fashion industry

De Sarno Leaves Gucci: A Different Perspective

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Was the previous tenure worth the ride? And what game are corporations really playing with fashion?


As Sabato De Sarno abruptly leaves Gucci, the fashion world is abuzz with speculation about the brand’s future. But beyond the headlines, his departure raises deeper questions about the state of the luxury fashion industry and the role of creative directors in shaping iconic brands. While most are focused on who will take the reins next, we’re asking a different question: What is this game truly about?

As the fashion industry remains engrossed in a never-ending game of musical chairs—currently involving other maisons like Dior and Fendi—we can’t help but question the very foundation of the industry itself.

Specifically, in Gucci’s case, we ask: Was the previous tenure—Alessandro Michele’s era—worth the ride?

Retracing Gucci’s path before De Sarno


Alessandro Michele transformed Gucci’s image, imposing his own aesthetic—a chaotic, flea-market-inspired vision where anything was possible but which bore little resemblance to the brand’s heritage. Worse, he flooded the market with products that became repetitive, overexposed, and ultimately unsellable, even at steep discounts.

When the game was over, Michele was dismissed. It was a matter of ego rather than thoughtful stewardship—a failure to honour Gucci’s history and values.

He left, but the damage was done. Gucci’s legacy was diluted, its market oversaturated with items like furry slippers that no one wanted anymore.

The House of Gucci: Enter Sabato De Sarno


De Sarno was tasked with performing a miracle: cleaning up the mess in less than two seasons. Unfortunately, this didn’t happen—and not because of him. Rebuilding a brand’s identity and value takes time. But for corporations, time is a luxury they can’t afford. They are even ignorant about fashion; money is their only focus. They demand immediate results, immediate profits. And in the face of a luxury market slowdown, those profits didn’t materialise.

On this matter, we particularly admire Fecondazione Prada’s satirical take on Instagram:

“Large luxury company looking for new scapegoat.
er… creative director.”

This biting commentary nails the reality of how luxury brands often treat creative directors as disposable, shifting blame when strategies fail.

On De Sarno leaving Gucci


Destroying the legacy of a fashion house might have seemed like a bold move—even a fun game. In reality, it’s a dangerous gamble, one that leaves lasting scars.

As Sabato De Sarno leaves Gucci, we’re not asking who will replace him. Instead, we’re left wondering: What was the point of Michele’s game? Was it ever worth replicating at Valentino? And, ultimately, what game are corporations really playing with fashion?


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Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture Week

Reading Time: 3 minutes

When lightness meets the weight of Arnault’s words on Trump


One eye on the Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture Week, the other on Bernard Arnault’s praise for Trump. A season meant to celebrate lightness—now weighed down by heavy words.

From Monday, 27 January, to Thursday, 30 January 2025 in Paris, the world of haute couture unveils its splendour. So, a grand display of craftsmanship and imagination—one that ultimately serves a more practical purpose: selling perfumes and cosmetics.

However, we took some time to watch a few video clips, though Arnault’s praise for Trump felt like a cold shower. Bernard Arnault, founder, chairman, and CEO of the LVMH group—a conglomerate that owns Dior, Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, Fendi, Moët & Chandon, and Veuve Clicquot—made headlines with his recent statement:

“I see optimism in the United States after Trump’s inauguration,” he said, contrasting it with France, where rising corporate taxes and growing unemployment are weighing on the economy.

Meanwhile, LVMH reported a 17% drop in net profit, reflecting a broader luxury slowdown. Arnault now looks to the U.S. as a potential bright spot, hoping it will offset weakening demand in China.

A few Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture Highlights


Schiaparelli: Ribbons, bustier gowns, body-hugging dresses, and dramatic special effects. Roseberry looks to couture’s past, to its relentless pursuit of perfection. An unapologetic maximalist, he pushes haute couture to its limits, exploring just how far it can go.

Chanel: A logo-shaped catwalk featuring the iconic double C—white and minimal—set the stage for a collection that exuded lightness. The Chanel woman is fresh and carefree, dressed in soft pastel hues enhanced by accents of purple and red. Now, let’s see what Blazy will bring to the table.

