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The language of design

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Milano Design Week 23: between fashion and design

Milano Design Week offers the opportunity to reflect on the language of design, though we hope it won’t be another chance to spread more sustainability fluff. By the way, Milano seems to be involved in design more than fashion. In fact, the town is full of events, and the atmosphere is lively and engaging.

Design: clothing & objects

Clothes and objects we use daily make up a language – the language of design. Therefore, fashion reflects contemporary culture and tells our story. In other words, fashion is culture. And so is design, of course.
But while design kept a high-level positioning, fashion has lost its allure. From top brands to fast fashion, the industry identifies with a disposable culture or transient trends that lead to compulsive consumption. Now, the image of fashion is cheap, and the industry itself has undermined it. So, the mixture with design adds that patina of class, enhancing fashion portrayal.

However, the modern language of design is all about sustainability. But, we hear catchphrases which are empty claims. Their goal is marketing, selling more. And since the topic is popular, many people jump on the bandwagon in order to have the possibility to reach a wider audience.

Back to the core: the language of design

Now back to the core: the language of design.
What matters to us? Good design with an ethical approach. Certainly, people should be active thinkers and not just consumers. But designers must do their job. Creating original pieces, artisanal rather than standardised mass products. Good design means caring about the materials, workings, production chain, and people – understanding the impact on the planet. It means caring about the whole creative and productive process.

Sustainable design, recycling, and upcycling – as part of a circular economy, are designer’s work. So, do that!

In the end, the dialogue between fashion and design implies shared values. But the outcome of this reciprocal contamination must bring a tangible change, not empty slogans. The planet needs action!

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Why clothes?

And can we drive change through fashion?

Some people may wonder why clothes. And also if clothes can be a tool to promote change. We can find a brilliant response in Virginia Woolf’s words. Here is a quote from Orlando:

“Vain trifles as they seem, clothes have, they say, more important offices than to merely keep us warm. They change our view of the world and the world’s view of us.”

Virginia Woolf

Some authors are like anchors we can hold onto as they offer tremendously beautiful insights. Their significant perspectives help us better understand ourselves and life.

About clothes

Clothes change people’s perceptions of us. Indeed, they are part of our non-verbal language. So through them, we express our personality and our worldview.

At the same time, clothes change our view of the world. The influence is mutual. So, by making specific choices, we can have an impact. And not only on our style and image, meaning on what people can see of us at first glance. But also regarding our consciousness, so on a more profound level affirming who we are and what kind of world we want.

In that sense, we can do a lot to change. Indeed, we aren’t passive consumers but active thinkers. And by making better choices, we change the world.

So, do you wonder why clothes? And if clothes can be a tool of change?
Yes! We believe so because we do not just dress to have a better image and gain self-confidence. But by making thoughtful choices about the garments we choose to wear, we reveal that we care for people and the planet. Therefore, our thoughts, words and style correspond to our actions.

In other words, through style we bring in our contribution to change for the better.

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The curve of understanding

How long does it take to open our eyes?

The case of plastic traces the curve of understanding by showing the conflict between convenience and value.
Plastic was invented in 1920. Around 1960 humans started using disposable plastic profusely. One of the greatest inventions ever. You could use cutlery, plates and cups and throw them away! Likewise, we could use plastic bags and toss them. Well, that’s what disposable means. It just got out of hand, or we didn’t realise that there’s a certain number of people inhabiting planet earth, and we aren’t so good at multiplication.

‘Buy – consume – toss’
The perfect innovation for everyday life, and no one considered any side effects. For about 50 years, at least. Till one day, we realised the oceans are full of disposable plastic. And that by 2050, there will be more plastic than fish in the oceans!

So, it took about 60 years to notice that single-use plastic was polluting oceans. Finally, the EU banned plastic in 2021, but the damage is done.
Sixty years to open our eyes. And even now that is known, people do not worry much about that.

Learning the lesson
Will it take us that long for technology too? Since we are kindly invited to change a device every year. Or for furniture? Which, of course, is cheap but made to self-destruct within the shortest time possible.
Or for clothing, because ‘the industry of cheap’ is flourishing! People want more! ‘And who cares if I wear it for less than a season? I’ll throw it away!’

How can a different approach resonate in a world made of beautiful facades or people who don’t care?

It will resonate with a tiny niche of active thinkers who want to make the change. Because they care, they can make a difference.

#formodernhumans

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The freedom of buying

Is that real freedom?

“If we don’t become active thinkers, the only freedom we have is the freedom of buying – the freedom to consume.”

We cannot cite the lawyer’s name who said this on a tv programme, but her insight sticks in our minds. She touched on a point that controls every layer of our life.

Take time to reflect
For our society, we have value as consumers. That is the logic behind her statement. We are consumers, and we believe consuming is a gained freedom. And as consumers, we are targeted by credit cards, hospitals, hotels, retailers and so on. Plus, web companies and social media.

This mechanism has been highlighted by the pandemic too.
‘Please, get well and go back consuming.’ Otherwise, the world stops, because modern life revolves 90% around consumption.

Consumption, per se, is not wrong. What is wrong is the blind direction it has taken, the voracious capability of eating up everything. That ignorant way of devouring each product or service without any evaluation. Just because it’s advertised, the brand is popular. Because it’s new, it will work (so throw away the old one).

