fashion

The Decline Of Luxury

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What happened to the fashion industry?


If you want to understand the events that caused the decline of luxury, we suggest you read ‘Deluxe: How luxury lost its luster’ – a book written by Dana Thomas.

You will discover how fashion from being a family-owned business became a corporate battlefield based on overproduction.
The growth of the new markets – China, Russia, and India. The explosion of counterfeiting goods and labour exploitation.
Then, the rise of fast fashion, internet retailers and the development of a fast-paced globalised system. How luxury products abandoned exclusivity and shifted to the masses. Creating the so-called democratic luxury–which basically is nonsense. Indeed, it shows how far marketing rhetoric can go, playing with words to manipulate people.

The book is a brilliant analysis of the field, investigating the dynamics that led to an auto-implosion of a system. Also, it allowed us to relive the last 30 years of fashion. We assisted many of those events – not by accepting them but by shifting more and more towards niche designers. Finding a kind of refuge in a tiny universe. A thoughtful research in dissonance with the average fashion consumer.

Though we agree with almost everything in Dana Thomas’ book, we do not align with the devotion to some brands. We are afraid they have lost their luster too, so far. Except for Hermes and Cadolle.

Indeed, looking back at the decline of luxury, it has become increasingly difficult to find meaning in fashion maisons. They seem like smoke and mirrors set up to sell perfumes, make-up and bags. Abundantly offered to masses that have no perception beyond the logo and the illusion of being considered rich.

If you still love fashion, you go beyond that fake facade and search for designers who dared to undertake an independent path, expressing an authentic creative vision. In this panorama, the ability to select the right clothing – from an aesthetic and ethical viewpoint – changes the game.

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Details Make The Difference

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Understanding quality fashion versus mass production


Although it is easy to copy high-fashion items, the difference between designer pieces and fast fashion is tangible.

With fast fashion, you get low-quality materials and poor construction, not to mention labour exploitation. Those elements change the final result completely.

By the way, it is well-known that people don’t see details.

Designer collaborations with fast-fashion chains are a way to make money by reaching a broader audience, which otherwise wouldn’t approach the brand. But what’s left of the original design? Does anyone notice that there is nothing of the original designs in those garments?

We still remember the first collaboration Karl Lagerfeld did with H&M. There was a lot of hype, so we decided to try. We bought many pieces, also some lingerie-style reminiscent of Chanel. Whenever we had the occasion, we tried on one or the other, but there was always something wrong. Pull one side, pull the other, no way to make the top, or the dress, seem decent.
The fit was terrible, stitchings and materials too. We ended up wearing some of those pieces as pyjamas.

Since we bought many items, the total amount was not small. Rethinking of it in terms of worth, did it make sense? Wasn’t it better to buy only one valuable piece, which we could wear for years? Rather than wasting money on several pieces we never wore?

Designer vs fast fashion


Indeed, that is the trick: reproducing a similar shape doesn’t mean tailoring the same construction. It doesn’t imply the same stitching ability and, definitely, not the same materials.

The quality of materials, together with the knowledge in crafting, are what make a piece of clothing look beautiful. And only expert hands can shape the proper fitting.

Change those ingredients, take out the sartorial touch, and instead of a Chanel imitation, you get a rag. Instead of an oversized dress, you get a garbage bag.

Yes, details make a huge difference.

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The Cultural Element

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Sustainability and the contradictions of contemporary culture


This is when you go to an event dedicated to sustainability, and one of the first things you hear is a journalist stating that we cannot consume less!

“During the pandemic, we saw what happened–everything came to a halt. It’s clear that we cannot consume less.”

We looked at each other perplexed: “Are we in the right place?” If this is the viewpoint of someone invited as a speaker to discuss sustainability, imagine the mindset of the average consumer.

We could not engage with those people over there, but we take the opportunity to explain our thoughts here. In fact, we do believe the opposite, it’s quite evident.

Consuming less is one of the most effective ways to save our planet.

Consumption and capitalism


It is necessary to find a new economic model to replace capitalism, which has been revealed to be outdated and unsuccessful. Exponential growth is absolutely inconceivable and even harmful now.

Although a new economic model is a fundamental step, we cannot wait, arms crossed, for something to happen. Sooner or later, the gods of economics and politics will come up with a brilliant idea, a valid substitute. At least, we hope they do.

But in the meantime, maintaining a sustainable level of consumption is crucial. Becoming aware of what we consume and how we consume must be at the core of our actions.

When it comes to changing the way we live, eat, travel, or shop, culture plays a central role.

Culture comes through education. In the past, we had the excuse that sources, books, and information weren’t accessible. Now we can find whatever we need.

Knowing more about environmental issues and climate change. Discovering more about ethical work and production modes. Understanding materials, craftsmanship, quality.

Educating ourselves to become conscious consumers is what we can actively do to enhance our lifestyle and change for the better.

It’s about improving our well-being rather than accumulating things and money with the outcome of waste and exploitation.

Learning more is free, and often it just takes a click!

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Awareness, Sustainability And Style

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Exploring the interconnection between conscious living, sustainable choices, and timeless style


Awareness, sustainability and style are deeply interconnected.

Creating awareness through style is the way we pursue sustainability and make a change. When you become self-aware, you dress in a specific way and pay attention to what you buy, and how you act. Indeed, through your style, you communicate a message.

Although we mainly refer to fashion, this concept applies to any field that involves design: technology, furniture, lighting, pottery, architecture, art and all aspects of our lifestyle.

You may have seen that sustainable brands are now blooming everywhere, so much that you have the impression of living in a wonderful world. A world of positive change. In fact, the attention to this topic is immense. The sense of caring stands out. But let’s dig deeper into what happens for real.

Awareness through style: understanding sustainability


The majority of sustainable brands launch their new projects simply to match the current marketing demands. Without that magic label, they wouldn’t sell or gain attention. But there’s no regulation governing this matter. And even if some certificates are provided by the suppliers, it’s easy to imagine how that could be exploited.

Anyhow, by selecting only one eco-friendly material, they enter the universe of sustainable brands. For sure, someone will applaud them. In fact, the game is so easy that it’s worth giving it a try.

The result is a brand labelled as sustainable that, to be honest, is anything but sustainable. It’s the umpteenth brand on a market that’s overcrowded, overpopulated, an almost exploding panorama.

And so, by creating awareness through style, we can gain a deeper understanding of sustainability.

Now let’s be clear: the best way for a brand with poor design, no meaningful concept, or added value to be sustainable is simply not to exist. That’s it.

Please, don’t do it. Please, don’t create another brand. We don’t need more brands; we need better ones.

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