The fashion month: a step backward

What did you expect from the SS23 fashion shows?

The fashion month is over, and the idea of changing it vanished among global hysteria.

From NY, London, Milano and Paris, the Spring/ Summer 23 runways favoured the physical format plus streaming. But some brands opted to reveal the digital version later, not without leaving a certain perplexity. Because this way of looking for an angle, being the cool ones who pull themselves out, seemed more like a step backwards in a digital era.

However, there were so many outfits on the runways, most of which were ugly and just a few interesting concepts. And stealing designs, now the norm killed brands’ identity.
But if you expected a different approach, you would be disappointed. The wind of change, so much discussed during the last two years, is gone. Disappeared. Evaporated!

Fashion month: the industry is back to normal

And in case you were one of those afraid of a back to normal during the pandemic, there we are! Totally there! 100% there!

The countless number of outfits put together in every show was impressive. Such an endless overconsumption pattern has nothing to do with change. And nothing to do with sustainability.

Furthermore, one of the most popular shows sent out a model
in underwear, and then someone sprayed on her body. From an engineering viewpoint, it can be interesting, even if McQueen did it first in Spring 99. But it doesn’t seem to be sustainable. Indeed the material sprayed contains plastic, so it sounds like they are promoting single-use plastic.

Even though facts did not correspond to words, all the big groups claim the sustainability umbrella.

Fashion lacks consistency

The fashion industry seems like an enormous bandwagon with no courage or maybe no real will to change. And the reason is simple. Changing the pattern leads to degrowth, which means lower budgets. And so, lower profits.

But if brands are so interested in showing their sustainable standards, why was there no trace of it in their fashion shows? Do we still believe that using a sustainable material or building an eco-friendly atelier makes a brand sustainable? No, it only builds up a facade.

As revealed through this fashion month, this industry, which relies on a polluting and exploiting system, has no intention to change.

So please, forget all the talks you may have heard in the last two years! Industry players just had a reactive moment because they worried about losing everything. Now that the fear is gone, so is the will to change!

The Asymmetric T-Shirt

Today we introduce The Asymmetric T-Shirt by Marc Le Bihan.

It is an iconic piece of clothing handcrafted in Marc Le Bihan Parisian atelier for a niche audience. In fact, that is what Marc Le Bihan does: couture fashion, garments you will wear for a lifetime because couture is forever. 

And once you wear it, you feel it. You see how it beautifully falls on your body. Indeed, it is an example of good design for people who want something different. It is modern and timeless at the same time. Also minimal but cool.

Discover The Asymmetric T-Shirt

About the design
This couture t-shirt has a side stitching that creates an asymmetric cut revealing a ruffled effect. The silhouette, spiralling around the body, is flattering and timeless. Round neckline. Long-sleeved with wide cuffs featuring a side hole to provide a glove effect. Raw cut hemline and detailing. 

About the material
100% cotton. Specifically, dyed by hand cotton. And the texture is ribbed and very soft. So it feels comfortable when you wear it. Really, you would never take it off!

The Asymmetric T-Shirt
The Symmetric T-Shirt
Marc Le Bihan

About the colour 
Aubergine: a rich purple hue that contributes to enhancing an understated luxury image. And you can match it with many other colours, from neutral tones to dark ones.

Laundry
Wash by hand – easy care.
You can wash this product by hand in cold water. 
Please wash it separately. Cool iron it on the reverse side.

Style tips
The Asymmetric T-Shirt is stylish but easy to wear. Indeed, you can easily match it with your clothes. It enriches your jeans or black trousers. And try it under a blazer for your work wear outfits.

We ship everywhere!

We are based in Milano, but we ship our niche selection #formodernhumans everywhere.

Drop us an email or WhatsApp for any further information. Also, you can book your private shopping experience – physical or via video call. We’d love to help!

What’s going on in Iran?

A protest spreading all over the world

What’s going on in Iran is appalling and cannot go unnoticed. It’s about women, and it’s about human rights. And so, we cannot turn our heads.

In early September, the morality police arrested Masha Amini, a 22 years old Kurdish girl. Why? Because she didn’t wear her hijab properly. Just reading this news feels insane and gut-wrenching!
Led to a re-education camp, she had a cardiac arrest and fell into a coma. Three days later, she died.

Witnesses said Misha Amini was brutally beaten by the authorities. As a consequence of this horrible death, Iranian people started big riots on the streets. Also calling for the fall of the regime – the Islamic Republic – a dictatorship that has subjugated people for decades.

