sustainability

Identity and Ethics

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Peering behind the veil of the fashion industry


When it comes to identity, the spotlight often shifts away from ethics. That seems especially evident during the Milano Fashion Week.

The recent emphasis on rediscovering lost brand identities amid transitions between creative directors is appreciable. Instead of merely chasing trends and pushing boundaries to the point of absurdity, there’s a noticeable return to celebrating heritage and the unique DNA of fashion houses. However, amidst this shift, one can’t help but question the credibility of companies that have previously indulged in such superficial games.

The discrepancy between image and reality at MFW


The day before the conclusion of Milan Fashion Week, a revealing program titled “Indovina chi viene a cena” (Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner) aired on Rai3 (you can watch it here). The journalist Sabrina Giannini and her colleague shed light on the stark reality behind sustainability claims in the fashion industry. It became evident that the more brands flaunt their sustainable slogans, the less sustainable their practices proved to be. Sustainability is 90% greenwashing! This disillusionment extends beyond just material choices and production processes. In fact, it delves into the exploitation of cheap labour through outsourcing. A practice that starkly contrasts with the Italian craftsmanship ethos.

Fashion industry, identity and ethics


While these issues aren’t new to those who follow fashion’s undercurrents, the program highlighted some uncomfortable truths. Particularly striking was the response of the influencers when questioned about their awareness of designers’ materials and sustainable practices. Their dismissive reactions have underscored a glaring disconnection between the industry’s rhetoric and its actual impact. Specifically, these girls giggled or ran away, having no means to participate in a more than necessary discussion. By the way, does the fashion industry need these kinds of people? Really? Is this what the fashion industry is about?

Furthermore, Sabrina Giannini attempted to engage with designers and fashion houses on these pressing matters. What response did they get? Silence and indifference. Despite sustainability being touted as a pivotal theme in fashion, the lack of willingness from brands to engage in open dialogue is concerning. Indeed, it raises questions about the industry’s true commitment to ethical principles beyond mere lip service.

If the aim was to reveal the stark misalignment between the industry’s professed values and its actions, then the brands, with their silence, have succeeded!

Ethics, respect for work, workers’ rights, impact on the planet. All fall under the sustainability hat. But the fashion industry is not interested in that. Dear designers, refusing to open your doors, you have succeeded in unveiling your true faces.

Ultimately, Milano Fashion Week was all about identities. But clearly, no one cares about ethics!

Identity and Ethics Read More »

Florence Luxury Leather Goods in Stagnation

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 2 minutes

No orders, overproduction trap leads to thousands on furlough


It is concerning that Florence luxury leather goods compartment is experiencing stagnation.

Specifically, “Il Corriere Fiorentino” titled: “in Florence the luxury district is stuck: no orders from the brands and 4.000 workers on furlough.” The article says that it’s been many weeks that the area of Scandicci is on alert. The fact has been discussed for a few months but hasn’t officially emerged due to the social safety nets. However, the latest data from the syndicates exceeds the level of concern. Moreover, it seems that around Florence, warehouses are packed with unsold goods and can no longer contain them for space reasons.

What caused the leather goods stagnation in Florence?


Apparently, the perfect storm hit the luxury leather goods field: inflation and international crises reversed more on the middle class, the main target of accessible luxury leather goods. As a result, 250 companies that typically produce for luxury and affordable luxury brands are now facing the threat of downsizing or closure. On the contrary, it’s interesting to notice that the fast fashion area in Prato is thriving. There’s no sense of sustainability, but with low prices, people don’t care about being sustainable.
Also, the mechanization of production implemented to churn out more pieces in less time represents another possible cause.
Currently, there is an ongoing negotiation between the representatives of the workers’ unions and the most important international fashion brands that make production in the area.

A brief background


The Florentine leather tradition is renowned worldwide. Upon fully embracing the capitalistic framework, companies planned the relocation to China to maximise profit. Please forget the “made in” labels… Then, COVID-19 dismantled this system by interrupting production chains and long-distance delivery. So, we witnessed the re-shoring: brands repositioned production in Italy. Yet not to reward or develop artisanal production but rather for large quantities and numbers. In other words, the scheme tells a story of mass production and eternal growth. Now, the mechanism has jammed.

In conclusion, the stagnation of Florence leather goods compartment has resulted in a huge surplus of luxury and affordable handbags in storage. Perhaps the fashion industry can put down the mask of sustainability.
So, we wonder, how can brands still plan their fashion business on overproduction? How consciously do brands approach the new Fall/Winter 24-25 sales campaigns releasing numerous new items?

Florence Luxury Leather Goods in Stagnation Read More »

The Greenwashing Effect

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 2 minutes

& where sustainability can grow


Today, we read on Modem about Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s presence at COP28, and the greenwashing effect starts itching. By the way, the entire conference sparked a considerable sense of discomfort.

Indeed, the recent presence of the fashion world at COP28 in Dubai raised eyebrows and questions about the authenticity of the messages from mainstream fashion entities. Likewise, the event “Climate Change is not Cool: A Sustainability Message from the Fashion World” by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.

COP28 & the fashion industry


While it’s promising to witness fashion institutions addressing sustainability on global platforms, there’s a deep concern about greenwashing. True sustainability isn’t a marketing tactic; it’s a fundamental shift in values, production methods, and consumer behaviour. Which we failed to witness so far. When mainstream brands adopt sustainability as a buzzword without genuine commitment, they dilute the essence of real change.

