fashion industry

Isn’t the Relentless Game of Musical Chairs Fueling Fashion’s Inconsistency?

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Questioning the strategy behind the constant change of creative directors


A while back, we wrote a post about creative directors and the relentless game of musical chairs—a situation that has become increasingly common. Now, the topic has resurfaced abruptly across several fashion brands. As they hop from chair to chair, is it about power, visibility, or something else?

Last week, breaking news revealed significant shifts at the helm of major brands. Specifically, Galliano has departed from Margiela with no news yet of his next destination. Matthieu Blazy left Bottega Veneta for Chanel, while Louise Trotter departed Carven to join Bottega Veneta—finally, a woman at the forefront. Moreover, rumours are circulating about Jonathan Anderson preparing for a new role.

These frequent changes evoke the game of musical chairs: they provide plenty to talk about but often leave people perplexed. Yet, this appears to be the prevailing strategy of luxury fashion brands, with designers seemingly changing every few years.

What is the strategy behind the relentless game of musical chairs?


But what is the strategy behind these moves? Is it simply a way to stay in the spotlight, dominate conversations, and remain relevant? Are brands confident that luxury shoppers prefer fleeting buzz over meaningful products that embody the values of a specific brand—products of which there is almost no trace?

Many creative directors show little to no respect for the heritage and DNA of the brands they represent. Meanwhile, scepticism towards the concept of luxury continues to grow, even because luxury products do not keep their promise. Do they not realise that this constant game of musical chairs risks further damaging the image of luxury itself?

Conclusion


This excessive shuffling has significant consequences: brands lose identity and consistency, while consumer trust erodes. The original design codes and unique DNA that once defined each maison become blurred, leaving the brands looking increasingly alike. Yet, in an industry dominated by oversized egos, appointing a new creative director seems to be the ultimate goal for luxury brands—even at the cost of trust and respect.

In conclusion, this constant turnover appears to be the prevailing strategy for luxury maisons—something consumers will need to get used to. But is this revolving door truly beneficial for the brands? Or is the relentless game of musical chairs only fuelling fashion’s inconsistency?

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Netflix: Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy – Why you should watch

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Corporate tricks that encourage overconsumption and why accountability matters


The latest Netflix documentary on sustainability, Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy, released on November 20th this year, is a must-watch for anyone who shops—anywhere.

12,000, 25,000, 36,000, and 1.3 million. What do these numbers represent? They are the staggering quantities of items produced annually by Gap, H&M, Zara, and Shein, respectively.

Intrigued by how we, as consumers, are persuaded to buy more than we need, I decided to watch it. The trailer promised a compelling exploration of this phenomenon.

Netflix, Buy Now!: Corporate manipulation exposed


Have you ever wondered where all those products go—the ones we discard without a second thought? This so-called “away” isn’t some magical place. It’s real, and it’s devastating.

This is where away is:

The land of waste


Netflix’s Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy takes an instructional approach to unravel the system behind overconsumption. The documentary is structured around five shocking directives: sell more, waste more, lie more, hide more, and control more.
Throughout these segments, former insiders from Amazon, Apple, Unilever, and Adidas reveal how companies manipulate us. Eric Liedtke, former Adidas Brand President, explains it bluntly: “You don’t need a new piece of clothing; you need a compelling reason to buy it.”

Netflix Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy – Official trailer


Have you noticed that the colour of Sprite bottles is no longer green but clear plastic? Even these subtle changes have a sinister purpose. Coca-Cola made the change to hide the environmental impact of their products. In fact, when the bottles were green they were easily identifiable in landfills.

But the manipulation doesn’t stop at marketing. It extends to how products are designed, determining their lifespan and whether they can be repaired. These calculated decisions ensure a cycle of relentless consumption, benefiting corporations at the expense of people and the planet.

The impact of product design and consumer behaviour


In today’s world, items are no longer built to last, they have short lifespans. Phones get replaced every three years, and clothing falls apart after a few washes so people replace it every month, if not weekly.

