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Fashion for Unstable Times

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Men’s Fashion Week in an Industry Seeking for Direction

In the past, the concept of fashion for unstable times held a promise of the future. Now, that promise is shrouded in further uncertainty, casting a shadow of disorientation upon an industry that appears adrift.

From Milano, the men’s fashion journey continues in Paris, leaving us to ponder the industry’s quest for new dynamics. In the ever-evolving landscape of the fashion system, the search for direction is more pronounced than ever.

Men’s Milano Fashion Week witnessed a notable return to the classics. However, beyond aesthetics and communication, the undercurrent of turbulence in the industry was tangible.

Fashion industry: a field in profound transformation

Brands are undergoing a thorough reassessment, especially in terms of their structures. Indeed, the fashion world, whether in Milano or Paris, is immersed in a profound transformation. Maybe not even brands comprehend the magnitude of this change. In fact, despite the uncertainty, most of them continue flooding the market with new products, clinging to the notion that quantity begets success.

However, there’s a sense of bewilderment surrounding the industry’s decisions. Take, for instance, the trend of hiring musicians as fashion designers. Yes, we are talking about Pharrell Williams. One cannot help but wonder, what is the message behind appointing a musician as a fashion designer? How does the far-west Vuitton concept align with its traditional narrative?

Among the ambiguity, some designers stand out for their attempts to convey a message through their creations. For instance, Yohji Yamamoto portrays people of a certain age or unique young individual (like Wim Wenders and Hannah O’Neil). It’s as if he’s saying, “This is my audience.” In these subtle nuances lies an attempt to redefine the boundaries of fashion and challenge the conventional norms.

Unstable times: fashion seeking for direction

Whether it’s a return to classics in Milano, avant-garde choices in Paris, or unconventional appointments in the fashion design realm, the industry is in a state of flux. And the search for direction stands out among brands that seem lost.

As we navigate through fashion in unstable times, one thing is clear: change is inevitable. However, the extent of the current change is not yet understood.

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A Shift Towards De-influencing Fashion

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Men’s Milano Fashion Week: A New Direction?

In a notable turn of events, Men’s Milano Fashion Week has revealed a shift towards de-influencing fashion.

During the three-day event, we noticed a decrease in the prominence of social media influencers. This shift appeared to be an attempt to redefine the role of fashion influencers, suggesting a potential change in the industry’s dynamics.

Yet the “pandoro gate,” which involved Chiara Ferragni (read more here), appears to have prompted a reconsideration of brand strategies. So far, whether brands liked influencers or not, they felt compelled to invite them. Now, something has changed.

Distinguishing two influencer categories

Examining the influencer landscape reveals two categories:
1- traditional celebrities who attain fame through acting, music, or wealth (they are just rich, so they automatically ascend to that state).
2- social media celebrities who build their public personas through continuous self-representation. They employ tactics to grow their audience, such as the unnerving follow/unfollow, bots or purchasing followers (even fake accounts).

Historically, the fashion industry maintained ties with conventional celebrities, although navigating their involvement with different rules. However, brands seeking cost-effective alternatives to traditional endorsements contributed to the rise of influencers – social media celebrities. Most importantly, this phenomenon transformed fashion into a carnival show and, in some instances, portrayed it as a vocation for those without substantial merit.

A shift in focus at Men’s Milano Fashion Week

The recent Men’s Milano Fashion Week has showcased a departure from the influencer-dominated scene. Shows like Prada and Dolce & Gabbana shifted the spotlight to traditional celebrities – actors, musicians, and rich kids – sidelining the ubiquitous Instagram influencers. No Instagram fluff!

While the “pandoro gate” may have played a role in brands reassessing their associations, it is evident that the symbiotic relationship with social media influencers is undergoing scrutiny. Brands, once content to profit alongside the “insta-fluff” phenomenon, now appear more discerning.

We have always been curious about why people buy products based on influencer recommendations, knowing they get paid to promote these products. Essentially, people contribute to fund their luxurious lifestyles by purchasing sponsored products. Just why? Aren’t they capable of independent thinking?

De-influencing fashion: the impact on audience dynamics

The strategic decision to feature traditional celebrities over showy influencers at Men’s Milano Fashion Week revealed a perceptible transformation in the event’s ambience. The shift towards established figures lent an air of sophistication to the audience, aiming to elevate the overall atmosphere. Also, it paved the way for a revitalised focus on the garments themselves.

With the spotlight redirected from ostentatious personalities to the garments, the runway presentations assumed a more cultured and nuanced tone.

