ethicalfashion

Protests in Bangladesh

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How the fashion industry leads workers to starvation


Large protests are happening in Bangladesh, where garment workers demand higher wages. Following clashes with the police, who used tear gas and rubber bullets, four textile workers have died. Sadly, they paid with their own life the demand for better pay.

Our thoughts are with the families of those who lost their lives, the dozens who ended up in hospitals and also those who still protest for a decent living.

The fashion industry & the poverty wage


Low wages made Bangladesh the second largest clothing exporter after China, developing a huge industry for the country. There are about four million garment workers, mostly women, whose wages are the lowest in the world. In addition, the inflation and the devaluation of the taka against the US dollar (30% from the beginning of 2023) created unsustainable conditions for workers.

According to the government, monthly pay would rise by 56,25% to 12,500 taka – 114 USD. Basically, they want to keep workers under the poverty line. But workers want more: “Prices are skyrocketing. We are just demanding decent pay. We will not return to work until our demands are met,” one of the protesters said. Isn’t it understandable? In fact, workers ask for 208 USD a month in pay.

Fashion and workers’ rights


Specifically, garment workers in Bangladesh make clothes for large groups such as H&M, Zara, Gap, and Levi’s. Brands like Next, Asos, New Look and Inditex (Zara) say they support workers. Which is good, but words aren’t enough; they must pay more! That’s how they can back workers for real.

About ten years after the Rana Plaza collapse, garment factories packed in a nine-story building, but nothing has changed. The fashion industry learned no lesson. Beyond the beautiful facades or (fake) ethical practices, exploitation is still the most convenient pattern for capitalism to make a high profit. And so famous brands make profits on the backs of workers.

Protests for a decent living


Now let’s also consider the millions of consumers who, every day, go shopping for brands whose manufacturing scheme is well-known. Perhaps they don’t mind workers’ rights since they aren’t directly affected. Do low prices attract your attention? Do you think before purchasing a new piece of clothing whose price is so cheap it couldn’t cover any manufacturing cost? And do you feel okay supporting a vision of the world based on forced labour?

Protests are going on in Bangladesh, demanding a decent living. People lost lives, and many others are starving. It seems that brands do not question their sourcing and manufacturing policy. But what about you: how can you close your eyes when shopping?

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What Is Sustainability? A Comprehensive Definition by Vito Mancuso

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Exploring ethics, nature and accountability


What is sustainability? Think about an all-embracing definition, a few words we can extend to any field. To our whole life, indeed. In our search for a more sustainable lifestyle, Prof. Vito Mancuso offered some food for thought.

In a tv show called “Quante storie”, a must-see programme which is all about books, Prof. Vito Mancuso, a theologist and philosopher, introduced his latest essay titled “Etica per i giorni difficili” (Ethics for difficult days).

Addressing the need for shared ethics, he gave some guidance on the importance of preserving nature. Precisely, he said: “Custodire la natura è un’ assunzione di responsabilità.”

Literally:

“Preserving nature is an assumption of responsibility.”

Vito Mancuso

We believe we can extend this definition into the discussion on sustainable matters. Likewise, we can assert: “Sustainability is an assumption of responsibility.” Put more simply, “Sustainability is about taking responsibility.”

And taking responsibility means, in other words, holding ourselves accountable.

However, holding ourselves accountable goes beyond economics, marketing, or personal power. In fact, it’s about ethics.
And so, from a marketing perspective, can we agree to associate the word sustainable with big corporations? From the perspective of profit, can we allow well-known brands to sponsor sustainable events? Or set up sustainable fashion shows with the same rule as non-sustainable ones?

On an ethical level, we cannot agree.

From an ethical perspective, taking money from big corporations won’t lead to real change. But holding ourselves accountable doesn’t mean being perfect in our effort to make a change. It means taking seriously the choice we made and being consistent with it. Fundamentally, it means changing the way we operate, and being very careful who we partner with.

Mainstream sustainability vs ethics


So, what is the mainstream sustainability movement proposing? Green capitalism as the enlightened path. Specifically, it encourages us to shift towards an eco-green-sustainable model while continuing to consume as much as we did so far.

Of course, it won’t work. Either they are missing the point, or ethics isn’t their concern–nor is sustainability.

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The Land Of Waste

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How the fashion industry dumps the problem into Africa


A land of waste describes the unbelievable amount of discarded clothing that is regularly dumped in Africa.. About three million pieces of clothing every year. Endless layers of textiles form mountains high of fashion waste polluting the land and waters. A terrifying sight that illustrates the destruction the Western world inflicts on nature, known as waste colonialism.

Fast-fashion waste recycling?


People often believe that clothes discarded into the recycling container (the yellow ones here in Italy) are reused. Usually, charities are in charge of these garments. But fast fashion items are of poor quality. So, large quantities can’t be resold and eventually end up in a massive toxic blob in Africa.

Y2K: the overproduction era


Since 2000, global clothing production has doubled, but the quality has steadily decreased. As we’ve already discussed, brands accelerated the overproduction model. At the same time, they promoted overconsumption, kickstarting the toxic cycle.
Brands overproduce up to 40% every season.

