Paris Fashion Week FW25/26: a reaffirmation of identity

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Is identity boring or a thoughtful choice?


At Paris Fashion Week FW25/26, collections seemed to centre on a reaffirmation of brand identity. With the era of ‘Balenciagitis’—where many creative directors seemed infected by a uniform aesthetic—behind us, designers have returned to their distinct visions. But for heritage maisons, does this emphasis on identity feel stagnant, or is it a conscious, thoughtful approach?

Paris Fashion Week FW25/26: A stronger focus on identity 


One of the most anticipated debuts this season was Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford. Ackermann is a designer who understands his craft. In January 2023, he delivered a remarkable interpretation of Jean Paul Gaultier, demonstrating his ability to modernise a collection while staying true to the essence of a maison.

In fact, his debut at Tom Ford was no exception. The formula? Identity with audacity. A bold, commanding collection with a distinct brand DNA, executed with deep respect for the house’s legacy. The result? A resounding success—one that seems to have won over everyone, Tom Ford included. (Watch the show here).

On a similar note, Julian Klausner handled Dries Van Noten transition with a deep respect for its codes, proving that identity can be both preserved and evolved. (Watch the show here).

Chloé embraced modern romantic hippy-chic, with its iconic silk blouses and chiffon dresses catering to women of all ages. Chemena Kamali revitalised the brand after Gabriela Hearst, though we can only hope the furs were faux. (Watch the show here).

The standout moment


Our favourite? Sarah Burton’s debut at Givenchy—an absolutely breathtaking collection that felt like a breath of fresh air. A masterclass in blending the maison’s heritage, paying due respect to the founder while adding refined modernity, it exuded pure femininity through exquisite tailoring. Marvellous! (Watch the show here).

Where the PFW FW25/26 fell short


While Alexander McQueen was an improvement over the previous Spring/Summer show, it lacked strong pathos. Again, one wonders: should all brands strive for mass appeal? That was never the essence of McQueen.

Ann Demeulemeester? A disappointment.

And then, Valentino—or Valentucci? Or GVucci? A chaotic blend that echoed the marché aux puces aesthetic so characteristic of Alessandro Michele. Staging Valentino in a public toilet—an unsubtle metaphor for the house’s current trajectory? Once again, Michele seems to show little reverence for the houses he designs for—except for his own ego. Why entrust a storied maison to a costume designer? Given how things ended at Gucci, does this approach make any sense?

Final thoughts on Paris Fashion Week FW25/26: identity matters


In conclusion, Paris Fashion Week FW25/26 reaffirmed one key theme: identity matters. But what is the relationship between costume and identity? And how do you balance timelessness with continuous innovation?

We recently came across a post by 1Granary lamenting the lack of innovation in luxury brands. Yet, within the industry, many—including us—value the concept of timelessness over relentless reinvention. When the original founder or creative visionary is no longer at the helm, what remains? The brand’s DNA.

Reinforcing identity isn’t stagnation—it’s preservation of meaning. A brand’s DNA is its essence, the very thing thatmakes it unique. In an era obsessed with novelty, timelessness and slowness are values to protect—not obstacles to overcome.

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Indiscriminate discounts: a policy spinning out of control

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Camera Showroom Milano takes a stand to regulate discounts


We’ve often discussed the issue of indiscriminate discounts, a practice that has spiralled out of control. What was once a strategic tool for end-of-season sales has become a year-round phenomenon, undermining both economic and environmental sustainability.

Sales, in their current form, are a short-sighted strategy that fuels compulsive consumer behaviour and perpetuates a toxic production cycle. The fashion industry is a significant contributor to the triple planetary crisis: climate change, biodiversity loss, and pollution. Addressing unsustainable consumption and production patterns is a key focus of the UN’s recent guidelines. Against this backdrop, the initiative by Camera Showroom Milano (CSM) is a welcome step forward. 
Well, finally, we would say…

At first glance, year-round discounts might appear to benefit consumers. However, the reality is far more complex. Not only do they tarnish the image of Made in Italy, as CSM highlights, but they also harm end customers by devaluing products and fostering a culture of price-driven consumption over quality and craftsmanship.

