fashion industry

Fashion Week Frontier

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Which medium will survive?


General Fashion Week Playbook

Over several decades, the fashion industry has evolved in so many ways. The female silhouette has transformed from lung crushing corsets and 19th-century victorian buns to genderless streetstyle and avant-garde designs.

Brands have progressed in their method of garment innovation. Yet since the first catwalk show by Lady Duff Gordon in 1901, runway innovations have only advanced in the context of event design. Designers and brands had decided to keep the mediums of runway shows and video promotions completely separate.

Runway shows are so 2019

If we normalize sustainability, why is the mass waste of a fashion show not considered as a drastic factor taking part in unnecessary waste?

After seeing most daily activities turn to the remote medium, why is a runway show one of the only things left behind for deep discussion and debate?
Just because something from the past was so universally enjoyed, doesn’t mean it’s required to remain the same and be the exception to a painfully corrupted system.

The new Fashion Week medium

Fashion premiered through short films

As a matter of fact, we are in a society where creative innovation is crucial. And not only for progressing as a population but for general survival. Aside from the world of technology, the fashion industry hosts some of the most innovative and open-minded thinkers of our lifetime. There is no satisfaction in sedimentary and placid thinking. Consistent change is expected and embraced. So why have we suddenly decided to halt our experiments here? At a time when it is most vital for the progression of an industry.

We are now entering a new industry era of fashion trailers. Short films, produced to showcase a designer’s newest collection in a way that emphasizes the brand image and what future they’d like the consumer to expect.

Of course, many are hesitant about this idea. This era will be the test that determines who are the true lovers of design and creativity. And who participate just to gain social media followers and views.

✍️ A piece written by Gavriel Ewart. An American girl studying fashion and communication at Cattolica university in Milan and interning for suite123

Fashion Week Frontier Read More »

Mass Production or “Mess” Production?

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Quality vs quantity: exploring the impact of mass production on fashion and society


Mass production is an ongoing global phenomenon. Fast-Fashion, is no doubt, all about mass-production as you think.

Yet, even in the luxury world, high brands nowadays are attempting to produce more than ever to reach a broader range of consumers. Why? Because this is how they maximize profit. Speed and cost are everything they now prioritize. Indeed it’s a matter of speed and greed.

Charles Frederic Worth, an English fashion designer in the early 20th century, is today known as the father of Haute Couture.
His dresses required some fifteen yards of fabric and could take three to four hundred hours to embroider. For one client, the dress even needed a team of thirty seamstresses working full time because everything was entirely made by hand.

Yes, the handmade takes time, but do we still find or do the luxury brands still even care about such craftsman values?

Where are the values which we used to appreciate in the past?

Mass or “mess” production?


Luxury brands are now mass-producing their products to market mass consumers. Targeting a larger audience means bigger profits, they believe. However, their mass production has undervalued the noble past of fashion and diminished the true aesthetic.

They care only about profit, no longer the values.
It is such a “mess production” – in fact.

Resizing and reducing, not maximising


By having in mind the idea of Couture as a meaningful business model, brands should produce less and target a smaller audience. Therefore, selecting the right individuals who are capable of appreciating these values.

A rigid selection is what the brands need to do. They need to select whom to create rather than create for everyone.

“Less” is such a big keyword for luxury brands today, but there is something that should be “more”.
Time. More time for quality.
Because quality takes a lot of effort, patience and creativity. And so more time is a must.
Yet, that is the only way the true values of fashion can be revived.

✍️ A piece written by Kotono Sakai, a Japanese girl studying history and fashion at Cattolica University in Milan and interning for suite123

Mass Production or “Mess” Production? Read More »

Luxury For The Rich

Reading Time: 2 minutes

True luxury or just ordinary?


When the concept of luxury was first presented to the public, it was reserved for the most wealthy. The brands were producing only the highest-quality items, making it an exclusive opportunity to purchase. One that only the lavish could afford.

Jump forward to the 21st century. Luxury has been made available to the high-class and middle-class. But even the low-class are finding ways to purchase. Even if that means sacrificing things they actually need. In this new generation, fitting into a high-status category is more important than saving for your future. The image is everything.

So if every person walking beside you on the street has access to a luxury brand, how are the highest economic class supposed to maintain their importance, aside from driving beside you in their Mercedes Benz.

Peeking through the illusion


There is a strong polarity that still remains between the high-class and all the others. Time. The middle and lower class might be able to afford a few nice purses, perfume, and some makeup. But those material items are only constructing a window for which they can peek through to see an inch of what the highest-class get to experience. Finally escaping from the fear of bringing your work to a halt. Many business owners within the elite would still bewell off even after taking a break from work for a while to spend time with family.
The middle class and below aren’t granted that privilege. They can buy the material items, but they can’t buy time.

True luxury: financial freedom and time


One of the only factors that persists in differentiating the rich from the rest, is the financial freedom to do and go wherever they’d like whenever they’d like. That’s an economic and social ability that can’t be bought on Rodeo Drive.
So I hope you’re enjoying the scent of your Chanel Number 5, but remember that until you alter your perspective you’ll still be on the outside.

✍️ A piece written by an American student studying fashion in Milan and interning for suite123, Gavriel Ewart.

Luxury For The Rich Read More »

Luxury Brands & Young Audience

Reading Time: 3 minutes

A new perspective on luxury brands selling to the wrong audience


It is understandable for a business to market their products and services to a specific audience. Rationally, a business has a niche, and they sell to those who will respond to that niche.

It is an entirely different story if a luxury business is promoting to an audience who is undeniably not in the chapter of their lives where the concept of ‘luxury’ is available to them.