A deliberate departure from the influencer-centric narrative would contribute to reviving an appreciation for the sartorial value and creativity that often take a backseat amid the fluff of social media-driven communication.

But is this shift towards de-influencing fashion a calculated, long-term strategy or a momentary pivot? Will it extend to Women’s Fashion Week?

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Top Brands vs Fast Fashion

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Searching for Value in an Oversaturated Fashion Industry

In a world where fashion has become synonymous with rapid turnover and mass production, the line between top brands vs fast fashion is blurred. But, in this oversaturated market, where can we find value?

Top brands and fast fashion are two faces of the same coin. Indeed, they offer the same worldview, just for different pockets. The reason is quite simple: by operating within the economic framework of capitalism, fashion has become a matter of stock exchange more than creativity. In fact, it has shifted its focus from creativity and innovation to financial transactions. Transforming itself into a game of numbers, budgets and unsustainable growth.

Over the last two decades, top brands pursued the logic of perpetual renewal, a characteristic of fast fashion brands. Consequently, overproduction has spiraled out of control, leading to the evident consequences we witness today. And blurring the line between the two segments.

Fast fashion unsustainable & unethical

Fast fashion is unsustainable and unethical. It capitalises on a business model that disregards environmental impacts and exploits individuals, perpetuating modern-day slavery. While it offers the latest trends and affordable prices, this exploitative approach comes at a significant cost to both people and the planet.

Top brands & luxury products

Interestingly, the narrative surrounding top brands isn’t all about substance. By following fast fashion timing and constant renewal of their products, top brands have stopped offering value. In fact, expensive doesn’t always correspond to a higher quality. Specifically, the correlation between exorbitant prices and superior quality is not guaranteed. Luxury products, often draped in prestigious branding, can often be nothing more than low-quality items benefitting from their labels’ reputation. Easy to sell right because of the brand. Quality is an illusion crafted by marketing.

In short, fast fashion results in poor quality, disposable items, and exploitative production systems. But, by following the same exploitative system, luxury clothing does not equate to superior quality.

A beacon of style: niche fashion

Among this very crowded fashion panorama, can we still find meaningful products?

In this labyrinth of fashion excess, there’s a beacon of hope: niche fashion. Within the cluttered panorama of mainstream brands and fast fashion giants, niche fashion emerges as a ray of authenticity through meaningful garments.

Niche fashion, unlike its mass-produced counterparts, operates on a different wavelength. It focuses on craftsmanship and uniqueness. By valuing quality over quantity, these brands avoid the pitfalls of overproduction and unethical practices.

These brands pride themselves on transparency, showcasing the stories behind their products, the sourcing of materials, and the artisans behind the scenes. In a world inundated with generic trends, niche fashion stands tall, offering individuals the chance to express themselves authentically through their clothing choices.

Most importantly, these brands contribute to a shift in consumer mentality. They advocate for conscious consumption, encouraging individuals to invest in fewer, higher-quality pieces that align with their values rather than succumbing to fleeting trends.

As consumers, it’s crucial to reevaluate our relationship with fashion. The power lies in our choices. Supporting niche fashion means endorsing a more sustainable, ethical, and genuine approach to style.

Within the fashion industry, navigating through the competing narratives of fast fashion vs top brands, our pursuit of value and meaning directs us towards niche fashion. In this space, we uncover a deeper connection between the garments we choose, the stories they tell, and their impact on our world.

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Understanding The Fashion System

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The Truth Behind Sales & Markdowns

Understanding the fashion system involves exposing the hidden environmental costs of frequent fashion promotions and sales. Aiming for sustainability in the fashion industry is critical to saving the planet.

Sales used to occur at the end of the season only. But now, promotions and markdowns are frequent. What’s changed in the fashion industry? Since fashion became finance and brands became properties of corporations, profit has been the only logic guiding the fashion industry. Corporations use overproduction to maximise profit; sales are part of the game.

The negative impact of fashion sales

Sales apparently are a way to get a deal on clothing and other products. But, they contribute to a bigger problem in our society: the value of clothing and the labour that goes into making it is not recognised. In other words, sales devalued product quality and labour.

Sales perpetuate an unsustainable production cycle that harms our planet. To support this profit-driven system, they fuel impulsive buying, encouraging people to buy things they don’t need. Additionally, when brands play a pricing game with their products, it can call into question their credibility. On the one hand, brands praise the value of their products. But a month later, this value has halved. Who are they kidding?

However, overconsumption and overproduction are two faces of the same coin: capitalism, an economic system that values profits above all else. 

