fashion industry

PFW FW25: What heritage brands teach us about identity and timelessness

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How heritage brands stay relevant without radical reinvention


As Paris Fashion Week FW25 comes to a close, we reflect on what heritage brands reveal about identity and timelessness.

One of the most striking aspects of this season was the renewed sense of identity—a quality that had been diluted in recent years, causing brands to lose what once set them apart. Now, more than ever, brands seem to require flexible, inspired approaches rather than rigid strategies or merely marketing-driven narratives.

Equally noteworthy was the restrained nature of many shows, with a noticeable reduction in unnecessary excess. While this could suggest a shift towards more mindful practices, it reflects financial caution in uncertain times rather than a commitment to sustainability. Indeed, sustainability appeared to have lost its place as a key marketing tool.

Heritage brands: Let’s talk style, not just designers


Chanel remained unmistakably Chanel, proving that heritage brands can thrive with a strong design team. Despite the absence of a creative director, the collection was impeccably conceived, weaving in the signature themes so dear to Madame Coco. (Watch the show here). For heritage houses, perhaps the real question is: should the focus be on the designer at the helm, or on the enduring style and craftsmanship?
That said, it will be interesting to see what Mathieu Blazy’s vision brings next spring.

Miu Miu, on the other hand, was quintessentially Miuccia. Feminine yet subversive, the collection channelled 1950s elegance with a rebellious edge—pointed bras, handbags carried in the crook of the arm, vintage-inspired accessories, and bold gold jewellery pieces. What could be more authentic than Miuccia Prada staying true to her vision for Miu Miu? Feminine, chic, and unmistakably hers—a strong, clear signature. (Watch the show here). However, we want to believe the furs are faux.

Final thoughts


In conclusion, heritage brands have shown that timelessness is not about radical reinvention but about staying true to a distinct identity. Chanel demonstrated that strong design can uphold a brand’s legacy, even without a star creative director, while Miu Miu reaffirmed the power of a designer with a clear, unwavering vision.

Perhaps this season signals a shift—not towards relentless reinvention, but towards refinement, consistency, and a deeper understanding of what makes a brand unique. In a landscape often dominated by marketing gimmicks, fashion may be rediscovering the value of authenticity.

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Paris Fashion Week FW25/26: a reaffirmation of identity

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Is identity boring or a thoughtful choice?


At Paris Fashion Week FW25/26, collections seemed to centre on a reaffirmation of brand identity. With the era of ‘Balenciagitis’—where many creative directors seemed infected by a uniform aesthetic—behind us, designers have returned to their distinct visions. But for heritage maisons, does this emphasis on identity feel stagnant, or is it a conscious, thoughtful approach?

Paris Fashion Week FW25/26: A stronger focus on identity 


One of the most anticipated debuts this season was Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford. Ackermann is a designer who understands his craft. In January 2023, he delivered a remarkable interpretation of Jean Paul Gaultier, demonstrating his ability to modernise a collection while staying true to the essence of a maison.

In fact, his debut at Tom Ford was no exception. The formula? Identity with audacity. A bold, commanding collection with a distinct brand DNA, executed with deep respect for the house’s legacy. The result? A resounding success—one that seems to have won over everyone, Tom Ford included. (Watch the show here).

On a similar note, Julian Klausner handled Dries Van Noten transition with a deep respect for its codes, proving that identity can be both preserved and evolved. (Watch the show here).

Chloé embraced modern romantic hippy-chic, with its iconic silk blouses and chiffon dresses catering to women of all ages. Chemena Kamali revitalised the brand after Gabriela Hearst, though we can only hope the furs were faux. (Watch the show here).

The standout moment


Our favourite? Sarah Burton’s debut at Givenchy—an absolutely breathtaking collection that felt like a breath of fresh air. A masterclass in blending the maison’s heritage, paying due respect to the founder while adding refined modernity, it exuded pure femininity through exquisite tailoring. Marvellous! (Watch the show here).

Where the PFW FW25/26 fell short


While Alexander McQueen was an improvement over the previous Spring/Summer show, it lacked strong pathos. Again, one wonders: should all brands strive for mass appeal? That was never the essence of McQueen.

Ann Demeulemeester? A disappointment.

