ethicalfashion

What is sustainability?

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Vito Mancuso: ethics, nature and accountability

What is sustainability? Think about an all-embracing definition, a few words we can extend to any field. To our whole life, indeed. In our search for a more sustainable lifestyle, Prof. Vito Mancuso offered some food for thought.

In a tv show called “Quante storie”, a must-see programme which is all about books, Prof. Vito Mancuso, a theologist and philosopher, introduced his latest essay titled “Etica per i giorni difficili” (Ethics for difficult days).

Addressing the need for shared ethics, he gave some guidance on the importance of preserving nature. Precisely, he said: “Custodire la natura è un’ assunzione di responsabilità.”

Literally:

“Preserving nature is an assumption of responsibility.”

Vito Mancuso

We believe we can extend this definition into the discussion on sustainable matters. Likewise, we can affirm: “Sustainability is an assumption of responsibility.”

And taking responsibility means, in other words, holding ourselves accountable.

But holding ourselves accountable goes beyond economics, marketing, or personal power. In fact, it’s about ethics.
And so, from a marketing perspective, can we agree to pair the word sustainable with big corporations? From the perspective of profit, can we allow well-known brands to sponsor sustainable events? Or set up sustainable fashion shows with the same rule as non-sustainable ones?

On an ethical level, we cannot.

From an ethical perspective, taking money from big corporations won’t lead to real change.
But holding ourselves accountable doesn’t mean being perfect in our effort to make a change. It means taking seriously the choice we made and being consistent with it. Fundamentally, it means changing the way we operate, and being very careful who we partner with.

Mainstream sustainability vs ethics

So, what is the mainstream sustainability movement proposing? Green capitalism is the enlightened way. Specifically, they tell us to shift towards an eco-green-sustainable model in order to keep up consuming as much as we did so far.

Of course, it won’t work. Either they are missing the point, or ethics isn’t their concern. And neither is sustainability.

What is sustainability? Read More »

The land of waste

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How the fashion industry dumps the problem into Africa

A land of waste: the unbelievable amount of discarded clothing dumped in Africa regularly. About three million pieces of clothing every year. Endless layers of textiles form mountains high of fashion waste polluting the land and waters. A terrifying sight which shows the destruction the western world perpetrates towards nature.

Fast-fashion waste recycling?

People think the clothes discarded into the recycling container (the yellow one here in Italy) are reused. Usually, charities are in charge of these garments. But fast fashion items have poor quality. So, in the end, large quantities can’t be resold and end up in a massive toxic blob in Africa.

Y2K: the overproduction era

Since 2000 global clothing production has doubled, but the quality is lower and lower. As we already addressed, brands accelerated the overproduction model. At the same time, they promoted overconsumption, kicking off the toxic cycle.
Brands overproduce up to 40% every season.

Waste shipped to Africa: the western solution!

In west Africa, everyday cargos arrive full of dirty clothes, and most get there in unwearable condition. In Ghana, a dumping ground for textiles, they call them the “dead white man’s clothes.” Moreover, Western garments are so cheap that local manufacturers can’t compete (source ABC.net.au).

The city of Accra has to find a place to dispose of 160 tons of textile waste every day! Liz Ricketts, a circular economy advocate, has spent about ten years documenting what happens in Ghana.
During the monsoon season, the heavy rains drag the textiles into the sea. Then they return to the shore buried in the sand.

In Accra, there’s no room left to throw away clothing.

We recommend to watch this video by ABC News:

Video by ABC News

If waste is the byproduct of a fashion industry based on an overproduction pattern, consumers play an active part, too. Indeed, they contribute to this environmental disaster with their consumption habits. Perhaps years ago, information was lacking, but now it’s everywhere! Everyone can understand the downside of cheap clothing.

There are people underpaid to make cheap clothes and, at the end of the cycle, people who make 4 dollars per day to collect fashion waste. Slaves indeed!

The western world’s solution was to ship the problem to Africa! But that has generated a land of waste, which we leave to the coming generations.

Fashion brands are responsible, but so we are if we don’t change consumption habits.

The land of waste Read More »

When will you start sales? Never!

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Sales and sustainability don’t play well together. Here’s why!

When people ask: when will you start sales? – We reply: never. No sales here! Buy less but better over the season!
And it’s easy to understand the point. Other than an illusory short-term fix, sales don’t solve any problem. Intentionally neglecting the big picture, they contribute to exacerbating the exploitative system.

The need to change seems a shared belief. And it’s interesting to hear people in the fashion industry and consumers, too, talking about the urgency of it.

After all, it’s nice to keep playing the same game expecting something to change! Isn’t it?

