sustainability

Couture: The Future of Fashion

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Crafting Tomorrow’s Wardrobe through Quality, Customization, and Conscious Production

On our journey to trace the future of fashion, Paris Haute Couture Week SS24 offers a chance to reinforce our viewpoint on the industry. What becomes evident is the link between couture and the sustainable paradigm needed to shape the industry’s trajectory.

SS24 Haute couture

Haute Couture for luxury houses serves as a mere reaffirmation of brand power. With an endless array of outfits, it appears evident that luxury brands – and the fashion industry as a whole – fall short of comprehending the essence of sustainability and adopting a long-term perspective.

This season, collections managed to break away from monotony. Gaultier by Simone Rocha impressively redefined the designer’s DNA, while Chanel exuded loveliness. The Gallianification of Margiela seemed finally completed. Beautiful, but no trace of Margiela anymore, if not for some tabi or the logo. Yet, it’s Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino, who earns the title of a true couturier, always impeccable in his superfine tailoring and magnificent creativity.

However, among the most elaborated and creative silhouettes typical of Haute Couture, more clean and perfectly tailored pieces completed the collections. Which translates into timeless, meaningful garments for everyday style. In fact, beyond the glamour, Haute Couture provides an opportunity to reflect on the future of fashion.

Couture & sustainable fashion

In its essence, couture means made-to-order garments of impeccable quality produced in limited quantities. Therefore, it inherently embodies sustainability. In this tailoring realm, quality takes precedence over quantity, focusing on the meticulous creation of timeless pieces that embody the ethos of minimalism.

Specifically, this sustainable essence of couture is a pattern that represents the future of fashion.

At its core, couture’s commitment to made-to-order garments, crafted with unparalleled quality, shatters the notion of disposable fashion. The bespoke nature of these creations allows for customization, fostering a connection between the wearer and the garment that transcends the fleeting trends of fashion.

Indeed, by opting for fewer pieces produced in limited quantities, artisanal production aligns with conscious consumption. It’s a departure from the relentless pursuit of newness. And a testament to the idea that true luxury lies in the careful curation of one’s wardrobe. Less but better.

As we trace the steps and missteps of fashion brands, one aspect becomes apparent. The future of fashion lies not in the mass production and fleeting trends but in the intentional creation of timeless pieces that endure beyond seasons. Couture serves as the vanguard and back to the past, revealing tomorrow’s wardrobe through quality, customization, and conscious production.
A blueprint for a fashion industry where sustainability and style seamlessly coexist.

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The Greenwashing Effect

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& Where Sustainability Can Grow

Today, we read on Modem about Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s presence at COP28, and the greenwashing effect starts itching. By the way, the entire conference sparked a considerable sense of discomfort.

Indeed, the recent presence of the fashion world at COP28 in Dubai raised eyebrows and questions about the authenticity of the messages from mainstream fashion entities. Likewise, the event “Climate Change is not Cool: A Sustainability Message from the Fashion World” by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.

COP28 & the fashion industry

While it’s promising to witness fashion institutions addressing sustainability on global platforms, there’s a deep concern about greenwashing. True sustainability isn’t a marketing tactic; it’s a fundamental shift in values, production methods, and consumer behaviour. Which we failed to witness so far. When mainstream brands adopt sustainability as a buzzword without genuine commitment, they dilute the essence of real change.

The authentic roots of sustainability

A genuine, sustainable culture in fashion starts as a counter-culture, born from grassroots movements, independent designers and shops, and community-driven initiatives. It’s radical, disruptive, and not easily co-opted by corporate agendas. These movements champion transparency, good quality, ethical production, and circular economies. 

The power of the counterculture

History has shown that meaningful change often originates from the fringes, where unconventional ideas take root. These movements challenge the status quo, paving the way for a new fashion narrative that prioritises craftsmanship, durability, ethical practices, and a deeper understanding of the environmental impact.

Shifting perspectives and empowering choices

As consumers, we hold significant power in shaping the fashion industry. Embracing a more sustainable mindset involves supporting independent, ethical brands, vintage and secondhand fashion, and demanding transparency from big corporations. It’s about making informed choices that align with our values and contribute positively to a more sustainable future.

The fact that fashion entities participate in events like COP28 can create a false impression of sustainability – the greenwashing effect, indeed. However, real change happens through the efforts of communities, alternative movements, designers and shops that prioritise quality – less, much less but better – not overconsumption. 

Eventually, we must remember that we vote with our wallets; that’s how we shape the world we want. And that’s how we attest our commitment to sustainability.

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The Climate Joke

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COP28: Hypocrisy & Climate Change

If hypocrisy always accompanies the climate summit, this COP28 sounds like a joke.

Many traditional Italian jokes start like this: there is an Italian, a French and a German. Now add that they meet up in Dubai to talk about climate change. Okay, for real, COP28, the annual climate summit, is now held in Dubai. Whether you are Italian or not, you’ll laugh because it sounds like a joke!

By the way, we can expand this joke, including other countries. There are three British men who flew on three private jets to Dubai to attend a meeting led by an oil and gas CEO to talk about not using oil. And, of course, not killing the planet to satisfy their lifestyle!
In fact, according to The Independent, Sunak, Cameron and King Charles each take on private jets to travel to COP28. Three private jets to talk about cutting emissions! Surely, the right thing to do!

We could continue with the other countries in the world; the pattern doesn’t change. So, the joke gets shared.

