sustainability

A Pause in a Boiling World

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Confronting Climate Change During the Hottest Summer Ever


After a brief pause from writing, we’re confronted with a stark reality: the world isn’t just metaphorically but literally boiling. This realisation resonates deeply with us, not only with our work in the fashion industry but also with our entire lives.

Over the past few weeks, we journeyed through Italy, from Milano to the tranquil landscapes of Basilicata. Along the way, we immersed ourselves in beautiful places, savouring the food, connecting with people, and even grappling with Wi-Fi issues that forced us to momentarily step back from blogging. But what left the most profound impression was the relentless heat. The scorching temperatures, the unnaturally boiling seawater, everywhere. This was an unprecedented experience that made the reality of climate change feel more tangible than ever.

The summer of 2024 is now officially the hottest on record.

A Pause in a Boiling World
Basilicata – Marina di Pisticci


This extreme weather is having a profound impact not only on production chains and labourers but also on consumer habits and retailers. Yet, the fashion industry remains largely indifferent to this urgent crisis. Instead of responding to these challenges, the slowdown in consumer spending and the resulting decline in brand revenues are driving the industry in the opposite direction.

According to Business Of Fashion “Sustainability teams at big brands have been hit with layoffs; some companies have watered down their climate targets; and others are deprioritising sustainability efforts to focus on growth amid market volatility.”

Faced with financial pressures, the fashion system is prioritising growth and profitability, relegating sustainability to the background. Even the industry’s outward commitment to sustainability is starting to crumble.
Are we about to witness the facade completely collapse?

And so, in this moment of pause in a boiling world, the harsh reality of climate change compelled us to question everything.

How can we ignore the effects of this climate crisis on our lives and our work? Can the fashion industry really continue with business as usual? Should we reopen our boutiques as if nothing has changed? Is it possible to approach the Spring/Summer 2025 buying season without acknowledging the profound shifts happening around us?

Moreover, should we rush into the new Fall/Winter 2024-25 season? Still clinging to the outdated practice of dividing collections by season?

These are questions we can no longer avoid. The reality of our boiling world demands a thoughtful and immediate response.

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Earth Overshoot Day 2024 & Fashion

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Considerations for Shopping, Overconsumption and the Imminent Buying Season


August 1st marked Earth Overshoot Day 2024, meaning that in just seven months, we have consumed all the resources the planet can regenerate in a year. What does this mean for the fashion industry and our lifestyle?

The fashion industry is characterised by overproduction and excessive shopping. While brands aggressively promote overconsumption, consumers are often caught up in the desire to buy more, driven by frivolous thoughts. Only a few people consider deeper, more sustainable practices. As we enter the eighth month of the year, we have already used up the natural resources the Earth can regenerate annually. This means that from now until December 31st, we will be depleting resources that the Earth cannot naturally replenish.

Overshoot Day: Understanding calculation and global impact


Overshoot Day is calculated by determining the number of days Earth’s resources can sustain humanity’s ecological footprint. In simpler terms, we take the planet’s biocapacity – the amount of ecological resources the Earth can generate in a year – and divide it by our annual ecological footprint – the amount of natural resources humans consume in a year. This result is then multiplied by the 365 days of the year.

The ecological footprint varies by country because each nation has different amounts of resources and uses them in various ways, such as land for agriculture, water reserves, electricity, and marine areas. Therefore, each country has its own Overshoot Day.

This year, the first country to exceed its ecological capacity was Qatar (February 11), followed by Luxembourg, the United Arab Emirates, and the United States. Italy wasn’t far behind, reaching its Overshoot Day on May 19. The last countries to exceed their ecological capacity this year will be Indonesia and Ecuador on November 24, 2024.

Conclusion: Earth Overshoot Day & Fashion


Given that in just seven months we have already consumed the natural resources the Earth can generate in a year, it begs the question: are sustainable brands planning to stop their production? On what basis can we begin the buying season for fashion stores? And how can people continue to consume, travel, and live excessively while ignoring this fundamental fact?

What the heck are we doing? Perhaps, a true understanding of it should make us stop everything and pause. It should compel us to reconsider not only the fashion industry but our lifestyle as a whole.

But you can sleep well; no one will move a finger.

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Reaffirming the Cultural Narrative of Fashion

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Exploring the Threads of Identity, Style, and Societal Evolution

Reaffirming the cultural narrative of fashion helps in understanding its true essence and value, which goes way beyond the social media-generated fluff. In fact, that is not the style we like.

Fashion is culture, the culture of our times.
In other words, fashion serves as a reflection of culture – contemporary culture or any given one – offering insights into societal norms, values, and behaviours. From the style people wear, we can perceive women’s freedom or to what degree patriarchy rules. 

Identity, Style, and Societal Evolution: The Cultural Narrative Beyond Fashion

The way we dress speaks volumes about us. From the brands we buy – which, by doing so, we endorse, championing their values; to our consumption habits and preferences. It encompasses our quest for specific fabrics, our discernment of quality and materials. And even extends to the lifespan of our purchases; the amount of waste we discard;  our regard for both the labour of others and the well-being of our planet. So, through the style people wear, it is possible to read their identities and values. 

The work of a designer, creating and putting out more stuff in our contemporary context, is particularly challenging. Their task is not talking sustainability but creating an exceptional design, beautiful pieces made to last and worth buying. Good design #formodernhumans intrinsically means for brands to make garments in respect of people and the planet. Less noise, more facts. And the proof of their intentions is that they are willing to make clothes in small batches. Quality, not quantity.

Reaffirming the cultural narrative of fashion aims to highlight that fashion is not merely about clothing but also about the deeper cultural currents shaping our world. 

All these details and information can tell us who we are and where we are heading as a society.
Fashion is culture, the culture of our times.