In Iran, there’s no freedom of expression or association. Women, LGBTQ people and minorities are discriminated against and abused. And women are forced to wear a hijab from the age of nine.
Indeed religion is the tool in the hands of the dictatorship to suppress freedom and control people.

Iran protests
Marco Melgrati Illustration

Despite the regime’s atrocity, to protests over Mahsa Amini’s death, women in Iran started cutting off their hair. Soon the protests spread everywhere. In fact, in solidarity with Iranians, women around the world have cut or shaved their hair in public.
Also, Iran’s national team wore plain black jackets over their uniforms in Qatar.

Protesting in democratic countries plays a role as an expression of democracy. But rioting where people risk the death penalty really means having guts.

Therefore, what happens in Iran is something we need to share and discuss in order to spread awareness and solidarity.

Even though we cannot add new pieces of information, we cannot stay silent. And what really counts is that we all can contribute to giving voice to the Iranians.

An interview with Takafumi Sekine

The man behind Meagratia

Takafumi Sekine is the man behind Meagratia, and we took the opportunity to interview him to discover more about his brand.

In search of good design, which doesn’t necessarily belong to the mainstream fashion universe, we discovered Meagratia, a Japanese brand with a subtle sense of fashion and uncommon creativity.

The brand imagery is modern but somehow delicate. Indeed, it plays with a genderless and timeless aesthetic through a contemporary perspective. So, a unique take on where style flows without constraints.

Takafumi Sekine / Meagratia: the interview

Discover more about the designer universe:

• What is your background?
Takafumi Sekine: “I started Meagratia because I wanted to create for others the joy I felt when I wore my favourite clothes as a student. I design interesting things by fusing the history and birth of fashion with modern sensibilities.”

• How would you describe your brand identity?
Takafumi Sekine: “Meagratia creates clothes that the wearers can enjoy in their own way.”

An interview with Takafumi Sekine

• It seems that flowers are a recurring inspiration. Right?
Takafumi Sekine: “Flowers are precious and change, not only when they are in bloom but also as dried flowers. Meagratia creations suggest a quality that changes with time but does not wither.”

• We notice many details in your garments. How do they contribute to your sense of design?
Takafumi Sekine: “It all starts with the desire to create something interesting and new. I take inspiration from various sources and I incorporate them into my design. So, using many details and variations allows a wider range of wearing styles and unusual ways of presenting them.”

• Why do you use the Sakiori technique (rag weaving) for your collection?
Takafumi Sekine: “For our Autumn/Winter knitwear, we created an upcycled design using surplus fabrics. However, the technology and attitude of the factory we work with towards new things are also excellent and play an important role in our collaboration.”

• What do you think about the fashion industry now?
Takafumi Sekine: “On the positive side, both industry and consumers have more choices nowadays, but on the other hand, there are some difficulties. I believe that the consumerist society is gradually changing these days. But I am also concerned about the ageing of craftspeople with excellent skills and the problem of passing these important skills down.”

Meagratia, cool design #formodernhumans

Meagratia’s design is cool, and the quality is excellent. The clothes communicate timelessness. Boundaries, male or female, are blurred, but the style is never jarring for whoever wears them. 

And so, there is a sense of freedom in Takafumi Sekine’s vision, which allows people who wear his clothes to create their personal style. The real essence of fashion.

The Brushed Stripe T-shirt

FW 22-23 new arrivals

Today we introduce The Brushed Stripe T-shirt by Zucca.

A piece that stands out but it is easy to wear and comfortable. Also, the aesthetic is seasonless, the quality of the material excellent, and the design is cool.

About the design
Cotton short-sleeved T-shirt with a paint brush drawing design along the front and solid colour back. Some maxi stripes have imperfect lines that resemble a brush stroke. And this paint effect creates a punkish mood. Also, the silhouette is boxy with a round neckline.

About the material
The material is 100% cotton. Specifically, it is sturdy cotton which is seasonless. Also, it has good elasticity and a non-glossy hand.

The Brushed Striped T-shirt

About the colour
Grey base with a white maxi stripe design, a two-tone combination with a matte effect. The front is bicolour, and the back is monochrome. The mood is punkish but refined. And we opted for this colour combination because we like the idea of this particularly sophisticated contrast. It stands out without being aggressive.

Laundry
Wash by hand – easy care.
This product can be hand washed at home in cold water, but do not iron directly on the print. Cool iron it on the reverse side with a cloth in between.

