ethicalfashion

Being a Sustainability Critic: What does it really mean?

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Challenging greenwashing and holding brands accountable


Today, we want to explore the concept of being a sustainability critic: taking a critical approach to sustainability. What does it really mean?  Is being a sustainability critic about disregarding sustainability altogether? Or is it about caring so much that we refuse to be deceived by corporations and their marketing strategies?

Sustainability is often positioned as a key solution to climate change. However, can we really talk about solutions? Climate change is already a harsh, irreversible reality. As Rupert Read puts it, our only choice is to adapt to a world of climate extremes.

The point of being a sustainability critic


Being a sustainability critic means looking beyond surface-level claims and greenwashing to assess the real impact of brands, policies, and movements. It’s about:

1. Questioning corporate narratives
2. Exposing contradictions
3. Holding companies accountable for their environmental and social claims

A sustainability critic doesn’t just applaud “eco-friendly” initiatives. Instead, they ask: Is this truly sustainable, or just another marketing ploy? This attitude demands curiosity, scepticism, and a commitment to transparency.

Sustainability vs. corporate reality


Yesterday morning, we came across this news from The Business of Fashion:

“Patagonia, Nike and others have tried but failed to eliminate labour exploitation at key Taiwanese suppliers.”

“Brands like Patagonia, Nike and Lululemon have been working for years to address the exploitation of migrant workers at key fabric suppliers in Taiwan. Despite some progress, the issue has persisted.”

But isn’t Patagonia the brand that truly cares about sustainability? At least, that’s what they claim. Yet, time and again, the gap between corporate promises and actual practices is enormous. In fact, their actions simply do not match their words.

The truth about sustainable fashion


This is exactly why we need sustainability critics. It’s about cutting through corporate rhetoric, challenging greenwashing, and demanding real ethical standards.

The truth is simple:

• There is no sustainability in overproduction.

• There is no sustainability in exploited labour.

And for brands that continue to push their sustainable lies, there’s only one response: this is greenwashing.

Final thoughts


In conclusion, being a sustainability critic — or taking a critical approach to sustainability — is essential to avoiding deception by brands and corporations. In fact, if we want genuine sustainability in fashion, we must move beyond empty promises and hold brands accountable. It’s time to rethink the way we consume and demand radical transparency.

And you? Do you consider yourself a sustainability critic? Share your thoughts in the comments!

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Repairing Your Clothes: the Future of Fashion

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What happens in a society that makes common sense revolutionary?


In a world where speed defines everything – fast living, fast fashion, and a buy-and-discard mentality – repairing your clothes, taking the time to mend a tear or patch a hole feels almost rebellious. It’s an act of care for your clothes and a gesture of respect toward the environment. But how did we get here? Why does something as simple as repairing clothes, once considered common sense, now feel like a radical act?

Repairing garments isn’t new. It’s been a fundamental part of human life for centuries. Clothing was once valued, made to last, and cared for. People took pride in their ability to prolong the life of what they owned. This wasn’t revolutionary – it was practical. Yet, today, what was once common practice has become radical. What happened?

The shift from repair to replace


The answer lies in the seismic shift from a culture of quality and longevity to one of cheap, disposable goods. Today’s products, especially in fashion, aren’t designed to last. Quality has become a marketing illusion, displayed in glossy advertising but rarely found in the garments themselves. The reality is quite different: overproduction at the expense of labour and the planet, cheap materials, and an endless cycle of overconsumption.

Industries thrive on our desire for instant gratification, conditioning us to constantly seek something new, rather than appreciating what we already own. Garments are produced so cheaply that we’re encouraged to replace them, not repair them. And even if we wanted to, the poor quality of most clothing makes proper repair nearly impossible. This is no accident – it’s the system at work.

The lost art of clothing repair


In this era of fast fashion and superficiality, the knowledge of how to repair clothing has faded. The skills once passeddown through generations, the time it took to mend and care for garments, have largely disappeared. We’ve lost touch with quality, and with it, the appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship.

But there’s power in reclaiming this lost art. Repairing your own clothes – even through creative acts like embroidery or transforming a garment’s shape – can be a deeply empowering experience. It allows you to take control of your wardrobe, customize your pieces, and express your unique style. In a sea of mass-produced sameness, mending becomes an act of individuality.

