Mulesing free: what does it mean?

And why should fashion care about it?

Mulesing is a cruel practice used in merino sheep farms. Actually, it’s a word we weren’t familiar with. But we realise that addressing fashion that respects people, nature, and animals requires much attention.

While placing our Fall/Winter 22-23 orders, we looked through the Plantation 1982 line sheet to pick our favourite clothes. And so, we had the chance to read about this technique.

“The merino wool used for this pullover is mulesing-free, to help improve animal welfare.” – so the line sheet said.
One of the reasons why we particularly appreciate Japanese brands like Plantation is that they provide detailed information not only about the design but the material, too. Indeed, they explain why the designing team selected a specific fabric highlighting all the characteristics.

After reading about this particular merino wool, we researched a bit and discovered a horrendous way of getting this material from sheep.

mulesing free merino wool

Mulesing: what is it?

Especially in Australia and Asia, sheep are bred to have wrinkly skin to get more wool per animal. But the wrinkles retain urine and moisture, attracting more parasites that can eat the sheep alive. To prevent this kind of parasitic infection, ranchers perform “mulesing.” They force the sheep onto their backs, block their legs and rip off the skin from the backsides without any painkiller.

This mutilating practice is brutal torture! So we must stop it and find other ways to get the wool.

What is the alternative?

The good news is that the solution already exists: mulesing-free wool. It is a careful shearing practice which respects animal welfare. Therefore the sheep do not undergo any mutilation or antiparasitic treatment harmful to the animal, operators and final customers who get in contact with the wool.

No mulesing: responsible fashion

Fashion designers are responsible for finding respectful ways of making their garments. They must hold themselves accountable for how they conceive and produce their clothing. And find alternative ethical approaches for the fashion industry.

Perhaps we cannot grant sustainability – no one really can! Even those who wave the eco/green buzzwords. But we do our best to select specific quality materials and meaningful garments. And so, fashion in respect of people, the planet and animals.

The Merino Wool Sweater

Fashion in respect of the nature

Today we introduce The Merino Wool Sweater by Plantation 1982.

This garment combines a minimal design with top-quality wool obtained from a more careful procedure called mulesing-free. It is a new technique that respects animal welfare. In fact, mulesing is a horrendous shearing practice that we will treat more in detail soon.

Discover the Fall/Winter Merino sweater

About the design
It is a round neck long-sleeved knit pullover which makes the most of the comfort of the material. Asymmetric hemline with two side slits. Loose body, so you can wear it alone or layered. The design is minimal but stylish. Also, it is a wholegarment: a seam-free knitwear technique which provides a three-dimensional seam construction. Indeed without stitchings, the knitwear flows more naturally and offers superior comfort and fit.

Merino Wool Sweater
The Merino Wool Sweater – Plantation 1982

About the material
100% Merino wool. The Plantation designing team has selected mulesing-free wool from France, a technique gentle on sheep. It is a merino wool that is pasture-raised in the great outdoors of France and has a very low production volume. It has better bulkiness and moisture retention than conventional merino wool and is light and warm. Modified ribbed knitting with holes makes it even lighter. Inserting other rib patterns into the knitted fabric provides a grainy final result.

About the colour
Forest green: an easy-to-match evocative winter hue. We opted for dark green as a love statement for nature.

Styling tips
The Merino Wool Sweater is a minimal but stylish winter pullover. A timeless piece of excellent quality. Since it has a loose body, you can wear it alone or layered over a shirt or turtleneck inner-wear. If you are chilly, the layering style is the best solution.

We ship everywhere!

We are based in Milano, but we ship our niche fashion selection #formodernhumans everywhere.

Drop us an email or WhatsApp for any further information. Also, you can book your private shopping experience – physical or via video call. We’d love to help!

News from the fashion industry

What’s going on in fashion?

Reading the latest news from the fashion industry sounds like an earthquake is happening. And what a week!

A brief fashion news recap

Alessandro Michele is exiting Gucci. Honestly, we aren’t sad about it. The Maison and its new designer, whoever will be, will face a tough challenge to clean up the circus he made. And bring back the heritage and historical relevance of the brand.

Balenciaga: another brand that has intentionally killed its heritage to undertake a nonsensical path. Moreover, the brand released one of the most disturbing advertising campaigns to launch their plush bags. Children holding bondage teddy bear bags somehow connected to paedophilia is a disgusting message. Not only sexualising kids is horrendous. But it is a clear sign of a lack of ideas. By the way, we could live without plush bags these days!

Raf Simons is shutting his namesake brand, maybe to focus on Prada. Even though he is a great designer, there is something we miss. Since he started his co-designing collaboration with Prada, the Balenciagitis phenomenon has affected his vision. Indeed, exaggerated jackets reminded Balenciaga so much that they seemed borrowed from their fashion show! Consequently, Prada stopped being copied and started copying instead.