How to style The Brushed T-shirt

Style tips
The Brushed Stripe T-shirt is a beautiful garment, eye-catching but easy to wear. And it is perfect with the white denim trousers we have just posted. But you can also pair it with a black bottom, and it will stand out. Even though short-sleeved when the weather gets cold, you can wear a basic long-sleeved t-shirt underneath. And also a jacket over works well. Indeed, layering style is what you need to wear your garments throughout the year.

We ship everywhere!

Drop us an email or WhatsApp for any further information. Also, you can book your private shopping experience – physical or via video call. We’d love to help!

Fashion and Politics

How fashion outlines a political view

Fashion and politics are connected, and some people in the field release straightforward statements.

The Italian elections, held yesterday, caused concern about the risk of undermining what our parents and grandparents have tried to achieve so far. Something that still was a work in progress but now looks more like a “work in regress.” A political and cultural setback considering it is the first far-right government since Mussolini. Yes, it sounds scary.

Politicians shouting out loud worked to exacerbate a climate of hate. And since people don’t learn from history, repeating mistakes looks like the outcome.

So, in this panorama, we found it interesting reading the thought of Pierpaolo Piccioli. One of the most prominent figures in the fashion industry took a clear stance on politics and Italian elections.

Can fashion be political?

Let’s start with a premise. When fashion pinpoints words such as inclusion, diversity or genderless, it envisions a specific worldview. And that vision of the world has a lot to do with politics, indeed.

So, in a time when some acquired rights are at risk, and that worldview based on ideas that bring people together, accepting all the differences may be swept away. And individual freedom and choices can vanish, it’s good to see people in the fashion industry who aren’t afraid to speak up.

Fashion politics

Pierpaolo Piccioli (Valentino’s designer), from his Instagram account, released a very on-point and heartfelt statement. He spoke in support of freedom, women’s choices on independent decisions about themselves and their bodies, and gender that doesn’t have to be only male or female. Indeed, he released a political statement calling himself “a man of the left.”

Perhaps, using words lightly when the world goes insane is not enough. Therefore, we must speak up to support the world we want and put our face on.

Whatever happens, we share what Piccioli wrote. We promote a world that values different cultures. And inclusion, diversity, human rights, women’s rights, and LGBTQ rights. Indeed we must respect everyone’s rights. It’s the worldview for modern humans.

But, in the end, we wake up today with a lesson to learn: never give our rights for granted!

Fashion weeks and research

Critical thinking #formodernhumans

Fashion weeks used to offer ideas for doing research, highlighting details worth considering to put together and defining a specific selection. So it was in the past.

And so, these days, we keep an eye on the international events, from New York to London and now Milano. Of course, Paris and Tokyo too. But so far, we are perplexed about what we see.

Fashion weeks vs change

Indeed, the discussion on changing the industry, which was so popular during the pandemic, has disappeared from the scene.
It seems that the fashion industry is an enormous system that doesn’t know how to renovate itself. And so, brands keep up with the same thing they used to do.

Even the language feels boring, like an out-of-tune mantra. And you realise that words like sustainability, timeless or genderless are on everyone’s lips. Just empty claims for people who don’t think.

And they all talk about the same things, but nothing ever changes. Furthermore, the world is falling apart, but it looks like brands are only interested in dressing music or movie stars. That’s what you can offer? Really? Celebrities! They have the money to buy whatever they want, but they don’t pay for their clothes.

When it comes to design and style, you may be even more perplexed. Of course, designers cannot deliver brand-new concepts. But lately, what the industry calls freedom or inclusion seems just bad taste combined with a lack of vision.

Fashion weeks vs research

Therefore, when we need to research unique garments for people like us, the widest part of the work happens through lookbooks we receive via email. And through some specific research that we do online. Then, possibly, showrooms too.

In the end, you’ll get more value from brands that have something to say, and you can see it through their meaningful design rather than those who want to attract herds of replicants who look all the same.

Above all, fashion weeks as a pure waste of money having an impact on the environment, are pointless.

The Semi-Flared Jeans

FW 22-23 new arrivals

Today we introduce The Semi-Flared Jeans – by Zucca.

At a slow pace, we are entering the new Fall/ Winter 2022-23 season. By the way, slow fashion also means introducing the items when it makes sense. The modern habit of selling winter items during the summer season, or vice versa, is a system conceived to promote overconsumption. So we should all leave it behind because it is not sustainable.