Why common sense feels revolutionary now


Why does repairing a simple tear feel revolutionary today? It’s because we’ve lost more than just the skill of mending; we’ve lost touch with the values that made such actions second nature. We’ve become disconnected from a meaningful, sustainable way of living, caught in the rush of overconsumption. We’ve lost our sense of balance with nature and with time itself.

But as the climate crisis deepens, more and more people are beginning to reconsider. A shift is happening. Repairing, recycling, and reusing – what once seemed outdated – are becoming vital again. Common sense is making a comeback, not because it’s trendy, but because it’s necessary. And in a world built on the logic of waste, common sense has become revolutionary.

Choosing quality, choosing repair


The truth is, you can’t repair what was made to be discarded. Fast fashion’s low-quality garments aren’t worth the effort. Choosing to repair your clothes means first choosing to invest in quality, in pieces that are worth mending. It means supporting brands that prioritize craftsmanship and durability over fleeting trends.

In the end, repairing your clothes isn’t just about sustainability – it’s about taking back control of a system that profits from our waste. It’s about returning to common sense, even if that feels revolutionary in today’s world.

🖤 Dive into our latest post, and don’t hesitate to reach out. You can comment here below (just register first), or drop us an email or WhatsApp. We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears.
Let’s start a conversation!

#formodernhumans

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Dior in Court Administration & the Case of Luxury Fashion

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Is luxury fashion sustainable and ethical as they claim?


Dior in court administration highlights the case of luxury fashion, bringing to light a harsh reality. Luxury brands pride themselves on labelling their products and practices as the only sustainable and ethical fashion. But the truth is way far from that high-standard patina. The reality diverges significantly from the beautiful policies displayed on their websites or the public declarations made during panels, events and fashion shows.

Luxury & sustainability: the image of dedication


Let’s take a step back. In 2019, magazines and millennials applauded Maria Grazia Chiuri for explicitly tackling sustainability. “A topic she’s grappled with privately for some time and that’s becoming a growing focus at LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the luxury conglomerate that owns Dior,” you can read on WWD.

The same WWD article notes: “The group recently bought a stake in the Stella McCartney brand, known for its green credentials, and appointed photographer Yann Arthus-Bertrand, founder of the Good Planet foundation, as an advisory board member. LVMH is set to unveil further environmental initiatives at a press conference in Paris on Wednesday.”

The news: Dior in court administration


Now, back to the present day. According to Reuters, “an Italian subsidiary of French luxury giant LVMH that makes Dior-branded handbags was placed under court administration on Monday, after a probe alleged it had subcontracted work to Chinese-owned firms that mistreated workers.”

Italian police conducted inspections at four small suppliers operating in the Milan area. The staff lived and worked “in hygiene and health conditions that are below the minimum required by an ethical approach.” Additionally, the workers had to sleep in the workplace to ensure “manpower available 24 hours a day.” Moreover, safety devices had been removedfrom the machinery to allow faster operation.

The current investigation into labour exploitation within Italy’s fashion supply chains is shattering the immaculate image brands use to describe themselves. Indeed, it exposes the connection between luxury brands and sweatshop conditions.

Specifically, this is the Milan court’s third decision this year regarding pre-emptive measures. In April, they accused Giorgio Armani Operations of inadequate supplier oversight. 

However, Reuters has seen a copy of the latest decision: the court stated that prosecutors alleged the rule violations were not isolated incidents among fashion companies operating in Italy, but rather a systematic issue driven by the pursuit of higher profits.

“It’s not something sporadic that concerns single production lots, but a generalised and consolidated manufacturing method,” the document said.

No comment from LVMH. Armani stated that it has always implemented controls to “minimize abuses in the supply chain.” Fun, isn’t it? Is a 2/3€ per hour pay a minimisation of abuses?

More data on investigations here:

Behind the Seams: Fashion Industry & Forced Labour

And here:

Workers’ Rights in the Fashion Industry

The case of luxury fashion


In conclusion, let’s repeat this concept once again: fast fashion and luxury fashion are two faces of the same coin. For different budgets, but operate through the same exploitative pattern of overproduction.