Dior: The concept of a bird-woman made Chiuri less boring than usual. Models walked against a floral, vividly coloured backdrop, wearing punkish feathered headpieces reminiscent of bird crests—symbols of freedom. Ruffles, sheer fabrics, and cage-like crinolines completed the vision. Chiuri, for once, was not entirely dull.

Other shows are taking place, with only a handful streamed live—such as Jean Paul Gaultier. Most follow the “film revealed later” formula, perhaps in an attempt to maintain a sense of exclusivity. Real or not, by the following day, social media will be awash with clips and images.

What kind of world are global leaders shaping?


While we keep an eye on the Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture Week as a source of inspiration, we can’t help but ask: what kind of world are people like Arnault shaping? According to him, should France and Europe follow Trump’s vision? Is that really their recipe for a meaningful future?

And what about LVMH’s sustainability commitments? With Trump withdrawing from climate agreements, will LVMH follow suit—or take a stand?

It’s all quite concerning.

Ultimately, what about the end customers? So, what about you? Are you willing to support brands that embrace this worldview?



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Fashion in 2025: Navigating Political Influence and Economic Turmoil

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What lies ahead for the industry?


Fashion in 2025 navigates a delicate balance between political influence and economic turmoil. But what are the challenges and shifts shaping the industry? What lies ahead for the future of fashion?

Recent political events and ongoing wars (including the much-awaited but uncertain ceasefire in Gaza) have generated significant economic challenges, while Trump’s re-election in the US signals an unstable and tumultuous year ahead. Sustainability, once a key focus, has largely disappeared from the agenda, and consumer trust continues to erode.

Struggles shaping the fashion in 2025


If 2024 was a difficult year, 2025 offers little reprieve. According to a report by McKinsey & Company, 80% of fashion executives foresee no improvement in the global fashion industry this year. Furthermore, Trump’s re-election has sparked deep concerns across multiple fronts, with profound implications for the fashion world.

Trump’s proposed tariff hikes threaten to reshape trade flows. As The Times aptly headlines: “The Fashion World Fears High Tariffs”

President-elect Donald J. Trump has proposed a tax of at least 60% on goods from China—a move that could devastate small American brands. Counter-sourcing will likely become one of the biggest struggles for these businesses.

According to the National Retail Federation, Trump’s tariff proposals could increase apparel prices by 12.5% and footwear prices by 18.1%. If Chinese-made goods are hit with higher tariffs, the cost of everything from mobile phone cases to Barbies could skyrocket. In this scenario, pricier trousers may be the least of consumers’ concerns.

Most critically, “The idea that a substantial American apparel manufacturing industry could be revived overnight is a myth,” as designers point out. There are neither enough skilled workers to support such a transition, nor the infrastructure to sustain it. (source)

Yet, Trump’s politics won’t stop at America’s borders—European markets will also feel the strain.

2025: Market trends


The negative environment predicted a year ago has now taken hold. Consumers, having experienced a period of high inflation, are increasingly price-sensitive. Meanwhile, the acceleration of climate change and a marked shift away from sustainability further compound the challenges.

Economic uncertainty, geographic disparities, and shifting consumer behaviours dominate the fashion landscape. To remain relevant, brands must adapt—not by chasing fleeting trends but by proving their lasting value. Consumers demand more than just products; they seek alignment with their personal values and a genuine commitment to purpose.

The way forward


Fashion in 2025 resides at the intersection of political influence and economic turmoil. In a climate of instability, the question isn’t merely about survival but about meaningful evolution. Brands that centre their strategies on value and integrity will stand out. This means doubling down on quality, fostering transparent communication, and investing in long-term relationships with both customers and suppliers.

As we navigate 2025, let’s shift the narrative. Let’s champion resilience, creativity, and authenticity. In the face of adversity, fashion has the unique power to inspire and connect. Let’s make that the legacy of this challenging year.


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Oliviero Toscani: A Life Lived Against The Grain

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Lessons from his visionary and controversial legacy


Oliviero Toscani, the trailblazing photographer known for his provocative campaigns, has passed away at 82 from a rare disease. Iconoclastic, daring, and deeply influential, Toscani leaves behind a body of work that continues to inspire and challenge conventional thinking.