Where is fashion heading?

So, where is fashion heading? A reflection on this topic is necessary. Can the fashion industry evolve from its current state of confusion?

The pandemic was a game changer, but big groups ignored it. Indeed, they thought they could keep up with their pattern: overproduction and making a lot of money. But it seems that provocations and logoed items aren’t enough to survive.

This is fashion in the hands of finance: a blob of mass products. Items covered with logos, taken to the extreme and pretty ignorant. Also, designers lost their crucial role, and marketing experts took their place.

However, we cannot ignore the meaning of the latest news from the fashion industry: reality has dramatically changed, and a new path is needed. Therefore, if brands don’t bring about new ideas, marketing experts will sell their logoed items on another planet!

Black Friday? Buy nothing!

Why say no to Black Friday

Here we go again: Black Friday is back, and we urge you to buy nothing! Yes, we are still at this point. That is where the matter rests: filling up the world with rubbish products.
Even though our economic system failed, and the effects are visible, most people ignore it. And they do not realise we cannot suffer the consequence of mindless shopping behaviours anymore.

Black Friday: the chain system

Manufacturers increase the production of poor-quality goods. Retailers, in turn, order more of them in order to satisfy their customers’ compulsive desire for novelties.
Indeed, that is capitalism: overproduction, which leads to unnecessary overconsumption. And all this happens by exploiting workers and the planet. In other words, those who pay the true cost of these heavy discounts with no fair wages, tons of waste, gas emissions and pollution.

buy nothing

Why should we care?

The point is: we failed the 1.5-degree target for carbon emission. One of the biggest reasons is that we consume too much. How is it not clear yet? So we have only one possibility: to reduce our consumption drastically. And look, that is what sustainable consumption means! It’s not just about purchasing sustainable products but reducing the goods we buy, consume and throw away.

What can we do? Buy nothing!

Eventually, excessive consumerism is destroying the world. And massive sales aren’t consistent with a thoughtful lifestyle. So we need to get rid of this toxic culture. You know what? No change will ever come from corporations or governments. The system won’t change. But we can change and educate ourselves. Because with our ideas and wallet, we promote the world we want. Also, lower turnovers would be the only language corporations would listen to.

Modern humans are conscious consumers. “Less stuff, more meaning” is our guiding principle. Use this day to spend time with your family or your beloved ones. Read books, more books! Listen to music! But do not contribute to a system that leads to destruction.

What can you do? Buy nothing!

The Warm Pima Pants

Top quality material for an essential and timeless style

Today we introduce The Warm Pima Pants by Plantation 1982.

Timeless fashion is about meaningful garments with no expiry date, as with these trousers. They may seem simple, but every detail is skillfully designed to offer an excellent fit and great quality. Good design made to last, comfortable and easy-care.

Warm Pima: a wardrobe staple

About the design
With tucks along the back, these narrow-leg trousers are loose around the waist and tapered toward the hem. Also, the back part of the waistline is made of rubber, so you can use them with a belt and wear them comfortably while giving it a neat impression. 
Two side pockets, one back. Front zip and button closure. 

The Warm Pima Pants by Plantation
The Warm Pima Pants
Plantation 1982

About the material
100% Supima cotton: woven with luxurious yarn which gets combed and spun compactly. Indeed, this high-power stretch material is a standard in Plantation collections. By spending time and effort on the finishing process, the designing team has created a unique fabric: soft with an elegant sheen like a silk blend. Also, by inserting thicker threads than those for spring and summer in the weft and brushing the back side, it is finished in autumn and winter specifications with a warm touch.

About the colour
Mustard: a warm and intense shade of yellow. 
Also, this product is dyed to give it a unique texture. 

Laundry
Hand washable at home. Easy care product.
Please, wash it separately – cool ironing.

Styling tips
The Warm Pima Pants are a staple in your capsule wardrobe. You can wear them with a clean impression, so they work under a tunic or a dress. Try them with a purple or dark red top.

We ship everywhere!

We are based in Milano, but we ship our niche fashion selection #formodernhumans everywhere.
Drop us an email or WhatsApp for any further information. Also, you can book your private shopping experience – physical or via video call. 

We’d love to help!

Timeless fashion beyond the buzzword

Do you know what timeless fashion really means?

The concept of timeless fashion, beyond the buzzword, is misleading. It’s one of the many empty claims you hear everywhere. Unfortunately, when you put together fashion and marketing, the risk of pointless shit is pretty high.

In brand profiles and social media, you read about clothes sold as timeless, but the misinterpretation is clear. For instance, brands or retailers describe the features of their magnificent timeless garments to introduce discounts! So, is that the point of timelessness? We don’t think so! On the other hand, people cannot understand that, even if from the previous season, meaningful pieces aren’t outdated. There’s value in good design and quality.