The authentic roots of sustainability


A genuine, sustainable culture in fashion starts as a counter-culture, born from grassroots movements, independent designers and shops, and community-driven initiatives. It’s radical, disruptive, and not easily co-opted by corporate agendas. These movements champion transparency, good quality, ethical production, and circular economies. 

The power of the counterculture


History has shown that meaningful change often originates from the fringes, where unconventional ideas take root. These movements challenge the status quo, paving the way for a new fashion narrative that prioritises craftsmanship, durability, ethical practices, and a deeper understanding of the environmental impact.

Shifting perspectives and empowering choices


As consumers, we hold significant power in shaping the fashion industry. Embracing a more sustainable mindset involves supporting independent, ethical brands, vintage and secondhand fashion, and demanding transparency from big corporations. It’s about making informed choices that align with our values and contribute positively to a more sustainable future.

The fact that fashion entities participate in events like COP28 can create a false impression of sustainability – the greenwashing effect, indeed. However, real change happens through the efforts of communities, alternative movements, designers and shops that prioritise quality – less, much less but better – not overconsumption. 

Eventually, we must remember that we vote with our wallets; that’s how we shape the world we want. And that’s how we attest our commitment to sustainability.

The Greenwashing Effect Read More »

The Climate Joke

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 2 minutes

COP28: hypocrisy & climate change


If hypocrisy always accompanies the climate summit, this COP28 sounds like a joke.

Many traditional Italian jokes start like this: there is an Italian, a French and a German. Now add that they meet up in Dubai to talk about climate change. Okay, for real, COP28, the annual climate summit, is now held in Dubai. Whether you are Italian or not, you’ll laugh because it sounds like a joke!

By the way, we can expand this joke, including other countries. There are three British men who flew on three private jets to Dubai to attend a meeting led by an oil and gas CEO to talk about not using oil. And, of course, not killing the planet to satisfy their lifestyle.
In fact, according to The Independent, Sunak, Cameron and King Charles each take on private jets to travel to COP28. Three private jets to talk about cutting emissions. Surely, the right thing to do!

We could continue with the other countries in the world; the pattern doesn’t change. So, the joke gets shared.

The joke: a petro-state for climate change


Not only is COP “whatever the number,” the conference where world leaders gather to discuss climate change for about five days and then go back home with nothing done. Specifically, they postpone the change for the next 15 or 20 years, which is pure madness. It reveals a total lack of understanding of the climate emergency and a willingness to make change.
But, this year, it is even more absurd: they join in Dubai. Precisely, world leaders gather in a country whose only power relies on oil to talk about climate change. Conflict of interest? It doesn’t concern them! Private jets, helicopters, shopping in giant shopping malls – an energy-absorbing country whose energy and water consumption per capita is the highest in the world.

What are they talking about? Where are we heading?

To conclude, we share Mario Tozzi‘s words:


“There is little use in gathering at conferences like COP28, where it is more important not to step on the toes of a destructive economy than to worry about the health of the Earth. They can spare us the mockery.”


Enough with the climate joke. We cannot listen to politicians and billionaires who travel on private jets telling us how to consume. This hypocrisy is disturbing. We are fed up with it. Aren’t you?

The Climate Joke Read More »

The Paradox of Sustainability: Green Overproduction

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 2 minutes

Is sustainable overproduction a valuable strategy?


Do you know the paradox of sustainability? The paradox is this: making far more garments labelled as green products. In other words, it means perpetrating the same old overproduction pattern and marketing it as sustainable.

If that’s how you make money, why should you change? Okay, but the planet is dying, and we are facing a climate emergency the fashion industry should care about. Well, the attention towards this topic is just a facade.

In fact, according to Edited, “In the past four years, the number of clothes described as ‘sustainable’ has quadrupled.”

Green overproduction: the paradox sustainability


Yes, we know we write about this topic a lot. But when the data we ran across confirms our impressions and perplexities, it is appropriate to address it over and over.
Is sustainable overproduction a valuable strategy? Specifically, is that how we plan to save the planet? Making four times the stuff we made before is our strategy?

If this is true, we are far from reducing our impact on the planet. Clearly, that is not sustainability. And it doesn’t take a genius to understand it. So, let’s call it by its name: this is marketing! This is greenwashing!

Sustainable fashion, like eco furniture, food, tourism or whatever, has become a profitable business. And more than an effective change of direction, it represented a change of marketing. Just call it green, and you’re going to sell it. Whatever object or service you are trying to launch on the market.

The solution the fashion industry ignores


Let’s be clear: sustainable fashion, rather than making new garments and new stuff in huge green quantities, is a matter of educating people towards conscious consumption. Indeed, the solution is producing far fewer garments. At the same time, we must reuse, resell, recycle and upcycle existing clothing.

But, instead of educating people, for the fashion industry, it is easier to make money by flooding the market with sustainable products. Which, in the end, aren’t sustainable at all.

And so, this is the paradox of sustainability: making four times more garments and naming them sustainable. Unfortunately for us and for the planet, it is not a joke!

Free download our sustainability checklist here!

The Paradox of Sustainability: Green Overproduction Read More »