fashion

See the difference

Being able to see the difference is a way of speaking the same language.

Simplicity goes to the essential. And the essential reveals the real quality.
When design lacks, simplicity is reflected poorly.

Take a basic top, with an essential and clean shape.
Can you see the difference with a garment that apparently looks similar?
Touch it. Can you feel the material?
Wear both. Do you get a sense of the fit?
Can you feel the quality?

Those who are aligned and share our values don’t need many explanations. Indeed, they instantly get the message. We speak the same language. Furthermore, it’s a matter of trust. Indeed, we only select what makes sense.

The ones who are curious sometimes need time to get in. At least, they search for more information. And that point of communication opens a door.

Those who don’t see any difference from one item to another don’t have the sensibility to go further. Thus, they do not align with our vision of the world. The language is not the same. In that case, there is no connection.

But there’s no need to connect with everyone. Or to be liked by everyone.

A small aligned audience is enough.

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Details make the difference

Although it is easy to copy high-fashion items, the difference between designer pieces and fast fashion is tangible.

With fast fashion, you get low-quality materials and poor construction (not to mention labour exploitation). Those elements change the final result completely.

By the way, it is well-known that people don’t see details.

Designer collaborations with fast-fashion chains are a way to make money by reaching a broader audience, which otherwise wouldn’t approach the brand.

But what’s left of the original design?

We still remember the first collaboration Karl Lagerfeld did with H&M. There was a lot of hype, so we decided to try. We bought many pieces, also some lingerie-style reminiscent of Chanel. Whenever we had the occasion, we tried on one or the other, but there was always something wrong. Pull one side, pull the other, no way to make the top, or the dress, seem decent.
The fitting was terrible, stitchings and materials too. We ended up wearing some of those pieces as pyjamas.

Since we bought many items, the total amount was not small. Rethinking of it in terms of worth, did it make sense? Wasn’t it better to buy only one valuable piece, which we could wear for years? Rather than wasting money on several pieces we never wore?

Designer Vs fast fashion

Indeed, this is the trick: reproducing a similar shape doesn’t mean tailoring the same construction. It doesn’t imply the same stitching ability and, definitely, not the same materials.

The quality of materials, together with the knowledge in crafting, are what make a piece of clothing look beautiful. And only expert hands can shape the proper fitting.

Change those ingredients, take out the sartorial touch, and instead of a Chanel imitation, you get a rag. Instead of an oversized dress, you get a garbage bag.

Yes, details make a huge difference.

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The state of fashion & the couture revamp

Top brands are rediscovering and relaunching their couture collections. And eliminating the diffusion lines, as Valentino did with Red Valentino, for instance.

The couture orientation could be a re-emerged desire for well-done items among tons of junk clothing. A strategy to clean up a collapsed market, focusing on their original identities. Or the research for a more sustainable model. Both possibilities are worthy.

In fashion, we should do like the music bands: can we imagine Queen without Freddy Mercury? or Nirvana without Kurt Cobain?
For instance, why should Margiela make sense designed by someone who has his opposite vision? Although John Galliano is one of the greatest couturiers, Margiela is not Margiela anymore.
What about Balenciaga? or Gucci? Brands lost their identity, and now it’s game over.

Couture and heritage

In todays’ panorama, we believe historical Maisons should repurpose archival pieces in a modern version to keep alive the designer’s heritage. And no, we are not referring to the so-called “modernity” of the recently relaunched Balenciaga couture line. Was the pigeon toe an example of modernity? We don’t think so.

As conceived nowadays, couture and brands in general, when the designer of the Maison is dead or has left, lose their meaning.
Although there is a vague inspiration coming from the archives, we see very little respect for the creativity and work of the original designer. Instead, a certain arrogance of the newcomers prevails, aiming to show their own vision while disfiguring the original. There are very few exceptions.
So conceived, fashion is simply a way to make money out of the brand name legacy, in addition to an ego game. All the magic is gone.

Since overproduction is killing our planet, couture and demi-couture collections offer a more controlled and limited production model. The higher quality wouldn’t hurt either.

The return of the “atelier” with a unique selection of worthy pieces and custom-made items is the opposite of the mass distribution model we saw flourishing till now. They would offer value and sustainability.

And maybe we’d see the rebirth of fashion.

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The cultural element

This is when you go to an event dedicated to sustainability, and one of the first things you hear is a journalist stating that we cannot consume less!

“During the pandemic, we saw what happened, everything stopped. It’s clear that we cannot consume less.”

We looked at each other perplexed: “Are we in the right place?”
If this is the viewpoint of someone invited as a speaker to discuss sustainability, imagine the thoughts of the average consumer.

We could not engage with those people over there, but we take the opportunity to explain our thoughts here.
In fact, we do believe the opposite is quite evident.

Consuming less is one of the most effective ways to save our planet.

Sustainability, consumption and capitalism

It is necessary to find a new economic model to replace capitalism, which has been revealed to be outdated and unsuccessful. Exponential growth is absolutely inconceivable and even harmful now.

Although a new economic model is a fundamental step, we cannot wait, arms crossed, for something to happen.
Sooner or later, the gods of economics and politics will come out with a brilliant idea, a valid substitute. At least, we hope they will.

But in the meantime, maintaining a sustainable level of consumption is crucial. To become aware of what we consume and how we consume must be at the core of our actions.

When it comes to changing the way we live, eat, travel, or shop, culture plays a central role.

Culture comes through education. In the past, we had the excuse that sources, books, and information weren’t accessible. Now we can find whatever we need.

Knowing more about environmental issues and climate change. Discovering more about ethical work and production modes. Understanding materials, craftsmanship, quality.

Educating ourselves to become conscious consumers is what we can actively do to enhance our lifestyle and change for the better.

It’s about improving our well-being rather than accumulating things and money with the outcome of waste and exploitation.

Learning more is free, and often it just takes a click!

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Awareness, sustainability and style

How they are connected

Awareness, sustainability and style are somehow connected.

Creating awareness through style is the way we pursue sustainability and make a change. When you become self-aware, you dress in a specific way and pay attention to what you buy, how you act. Indeed, through your style, you communicate a message.

We mainly refer to fashion, although this concept applies to any activity that involves design: technology, furniture, lighting, pottery, architecture, art and all layers of our lifestyle.

You may have seen that sustainable brands are now blooming everywhere, so much that you have the impression of living in a wonderful world. In fact, the attention to this topic is so huge. The sense of caring stands out. But let’s dig deeper into what happens for real.

Sustainable brands

The majority of sustainable brands start their new projects simply to match the current marketing requests. Perhaps they wouldn’t sell or get attention without that magic label.
But there’s no regulation on this matter. And even if some certificates provided by the suppliers may exist, it’s easy to imagine what would happen.

Anyhow, by selecting only one eco-friendly material, they enter the universe of sustainable brands. For sure, someone will applaud them. By the way, the game is so easy that it’s worth giving it a try.

The result is a brand labelled as sustainable that, to be honest, is everything but sustainable. The umpteenth brand on the market, on an overcrowded, overpopulated, almost exploding panorama.

And so, creating awareness through style we can understand more about sustainability.

Now let’s be clear, the best way of being sustainable for a brand that shows a poor design, and doesn’t communicate any concept or any added value, is not doing it. That’s it.

Please, don’t do it. We don’t need more brands. We need better brands.

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