At first, timelessness in the fashion field may seem like a contradiction because fashion is about periodic changes. But these changes have become so frequent that the industry is out of hand. So, it makes sense to go back to past times when a made-to-last vision prevailed. Timeless guides us towards an evolved mindset facilitating a sustainable lifestyle.

The impact of fashion and textile overproduction on climate change is tangible. Unless you still choose to ignore it. Lately, the industry has moved from fast to ultra-fast fashion, generating mountains of waste. And so, timeless is our way out. It represents the possibility towards a conscious lifestyle. In fact, by refocusing our shopping habits, we contribute to limiting the disasters we have made so far.

But what does timeless mean?

Items lasting forever! Something that is timeless does not change as the years go past.

Therefore, the timeless design doesn’t change completely season by season. Items are classics. And classics are made to last: higher quality and good design. And so, heavy discounts on these products aren’t consistent.

Finally, refocusing on a caring and evolved attitude should also help you to change your vision of “new.”
Timeless design is the opposite of disposable fashion. And has nothing to do with a compulsive desire for novelties, destructive behaviour that doesn’t understand the value of garments and work. But it is just a frenzy reaction to a consumerist society.

So, forget empty marketing claims. We don’t search for convenience, but we search for worth. Beyond the buzzword, this is what timeless fashion means: meaningful garments with no expiry date!

The Plaid Blouson

Fall/ Winter collection

Today we introduce The Plaid Blouson by Plantation 1982.

It is a unique, cosy and warm winter coat you will love!
We carefully select unconventional clothing in limited quantities for people passionate about good design and style. Those who make conscious choices in respect of people and the planet, too.
Advice: choose well and take a few pieces, just the good ones. By the way, a wardrobe of meaningful garments – made to last – is the best sustainable approach.

Discover The Plaid Blouson

About the design
It’s a mid-length wool-blend blouson with a maxi check pattern and a fringe detail along the hemline. Also, the boldly patterned coat has a unique front design that looks like a stole. Toggle closure shawl collar, dropped shoulder, two front pockets. Loose fit silhouette. Unlined body with inner tone-on-tone piping and lined sleeves.

The Plaid Blouson
The Plaid Blouson
Plantation 1982

About the material
It’s an Italian knit material made of yarn called air wool: woven by rolling it up into a rope shape. Also knitted in a bold check pattern that is soft and light while having a fluffy volume.
Outer material: 69% wool, 31% polyester.
Lining: 100% Cupra.

About the colour
Off-white base with camel and blue maxi check pattern. The image is comfortable but very stylish.

Laundry
Dry clean.

Styling tips
The Plaid Blouson is a garment that stands out. Also, the cocoon shape is easy to balance with different bottoms. Even though the base colour is light, you will match it easily with other hues. From white to black bottoms, this coat will perfectly complete your wardrobe.

We ship everywhere!

We are based in Milano, but we ship our niche fashion selection #formodernhumans everywhere.

Drop us an email or WhatsApp for any further information. Also, you can book your private shopping experience – physical or via video call.
We’d love to help!

Fashion brands and Russian oil

How fashion is funding the Russian conflict

Have you ever thought there’s a link between fashion brands and Russian oil? Yes, your mass-produced clothing might be indirectly fueling the war in Ukraine.

Changing markets Foundation released the report: “Dressed to Kill: Fashion brands’ hidden links to Russian oil in a time of war.”
This investigation uncovered hidden supply chains connecting fashion brands and Russian oil. So, purchasing some specific polyester clothing might be a way to fuel the war in Ukraine.

Fashion & Russian oil – the connection

Major Indian and Chinese polyester producers source oil from Russia to make synthetic fibre. Then, they sell yarn and fabrics to garment manufacturers, who, in turn, produce clothes for well-known fashion brands.

Even though many countries have imposed sanctions on Russia, they continue selling clothes made with Russian oil. So, in the end, these same countries are financially supporting Russia’s economy during the invasion of Ukraine. Also, the research highlights links with Saudi Arabia and fracked gas from the US.

We invite you to watch this video:

Fossil fashion thrives on overproduction and an infinite growth system, a clear expression of capitalism. But, as we can see with our eyes, exponential growth is not sustainable for our planet. Indeed, it pushes people toward overconsumption of cheap garments, fostering that buy-use-toss behaviour typical of our society. A toxic consuming habit which, in turn, led to a spiralling waste crisis.
The result is a massive exploitation of people and the planet, with an immense climate cost.

Are your clothes made with Russian oil?

Cheap fashion brands are attractive, but someone else pays the cost: exploited people and our burning planet. And you may also end up supporting Russia’s war.