Camera Showroom Milano: tackling indiscriminate discounts


In a recent press release, CSM highlighted how year-round discounts, now a common practice among retailers, are damaging the Made in Italy supply chain. Under current legislation, once retailers purchase goods, they are free to resell them at any price, including steep discounts, throughout the year.

This practice undermines the value of products and the creative effort behind them, while also destabilising the retail sector. It erodes trust between brands and consumers, as products are increasingly seen as disposable rather than desirable.

The issue is particularly acute for Made in Italy products distributed across the European market, where retailers often resell items without adhering to price regulations designed to protect brand integrity. As a result, the window for selling products at full price has shrunk to just two or three months, causing significant harm to individual retailers, the broader sector, and the entire supply chain.

CSM notes that the constant availability of discounts has transformed the purchase of fashion and Made in Italy products from a prestigious, intentional act into a race for the lowest price. This shift not only devalues the products but also undermines the industry’s long-term viability.

Proposed solutions: a call for collective action to end indiscriminate discounts


To address this issue, CSM is advocating for institutional support and the revival of specific agreements between manufacturers and retailers. These agreements would enforce brand-suggested retail prices until the official sales periods in July and January each year.

CSM emphasises the need for clear, shared rules to ensure discount policies align with market dynamics and respect the efforts of all stakeholders, from individual operators to the entire supply chain. Collective action, they argue, is essential to regulate the retail market effectively. This includes fostering collaboration between small and medium-sized manufacturers and sellers, with a focus on commercial loyalty. The goal is to maintain brand-recommended retail prices until the official sales periods begin, creating a fairer and more balanced market environment.

A deeper issue: the role of brands and showrooms


While CSM’s proposal is a step in the right direction, it raises a critical question: Are brands and showrooms prepared to stop demanding increasingly high budgets from retailers?

The current system operates in a vicious cycle (we explored the topic here). Brands set minimum budget requirements for retailers, which often increase season after season. To meet these demands, retailers purchase more than they can sell, leading to overstock. This overstock, in turn, drives up retail prices during the season to offset losses incurred during end-of-season sales.

To clear excess inventory, retailers resort to frequent promotions, markdowns, and discounts, further encouraging overconsumption. This cycle is self-perpetuating, linking production and consumption in a way that harms both the industry and the environment.

Among other things, a special mention should go to online retailers who disregard the rules and do as they please—Italians first and foremost.

Final thoughts on CSM and indiscriminate discounts


In conclusion, year-round sales and promotions are not just a symptom of a broken system; they are a driving force behind it. They encourage compulsive buying and sustain a production model that is both environmentally and economically unsustainable. To promote healthier consumption patterns, we must break this cycle.

While we applaud CSM’s efforts to curb indiscriminate discounts, real change will require a broader shift in the industry. Brands and showrooms must reconsider their demands on retailers, and all stakeholders must work together to create a system that values quality over quantity and sustainability over short-term gains.

Ultimately, the question remains: Is the fashion industry ready to take this bold step towards a more sustainable future?

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A focus on brand identity at MFW FW25/26

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Milano Fashion Week: codes above all else


Most luxury brands at Milano Fashion Week Fall-Winter25/26 placed a strong focus on brand identity—their unique DNA. In other words, they highlighted what defines them and sets them apart.

So, from Prada to Moschino, MM6, Marras, and Dolce & Gabbana, the emphasis on preserving a distinct identity emerged as the path to follow.

A few notes on MFW FW25/26: focus on brand identity


Antonio Marras: The designer has always remained true to his style. This season, he crafted a poetic narrative intertwined with the music of the past, drawing inspiration from the 1892 opera La Bella di Alghero. The result was a runway with a strong territorial identity. (Watch the show here).

MM6: The brand played with scale and proportions, shifting from small to oversized. This approach was particularly evident in their reinterpretation of iconic pieces like trench coats, jackets, dresses, and T-shirts. The collection felt more authentic to MM6’s essence—something we recognised, having loved and selected this concept for our boutique in the past. (Watch the show here).