And then, Valentino—or Valentucci? Or GVucci? A chaotic blend that echoed the marché aux puces aesthetic so characteristic of Alessandro Michele. Staging Valentino in a public toilet—an unsubtle metaphor for the house’s current trajectory? Once again, Michele seems to show little reverence for the houses he designs for—except for his own ego. Why entrust a storied maison to a costume designer? Given how things ended at Gucci, does this approach make any sense?

Final thoughts on Paris Fashion Week FW25/26: identity matters


In conclusion, Paris Fashion Week FW25/26 reaffirmed one key theme: identity matters. But what is the relationship between costume and identity? And how do you balance timelessness with continuous innovation?

We recently came across a post by 1Granary lamenting the lack of innovation in luxury brands. Yet, within the industry, many—including us—value the concept of timelessness over relentless reinvention. When the original founder or creative visionary is no longer at the helm, what remains? The brand’s DNA.

Reinforcing identity isn’t stagnation—it’s preservation of meaning. A brand’s DNA is its essence, the very thing thatmakes it unique. In an era obsessed with novelty, timelessness and slowness are values to protect—not obstacles to overcome.

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Indiscriminate discounts: a policy spinning out of control

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Camera Showroom Milano takes a stand to regulate discounts


We’ve often discussed the issue of indiscriminate discounts, a practice that has spiralled out of control. What was once a strategic tool for end-of-season sales has become a year-round phenomenon, undermining both economic and environmental sustainability.

Sales, in their current form, are a short-sighted strategy that fuels compulsive consumer behaviour and perpetuates a toxic production cycle. The fashion industry is a significant contributor to the triple planetary crisis: climate change, biodiversity loss, and pollution. Addressing unsustainable consumption and production patterns is a key focus of the UN’s recent guidelines. Against this backdrop, the initiative by Camera Showroom Milano (CSM) is a welcome step forward. 
Well, finally, we would say…

At first glance, year-round discounts might appear to benefit consumers. However, the reality is far more complex. Not only do they tarnish the image of Made in Italy, as CSM highlights, but they also harm end customers by devaluing products and fostering a culture of price-driven consumption over quality and craftsmanship.

Camera Showroom Milano: tackling indiscriminate discounts


In a recent press release, CSM highlighted how year-round discounts, now a common practice among retailers, are damaging the Made in Italy supply chain. Under current legislation, once retailers purchase goods, they are free to resell them at any price, including steep discounts, throughout the year.

This practice undermines the value of products and the creative effort behind them, while also destabilising the retail sector. It erodes trust between brands and consumers, as products are increasingly seen as disposable rather than desirable.

The issue is particularly acute for Made in Italy products distributed across the European market, where retailers often resell items without adhering to price regulations designed to protect brand integrity. As a result, the window for selling products at full price has shrunk to just two or three months, causing significant harm to individual retailers, the broader sector, and the entire supply chain.

CSM notes that the constant availability of discounts has transformed the purchase of fashion and Made in Italy products from a prestigious, intentional act into a race for the lowest price. This shift not only devalues the products but also undermines the industry’s long-term viability.

Proposed solutions: a call for collective action to end indiscriminate discounts


To address this issue, CSM is advocating for institutional support and the revival of specific agreements between manufacturers and retailers. These agreements would enforce brand-suggested retail prices until the official sales periods in July and January each year.

CSM emphasises the need for clear, shared rules to ensure discount policies align with market dynamics and respect the efforts of all stakeholders, from individual operators to the entire supply chain. Collective action, they argue, is essential to regulate the retail market effectively. This includes fostering collaboration between small and medium-sized manufacturers and sellers, with a focus on commercial loyalty. The goal is to maintain brand-recommended retail prices until the official sales periods begin, creating a fairer and more balanced market environment.

A deeper issue: the role of brands and showrooms


While CSM’s proposal is a step in the right direction, it raises a critical question: Are brands and showrooms prepared to stop demanding increasingly high budgets from retailers?

The current system operates in a vicious cycle (we explored the topic here). Brands set minimum budget requirements for retailers, which often increase season after season. To meet these demands, retailers purchase more than they can sell, leading to overstock. This overstock, in turn, drives up retail prices during the season to offset losses incurred during end-of-season sales.