The joke: a petro-state for climate change

Not only is COP “whatever the number,” the conference where world leaders gather to discuss climate change for about five days and then go back home with nothing done. Specifically, they postpone the change for the next 15 or 20 years, which is pure madness. It reveals a total lack of understanding of the climate emergency and a willingness to make change.
But, this year, it is even more absurd: they join in Dubai. Precisely, world leaders gather in a country whose only power relies on oil to talk about climate change. Conflict of interest? It doesn’t concern them! Private jets, helicopters, shopping in giant shopping malls – an energy-absorbing country whose energy and water consumption per capita is the highest in the world.

What are they talking about? Where are we heading?

To conclude, we share Mario Tozzi‘s words:


“There is little use in gathering at conferences like COP28, where it is more important not to step on the toes of a destructive economy than to worry about the health of the Earth. They can spare us the mockery.”


Enough with the climate joke! We cannot listen to politicians and billionaires who travel on private jets telling us how to consume! This hypocrisy is disturbing. We are fed up with it. Aren’t you?

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The paradox of sustainability

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Is sustainable overproduction a valuable strategy?

Do you know the paradox of sustainability? The paradox is this: making many more garments labelled as green products. In other words, it means perpetrating the same old overproduction pattern and marketing it as sustainable.

If that’s how you make money, why should you change? Okay, but the planet is dying, and we are facing a climate emergency the fashion industry should care about! Well, the attention towards this topic is just a facade.

In fact, according to Edited, “In the past four years, the number of clothes described as ‘sustainable’ has quadrupled.”

Green overproduction: the paradox sustainability

Yes, we know we write about this topic a lot. But when the data we ran across confirms our impressions and perplexities, it is appropriate to address it over and over.
Is sustainable overproduction a valuable strategy? Specifically, is that how we plan to save the planet? Making four times the stuff we made before is our strategy?

If this is true, we are far from reducing our impact on the planet. Of course, that is not sustainability. And it doesn’t take a genius to understand it. So, let’s call it by its name: this is marketing! This is greenwashing!

Sustainable fashion, like eco furniture, food, tourism or whatever, has become a profitable business. And more than an effective change of direction, it represented a change of marketing. Just call it green, and you’re going to sell it! Whatever object or service you are trying to launch on the market.

The solution the fashion industry ignores

Let’s be clear: sustainable fashion, rather than making new garments and new stuff in huge green quantities, is a matter of educating people towards conscious consumption. Indeed, the solution is producing way less garments. At the same time, we reuse, resell, recycle and upcycle existing clothing.

But, instead of educating people, for the fashion industry, it is easier to make money by flooding the market with sustainable products. Which, in the end, aren’t sustainable at all.

And so, this is the paradox of sustainability: making four times more garments and naming them sustainable. Unfortunately for us and for the planet, it is not a joke!

Free download our sustainability checklist here!

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Siamo Foresta

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Contemporary Art to save the nature


Yesterday we attended the opening of the “Siamo Foresta” exhibition at Triennale Milano in collaboration with Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporaine. We are forest – is the language of contemporary art focused on nature and aiming to save it from human impact.

Beyond anthropocentrism

“Siamo Foresta (we are forest) draws its inspiration from an aesthetic and political vision of the forest as an egalitarian multiverse of living peoples, human and non-human, and as such offers an allegory of a possible world beyond our anthropocentrism. The exhibition stages an unprecedented dialogue between thinkers and defenders of the forest; between indigenous artists – from New Mexico to the Paraguayan Chaco passing through the Amazon – and non-indigenous artists (Brazil, China, Colombia, France).” – source

Siamo Foresta: artists involved

“Focusing on artists from Latin America, We Are Forest presents, amongst others, the works of Jaider Esbell (Macuxi, Brazil), Cleiber Bane (Huni Kuin, Brazil), Floriberta Femin, Angelica Klassen, Esteban Klassen, Marcos Ortiz (Chaco, Paraguay), Sheroanawe Hakiihiwë, Joseca Mokahesi, and Ehuana Yaira (Yanomami, Venezuela and Brazil), Johanna Calle (Colombia), Alex Cerveny, Bruno Novelli, Santidio Pereira, Solange Pessoa, Adriana Varejao, and Luiz Zerbini (Brazil).” – source

We recommend you visit the exhibition, it’s open until October 29!

Siamo foresta

As we entered the rooms, a quote caught our attention:

“The forest is alive. It can only die if the white people persist in destroying it: if they succeed, the rivers will disappear underground, the soil will crumble, the trees will shrivel up, and the stones will crack in the heat. The dried-up earth will become empty and silent.”

David Kopenawa, The Falling Sky 2010

Siamo Foresta: nature focused contemporary art

Captured by green in every shade and two corners of the forest installation with large lush plants we could walk through. And bright colours; but also some impressive black and white, all with potent imagery and a touching sense of light. Indeed we were amazed to discover the drawings some indigenous self-taught artists made just with a ballpoint pen.
A fun detail, a man saw Cri standing next to a painting in her anis slipdress by Marc Le Bihan and said: “Your colours perfectly match this painting. You should be in it! Let me take you a picture!”
Indeed, we all wore colours in line with the exhibition. Perhaps when we made our Spring-Summer 23, the forest mood inspired us!

In the end, another quote made us reflect:

“It began with separating man from nature and establishing him as a sovereign kingdom; it was thus believed to erase the most irrefutable character of him, namely that he is primarily a living being. And, remaining blind to this common property, the field has been given free rein to all abuses.”  

Claude Levi-Strauss – Structural Anthropology 2

This quote from Claude Levi-Strauss – Structural Anthropology 2 – is dated 1973. In 2023, fifty years later, there’s a summit on sustainability every day! Nothing has changed over time. In fact, now climate change is irreversible, but we are just talking.

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