Indeed, we are receiving some great new pieces we ordered during the previous selling campaign. And so, these days, we are unpacking the garments and quality checking.
Like two kids in a candy shop, we review the pieces and can’t wait to start introducing each item in detail.

So we’ll start with something you can wear immediately.
Of course, the concepts of good design and quality to provide a timeless style are always the focus. It’s all about serving you with meaningful pieces made to last.

New arrivals: The Semi-Flared Jeans

The Semi-Flared Jeans

About the design
These white denim trousers have a semi-flared silhouette, high-waisted line, and five pockets. Also, there’s a front zip closure plus a button. The cut of these jeans stands out and enhances your silhouette. Indeed, this item is basic but so stylish.

About the material
The material is 100% cotton: thick and smooth organic cotton suitable for cold weather. And the garment is washed to get a unique hand-feel effect.

About the colour
White: inspired by tailored, work wear, military, and punk styles. And so, a monochrome colour that creates a cool and sophisticated mood.

Laundry
Wash by hand separately.

Style tips: these jeans are the perfect item to start the season in style. They are easy to mix with tops and jackets and perfect for your workwear. But please, pay attention to dark colours which may transfer onto it.

We ship everywhere!

Drop us an email or Whatsapp for any further information. Also, you can book your private shopping experience, physical or via video call.
We’d love to help!

New in: Meagratia

Genderless fashion #formodernhumans

New in this season: Meagratia is a Japanese brand we selected for good design lovers. And so, for self-aware people who love hunting for unique garments.

Those meaningful pieces allow you to express yourself and not just hide behind a logo. But of course, it means having a certain personality not aligned to the mainstream.

Established in 2012 by the designer Takafumi Sekine, the brand shows at the Tokyo Fashion Week from Spring/ Summer 2019.
And in 2019, the brand was the winner of the Tokyo New Designer Fashion Grand Prix. Afterwards, the designer shows his collections in Paris and New York regularly.

Meagratia is a unisex ready-to-wear brand, and its concept is a fusion of history with a sense of the present.

Fall/ Winter 22 Meagratia digital show: Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo 2022

Check out the Fall/ Winter 22-23 digital show from the Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo 2022. You will enjoy it!

About the brand, we loved the genderless aesthetic, which is modern but effortless at the same time. Unconventional, but never aggressive, well-balanced indeed. And the particular attention paid to all the details, visible or hidden. But also the idea of showing a capsule collection that stands out for a precise sense of style, offering a concentration of good design and quality. Because in the end, more is not what you need.

Cool design from Japan

Meagratia makes some very special but wearable garments.
Rather than dividing into categories, men’s or women’s clothing, there’s a sense of freedom in genderless fashion. As clothes are about who you are. They make you feel good. And it’s not a matter of labelling.

So, if you don’t recognise yourself in mainstream culture and fashion and you aren’t afraid to be different, this brand is for you.

Meagratia, unique cool design #formodernhumans

Niche fashion: what does it mean?

And can it stand on its own?

Niche fashion is a matter of having a personal identity, refusing mass products and somehow having a certain repulsion for what is extremely popular.

The question is: do you want to look like everyone else? Dress like everyone else? And think like everyone else?

If yes, maybe reading this post is a waste of your time. Indeed many people like to be the copy of others.
But if your response is no, it’s worth a few minutes of reading. Exploring the concept of niche fashion will help you understand that small universe outside mass trends.

It’s an imagery that finds very little space in our homologated culture. Social media flattened everything privileging a single line of thought.

Created by visionary designers, it finds support from a limited number of selected international retailers who still have a passion for research. And by people like you, who love searching for authentic gems.

Niche fashion
Marc Le Bihan tulle skirt

However, niche has a meaning in marketing but has a slightly different connotation in fashion. In marketing, it refers to a group you identify as your target audience.

Niche in the fashion field

In the fashion field, professionals call niche brands or collections those designs out of the mainstream. Cult pieces of clothing or accessories not for all because of their design, quality and craftsmanship. Which image is so unique that only people with a specific taste will understand them.

In essence, niche fashion is about having a different sensibility towards design and quality. It is for connoisseurs, insiders or everyone having an eye to recognise it, people who escape from mass thinking and find pleasure in the unconventional.

Now, can niche brands stand on their own?
The news that Calzedonia group just acquired Antonio Marras, taking a majority stake in the brand, opens the discussion.

Niche fashion will never be trending, never too popular. It wouldn’t be niche. And it has nothing to do with algorithms.
And so, preserving a culture of diversity is vital for niche brands to survive.