Waste shipped to Africa: waste colonialism, the western solution


In West Africa, everyday cargos arrive full of dirty clothes, and most get there in unwearable condition. In Ghana, a dumping ground for textiles, they call them the “dead white man’s clothes.” Moreover, Western garments are so cheap that local manufacturers can’t compete (source ABC.net.au) with their original textiles.

The city of Accra has to find a place to dispose of 160 tons of textile waste every day! Liz Ricketts, a circular economy advocate, has spent about ten years documenting what happens in Ghana.During the monsoon season, the heavy rains drag the textiles into the sea. Then they return to the shore buried in the sand.

In Accra, there’s no room left to throw away clothing.

ABC News: the land of waste


We recommend to watch this video by ABC News:

Video by ABC News


Waste colonialism & the land of waste


If waste is the byproduct of a fashion industry based on an overproduction pattern, consumers play an active part, too. Indeed, they contribute to this environmental disaster with their consumption habits. Perhaps years ago, information was lacking, but now it’s everywhere! Everyone can understand the downside of cheap clothing.

There are people who are underpaid to make cheap clothes and, at the end of the cycle, other people who earn 4 dollars a day collecting fashion waste. Slaves, indeed!

The western world’s solution was to ship the problem to Africa–waste colinialism. But that has resulted in a land of waste, which we are leaving to the coming generations.

Fashion brands are responsible, but so we are if we don’t change our consumption habits.

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When Will You Start Sales? Never!

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Sales and sustainability don’t play well together–and why it matters


When people ask: when will you start sales? We reply: never. No sales here! Buy less but better over the season! And it’s easy to understand the point: other than an illusory short-term fix, sales don’t solve any problem. Intentionally neglecting the big picture, they contribute to exacerbating the exploitative system.

The need to change seems a shared belief. And it’s interesting to hear people in the fashion industry and consumers, too, talking about the urgency of it.

After all, it’s nice to keep playing the same game expecting something to change. Isn’t it?

The un-sustainability of sales


We all participate in the exploitation game traced by an economic system that led the world to destruction. But we just prefer to ignore it.

Flooded by overproduction, the market is exploding. And the majority of these garments are made by people who cannot afford to cover their basic needs. Fashion production is so excessive that it has a tremendous impact on the planet in terms of carbon emissions, waste and labour abuse. Retailers, for their part, inflate prices in anticipation of the inevitable question: “When will you start sales?”
But this system is not sustainable. So it’s time to make different choices, even if unpopular choices.

The sustainable solution


If everyone had a fair wage, we wouldn’t feel the need to constantly lower prices—a practice that has eroded quality standards. Clothing and accessories could maintain a more reasonable price range year-round. ‘Less but better’ would be the solution. Now, that’s sustainable fashion!

But the news says retailers are optimistic on sales. Optimistic? For what? Is a bargain worth a burning planet?

As a small retailer operating for over 17 years, we don’t want to be part of this global exploitation. Indeed we chose to cut the quantity we used to buy. Our fashion selection is essential, in a limited number of pieces, plus a made-to-order service. That is to ensure unicity and be as much as possible sustainable.

There’s a brilliant quote we found on the web:

“We ignore truths for temporary happiness.”

Unknown


In our contemporay context, sales are a way to ignore the truth. But difficult moments need radical choices.
So why don’t you stop being part of this game?

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Why Good Design First?

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Designers’ responsibility to provide the answer for a sustainable future


Good design is everything because that is the starting point for any serious discussion about fashion. And even more when the analysis touches on sustainability.

Indeed, whenever we meet students and interns who want to know more about fashion and sustainability, first, we show them brands that focus on exceptional design. Then we can talk about the rest. And not because we aren’t involved in sustainability!

Good design first


So, why design first? Because it’s the core element where you find answers as it reflects a creative vision which gives sense to a product. Designers who have something to say translate their ideas into their products by creating beautiful pieces that are meaningful and timeless. They carefully select materials, choose to recycle fabrics or use particular hand-dyed processes and artisanal workings. They value their employees because an ethical approach is part of their philosophy.
So their garments are rich. Indeed, you can see there’s a lot of substance in them.

Why good design
From Marc Le Bihan showroom in Milano


If brands lack design, there’s no point in developing entire collections. Therefore, sustainability matters are solved quickly: we don’t need them.

When designers have nothing to say, you will see archives looted, stolen ideas and tons of marketing labels and catchphrases. Sometimes you may even see nice garments but without a soul. Perhaps these products are easier to sell, but they have no value. So, from a sustainable viewpoint, no reason to exist.

Indeed good design is the core principle, the reason to exist, and the deep meaning of a fashion brand. Furthermore, in a phase of transition and profound change like the time we are living, designers have the moral responsibility to make meaningful products. And so, quality made to last, no overproduction, no push to overconsume, and decent wages.

The task of designers is to trace new pathways while respecting people and the planet. Sustainability is embedded in their patterns, and their designs must provide answers for an evolved lifestyle #formodernhumans

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