There are some things my family has had for more than ten years that have lasted the test of time, from our Christmas tree my parents bought more than twenty years ago to the dining table they have that has been repurposed into a desk. These pieces were built to last, unlike many products today. Take my computer, for instance. In the six years I’ve owned it, I’ve had to replace the battery. But, the battery is glued inside the device, requiring the replacement of an entire panel.

This isn’t an accident. Kyle Wiens, CEO of iFixit, says Apple censors information so that consumers find it harder to repair devices, making them more likely to buy a new one.
A prime example of this approach is wireless earphones. They are designed with batteries precisely placed and glued into the devices, making replacements nearly impossible. The result? Consumers are left with no choice but to discard and replace them when the battery dies—further fuelling the cycle of waste.

The design flaws and deliberate barriers to repairability aren’t going unnoticed. Recent efforts, such as New York’s legislation on the right to repair electronic products and the EU’s new environmental regulations, demonstrate a growing awareness of the issue. While some companies are taking steps toward sustainability, these efforts remain insufficient to counteract the immense damage already done.

Conclusion: Netflix Buy Now! No novelty, but worth watching


It may not be a groundbreaking concept, but the Netflix documentary Buy Now! effectively exposes corporate manipulation. Hopefully, it will reach a broader audience.

While corporations and governments bear the greatest responsibility for systemic change, as individuals we hold significant power too. We can demand accountability from companies, advocate for action through our local representatives and most importantly, make mindful choices in our daily lives. This means buying less, prioritising true quality garments that are made to last and exploring vintage or second-hand options whenever possible.

Before making your next purchase, ask yourself: Do I really need that new fast-fashion dress?

Every decision we make has the power to challenge the status quo and contribute to a more sustainable future.

✍️ Post written by Sorcha Gorman, a scholar from Melbourne / Australia, studying Public Relations at Università Cattolica in Milan. Currently interning with suite123.

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Galliano Departs Margiela – Now Confirmed

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A decade transfiguring contemporary fashion


The news is here, freshly reported by fashion outlets: John Galliano departs Margiela. While his tenure brought substantial growth to OTB—the group that owns the Maison—it also exemplified a troubling trend in contemporary fashion: the distortion of archival treasures that deserve respect. For this reason, we view his departure without regret.

Galliano’s time at Margiela was pivotal for both parties. For OTB, it was a period of rapid growth and brand elevation. For Galliano, it provided an opportunity to rehabilitate his public image following previous controversies. Now, after more than a decade of collaboration, Galliano exits the Maison, leaving behind a legacy that has sparked both acclaim and critique.

In our earlier post, Decoding Margiela’s Gallianification, we examined how the brand shifted to reflect Galliano’s personal identity. This transformation mirrors a broader industry pattern: creative directors imprinting their aesthetics on every house they helm, often at the expense of the brand’s original vision.

A troubling pattern in the fashion industry


What Galliano did with Margiela is emblematic of a larger issue in the luxury fashion industry. Creative directors often place their personal vision centre-stage, overshadowing the founder’s ethos. Their approach recycles a singular aesthetic, applying it indiscriminately across brands. This practice is enabled by corporate resources, extensive archives, and relentless marketing campaigns.

The result? Brands lose their distinctiveness, morphing into interchangeable entities. As creative directors move from one Maison to another, they replicate the same formula under a different logo, leaving behind a trail of diluted brand identities.

This erosion of authenticity and uniqueness undermines the very pillars of luxury fashion. As highlighted in a recent Altagamma report, consumers increasingly struggle to recognise the essence of luxury amidst this homogenisation.

The game of profit over vision


Our commentary reflects the absurd reality of today’s fashion landscape. An industry once celebrated for its idiosyncratic creativity has devolved into an empty vessel, chasing profit over vision. The relentless pursuit of marketability and trends has stripped many Maisons of their credibility and authenticity.

Conclusion


The news that Galliano departs Margiela is not surprising. His tenure served as a platform for personal rehabilitation while driving significant growth for the Maison. However, it also highlighted one of the industry’s pervasive issues: the prioritisation of individual ego over collective heritage.

