Europe’s Textile Crisis Shows the Limits of Recycling in the Age of Ultra-Fast Fashion
Recycling is a key component for achieving a sustainable fashion industry, yet the rise of fast and ultra-fast fashion has pushed Europe’s textile recycling sector to the breaking point. In fact, a harsh truth has emerged: recycling low-cost, mass-produced garments is often both economically and environmentally unfeasible.
Recently, the European Recycling Industries’ Confederation (EuRIC) and Municipal Waste Europe (MWE) have issued an urgent call for financial and legislative support. Specifically, they warned that the current structure of fast fashion renders much of the textile waste essentially “unrecyclable.”
Ultra-fast fashion relies on cheaply produced, low-quality materials, which often combine synthetic and natural fibres. These blends complicate recycling, as separating materials is time-intensive and costly. Most concerning is the sheer volume of waste generated by the fast fashion industry, which overwhelms recycling facilities. At the same time, low-quality textiles degrade quickly, making them unsuitable for reuse.
This unsustainable model has led to a crisis, with EU textile exports plummeting and warehouses overflowing with unsellable items that may soon face incineration.
EuRIC and MWE argue that recycling alone cannot solve the issue of textile waste in Europe. Instead, the industry needs policy reform to address the root cause. Therefore, they urge EU policymakers to lower VAT for textile repair and reuse while introducing taxes on new petroleum-based materials to discourage fast fashion production. Also, the organisations call for stricter regulations to help curb waste from the outset. For instace, mandatory minimum recycled content for all new textiles.
In conclusion, without immediate intervention, Europe’s textile recycling industry could face severe setbacks, undermining its climate goals and threatening the future of sustainable fashion. Prioritising waste reduction, ethical production, and quality over quantity is essential to preserving both the industry – and the planet.
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