Explorations

The Exception To The Rule

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Unique perspectives in the fashion realm


They say every rule has its exception. And, of course, we couldn’t escape. In fact, just a few days ago, we wrote that fashion maisons whose original designer has left, lose their meaning. In other words, fashion brands lose their essence once the original designer is no longer at the helm.

Indeed, this is not the case with Valentino, which stands as the exception to the rule. Since the duo Piccioli – Chiuri has split from co-designing the brand, Mr Pierpaolo Piccioli didn’t miss a single beat. Though, we cannot say the same about Chiuri’s work.

From the moment he went solo, Piccioli’s sense of design has been a celebration of the Valentino codes. He carefully paid respect to the founder’s work, elaborating the brand DNA while adding a touch of modernity. Elegance has certainly not been lost.

On July 15, we saw the Fall/Winter 21-22 Valentino couture show, streamlined from Venice’s Gaggiandre, Arsenale. What better occasion to find a valid exception to the above rule. The show was a dialogue between fashion and art, presented from a magnificent set-up.

If fashion is not art, it is true that both forms of expression have many aspects in common: creativity, the vital and foundational element that shapes the entire process. But also time, experimentation, and skilled hands. All these are crucial elements needed to reach a perfect realization.

For the show, Pierpaolo Piccioli collaborated with 17 painters, and the final result was sublime. The overlapping of bold colours was a joy for the eye, a breath of fresh air. The fluid silhouettes and clean-cut lines, the game of form and colours, showed a modern way to make couture.

Impeccable tailoring and know-how. Effortless beauty and elegance. An expression of art, and a real celebration of couture.
Bravo!

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The State Of Fashion & The Couture Revamp

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Redefining a changing industry: innovation and tradition


Top brands are rediscovering and relaunching their couture collections. And eliminating the diffusion lines, as Valentino did with Red Valentino, for instance.

The couture orientation could be a re-emerged desire for well-done items among tons of junk clothing. A strategy to clean up a collapsed market, focusing on their original identities. Or the research for a more sustainable model. Both possibilities are worthy.

In fashion, we should do like the music bands: can we imagine Queen without Freddy Mercury? or Nirvana without Kurt Cobain? For instance, why should Margiela make sense designed by someone who has his opposite vision? Although John Galliano is one of the greatest couturiers, Margiela is not Margiela anymore. What about Balenciaga? or Gucci? Brands lost their identity, and now it’s game over.

Couture and heritage


In todays’ panorama, we believe historical maisons should repurpose archival pieces in a modern version to keep alive the designer’s heritage. And no, we are not referring to the so-called “modernity” of the recently relaunched Balenciaga couture line. Was the pigeon toe an example of modernity? We don’t think so.

As conceived today, couture and brands in general, when the designer of the maison has passed away or left, lose their meaning. Although there is a vague inspiration coming from the archives, we see very little respect for the creativity and work of the original designer. Instead, a certain arrogance of the newcomers prevails, aiming to show their own vision while disfiguring the original. There are very few exceptions.
So conceived, fashion is simply a way to make money out of the brand name legacy, in addition to an ego game. All the magic is gone.

Since overproduction is killing our planet, couture and demi-couture collections offer a more controlled and limited production model. The higher quality wouldn’t hurt either.

The return of the “atelier” with a unique selection of worthy pieces and custom-made items is the opposite of the mass distribution model we saw flourishing till now. They would offer value and sustainability.

And maybe we’d see the rebirth of fashion.

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Selection vs Quantity

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The power of thoughful choices


Carefully picking out the most suitable items is an interesting point: selection vs quantity. Talking about selection, especially when people are accustomed to a supermarket mentality, is not an easy task.

A while ago, a lady who used to come to our boutique asked to try on an item. When we said her size was sold-out, she replied:
“My size is sold out because you ordered only a few pieces.”

Also, she said it with an ironic grin on her lips, as she intended to belittle our work.

Accidentally and unbeknownst to her, she had hit the point: selecting a few pieces is not a demerit. On the contrary, we firmly believe it is a plus! It grants you uniqueness, which is far better than being the clone of many other people.