The un-sustainability of sales

We all participate in the exploitation game traced by an economic system that led the world to destruction. But we just prefer to ignore it.

Flooded by overproduction, the market is exploding. And the majority of these garments are made by people who cannot afford to cover their basic needs. Fashion production is so excessive that it has a tremendous impact on the planet in terms of carbon emissions, waste and labour abuse. Retailers, for their part, inflate prices to get ready for the question: “When will you start sales?”
This is not sustainable. So it’s time to make different choices, even if unpopular.

The sustainable solution

If everyone had a proper wage, we wouldn’t feel the need to lower prices more and more. A practice that wiped out quality standards. Clothing and accessories would have a more reasonable price range throughout the year. “Less but better” would be the solution. Sustainable fashion, indeed!

But the news says retailers are optimistic. Optimistic? For what? Is a bargain worth a burning planet?

As a small retailer operating for over 17 years, we don’t want to be part of this global exploitation. Indeed we chose to cut the quantity we used to buy. Our fashion selection is essential, in a limited number of pieces, plus a made-to-order service. That is to grant unicity and be as much as possible sustainable.

There’s a brilliant quote we found on the web:

“We ignore truths for temporary happiness.”

Unknown

Sales are a way to ignore the truth. But difficult moments need radical choices.
So why don’t you stop being part of this game?

When will you start sales? Never! Read More »

Why good design first?

Designers’ responsibility to provide the answer

Good design is everything because that is the starting point for any serious discussion about fashion. And even more when the analysis touches on sustainability.

Indeed, whenever we meet students and interns who want to know more about fashion and sustainability, first, we show them brands that focus on exceptional design. Then we can talk about the rest. And not because we aren’t involved in sustainability!

Good design first

So, why design first? Because it’s the core element where you find answers as it reflects a creative vision which gives sense to a product.
Designers who have something to say translate their ideas into their products by creating beautiful pieces that are meaningful and timeless. They carefully select materials, choose to recycle fabrics or use particular hand-dyed processes and artisanal workings. They value their employees because an ethical approach is part of their philosophy.
So their garments are rich. Indeed, you can see there’s a lot of substance in them.

Why good design
From Marc Le Bihan showroom in Milano

If brands lack design, there’s no point in developing whole collections. Therefore, sustainability matters are solved quickly: we don’t need them.

When designers have nothing to say, you will see archives looted, stolen ideas and tons of marketing labels and catchphrases. Sometimes you may even see nice garments but without a soul. Perhaps these products are easier to sell, but they have no value. So, from a sustainable viewpoint, no reason to exist.

Indeed good design is the core principle, the reason to exist, and the deep meaning of a fashion brand. Furthermore, in a phase of transition and profound change like the time we are living, designers have the moral responsibility to make meaningful products. And so, quality made to last, no overproduction, and no push to overconsume, decent wages.

The designers’ task is to trace new pathways by respecting people and the planet. Sustainability embeds in their pattern. And their designs must provide answers for an evolved lifestyle #formodernhumans

Why good design first? Read More »

Dear sustainable brands: are you consistent?

Sustainable brands VS consistency

Dear sustainable brands, let’s make a point on consistency.

Consistency is fundamental for building trust, so it should be for sustainable brands. Also because they cover themselves with an ethical patina that makes them appear better than the others. But, on the contrary, it seems that these new ethical brands have a problem with it.

Their purpose is to make a change. But if so, it’s not clear why they still follow outdated systems. Or they try to reach success by partnering with channels that have nothing to do with sustainability.

The point on consistency

Sustainable brands must be consistent with their message.
Do you agree? So, the question is: do they want to make a change for real?
If that is their goal, why do they sell their low-impact ethically-made garments through retailers that collect almost every designer on planet earth?

Isn’t it a matter of consistency?
These retailers sell huge quantities of clothing and accessories. Therefore, their business isn’t sustainable. Even if they proudly show a sustainable section, as most of them do. Which makes you understand the power of marketing and the trick behind sustainability.

If consistency was a fundamental value for them, they would find other ways to sell their products. But they all dream of being sold by the same old big groups. And so, they want to change, but not really.

Sustainability is a promise no one can keep, but still, everyone wants to sell. Ethical marketing, if not supported by proper choices and actions, is just smoke in the eyes. In other words, it is greenwashing.

Dear sustainable brands, you cannot change the world by playing the old game. Forget the status quo if you want to change for real. If you are seriously committed, you need to craft a new strategy. You’ll change the world with new patterns, new rules, and a new language.

So, if you want to be trusted, change the system, not only your marketing!

Dear sustainable brands: are you consistent? Read More »