Overconsumption and the freedom of buying

We over-consume blindly, to the point of harming our planet. Which means that we, humans, aren’t really smart.
Brands, we believe we use them, but the opposite is true. They use us. Our freedom is limited to our consumption.

Active thinkers and thoughtful consuming
Active thinkers consider the long haul, so they consider their actions within a long-term vision. It’s fundamental to become conscious about what we consume and how. Unless we want to discover the consequences of our actions once the damage is a reality.

Now more than ever, we need active thinkers. People who think before consuming. Yes, think. That’s the greatest freedom we have.

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Not for all – Arrogance or honesty?

When we say that our work is not for everyone, it shouldn’t be seen as a sign of arrogance. On the contrary, if you ponder a little on the true meaning, you will perceive that it denotes a genuine and realistic approach.

Can we truly please everyone? No, obviously, we cannot.
To illustrate, if you usually buy fast fashion, you would never check out our selection. If you like to show off logo emblazoned garments, we are not for you. If you are a passive consumer, perhaps you will not interact with us.

Pleasing everyone is a naive goal, and though it’s impossible to accomplish, the downside of trying is that it generates a bazaar of elements. A fragmented and undefined proposal where everything is possible, but nothing stands out. Because there is no soul. No clarity.
The truth is that you have to be honest to say that what you do is not for everyone.

Over about twenty-five years in the fashion field, we saw the rise and fall of the system. A fast-paced environment in which profit and marketing took over creativity. And ultimately, it led to the exploitation of people and the planet. This system now needs a new air, something more, beyond that glossy facade. Creative visions supported by a conscious approach.

We are a drop in the ocean, but we are trying to bring a different viewpoint, providing a deeper meaning to fashion, and rediscovering its true beauty. And therefore evolve to the next level.

Our selection and thoughts are for those who appreciate the value of unconventional work that falls outside an imposed system. We aim to interact with individuals who are not passive consumers but active thinkers. Those who want to be informed because they are not stuck in the past or constrained by pointless rules but constantly evolving.

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The society of fake needs

Human needs: are they real or fake needs?
Apart from the basic ones – essential to grant a decent life – human needs involve things that should improve our lives.

But, century after century, individuals have become needier. Or, to put it another way, we have just become spoiled. And if we add a high dose of ignorant and selfish behaviour, easy to detect in our society, the big picture becomes worrying.

We live for instant satisfaction, avoiding caring about the effects of our actions. Among those side effects are issues like global warming and garbage, so much that droughts have increased and the oceans are full of plastic.

Whether it is a sign of malaise or a sign of stupidity, this behaviour isn’t healthy. Therefore, some questions arise: do we really need all the products we consume? Or are ads just building fake needs to make money?

Advertising makes people believe so many things, and they buy without questioning. For instance, according to adv, we need vitamin supplements (all packed in plastic boxes). But the only thing we need is balanced nutrition, unless there are health problems, of course.
They make us believe we need expensive anti-wrinkles, even if nothing will erase a single wrinkle. Only plastic surgery can do that, another one of the crazy modern needs. And, it seems we cannot miss things like water added with hyaluronic acid or yoga pants. It’s a mystery how people could have practised yoga so far!

Also, they make us believe we need a new smartphone every year, so congrats on Chris Evans, who kept the same iPhone for seven years. Hey, seven years! We thought we were the only ones!

Do we need all those things advertising tries to sell?

Surely not. Indeed we built a society of fake needs. And it is the byproduct of a capitalist model, which puts a cage around us. But, at the same time, we talk about sustainability. Or a worldview that, if taken seriously, has nothing in common with capitalism.

Now, we should open our eyes and learn to discern rather than believe whatever they say. Being able to discern implies thinking, which is always a good exercise. And learning conscious purchasing and thoughtful consuming habits if we want the human race to continue to exist.

Dedicating particular attention to the impact of our actions on the environment is crucial. It will help us understand that with fake needs, we go nowhere.

Learning to make better choices is the way out.

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Luxury for the rich

A piece written by an American student studying fashion in Milan and interning for suite123, Gavriel Ewart.

Luxury or Ordinary?

When the concept of luxury was first presented to the public, it was reserved for the most wealthy. The brands were producing only the highest quality of items, making it an exclusive opportunity to purchase. One that only the lavish could afford.

Jump forward to the 21st century. Luxury has been made available to not only the high-class and middle-class, but even the low-class are finding ways to purchase. Even if that means sacrificing things they actually need. In this new generation, fitting into a high-status category is more important than saving for your future. The image is everything.

Where do we go from here?

So if every person walking beside you on the street has access to a luxury brand, how are the highest economic class supposed to maintain their importance, aside from driving beside you in their Mercedes Benz.

Financial Freedom

There is a strong polarity that still remains between the high-class and all the others. Time. The middle and lower class might be able to afford a few nice purses, perfume, and some makeup, but those material items are only constructing a window for which they can peek through to see an inch of what the highest-class get to experience. Finally escaping from the fear of bringing your work to a halt. Many business owners within the elite would still bewell off even after taking a break from work for a while to spend time with family.
The middle class and below aren’t granted that privilege. They can buy the material items, but they can’t buy time.

The real luxury

One of the only factors that persists in differentiating the rich from the rest, is the financial freedom to do and go wherever they’d like whenever they’d like. That’s an economic and social ability that can’t be bought on Rodeo Drive.
So I hope you’re enjoying the scent of your Chanel Number 5, but remember that until you alter your perspective you’ll still be on the outside.

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