Now, the question is: Will Galliano do Galliano under his own brand name, where his vision would truly make sense? Or are we about to witness the Gallianification of yet another fashion house?

Only time will tell, but one thing is clear: the fashion industry must reckon with its identity crisis if it hopes to reclaim its authenticity and creativity.

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Value For Money: The Fashion Industry Pain

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The price-quality disconnect in fashion eroding consumers’ trust


As the fashion industry grapples with economic uncertainty and slowing growth, the concept of ‘value for money‘ has become more significant. For many consumers, a critical question looms: is what we’re buying truly worth the price? 

Value for money: price, quality, perceived value


But what exactly does ‘value for money’ mean? Simply put, it measures whether the quality or benefit of a purchase justifies its cost. In essence, it’s about whether an item is truly worth the price. It’s a balance of quality and price over the sheer abundance of choice.

Fashion brands convey a message of identity and status. Prices play a pivotal role in this storytelling – brands set their price points, shaping how customers perceive their products. A price tag is more than a number; it communicates the brand’s qualities and positions it within the market spectrum: budget at the lower end, luxury at the top, and value somewhere in between.

Specifically, luxury brands captivate shoppers who prioritize quality and prestige over cost. However, their success isn’t solely tied to high prices. True luxury embodies unique characteristics: items handcrafted by skilled artisans, the use of uncommon or exceptional materials, often in limited production.

The shift in the fashion industry


Over time, pricing strategies in the fashion industry have reflected a fundamental shift in its structure. What began as family-run businesses rooted in creativity and savoir-faire has evolved into corporations focused on finance, growth, and profit. This transition transformed luxury fashion from a niche industry producing for the few into one catering to the masses.

When price betrays quality


But in recent years, prices have increased disproportionately, often without justification. As a result, customer trust has eroded, and many consumers are beginning to see through the facade. High-profile investigations into luxury brands like Armani and Dior have exposed common industry practices: exploitation, drastic reductions in quality, and inflated prices – all aimed at maximizing profits.

However, brands cannot simply lower their prices and flood the market with cheaper products, as Andrea Guerra, CEO of Prada Group, has pointed out. Indeed, he candidly admitted that “raising prices so much was a huge mistake.” As a solution, Guerra emphasizes the need for ‘better stories.’ But storytelling alone cannot restore trust if the core issue -disproportionate pricing – remains unaddressed. If even luxury clients no longer perceive luxury in what they purchase, it signals a total loss of credibility.

Value for money: keeping the promise


Better stories might sound appealing, but without substance, they amount to little more than marketing gloss. A compelling narrative won’t convince shoppers if brands continue selling polyester at the price of silk. The true brand value lies in delivering genuine quality, and right now, luxury brands are falling short.

Ultimately, the path to rebuilding consumers’ trust lies in keeping the promise. Consumers will fall in love with brands again when the price reflects quality, and when brands deliver the value they claim to represent.

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Altagamma Observatory 2024 & The Luxury Shame

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Andrea Guerra – Prada Group CEO: “It was a huge mistake to raise prices so much.”


The Altagamma Observatory 2024, one of the most anticipated events for insights into the global luxury market, took place in Milan on November 13. Among the many revelations, a candid remark from Andrea Guerra, CEO of Prada Group, stood out: “It was a huge mistake to raise prices so much.” Indeed, this striking admission highlights a pivotal moment for the industry, sparking discussions about the balance between exclusivity and accessibility in luxury fashion.

Altagamma Observatory 2024 offered an in-depth view of the luxury industry’s evolving challenges and opportunities. Specifically, experts and industry leaders shared insights into the current market climate, highlighting missteps and urging a reevaluation of strategies.