Is luxury fashion sustainable and ethical, as they claim? Not at all. It’s a marketing manipulation. Mass-produced garments made in sweatshop conditions are neither sustainable nor ethical. High-end brands sell a dream, an illusion of luxe. And, If quality is an illusion crafted by marketing, so is luxury. What once was known as luxury fashion isn’t really luxury anymore.

Indeed, luxury fashion has nothing to do with true luxury.

The absence of moral fabric within the industry is evident, and consumers demonstrate disregard by ignoring this issue despite the wealth of available information.

The point is: does it still make sense to support these brands?

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Workers’ Rights in the Fashion Industry

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A reflection on the International Workers’ Day


As today we commemorate International Workers’ Day once again, it prompts us to pause and reflect on the state of workers’ rights within the fashion industry. International Workers’ Day is synonymous with Labour Day, annual holidays to celebrate the achievements of workers.

Some facts about workers’ rights in the fashion industry:


1. “Luxury brands show poor efforts to reduce forced labour.” (source KnowTheChain). Specifically, KnowTheChain evaluated fashion companies’ adherence to International Labour Organization standards in their supply chain, establishment of internal responsibilities to address forced labour risks, support for worker empowerment, and implementation of programs to address forced labour allegations. So, companies received scores ranging from zero to 100, with the average fashion company scoring 21. Luxury companies rank second lowest in average score among all sub-sectors, making them particularly flagrant offenders.
In short, among the luxury companies assessed:
LVMH: 6 out of 100
Prada: 9 out of 100
Kering: 23 out of 100
Only seven out of 20 disclosed the complete first tier of their suppliers, including names and addresses.

2. Alviero Martini: under investigation for starving wages.

3. Giorgio Armani Operations: put into receivership for labour exploitation.  Workers in Chinese-run workshops paid 2-3 euros/hour, judges say. Probe finds migrant workers eating, and sleeping in factories.

4. Zara and H&M‘s cotton suppliers: involved in land grabbing, illegal deforestation and human rights violations (source Earthsight). Also, this revelation is particularly alarming as it implicates Better Cotton, a certified sustainable cotton label.

5. Low wages made Bangladesh the second largest clothing exporter after China, developing a huge industry for the country. There are about four million garment workers, mostly women, whose wages are the lowest in the world. In addition, the inflation and the devaluation of the taka against the US dollar (30% from the beginning of 2023) created unsustainable conditions for workers. Specifically, garment workers in Bangladesh make clothes for large groups such as H&M, Zara, Gap, Levi’s, Next, Asos, and New Look.

6. After the Jaba Garmindo factory bankruptcy in Indonesia, 2,000 Indonesian garment workers have fought for the $5.5 million legally owed in severance pay since 2015. The workers made clothes for Uniqlo and German fashion brand s.Oliver, among others. (source cleanclothes.org)

7. China is the biggest exporter of ready-made clothes, monopolising nearly 40% of the global garment industry. Driving China’s $187 billion garment trade are over 10 million garment workers. People who toil under oppressive and exploitative working conditions, mostly for high street brands. …While foreign brands’ business is booming, China bans the fundamental human right of workers to form and join independent trade unions. Driving a race to the bottom on wages and working conditions, brands expect low production prices and a compliant workforce and governments allow this along with factory owners out of fear of losing foreign business. Exploiting this arrangement is the Asian retail giant, UNIQLO. (source waronwant.org).

Conclusion: what about consumers’ role?


While we commemorate International Workers’ Day, we’re compelled to confront a shameful truth about workers’ rights in the fashion industry. In fact, workers are often regarded as nothing more than commodities that brands can exploit for their own profit. 

The absence of moral fabric within the industry is evident, as is the disregard shown by consumers who choose to ignore this issue despite the wealth of available information.

But why do people ignore human rights and still support these brands through their consumption choices?

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A Conversation With Aurora

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Reading Time: 4 minutes

Embracing the up-and-coming wave of fashion designers


As we embrace the up-and-coming wave of fashion designers, we are thrilled to share our conversation with Aurora. Her first name doubles as her brand name (Aurora De Matteis); a young woman walking the fashion industry with a polite demeanor and a clear sense of an ethically run business.