Despite the apparent fascination, thinking individuals should consider the detrimental impact of sales on the planet and people. With overproduction and fashion waste visible from space, the fashion industry significantly contributes to climate crises, biodiversity loss, and environmental degradation. In fact, the recent UN guidelines underscore the urgent need to combat unsustainable consumption patterns.

The call is clear: curbing overconsumption. To do so, we must acknowledge sales and frequent markdowns as symptoms of a profit-oriented system that harms our environment. But, to find solutions, first, we must grasp how the fashion system operates.

The fashion system: who does it work?

Brands pressure retailers to meet escalating budget demands each season (minimum amount or quantity). That leads to excessive purchasing beyond actual retailers’ demand. To ensure profits for brands, retailers buy more than they can sell.
Excess inventory drives up retail prices because high quantities of merchandise are sold only during sales. So, higher prices throughout the season partially cover this loss.
Lastly, overstock forces retailers into a cycle of frequent discounts and promotions, aiming to encourage more purchases from end consumers.

This interconnected cycle of consumption and production cannot be rectified by addressing only one aspect without considering the other. In this context, we cannot trust brands who preach sustainable fashion.

Solutions: sustainable fashion practices

Sustainable fashion practices for retailers: Stop Sales! 

• Reduce the quantities of clothing and accessories ordered per season. If brands do not accept lower orders, do not buy from them. By preventing overstock, retailers can maintain fair prices throughout the year. Both retailers and consumers would benefit from this.
• Refrain from excessive discount events like Black Fridays, promotions, and sales. Customers are no longer willing to buy at the true value of a garment.
• Educate consumers to prioritise quality over quantity, investing in durable, timeless pieces and understanding the value behind their purchases.

What Consumers Can Do: be agents of change!

• Don’t contribute to the climate crisis. Change the system: make conscious choices. 
• Buy less, much less during the season. Take only quality items that complement your existing wardrobe; reuse clothes.
• Avoid trendy items; embrace a timeless aesthetic that transcends fleeting fashion. Remember, quality endures – good design transcends trends. It doesn’t have an expiry date.

Ultimately, sales aren’t sustainable. Understanding the fashion system, how brands’ pressure on retailers drives over-purchasing, inflates retail prices, prompting endless discounts, and addressing both consumption and overproduction, is vital for impactful change.

At suite123, we prioritise good design, timeless fashion, and conscious consumption. And we care about people and the planet. Therefore, we do not endorse sales. 

Let’s make conscious decisions about what we consume, nurturing a sustainable world for generations to come.

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Wishing a Meaningful End of the Year

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On Gratitude, Style, and a Journey of ‘Less but Better’ in Fashion

As the curtains draw close on this year’s fashion journey, we pause to extend our deepest gratitude and wish you a meaningful end of the year.

Since 2006, our belief in an alternative fashion vision has been unwavering. This year, we’ve upheld our commitment to curate meaningful selections of independent designers, striving for quality over quantity and value over noise. No decoys, no endless proposals of garments, and no carnival barkers to fill you with pointless stuff. Among a fashion industry deafened by commercial noise, always clamouring for attention, our silent dedication stands strong.

Acknowledging our revolutionary business model in an industry flattened by business logic, we thank you for another year together. Your belief in our unconventional approach fuels our revolution. So, we extend our gratitude to our incredible audience, visionary designers, and cherished partners.

Celebrating niche designers

To the creative minds behind each stitch, sketch, and design that enriched our boutique selection, your work has left us endlessly inspired. Thank you for sharing your creativity with us.
And thank you to the commercial partners who treated us with care and humanity.

Gratitude for your support

To every person who embraced our ethos and supported our boutique, you’ve been the backbone of our work. Your trust in our vision has allowed us to exist and offer an alternative narrative.

Above all, we are grateful to each person who purchased from us: we exist thanks to you. So, thank you for embracing our dedication to niche fashion and a ‘less but better’ lifestyle. Your purchases fuel our passion and purpose.

To our blog readers, followers, and contributors, your engagement elevates our discussions, making us all better humans. Thank you for joining us on this revolutionary journey, where value transcends the conventional norms.
Thank you for sharing your moments and thoughts with us.

As we bid farewell to this year, we do so with hearts full of gratitude. So, thank you for being an integral part of our story, for embracing our ethos, and for allowing us to continue shaping a unique narrative in the world of fashion.

Wishing you a meaningful end of the year! A beautiful conclusion and an even more inspiring beginning to the next.

suite123 team,
Ro, Cri and Thami

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