sustainability

The growth obsession

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Can fashion survive without growth?

While reading the international news, it seems the growth obsession is here to stay despite climate change. Industries don’t see any problem or urgency. So, why should they make a change? They don’t really care because money comes first.

Sustainability and growth obsession

On December 22, Vanessa Friedman, The New York Times fashion director and chief fashion critic, moderated a task force of fashion industry leaders.

Sustainability is the goal of the fashion industry. But, according to the industry leaders, sustainability wouldn’t happen without changes to the business model and more efforts to educate consumers.

Ms Friedman said:

“At this point, it’s not about the chemicals. It’s about the sheer amount of stuff that we produce, that we buy and that we waste.”

Vanessa Friedman

But then Laurent Claquin, Americas president of the luxury group Kering, declared: “Growth is not a bad word.”
Well, this leaves us a little bit perplexed…

Although the conclusion was that the fashion industry needs to stop focusing on exponential growth, some contradictory positions emerged.

So, where is the fashion system heading? And can fashion survive without growth?

China, Covid and growth

In an interview with “Il sole 24 ore”, Alberto Forchielli, entrepreneur and expert in international business with a focus on Asia, said:

“In China, the Covid situation is truly explosive. Some factories have 80-90% sick employees. Experts estimate 250 million cases and two million deaths within the year.
Now everything is blocked and obviously, it will have consequences for the economy. Factories can’t keep up with orders, and containers don’t leave. But this situation will not last long.
Forecasts say that growth will return in the third quarter. And when China restarts, it won’t be easy for the West: gas and oil will rise again next winter because Chinese energy demand will explode.”

Growth obsessed industries vs climate change

On the one hand, the actual situation in China is a catastrophe facing many deaths. Yet, on the other, the imperative is growth. Growth, growth and more growth!

The big picture is this: extreme heat, rainforest burning, glaciers melting, flooding, ocean life dying, and insect numbers plummeting. And we could go on with the list!
Our lifestyle is destroying the planet and the ecosystems. And this destruction will soon revert to us.

Is growth still the only plan we have?

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When will you start sales? Never!

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Sales and sustainability don’t play well together. Here’s why!

When people ask: when will you start sales? – We reply: never. No sales here! Buy less but better over the season!
And it’s easy to understand the point. Other than an illusory short-term fix, sales don’t solve any problem. Intentionally neglecting the big picture, they contribute to exacerbating the exploitative system.

The need to change seems a shared belief. And it’s interesting to hear people in the fashion industry and consumers, too, talking about the urgency of it.

After all, it’s nice to keep playing the same game expecting something to change! Isn’t it?

The un-sustainability of sales

We all participate in the exploitation game traced by an economic system that led the world to destruction. But we just prefer to ignore it.

Flooded by overproduction, the market is exploding. And the majority of these garments are made by people who cannot afford to cover their basic needs. Fashion production is so excessive that it has a tremendous impact on the planet in terms of carbon emissions, waste and labour abuse. Retailers, for their part, inflate prices to get ready for the question: “When will you start sales?”
This is not sustainable. So it’s time to make different choices, even if unpopular.

The sustainable solution

If everyone had a proper wage, we wouldn’t feel the need to lower prices more and more. A practice that wiped out quality standards. Clothing and accessories would have a more reasonable price range throughout the year. “Less but better” would be the solution. Sustainable fashion, indeed!

But the news says retailers are optimistic. Optimistic? For what? Is a bargain worth a burning planet?

As a small retailer operating for over 17 years, we don’t want to be part of this global exploitation. Indeed we chose to cut the quantity we used to buy. Our fashion selection is essential, in a limited number of pieces, plus a made-to-order service. That is to grant unicity and be as much as possible sustainable.

There’s a brilliant quote we found on the web:

“We ignore truths for temporary happiness.”

Unknown

Sales are a way to ignore the truth. But difficult moments need radical choices.
So why don’t you stop being part of this game?

When will you start sales? Never! Read More »

The anachronism of sales in a collapsing world

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Markdowns, sales and sustainability

In a collapsing world, the anachronism of sales, expression of a system of overproduction and excessive waste, should raise eyebrows. Indeed markdowns are a short-term win inadequate to the current situation. In the view of making fashion a sustainable industry, aggressive discounts and sales aren’t a consistent plan.

Overproduction is the cause. Producing too many clothes doesn’t make sense anymore. Furthermore, a system that needs constant discounts to push people to purchase more than they need is a rotten system. Overproduction and overconsumption: one triggers the other. But if we want to make fashion sustainable, we should break this pattern.

Sales for high-income

They still rely on overconsumption and also markdowns to satisfy their need for novelty. In fact, they have learned nothing from the latest events. Therefore, the conclusion is that they simply don’t care about the impact their actions have on the planet. So, fashion brands throw the bait, and those people buy whatever comes out to show their higher status.

Low-income consumers

For lower-income consumers, the matter is different, but the push to overconsume is the same. Indeed, affordable prices give the illusion of richness. And rather than shopping for quality vintage or “less but better” clothing, they shop for discounted items. Feeding up the throwaway culture that thrives thanks to unaware people.