Back in August, Toscani revealed to the newspaper Corriere della Sera that he had been diagnosed with a terminal illness, amyloidosis. This rare condition involves a build-up of abnormal protein deposits in the body, disrupting its functions. Also, he candidly admitted he didn’t know how much time he had left.

For many of us, Toscani’s work was an indelible part of growing up. In fact, his bold imagery for Benetton’s campaigns was inescapable, with each new billboard sparking heated debates and social discourse. However, Toscani wasn’t just a photographer; he was a provocateur who made audacity the cornerstone of his work.

The visionary yet controversial legacy of Oliviero Toscani


In his own words, Toscani succinctly expressed his philosophy:

“If you tell the truth, you scare people; if you’re free, you scare people. I believe provocation is intrinsic to art. If art doesn’t provoke something, it’s useless: it must spark discussions, perspectives, interest, and maybe even change someone’s mind.”

This ethos defined his career. Toscani’s work was provocative, unorthodox, and visionary. Specifically, he was a pioneer in merging fashion with societal commentary, often choosing to omit the product itself to spotlight larger narratives. Diversity—at a time when no one talked about it. Racism. Anorexia.

His approach defied trends and market demands. As he once declared:

“I don’t do things for the market; I don’t even know what the market wants.”

One of his most striking statements resonates profoundly:

“Life only makes sense if lived ‘against.’ Conformity kills creativity.”

It’s a call to do things when others don’t, to break free from the norm and embrace creative freedom. 

Finally, in an interview on the Italian TV programme Quante Storie — a show dedicated to exploring new books — Toscani delivered a piercing critique of modern culture:

“I find social media to be mental concentration camps that create uniformity.”

This sentiment underscores his lifelong fight against mediocrity and conformity, championing a world where art and thought challenge and inspire.

Conclusion


Oliviero Toscani, who passed away at 82, leaves a profound legacy defined by attentive observation and uncompromising provocation. His work serves as a testament to the importance of questioning the status quo and embracing a new perspective. Toscani’s fearless creativity will resonate for years, inspiring future generations to push boundaries and challenge the ordinary.

Most importantly, his legacy teaches us to use our work—whatever it may be—to deliver a deeper message.


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The Luxury Shame: A Growing Sentiment

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How the perception of luxury is evolving in a changing world


“Luxury shame” has emerged as one of the most pressing realities highlighted in the latest Altagamma Observatory 2024. It represents a shift towards avoiding ostentation, favouring discretion, and supporting local products.

Take China, for example, where government policies have actively discouraged conspicuous displays of wealth. In times of crisis, the Chinese government seeks to shield the younger generation from materialism by curbing excessive consumption and promoting the purchase of domestic goods. However, this sentiment extends beyond China, casting ripples that impact global luxury brands.

What does ‘luxury shame’ means?


But what exactly is luxury shame? It refers to a behavioural trend among affluent individuals, particularly those in the upper-middle class, who feel uncomfortable displaying their wealth publicly. They fear social judgement, or worse, being vilified by those less fortunate.

We have long questioned the decline of luxury brands. Their strategy of inflating prices while compromising on quality is increasingly glaring. Mass-produced goods, no matter how expensive, fail to embody true luxury. True luxury is not about price tags; it is about craftsmanship, rarity, and authenticity—qualities many so-called luxury products seem to lack today.

So, more in detail, what is luxury? As Coco Chanel aptly stated: “Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity.”

Since the advent of social media, we have been inundated with images flaunting luxury. Yet, in this deluge, vulgarity has flourished. The pervasive portrayal of luxury is often exaggerated, inauthentic, and gaudy, eroding the essence of elegance. As contemporary luxury has expanded, true elegance seems to have vanished entirely.

Conclusion


In these times of instability and perma-crisis, luxury shame has become a powerful counterforce, with ostentatious displays of wealth increasingly condemned as vulgar and inappropriate. Could this herald a transformation, purging social media of its garish excess?
While a complete reset may be unlikely, it may ignite a much-needed shift towards a more thoughtful, refined, and genuinely elegant direction.

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