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Milano Design Week, Fashion & Greenwashing

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Exploring Tangible Contrasts and Ethical Dilemmas in Contemporary Events

As the Milano Design Week concluded, we reflected on tangible distinctions with Fashion Week and delved into the pros and cons of the greenwashing effect evident in contemporary events.

The Milano Design Week is an annual event which serves as a platform for showcasing furniture, objects, creativity and ideas. This season’s theme, “Materia Natura” (matter nature), set the stage for contemplating the importance of environmental sustainability in the creative and design process. Also, running in parallel with the official “Salone del Mobile,” the Fuorisalone has experienced significant growth. As a result, every corner of the city boasted its own installations and events.

Blessed with beautiful sunny days, we immersed ourselves in numerous installations, many intertwined with fashion brands, just without the please-look-at-me foolishness. But a couple of reflections began to crystallise in our minds.

Milano Design Week, Fashion & Greenwashing
Milano Design Week – “Il mare dove non si tocca” by Antonio Marras

Milano Design Week & Greenwashing

The cons:
1 – The emphasis on sustainability often appeared to be mere greenwashing, given the excessive expenditure of money and resources without tangible environmental benefits. On the contrary, waste seemed clear.
2 – Some (fashion) brands participated simply to secure a spot on the list rather than with genuine needs. Indeed, this sentiment was palpable when the quality of the installation was just a way to invite people to stop by. Even among those who collaborated on a co-marketing initiative, the focus seemed to be just the marketing strategy.

Milano Design Week vs Fashion Week

The pros:
1 – In contrast to Milano Fashion Week, Design Week is more inclusive and open to anyone. And the atmosphere is way more enjoyable.
2 – The staff responsible for welcoming attendees and ensuring security exhibit a notably kinder attitude. Since Ro is a wheelchair user, we received acts of kindness during Design Week that we were not accustomed to compared to our experiences during Fashion Week.
3 – No fashion carnival, meaning no subjects begging for attention.

suite123 staff- Milano Design Week – “Il mare dove non si tocca” by Antonio Marras

However, we loved “Il mare dove non si tocca” (In the deep sea) by Antonio Marras. Upon entering the enchanting NonostanteMarras space, we encountered a temporary bar in the inner courtyard. Unfortunately, the arrangement of plants and tables left little room for a wheelchair to pass through. Witnessing our attempt, Antonio Marras jumped up and asked people to clear a path for us. Moreover, he kindly offered assistance if we wished to explore the basement area, where he showed his ceramics and a marvellous marine set-up for the restaurant area in collaboration with the Rana family. Also, we met the beautiful Antonella Rana, Global Image and Communication Director of Pastificio Rana.
Antonio Marras’ caring attitude surprised us. Such unconventional behaviour for the fashion industry standards!

The Milano Design Week concluded amidst fusions with fashion and a deluge of greenwashing. Specifically, design wins over fashion for accessibility and courtesy, but sustainability sounds too much like greenwashing. In contrast, let’s shape events where creativity harmonizes with sustainability, inspiring and innovating without compromising our planet.

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Hints of Sustainability at PFW

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Are These Sustainability Efforts Credible?

On the last days of Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 24-25, hints of sustainability emerged. Yet, amidst these hopeful murmurs, recent revelations cast a shadow of doubt over the industry’s commitment to genuine change.

Stella McCartney’s fashion show opened with a call to action to save the planet. In the video, Mother Nature sends a message to humanity: “It’s About Fucking Time.” Perhaps gentle words are no longer sufficient to spur the necessary transformation. Indeed, the stark reality of increased pollution rates this year tempers our optimism.

Apparently, Stella McCartney, an environmental activist, operates through sustainable practices. In fact, the media present her as one of the brands more involved in the discussion around sustainability.

However, reports from Business of Fashion unveil staggering figures of unsold inventory weighing heavily on these conglomerates. We quote B.O.F.: “LVMH and Kering are grappling with billions of dollars of unsold inventory.”

Analyzing sustainability hints and related news

Now, let’s compare the two pieces of news in an attempt to understand more about sustainability. In this juxtaposition, a disconcerting dissonance emerges.

LVMH and Kering are the largest conglomerates in the fashion industry. LVMH owns Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Dior, Fendi, Celine, Kenzo and many more. Kering owns Gucci, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, McQueen, Saint Laurent, and more.
Despite both groups having billions of dollars of unsold inventory, they have made countless new samples for the fashion weeks. No one tried to create beautiful presentations with fewer garments. Moreover, they are ready to churn out tons of new clothes and accessories for the Fall/Winter 24-25 season.

In 2019, Stella McCartney signed a deal with LVMH group to accelerate its worldwide development in terms of business and strategy. Before, the designer partnered with the rival conglomerate Kering. So, McCartney stands at the intersection of conflicting narratives.

Can a designer embedded within a behemoth corporation, driven by perpetual growth and overproduction, truly champion sustainability? Stella McCartney’s game recalls the manoeuvres politicians play. Perhaps sustainability in fashion remains a game of optics, a veneer to placate conscientious consumers.

Conclusion: unanswered questions

The hints of sustainability that emerged at Paris Fashion Week appear diluted, if not altogether illusory. The sobering reality of overproduction and the unsolved dilemma of excess inventory force us to confront uncomfortable truths about the industry’s commitment to change.

In conclusion, lingering questions remain with us: What fate awaits the mountains of unsold garments? Will they be incinerated, shipped off to distant shores, or left to languish in forgotten warehouses? And can we truly place our trust in designers who navigate the corridors of power within colossal conglomerates?
The answers to these questions may hold the key to unlocking a more sustainable future for fashion. One grounded not in superficial gestures but in substantive action and genuine accountability.

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