To clear excess inventory, retailers resort to frequent promotions, markdowns, and discounts, further encouraging overconsumption. This cycle is self-perpetuating, linking production and consumption in a way that harms both the industry and the environment.

Among other things, a special mention should go to online retailers who disregard the rules and do as they please—Italians first and foremost.

Final thoughts on CSM and indiscriminate discounts


In conclusion, year-round sales and promotions are not just a symptom of a broken system; they are a driving force behind it. They encourage compulsive buying and sustain a production model that is both environmentally and economically unsustainable. To promote healthier consumption patterns, we must break this cycle.

While we applaud CSM’s efforts to curb indiscriminate discounts, real change will require a broader shift in the industry. Brands and showrooms must reconsider their demands on retailers, and all stakeholders must work together to create a system that values quality over quantity and sustainability over short-term gains.

Ultimately, the question remains: Is the fashion industry ready to take this bold step towards a more sustainable future?

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Microplastics on Human Health – Part 3: Impact in Fashion

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Microplastics and fashion – Challenges & solutions


This post, the third and final instalment of a three-part series, delves into the impact of microplastics in the fashion industry, exploring both the challenges and potential solutions. It builds on insights from the November 2024 scientific outreach event, Microplastics and Human Health, where experts highlighted the pervasive presence of microplastics and their escalating threat to human health. Cultural Project by Natasha Calandrino Van Kleef; Scientific Direction by Claudio Fenizia. Promoted by the University of Milan and the Municipality of Milan.

You can read the first and second instalments [here] and [here]. Additionally, you can watch the panel discussions [here] and [here].

Now let’s step into our field, fashion.

The impact of microplastics in fashion


Dalia Benefatto from Devalia presented a compelling case on “The Impact of Microplastics in Fashion: Challenges and Solutions.” She advocated for a scientific approach to the circular economy.

The story of synthetic materials began in 1873 when New Yorker John Wesley Hyatt patented celluloid, the first artificial polymer, which revolutionised industries like motion pictures. Without plastic, our world would look vastly different. However, once plastics enter the ocean, they undergo fragmentation, breaking down into increasingly smaller particles that are impossible to recover. These particles eventually become microplastics. Specifically, it is a process that all textile and clothing materials made of synthetic fibres are subjected to.

Today, 85% of textiles and clothing are made from synthetic fibres, with polyester being the most widely used due to its low cost. While fast fashion is often singled out as the primary culprit, the entire fashion industry bears significant responsibility for global microplastic pollution. In fact, polyester is used transversally. 

Polyester, washing clothes, and microplastic shedding


Fast fashion is particularly problematic due to its unsustainable business model, which continuously floods the market with new garments made from synthetic materials. These fabrics shed microplastics in the form of fibres, known as fibrils, which are less than 5mm in size and represent a significant contributor to the global crisis of microplastic pollution.

Every year, over half a million tonnes of fibrils are released into the oceans, primarily during domestic washing. The amount of fibrils released depends on the fabric composition; the higher the synthetic content, the greater the release. A single wash load can disperse hundreds of millions of fibrils into waterways, adding to those released during garment production.

For example, jeans—arguably the most ubiquitous garment—undergo aggressive treatments such as sanding, brushing, and washing with pumice stones. These processes exacerbate the release of fibrils and toxic substances, further intensifying the environmental impact.

Circular economy and behavioural change


To address this crisis, a systemic shift towards a circular economy is urgently needed. It is essential to start new behavioral habits, to prolong the life of materials. This would replace the current disposable model of “extract, produce, and discard” with one that prioritises sharing, repairing, recycling, lending, reusing, reconditioning and renting. However, this transition must be grounded in science.

Scientific knowledge, data, and analysis are essential to creating a virtuous cycle. Starting a common knowledge will also help fight greenwashing—a practice that undermines genuine sustainability efforts. Benefatto emphasises the importance of responsibility over mere sustainability, advocating for measurable actions rather than vague claims.

For instance, a 2018 study revealed that a single wash of synthetic garments can release between 700,000 and 1.5 million plastic fibrils. Scientific bodies have also compared two types of polyester fabrics: one made from continuous filament fibres (with fibres up to 1,000 metres long) and another made from shorter fibres (around 10cm long). The former sheds six times fewer fibrils than the latter, highlighting the importance of structural composition in reducing microplastic pollution.