Selection vs quantity? We choose selection. In fact, we do this intentionally. To order a few pieces by choosing those of value, the special ones, is a deliberate act. We are at the opposite of the fast-fashion concept. Disposable goods have never been for us. Moreover, the idea of fashion as a supermarket makes us shudder.

A selection of meaningful garments #formodernhumans


Years ago, we were already on this path, and recent events have made this direction even clearer. Choosing an evolved style–and lifestyle–means we don’t need too many things, only the ones that truly make a difference.

We help you create your unique, distinctive individual style. We do it operating with respect for people and the planet. It’s a vision for a better world. It is not about quantity. Of course, it is not.

We cannot please everyone, and we do not appeal to a mass audience. But we can please people like us, a niche of like-minded individuals who share the same values.

It’s a selection of meaningful garments for modern humans.

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The Cultural Element

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Sustainability and the contradictions of contemporary culture


This is when you go to an event dedicated to sustainability, and one of the first things you hear is a journalist stating that we cannot consume less!

“During the pandemic, we saw what happened–everything came to a halt. It’s clear that we cannot consume less.”

We looked at each other perplexed: “Are we in the right place?” If this is the viewpoint of someone invited as a speaker to discuss sustainability, imagine the mindset of the average consumer.

We could not engage with those people over there, but we take the opportunity to explain our thoughts here. In fact, we do believe the opposite, it’s quite evident.

Consuming less is one of the most effective ways to save our planet.

Consumption and capitalism


It is necessary to find a new economic model to replace capitalism, which has been revealed to be outdated and unsuccessful. Exponential growth is absolutely inconceivable and even harmful now.

Although a new economic model is a fundamental step, we cannot wait, arms crossed, for something to happen. Sooner or later, the gods of economics and politics will come up with a brilliant idea, a valid substitute. At least, we hope they do.

But in the meantime, maintaining a sustainable level of consumption is crucial. Becoming aware of what we consume and how we consume must be at the core of our actions.

When it comes to changing the way we live, eat, travel, or shop, culture plays a central role.

Culture comes through education. In the past, we had the excuse that sources, books, and information weren’t accessible. Now we can find whatever we need.

Knowing more about environmental issues and climate change. Discovering more about ethical work and production modes. Understanding materials, craftsmanship, quality.

Educating ourselves to become conscious consumers is what we can actively do to enhance our lifestyle and change for the better.

It’s about improving our well-being rather than accumulating things and money with the outcome of waste and exploitation.

Learning more is free, and often it just takes a click!

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Que Fantastica Esta Fiesta

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Raffaella Carrà: a timeless icon and positive role model


It was impossible for us not to dedicate a post to the one and only Raffaella Carrà. She was the heartbeat of our nights out, with the rhythm of her joyful songs! Our beloved icon suddenly left us on July 5th, leaving behind an irreplaceable legacy.

In afct, women owe her a lot. Her humble, empathetic and cheerful personality offered a positive role model inspiring absolute freedom and acceptance. Maybe, for this reason, she became a gay icon too.

Besides, her ironic but never vulgar temper contributed a lot to educate our society, influencing our culture more than any law or government. She taught us her values such as kindness, inclusivity, openness, while always working persistently.

A great artist, icon and positive role model


These are some of her quotes:

“To me, the world is not made of gay and straight but of creatures.”

“I am in favor of stepchild adoption, I too grew up with two women.”

“I grew up without a father. He was wealthy but too playboy, and my mother divorced in 1945. I never wanted to get married, and it always pissed me off not being able to adopt children without the obligation of this ring.”

Furthermore, she was the first to unveil her belly button in 1969 on the tv screen, wearing a crop top on bell-bottoms. Her innate elegance allowed her to convey messages about female agency through her sex-positive songs. And perhaps that was the point: her elegance. She was never gross whatever she did, whatever she wore.

Also, this is relevant to the recent controversy about some female Italian singers. They state that they were criticized for their clothing, while men, instead, are free to wear whatever they want.
If this can be true, and in fact, it often is, we have to say that those female singers don’t have even a micro tiny trace of the elegance she naturally possessed.

Elegance, this is what they forget. It allows you to express yourself freely in what you wear, sing or say. Elegance is the key, lost in our times.

Thank you, beautiful soul, for the joy you gifted us.
Rest in peace, Raffaella.

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