Is their strategy from an angle of manipulation?


As many know, during the late adolescent years when the frontal lobe of the brain has not finished developing, the youth are still heavily prone to absorbing information that’s restricted to them. The frontal lobe of the brain is responsible for planning, organizing, initiating, self-awareness, and intensive decision making. 

As a result, all external stimuli easily influence adolescents. Because of this, many businesses, the luxury fashion industry being one of the most convincing, use their advertising, locations, storefront displays, and interior design to lure the young. 

They eventually purchase an overpriced item that fools them into believing they are a part of the glamor status in society. When in reality, they are living with their parents and trying to pass their statistics exams. 

Is their strategy from a logical perspective?


According to Eurostat Statistics Explained, young citizens living in the metropolitan cities of Western Europe get paid an average of 332-2257 euros per month. Considering the fact that a younger employee would typically get paid on the minimum scale, they barely make ends meet. Therefore, it would be irrational to assume that they have a surplus of funds to spend on luxury pieces every month since they are still concerned with food, transportation, and possible rent charges. 

These results provide one clear conclusion, one that is frankly not too surprising. Luxury labels don’t care how the youth purchase their products, as long as they make profits.

Why luxury brands target the young audience

The true reason . . . . 
Profit. Profit with the dismissal of its grand effect on those who have little power to reverse the actions they didn’t know any better but to make. Many know that the youth are one of the most easily influenced generations. Yet all categories of business make a habit of exploiting them from all angles. 

“You don’t have the money to buy this purse? Well here is a high interest rate credit card with no instruction on how to prioritize paying. Do you want an education? Here is a $50,000 Unsubsidized loan that will take over half your life to pay back. Wait, you want a loan to start a business and become successful independently? No we can’t do that for you, you’ll need a hefty credit score to receive that privilege”. 

As said, it’s understandable to sell your products to those attracted to that niche and who can afford it. But the new reality presents that the niche of these companies is predominantly to sell to those who are required to max out their high interest credit cards in order to purchase.
Sadly, this singular purchase is what makes them feel included and accepted into this glamorous facade that people call reality. So don’t allow yourself to sink into the sand of manipulative brands. Don’t let yourself be blinded by the sparkly logos. Shade your eyes with your hands, not your overpriced sunglasses. 

✍️ A piece written by an American student studying fashion in Milan and interning for suite123, Gavriel Ewart.

Luxury Brands & Young Audience Read More »

Wheelchair? Please, Don’t Come!

Reading Time: 4 minutes

Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana: fashion, disability and non-inclusion in the industry


Inclusion and diversity are topics to which we are particularly sensitive. However, we had to overcome a certain discomfort to share this story with you. But if we want to make a change, we have to open up on this matter.

We acknowledged that Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana holds an event, at its second edition, named: “Including Diversity”.

Specifically, on Sept 20th – today – Camera Moda will address diversity and inclusion to promote both matters within the Italian fashion system. If you happen to read about it, you might think the intent is noble and the words powerful. Everything seems on point.

Yes, agreed. If only words truly aligned with actions.

As we wrote in one of our recent posts, inclusion and diversity are much-discussed topics in the fashion field. We call them “the fashion bullshit” – because the smell of marketing is so strong. 

Inclusion and diversity: facts vs words 


After being diagnosed with a degenerative disease, I can report a much different reality about fashion and inclusion based on my personal experience. Indeed, as a wheelchair user, I can attest that not only showrooms lack accessibility but fashion events too. So, this means you have to rely on the empathy of the staff working there – and that empathy can’t always be taken for granted!

In September 2019 – Covid hit the previous season – I was consulting for a brand participating in one of the exhibitions connected to Camera Moda. The designer had received an invitation to an event dedicated to fashion buyers and emerging designers, and so, the designer extended the invitation to me. I couldn’t attend alone; I needed assistance with my wheelchair. Therefore, the designer informed the Camera Moda press office about the need for a plus-one, which, frankly, shouldn’t require much explanation. Should it?

Their response was that because of the pandemic, they had limited access, so I wasn’t allowed to bring another person with me. Naturally, this meant I couldn’t participate in the event.

My friends were shocked by the idea that I put myself in the position of asking permission. In the case of walking disability, plus-one is a fact, period. But I was afraid any reaction would cause problems for the brand I worked for.

Disappointed by that reply, I posted something on my Instagram. I was fuming, frustrated. Unable to respond as they deserved in that precise moment. Shortly after, a beautiful human DM’d me, asking if she had understood my message correctly.

Laura Mohapi, a talented artist based in London, offered her support. Also, she believed I had to address what happened and offered to write a letter to Camera Moda on my behalf. The thought of having to explain myself made me feel awful, even though I knew it was the right thing to do, so her offer was a much-needed gesture of kindness.

I read the letter she wrote, and it was like receiving a punch in my stomach. I pondered a lot. But eventually, I decided to forward it by email.

No response came to my inbox. Probably it went ignored. And so I sent a registered letter as well.

Disability in fashion: Wheelchair? Please, don’t come!


This time, the message got a little attention – though not much. Indeed, I received in my inbox a forwarded email – in English. They didn’t even bother to make an effort to copy and paste the English version they received into a new email. They paid zero attention to the form, which gave the impression that what happened had no relevance for them. Or perhaps, they weren’t familiar with how to handle official correspondence coming from the president of Camera Moda.

In the end, it took me nearly two years to find the courage to write about it. But the sadness, frustration, and disappointment I feel when I see those ‘Include Diversity’ events still make me sick to my stomach.

And so, Cri and I wonder: when they launch those events for the fashion industry, what do they truly mean?

Wheelchair? Please, Don’t Come! Read More »