milano, the bandwagon of fashion shows is starting again following the same stale rules.

However, keeping in mind our timeless approach, let’s go through the garments we have selected for you. For us, as well.

First, the perfect pants. One wide-leg version, one straight-leg. Both in Supima cotton. The material has a shiny finishing that makes it look like silk. Moreover, a special treatment makes it warm too.

Then, we found a couple of basic knits in a striped jersey. There’s a boat-neck version and a turtle-neck. Slightly loose fit, they are the perfect complement to multiple outfits.

Of course, we couldn’t miss an asymmetric oversized pull in extra-fine wool. The worsted yarn makes the texture very soft.

Also, we’ll show you a cool cardigan designed as a whole garment. It means there are no shoulders or side seams, so it is very comfortable to wear.

As a more elegant piece, we picked a sleeveless v-neck boxy dress, under-knee length. Three fabrics with different textures are sewn together and then pleated. Unique!

A maxi collar blouson looks so stylish even when worn unbuttoned.
And a cocoon sleeved maxi dress. The texture is dry and soft.

There’s also a boxy sweater with a horizontal line at the body. It comes in soft lambswool.

Lastly, the sweatshirt is never too casual. We picked one with a zipped detail so you can wear it backside front too.

We thought we needed some colours to boost our mood. Therefore our palette goes from comforting tones to some bright hues.
Black, grey, off-white, camel, green, mustard, yellow, purple.

Please, check our Instagram account to see the new arrivals and stay in touch with us.
We’d love to hear from you!

The niche choice

When it comes to fashion or lifestyle choices, you have two options: take the most popular brands or search for what’s different.

Likewise, you can go on holidays where crowds go or search for your places, out of the beaten path.

Needless to say that we tend to go for the latter. And if you interact with us – in person or through our digital world – you are on the same page. Perhaps, as we did, you have seen everything in fashion, and now you want more.

So we look for what we call niche designers, niche brands.
And it’s not that we don’t like popular brands. Indeed, we could handpick some cool items out of those collections. But, we love to search for something more unique. For a style that is special, and not immediately recognizable. Therefore, more personal.
That style is you.

What are the keys we use to analyze fashion collections?

Design and style
First, we are attracted by the designer’s viewpoint, what the brand is bringing in. From what we consider a valuable style proposal, we pick out the pieces we like. Which, then, are reviewed from other perspectives to match our quality standards. The construction and fitting, how the garment falls. Wearing occasion and materials. The price point.

Timeless aesthetic
We select items that you can wear for a long time. If some pieces recall a fashion trend, it is never too much to make those items seem old the season after. Indeed, our pieces always look fashion-forward.

Seasonless
We tend to select items that you can wear during the whole year long. By layering, you can use them not only during a given season. It avoids fashion cycles and so the ‘buy & toss’ attitude.

Comfortable
Pieces that you can wear on multiple occasions, but you are never out of place.

Of course, a niche selection is not for everyone. But that makes it even more special.