So, be mindful and choose quality items made to last. One quality garment is better than two bags full of fast-fashion garbage!

COP 27: the climate show is on!

COP 27 is becoming more of an international show leaving people in doubt about its effectiveness. We hear world leaders urging us to worry about the climate emergency for about ten days. After that, no action follows, and things are only getting worse.
So, do we really need it?

With more than 35 thousand people involved, the cost and impact are crazy! In the first two days, 40 private jets landed in the Egyptian desert. For a conference on climate change? It sounds like a joke!
However, most of the leaders participating in this summit are the same ones who contributed to creating the problems we face nowadays. And their strong connection with oil and corporations is at the heart of the matter.

So, a simple question arises, which doesn’t require rocket science but the common sense of humble people like us. Can those who caused a disaster help find solutions? It seems unlikely to happen.

Corporations are the face of capitalism. If asked to change, they will shift to green capitalism. But this will not reduce their impact on the planet because they will continue to overproduce goods. So, people and planet exploitation will continue. Just with a different colour!

Indeed, believing that corporations will be active in finding solutions to climate change is quite naive. Ethics and business aren’t good friends. Until the very last drop of oil is available, they will persist in exploitation and make money out of it. All the rest, COP 27 included, is just a facade. A kind of big greenwashing machine which has the effect of manipulating people. Or unnerving those who don’t buy it.

Capitalistic growth led to the destruction of the world. Making capitalism green will change its colour. But a new facade will not eradicate the element that caused the disaster: never-ending growth. Which is cancer to humanity and nature.

Our planet cannot bear it anymore. We need to question endless economic growth. If growth is life, overgrowth is death.

And so, we don’t need world leaders discussing the climate disaster for ten days, hand in hand with corporations. COP 27 is pointless. We need people who care 365 days a year!

Generation Z & sustainability

The topic of sustainability has a warped meaning and understanding amongst most consumers today, Generation Z included.

Gen Z is said to be the upcoming generation for a positive environmental shift in our society. This generation has been at the forefront of the sustainability movement. Pushing companies and brands to conduct sustainable practices in an effort to save the planet we are destroying.

What sustainability means to Generation Z

But does this young generation truly know what sustainability means?
Unfortunately, this “green movement” has become misunderstood as greenwashing. With the lack of research and education on environmentalism, brands have been able to blatantly lie to their consumers. By engaging in greenwashing tactics, they conveyed an image of sustainability and ethicality that simply does not exist to them.

It is now the responsibility of the younger generations to wake up, and do their research. And hold these brands accountable for their greenwashing schemes and harmful environmental practices.

The research on Gen Z

I spent some time interviewing college students currently studying abroad in Milano to understand their point of view. What sustainability means to them. And how they practice it in their daily lives. From these conversations I concluded a distorted idea of greenwashing and an unhealthy practice of overconsumption.
All this is due to a lack of transparency between brands and consumers. When discussing the students knowledge of sustainability or familiarity with the term ‘greenwashing’, I received a variety of answers. Many had never heard of greenwashing or how it affected the choices they make daily.

The truth on Gen Z & sustainability

Students told me that sustainability meant being cautious and putting the environment first. Also, an item or lifestyle alleged to be sustainable, can be trusted with no further questioning. Such contradictory answers surprised me. How can one be cautious yet trust that the word ‘sustainable’ is 100% true?

Students attest to practising sustainability by donating clothes, vintage or thrift shopping, and creating capsule wardrobes. But, when asked what brands they typically shop from, the most common response I received was some of the brands guilty of the greatest greenwashing techniques. The brands these students shop from attest to caring for the earth and market themselves as “conscious” or “committed” to sustainability. Yet still participate in mass overproduction.

Although students brought up capsule wardrobes quite often, overconsumption still seems to have a huge hold on this generation due to the hyper-fast fashion movement. Students claimed to go shopping regularly, at least once a month.

An advice I can give to this generation who yearns for a more sustainable lifestyle is to question everything you see. Don’t support brands that shout about sustainability to sharpen their image for the purpose of gaining social acceptance. But a brand that does good because they care. The word ‘sustainable’ is not regulated and, ultimately, does not need to hold any truth. So, when you see that buzzword word on a tag, don’t forget to fact-check that claim.

Generation Z seems to have an interest, and desire for a more sustainable earth. But, unfortunately, lacks the inclination to question the brands they shop from. Hiding behind the term “ignorance is bliss” is not a viable excuse for a dying planet screaming for change.

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A piece written by Leyla Jackson – apparel merchandising student from Washington State University. Currently studying at Università Cattolica Del Sacro Cuore in Milan and interning for suite123. Passionate about working towards a more sustainable future for not only the fashion industry, but our planet.