Moschino: Creative director Adrian Appiolaza delved deep into the brand’s archives and stylistic codes, reviving the messages cherished by Franco Moschino. Foremost among them is a call to action on the climate crisis, alongside bold tailoring, deconstructed silhouettes, and surreal details. (Watch the show here).

Dolce & Gabbana: Models stepped out of the Metropol theatre and onto the streets, turning the show into a dynamic celebration. The “cool girls” aesthetic reinterpreted the brand’s classics with a sexy cargo twist, blending attitude with signature sensuality. (watch the show here).

Prada: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons explored the question, “What is femininity today?” and challenged conventional perceptions of beauty and gender identity. An approach we found particularly compelling, tracing an idea of style rich in contrasts. In the social media era, where people retreat into the illusion of perfection, Prada instead works to uglify the homogenising effect of a flattening culture—one that most people succumb to, numbed to the point of passivity, lacking even the impulse to escape or seek alternatives. (Watch the show here).

What can we learn from the FW25/26 Prada fashion show?

  • Contemporary femininity: A blend of vintage reimagined through a modern lens. Take a 1960s shift dress, make it oversized, and you get a fresh take on women’s style.
  • Freedom of movement: The collection is rich in oversized silhouettes, flowing gently over the body and allowing for natural movement.
  • Sizes are relative: Size no longer holds the same importance; it’s relative. In fact, what truly matters is how a dress flows on your body and how you choose to wear it—with a belt, a mannish shirt, or over a pair of jeans.

Final thoughts on MFW FW25/26


In conclusion, at Milano Fashion Week Fall-Winter 25/26, most luxury brands placed a strong emphasis on brand identity, with many creative directors diving into archives to honour their brand’s core DNA.

Ultimately, Prada’s exploration of contemporary femininity offered a vision of modern style. In a game of contrasts—between masculine and feminine—it all comes down to how you choose to wear your clothes. That, after all, is the essence of style: an invitation to freedom, clothes to explore rather than limit.

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FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week kicks off: Gucci’s new measure and Capasa’s optimism

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Between a vision for the future of fashion and the illusion of luxury?


The FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week opened with Gucci presenting its post-De Sarno collection, alongside a bold statement from Carlo Capasa, President of CNMI, on the state of luxury. What emerged was a striking contrast between the industry’s optimistic rhetoric and the stark realities of the market.

FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week: Gucci, a cautious reflection rooted in heritage


Set to an immersive soundtrack by Justin Hurwitz, performed live by an orchestra, and staged against a Castleton Green backdrop. So Gucci’s Fall Winter 25/26 collection marked a transitional moment for the brand. With no creative director at the helm, the collection avoided the excessive creative experimentation seen during Alessandro Michele’s tenure. In fact, he hijacked the brand steering it away from its core identity. Instead, this season offered a measured, archive-driven aesthetic, blending 60s to 90s influences into an elegant, modern image. The result was a clear luxury statement, showcasing the excellent work of a group of twenty young designers who took their bow at the end of the show. Bravo to the team!

Undoubtedly, this restrained approach feels like a deliberate response to the shifting luxury landscape. However, for luxury brands with such a rich history like Gucci, the path forward may well lie in balancing tradition with contemporary relevance—heritage, elegance, and archival inspiration with a modern twist.

Capasa’s statement: a questionable narrative


In contrast to Gucci’s cautious optimism, Carlo Capasa’s remarks struck a more contentious note. The CNMI president dismissed concerns about a luxury slowdown, framing it as a mere “readjustment.”

“Luxury is not suffering; it is readjusting.”

Capasa pointed to brands performing well globally as evidence of the industry’s resilience. Also, he expressed confidence in fashion’s ability to navigate complex moments. While his optimism is understandable—given his role as a promoter of the sector—it feels at odds with the broader market reality. Data suggests that luxury is indeed slowing down, with many brands facing significant uncertainty. The fact that a few brands are performing well—perhaps because they have the backing of substantial budgets—simply makes them exceptions. It does not negate the struggles faced by the majority.