We first met Aurora a couple of years ago at a fashion exhibition in the heart of Milano. Her universe, small, focused, and well-crafted, conveyed emotion to us. So we kept in touch until, finally, we placed an order. Indeed, we are leaders in uncovering talented designers committed to exceptional design, premium materials, and ethical practices.

Read our conversation with Aurora to find out more about the brand!

Aurora – the conversation


• How did your passion for fashion begin? What is your background?
I always thought I wanted to do this in life because I always loved creating something with my hands. Actually, my mother passed down to me a certain passion; she taught me how to crochet when I was little. In fact, I used to make handmade crochet earrings. I’m passionate about handicrafts and artisanal work. I love the world of graphics, but after high school, I enrolled in Secoli Institute to get a technical background in fashion. I did well in pattern making, learning to make a whole garment. My passion for manual work led me to take a knitting course recently. Learning new skills stimulates me; in this sense, I never stop.

• What inspired you to start your slow fashion brand, and what values do you aim to promote through your designs?
After graduating from fashion school, I could work for big companies where I would have focused on just one specific thing, like being a pattern designer. But I like to explore, research materials, so, despite all the difficulties, I chose to launch my own brand. Mine is a brand that believes in slow fashion, which means attention to fabrics and well-made garments, things big brands often overlook. But, above all, it’s a brand that aims to convey the value of the time needed to create a handmade garment in a small workshop. Time, quality, and ethics are values I believe in.

Image of Aurora Spring-Summer 24 collection
Aurora Spring-Summer 24 collection

• What is your vision of style? Can you share insights about your design philosophy and how it aligns with the concept of slow fashion?
“Less is more” is a concept resonating deep within me. A quote from Mies van Der Rohe explains it all: “Please, do not confuse simple with easy, there is a big difference. I love simplicity because of its clarity, not because of its ease or for other reasons. To achieve clarity we must simplify practically everything. It’s hard work. You have to fight, and fight, and fight.” Indeed, this process of distilling from complexity to essentiality is what I find interesting.

Minimalism reconnects to my pattern-making studies, garment construction. Specifically, making it distinctive in terms of construction. Instead of prints or decorations, I prefer to create colour blocks because I focus on lines and shapes. However, this design concept perfectly aligns with my vision of slow fashion because it allows me to emphasize the quality and longevity of the garment through a timeless style. ‘What’s in fashion this year?’ has always puzzled me. Who decides that? Today, talking about fashion can be chilling, with unwearable clothes and exorbitant prices.

• How do you ensure sustainability and ethical practices in your production process?
Many stop at the labels, but natural doesn’t mean sustainable. For instance, see natural viscose. It may be natural, but it has a significant environmental impact. I focus more on quality materials. And I only work with suppliers who don’t impose high minimums. Moreover, I produce without waste in a small artisanal workshop, ensuring ethical and sustainable manufacturing because I make limited quantities. I myself sew in my workshop in Turin. Everything is made in Italy, in small batches. I am against overproduction. Indeed, the concept of limited quantities is crucial to limit our impact on the environment.

• How do you evaluate conversations about sustainability?
Superficial. In fact, I don’t say that my brand is sustainable, I demonstrate it through actions. Often I’m asked: ‘Is this all you have?’ Yes, exactly: a capsule collection, thoughtful and well-made.

• What challenges have you faced in establishing your brand within the competitive fashion industry?
The showrooms have asked me to do things from their point of view without considering my project. They are seeking the product, not the idea. Just to sell more. My way of working was almost belittled. It shows a certain lack of attention from industry operators because if you want a massive production, you don’t go to an emerging brand.

• Do you think enough space is given to young people in Italy?
Unfortunately, Italy is an old country, doesn’t give space to young people.

After reviewing her Spring-Summer 24 collection, we were impressed by the precise cuts and fresh take on fashion. Also, we discovered each other within a philosophy that felt familiar: a shared vision of design and meaning. So, we hope you enjoyed our conversation with Aurora. In the end, isn’t it time to give space to the new generation of creatives?

So stay tuned to discover more about Aurora designs #formodernhumans

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