Most importantly, there is an excessive supply, too much of everything, so high and low spenders don’t value the craft work anymore, the art of making quality clothes. There’s no understanding of this process. Therefore the masses think garments should be cheap and disposable.

The anachronism of sales

It’s impossible to match what needs to be done to keep the planet habitable and what the economic system (capitalism) needs to preserve itself. The choice is one or the other.

Although sales are an anachronistic expression of a system that failed, the cycle restarts happily season by season. No matter if the world is on the brink of collapse.

Fashion brands, retailers and consumers are not interested in having a positive impact and making a change. If the fashion industry doesn’t change, most consumers aren’t interested in doing so either.

So people, enjoy your winter sales! Your temporary illusion of joy is served this season again!

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The Vivienne Westwood legacy

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What can we learn from the iconic fashion designer?

Our first post of the year is a tribute to Vivienne Westwood, one of the most revolutionary figures in the fashion system. Sadly, the iconic fashion designer passed away on December 29, aged 81.

Also known as the queen of punk because she started her career in the seventies with her punk designs, Westwood was consistent with her style throughout her life.

Rather than retracing her influential career, we prefer to pinpoint what made her unique, highlight her legacy and see what we can learn from it.

What is peculiar is that her fashion wasn’t the expression of finance but reflected her free creativity and values. Most importantly, she worked for something bigger than fashion. Indeed, she used her voice not only to make clothes but as a platform to raise awareness, fight climate change and support human rights.

Vivienne Westwood and sustainable fashion

“Buy less, choose well, make it last. Quality, non quantity. Everybody’s buying far too many clothes.”

Vivienne Westwood

The above quote is the base of sustainable fashion and the essence of an evolved style. But also, it is the guiding principle for a sustainable lifestyle.

First, “buy less!” – nothing is more sustainable than this! So, reject the obsession with novelties and become a selective, conscious consumer. Reducing the number of pieces we purchase means taking only meaningful garments.
Second, “choose well”: pay attention to quality and design. So, learn to discern good quality from the rubbish, which we don’t have to support necessarily.
Third, “make it last”: love your clothes, and learn to take care of them properly. Also learn to mix and match them, as beautiful pieces are never inappropriate.

However, here you can understand the inconsistency of the fashion industry. Indeed, fashion brands talk about sustainability but put into production tons of new items every season. Not to mention fast fashion brands, who release new clothing pieces every week!

A legacy to grasp

Being a political and environmental activist, Vivienne Westwood recently said: “Capitalism is a crime. It is the root cause of war, climate change and corruption.”

But, aren’t the same top brands part of that capitalistic game?

We can learn a lot from someone who worked with such a passion and has never conformed to the standards. Or to the logo obsession we see today. The Vivienne Westwood legacy shows that fashion without a vision is nothing. Therefore, sustainable fashion without ideas and without good design is just marketing. Another business added to the many other ones already existing.

Of course, the power of unpopular ideas stands out.
Will any young designer grasp this legacy?

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2022: a year in fashion

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Looking back at 2022, it seems that this year in fashion went by without any tangible sign of change. Indeed, retracing the events and analysing how brands run their businesses, everyone went happily back to normal.

Fashion advertising

Advertising released catchy stories creating a bubble which depicted a universe disconnected from reality. Over the 80s and 90s, the context promoted superstars, but now the ostentation is pointless and not appealing.
As regards marketing, forget sustainability, it’s all about greenwashing.

2022 in fashion design

From a design viewpoint, less but better was supposed to be the guiding principle to help the industry move forward. A clean and more focused fresh restart after the pandemic. But it seems that message has not been taken seriously by fashion brands. Perhaps it was something nice to say during a tiring moment, a way to move with the flow. Indeed, we witnessed a setback during the last fashion shows.

Furthermore, now that celebrations and parties are back, sequins and cheap fabrics are everywhere, again. Just looking at the pictures on social media or advertising on tv, the poor quality of the materials is the first thing you notice!

There’s no escape! The imperative of cheap clothing, accessible products that give the illusion of richness, is still very strong.

Fashion industry in 2022

Likewise, fashion companies have set up no measures to reduce the impact on the environment. Also, considering working conditions, we are far from giving workers decent wages.

From luxury brands to fast fashion, the rules are almost the same. And the difference between one or the other segment is just a matter of spending power. By the way, fashion is in the hands of finance, big groups pursuing perpetual growth. Therefore, overproduction which in turn fosters overconsumption. And, this toxic practice is always at the heart of the fashion business.
The industry is immersed in a consumerist culture exploiting people and the planet without no understanding of the scale of destruction it carries around. And no will to change.

2022, has been another tough year in fashion.
Throughout the year, we wrote a lot about the need for a different way of operating the fashion business, but perhaps it was naive to expect it for real.

However, we’ll keep working in fashion, searching for quality, good design and uniqueness. Only what really counts, and in limited quantities.

#formodernhumans

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