Altagamma Observatory 2024 – 23rd edition


After Altagamma President Matteo Lunelli’s opening remarks, Stefania Lazzaroni, General Director of Altagamma, presented insights into market trends and future forecasts through the Altagamma Consensus 2025, which leading financial analysts developed. Then, Claudia D’Arpizio and Federica Levato, Senior Partners at Bain & Company, unveiled the Altagamma-Bain Worldwide Luxury Market Monitor. Consequently, Industry leaders, including Laura Burdese (Bvlgari), Patrick Chalhoub (Chalhoub Group), Alfonso Dolce (Dolce & Gabbana), Andrea Guerra (Prada Group), Pier Francesco Nervini (Global Blue), and Marco Piscitelli (Molteni Group), discussed the research findings.

President of the Altagamma Foundation, Matteo Lunelli emphasized the significance of the Altagamma research as an international benchmark. Then, he painted a picture of an industry at a crossroads, marked by global uncertainties such as geopolitical tensions, wars, and inflation that have caused consumers, especially the middle class, to lose purchasing power. Also, the slowdown in China and a change in the USA with the Trump election will cause a potential 10-20% increase in duties. But both markets are crucial for Italian products. So, 2025 will be a year of transition, and recovery expected in 2030.
Lunelli’s key factors: Know-how, creativity, technological innovation, sustainability.
In conclusion, he advocates for collective action through partnerships, and collaborations.

Market trends and forecasts: Altagamma Consensus 2025


Stefania Lazzaroni, General Director of Altagamma, presented 2025 data analysts’ estimates on market trends:

1. General Trends:

  • Uncertain global situation, due to inflation and price increases.
  • Moderate overall growth expected.

2. Regional Performance:

  • Middle East: Best performer with +5% growth.
  • Europe: Moderate growth at +2%, impacted by wars and challenges in France, Germany, and England.
  • North America: +3.5% growth expected.
  • Japan: Modest growth of +2%.
  • China: +3%, with the phenomenon of “luxury shame” increasing.

3. Consumer Trends:

  • American consumers show signs of recovery.

4. Distribution Channels:

  • Retail: +5% growth, driven by enhanced customer experiences and entertainment, outperforming wholesale.

5. Best-Performing Product Categories:

  • Cosmetics: +6% (cosmetics and skincare show strong growth).
  • Jewellery: +4.5%.
  • Watches: 1% decline.
  • Leather goods and footwear: Underperforming.
  • Clothing: Stable at +3%.

6. Overall Sector Growth:

  • Cautious growth of +3% is forecasted for the entire high-end sector.

Altagamma Obervatory 2024: industry leaders


Pier Francesco Nervini / Global Blue

Nervini is the first industry leader to speak at the Altagamma Observatory 2024.
Tax-free and tourism sectors have performed well, with Southern Europe showing strong results, while Northern Europe faces a crisis, except for Norway. But the market dynamics have shifted:
Since July, the average spending per transaction has decreased, with travellers spending less on each purchase. However, even high spenders are becoming more cautious, highlighting the need to reconsider pricing strategies. Most importanlty, Nervini emphasized that selling now requires a deeper understanding of data rather than simply having a selling speech in line with the interlocutor.

Regional Performance:
Italy outperforms France, which is struggling despite hosting the Olympics, as high spenders tend to avoid such events. Spain excells due to its effective institutionalization of tourism.

Key Insight: In conclusion, Nervini underscored the importance of cultured choices and price sensitivity in adapting to evolving market conditions.

Bain & Company – Claudia D’Arpizio


2024 marks a year of significant changes, with a challenging future shaped by many open scenarios. Consumers, when engaged, react to brand strategies.
Key insights:

  • The year is expected to end with flat growth, marked by a shift from products to experiences.
  • The top-tier luxury segment remains the most resilient, while the aspirational segment faces greater challenges.
  • Experiences are growing faster than products, and within products, the experiential aspect is becoming increasingly vital.

Despite current difficulties, the market is holding steady rather than collapsing. In essence, brands must reignite consumer connection by placing them at the heart of their strategies.