Practical steps: washing machine filters, fabric choices, and reducing fast fashion’s impact


Consumers can take practical steps to mitigate the impact of microplastics. For example:

  • Washing machine filters: These can capture up to 90% of fibrils, preventing them from entering waterways.
  • Special washing bags: Designed to contain synthetic garments, these bags reduce fibril release during washing.
  • Fabric choices: Opting for natural or cellulose fibres, such as cotton, wool, or lyocell, can significantly reduce microplastic shedding.

Innovative materials like PLA (polylactic acid) fibre, derived from renewable resources such as corn starch or sugarcane, offer biodegradable alternatives. Similarly, biochar, a by-product of biomass, can be used to produce filter fabrics with natural antimicrobial properties.

In the design phase, prioritising durability, recyclability, and compostability is crucial. A cultural shift towards valuing quality over quantity is essential to limit fibril pollution. Ultimately, the market adapts to consumer demand, giving us the power to drive change.

The impact of microplastics in fashion – Final thoughts


Dalia Benefatto’s insights on the impact of microplastics on fashion resonated deeply, shedding light on both the harmful effects of fast fashion and the potential for positive change. Her emphasis on creating a shared scientific knowledge base to combat greenwashing was particularly inspiring.

However, the lack of an overall perspective that connects the dots across various sectors remains a challenge. For instance, Carlo Covini from Lenzing highlighted the confusion surrounding sustainable fabrics. While facing many options, consumers often struggle to identify the best choices. Imagine if clothing were limited to cotton and wool—global resources would quickly deplete. In fact, true sustainability lies in diversifying fabrics and materials, ensuring a balance between innovation and environmental responsibility. It’s not just one fabric.

In conclusion, the fight against microplastic pollution requires collective action, from scientific research to consumer behaviour. By making informed choices and advocating for systemic change, we can reduce the fashion industry’s impact on our planet and our health.

We hope you enjoyed our three-part series—comment below!

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Being a Sustainability Critic: What does it really mean?

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Challenging greenwashing and holding brands accountable


Today, we want to explore the concept of being a sustainability critic: taking a critical approach to sustainability. What does it really mean?  Is being a sustainability critic about disregarding sustainability altogether? Or is it about caring so much that we refuse to be deceived by corporations and their marketing strategies?

Sustainability is often positioned as a key solution to climate change. However, can we really talk about solutions? Climate change is already a harsh, irreversible reality. As Rupert Read puts it, our only choice is to adapt to a world of climate extremes.

The point of being a sustainability critic


Being a sustainability critic means looking beyond surface-level claims and greenwashing to assess the real impact of brands, policies, and movements. It’s about:

1. Questioning corporate narratives
2. Exposing contradictions
3. Holding companies accountable for their environmental and social claims

A sustainability critic doesn’t just applaud “eco-friendly” initiatives. Instead, they ask: Is this truly sustainable, or just another marketing ploy? This attitude demands curiosity, scepticism, and a commitment to transparency.

Sustainability vs. corporate reality


Yesterday morning, we came across this news from The Business of Fashion:

“Patagonia, Nike and others have tried but failed to eliminate labour exploitation at key Taiwanese suppliers.”

“Brands like Patagonia, Nike and Lululemon have been working for years to address the exploitation of migrant workers at key fabric suppliers in Taiwan. Despite some progress, the issue has persisted.”

But isn’t Patagonia the brand that truly cares about sustainability? At least, that’s what they claim. Yet, time and again, the gap between corporate promises and actual practices is enormous. In fact, their actions simply do not match their words.

The truth about sustainable fashion


This is exactly why we need sustainability critics. It’s about cutting through corporate rhetoric, challenging greenwashing, and demanding real ethical standards.

The truth is simple:

• There is no sustainability in overproduction.

• There is no sustainability in exploited labour.

And for brands that continue to push their sustainable lies, there’s only one response: this is greenwashing.

Final thoughts


In conclusion, being a sustainability critic — or taking a critical approach to sustainability — is essential to avoiding deception by brands and corporations. In fact, if we want genuine sustainability in fashion, we must move beyond empty promises and hold brands accountable. It’s time to rethink the way we consume and demand radical transparency.

And you? Do you consider yourself a sustainability critic? Share your thoughts in the comments!

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