The bigger picture: is luxury adapting or struggling?


As the FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week unfolds, the disconnect between the industry’s official narratives and market realities becomes increasingly apparent. Gucci’s calculated collection reflects a brand responding to economic shifts with caution. But is this “readjustment” a sign of resilience? Or a moment of reckoning for an industry in need of strategic reinvention?

FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week: opening highlights


Gucci’s FW25/26 show signals a potential return to its roots, prioritising heritage over experimentation. Perhaps this marks the end of the brand’s exploration of pointless pathways and a renewed focus on what it does best.

A final thought: Is the luxury industry truly in control of its destiny? Or is it merely reacting to the inevitable change? As the fashion world gathers in Milan, these questions linger, challenging the narratives of optimism and resilience that dominate the headlines.

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A leaner schedule at London Fashion Week

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Why smaller brands are leading the change


The luxury slowdown has led to a leaner schedule for the FW25/26 London Fashion Week, which ran from Thursday 20th to Monday 24th February. This year, numerous brands opted to drop out or reimagine their presentations entirely.

For decades, the traditional fashion calendar—anchored by the biannual September and March runway shows—has dictated the industry’s rhythm. But times are changing. While luxury giants cling to their established schedules, buoyed by corporate budgets, smaller brands are quietly rewriting the rules.

FW25/26 London Fashion Week: A leaner schedule


“Some designers are cutting costs by choosing to sit out alternate fashion weeks, showing just once a year. The fashion system of having a new look each September and March, which once tied the industry to biannual shows, has fallen away in favour of a more fluid era of vibes and microtrends.”  Jess Cartner-Morley on The Guardian

As The Guardian reports, independent designers are increasingly opting for a single annual show, prioritising creativity over relentless production. Yet, this shift isn’t merely a response to financial pressures. It’s a deliberate recalibration. A growing number of brands recognise that the ceaseless demand for newness, once the lifeblood of fashion, now feels out of step with the times. Instead, they are embracing a more considered, sustainable approach—one that champions craftsmanship, longevity, and deeper connections with their audience.

“We wanted to step back from the traditional format and create a space for meaningful conversations and shared experiences,” says Patrick McDowell, a London-based independent sustainable luxury fashion brand, who hosted a dinner at Aqua Nueva’s rooftop. “Fashion is as much about the people who wear it as it is about the garments themselves, and we’re excited to celebrate this moment with our extended family of collaborators, supporters, and friends.”

This move is a direct response to an industry that has, for years, been driven by breakneck speed. The rise of endless trends, turbocharged by social media, has blurred the lines between seasonal collections. Coupled with economic instability and the luxury slowdown, the fashion industry finds itself at a crossroads.

Redefining the fashion industry through a cultural shift


In this new landscape, where trends come and go at lightning speed and budgets are tighter than ever, smaller brands are finding strength in resisting the pressure to produce twice a year. By presenting just once, they offer something more meaningful—designs that transcend fleeting trends and aspire to timelessness.

In contrast, luxury conglomerates remain tethered to their established schedules. Their dominance thrives on spectacle and overproduction, elements deeply ingrained in the biannual format. Yet, the quiet revolution led by independent labels signals a broader cultural shift. The future of fashion isn’t about adhering to old patterns—it’s about redefining them.

Final thoughts: towards a new rhythm for fashion


In conclsuion, a leaner schedule at London Fashion Week may stem from financial constraints, but it has also sparked a surge of creativity. Far from being a sign of weakness, this shift represents a more meaningful way to connect. It’s not just about the runway itself, but about how the conversation can evolve, what it has the power to inspire, and what ideas it propels forward.

As the industry stands at this crossroads, it’s worth asking: Will the future of fashion prioritise longevity over excess? If smaller brands are any indication, the answer is already taking shape—through deliberate creativity, intentional design, and a commitment to redefining what fashion can be. Less, but better.

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