Bain & Company – Federica Levato

  • Tourism Drives Growth: Luxury market growth is fueled by tourism, especially in Japan, Europe, and the Middle East. But other regions, including China, are experiencing a decline.
  • Shift in Retail Dynamics: Outlets outperform full-price stores, and online sales are stabilizing, incorporated with mono-brand strategies. Consumers spend less time engaging with products, increasing the focus on content over goods.
  • Category Trends:
    • Beauty and eyewear remain strong entry-price categories, alongside jewellery.
    • Footwear is losing its entry-price appeal due to rising costs.
    • Categories like clothing, bags, and watches are in decline, although watches are seeing a natural slowdown after booming during COVID-19.
  • Pricing & Volumes:
    • Significant price increases occurred in 2022/2023.
    • Volumes have decreased by double digits; but excluding beauty and eyewear, the decline would be even more pronounced.
  • Consumer Dynamics:
    • 50 Million Consumers Exit Luxury: Rising prices and broken trust have driven many away from the market.
    • Focus on Top Customers: High-spending customers, who make up nearly half the market, feel less valued due to a lack of unique, personalized experiences. Gen Z is the most affected generation.
  • Value Perception:
    • Consumers demand more value for money, expecting creativity, quality, and emotional resonance to justify rising prices.
    • Customer advocacy has sharply declined, with even affluent individuals struggling to perceive the value of luxury.
  • Key Strategies for Recovery:
    • Regain customer trust through creativity, brand purpose, and cultural relevance to justify premium pricing.
    • Strengthen relationships by offering tailored experiences and expanding emotional connections with diverse consumer tools.
    • Address the rise of local brands in the USA and China, as they threaten to capture market share.
    • Leverage the growing second-hand market, which grew by 6–7% in a year of stagnation.

Alfonso Dolce (CEO of Dolce & Gabbana) and Marco Piscitelli (CEO of Molteni)


Alfonso Dolce:
This year marks Dolce & Gabbana’s 40th anniversary, as the brand evolves into a lifestyle entity encompassing beauty, eyewear, home, furniture, food, and hospitality.
The transformation is rooted in the vision of its two founders, whose curiosity drives innovation while preserving heritage. Specifically, their focus on the pleasure of beauty enables them to tell a story of Italian culture, fostering increased consumption.
Today, their strategy prioritizes high-quality tourist flows, emphasizing key cities rather than broad geographic areas.
A commitment to sustainability focuses on quality and creativity to produce durable goods. As members of Associazione Ricrea, they collaborate with other brands in a continuous effort to improve sustainability practices.

Marco Piscitelli:
Molteni‘s approach is rooted in long-term planning and diversified programming, with projects designed for extended duration.
The Molteni Museum serves as a source of inspiration and innovation.

“Sustainability means responsibility, we make high-quality durable goods” – said Piscitelli.

Stefania Lazzaroni emphasized that brands act as cultural operators, investing in sustainability initiatives, enriching projects, and youth development. Collaboration, especially in sustainability, is key to driving progress.

Patrick Chalhoub – President, Chalhoub Group


In 2025, the Chalhoub Group will celebrate its 70th anniversary. As a leader in the Middle Eastern retail market, the company was founded to promote luxury in a region where it was once unfamiliar.
2024 Outlook:
A challenging year ahead reflects a need for the luxury sector to refocus on creativity, added value, services, and excellence.
There is a pressing need to engage younger generations and understand how to win their loyalty.
Growth is expected to be around 6–7%, driven mainly by the beauty and watch sectors, with clothing lagging behind.
2025 Projections:
Anticipated to be stable yet dynamic, with Gen Z comprising more than 30% of the luxury consumer base. Understanding their priorities is essential.
In the Gulf region, skincare remains underutilized, presenting an opportunity for growth.

“We need to innovate to dialogue with young people. We need to create events that have meaning for our audience, micro-events, and one-to-one dialogues, to make the consumer understand that they are at the center of our value proposition. The important thing is to have a direction and follow it. We need to make people aware of what we are doing, even if we are not growing like the others. During this period of time, we need to be determined and patient.” – Patrick Chalhoub

To conlcude Chalhoub’s Altagamma Observatory 2024 contribution, Lazzaroni asks: What are the easiest categories of success in your market? Easy categories: luxury personal goods for high net-worth individuals. Instead, there are great opportunities in residential furnishings and jewellery.

