Decoding Margiela’s Gallianification

Exploring the Impact of Galliano’s Vision on Maison Margiela and the Fashion Industry

Decoding Margiela’s Gallianification, completed in the recent Artisanal SS24 couture show, prompts questions about the direction of the fashion industry.

As John Galliano fully embraces his creative role at Margiela, we witness a brand transfiguration under a new vision. The show, a clear display of Galliano’s aesthetic, raises inquiries about the essence of this transformation. Why not celebrate Galliano’s vision under his own brand name? What is the significance of reshaping Margiela into something it originally was not?

SS24 Haute Couture: Margiela’s Gallianification completed

A play of lights and shadows. In an underpass of the Seine, a theatrical representation showed the ritual of dressing, using the body as a canvas, attempting to express the emotional form of man. Like puppets moved by invisible strings, the models seemed to come to life step by step together with the clothes and accessories they wore. Lace, latex, very tight corsets, jackets and suits with visible stitching.
In fact, Margiela Artisanal SS24 couture show was one of the most beautiful during the recent Haute Couture Week in Paris. Definitely, Galliano knows what couture is. Yet, it was 100% Galliano and almost no trace of Margiela, if not for a few tabi shoes or the four-corner white-stitch of the logo.

A brief background

In 2011, Dior ousted John Galliano after a video emerged in which the British designer hurled anti-Semitic insults at a couple in a Paris bar. So, following the scandal, he was fired from his own fashion label, majority-owned by Dior.
In 2014, OTB – Only The Brave, Renzo Rosso’s company – appointed John Galliano as designer for Maison Margiela.
The news, to us, sounded like a joke. For instance, it was like asking Dolce & Gabbana to design Helmut Lang. Two different visions, opposite perspectives, indeed. Both should exist in the fashion industry, providing a diverse representation. Yet, each one under the creative guidance of a designer who can allow a specific sensibility to emerge.

Implications for the fashion industry

Of course, in the hands of Galliano, Margiela took a different turn. And now, with this Haute Couture skilful show, Gallianification of Margiela has been fully completed. Therefore, a reputable designer becomes the creative director of another label, taking just a few hints from the original designer. And in the end, celebrates his own vision of fashion, but under another brand name.

Perhaps, a revenge for Galliano in a field deprived of meaning. However, we wonder, what’s the point of this? Why doesn’t Galliano do Galliano under his own brand name? Why do they need to transform Margiela into what Margiela is not?

In the grand spectacle of Galliano’s creative takeover at Maison Margiela, the Margiela Artisanal SS24 couture show provided a poignant chapter in the ongoing saga of Gallianification. As the brand transforms under Galliano’s unmistakable vision, we’re left contemplating the broader implications for the fashion industry. In fact, this issue regards all the luxury brands in which the creative founder is no longer in charge. Specifically, we suffer for Margiela because we adore it, the original… Martin Margiela. In fact, we carried MM6 in our boutique in the past.

Decoding Margiela’s Gallianification unveils an absurd reality: an industry once celebrated for its idiosyncrasy now seems an empty vessel awaiting the next lucrative trend. Simply a game. But where is the fashion industry heading with these games?

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