Laura Burdese (Deputy CEO of Bulgari), and Andrea Guerra (CEO of Prada Group)


Laura Burdese (Bulgari):
Bulgari, founded in 1884, celebrates 140 years of legacy, with products designed for an eternal life cycle, enriched by centuries of Roman history embedded in the brand’s DNA.
Brand Elements:
Bulgari’s positioning focuses on Mediterranean style, blending materials, colours, and shapes in a dynamic, ever-evolving way that aims to surprise and inspire.
The Bulgari Foundation has a long-standing commitment to supporting social causes, focusing on restoration works in Rome (e.g., the Baths of Diocletian) and beyond. Foundation’s key pillars:
1. Art & Patronage: Supporting young artists and preserving artistic heritage.
2. Education & Philanthropy: In partnership with Save the Children, Bulgari has donated over 115 million € this year.
3. Investing in Savoir-faire: Bulgari represents one of the largest manufacturing operations in Europe, preserving and promoting artisanal craftsmanship.

Stefania Lazzaroni highlights the social impact that brands like Bulgari contribute to society.

Altagamma Observatory 2024 – best performer:
Both Prada and Bulgari represent the top performers in 2024.

Andrea Guerra (CEO of Prada Group):


Prada was founded in 1913, and with over 100 years of history and 14,000 employees. Therefore, they have a strong heritage. But, history and the transversality with various brands are key to their identity. Guerra starts with two important points:
1. On Pricing and Brand Value:

“Claudia (Bain & Company) spoke at least five times about prices, and I believe this is the most total failure in our industry. When we talk about prices without having made people fall in love with our products, when we fail to tell a compelling story, or when we betray the consumer by not delivering the value we promise, that’s, in my opinion, the total failure of our work. This does not mean we should lower prices. The huge mistake in the last 7-8 years has been raising base prices too much, starting from entry-level prices. You don’t solve the price issue by lowering prices. You solve it by telling a story, being credible, and ensuring your value proposition is reflected in the product. In recent years, raising prices has been too easy.”

2. On Market Challenges in 2024:

“2024 is the first year, after 25 years, of difficulty and tension. Over the past 25 years, the sector has multiplied its value by five or six, and the average price point is no longer relevant. This growth led to a lack of attention to costs. Now, we need to refocus on the fundamentals. We need a sense of measure. In fact, the companies doing better in the sector are those that have focused on long-term brand and creativity management. The tension between brand and creativity is vital. The business is smaller than the brand, so the business must be taken back.”
“For Prada, this moment rewards our deep, long-term work.”

Laura Burdese (Bulgari):

  • “We have our core, we know who we are, and from there, we move forward. We have a clear long-term vision. But we do not expect India to become the new China next year.”

Guerra on Market Evolution:

  • “There are areas where we are underrepresented, like the USA and China. Also, the relationship with the local consumer is more important than the one with the tourist, and this relationship is evolving. The brand is now a reflection of one’s values, and the new generations measure you on assets such as sustainability. When engaging with the local consumer, you must provide hospitality, credibility, and uniqueness. You need to make the consumer feel that this brand or product is truly theirs.”

On the Changing Market Landscape:

  • “The helm in this changing market is, for me, the tension between brand and creativity. It’s one of the most fundamental dynamics in this sector.”

Craftsmanship and Investment:

  • Prada and Bulgari are both committed to investing in craftsmanship and forming new artisans. “Crafts schools are not second-rate institutions,” said Guerra.

Conclusion


In conclusion, Andrea Guerra’s candid remarks at the Altagamma Observatory 2024 highlight the shifting dynamics of the luxury market and the critical need for a balanced approach to pricing and brand storytelling. As global uncertainties continue to influence consumer behaviour, the luxury industry faces challenges in maintaining trust, relevance, and creativity. Moreover, addressing the concept of luxury shame – a growing concern among consumers – calls for aligning brand values with sustainability, and redefining what luxury truly means in today’s world.

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