fashion industry

The Luxury Inconsistency

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How the fashion system devalues itself


Straight to the point of the luxury inconsistency: top brands stopped representing luxury. When they adopted the overproduction model, triggering a constant need for discounts, they moved in a different direction. And with the rise of ‘affordable luxury’–a meaningless oxymoron–the fashion industry has been doing its best to devalue what little remains of luxury.

Luxury: from exclusivity to mass products


Overproduction and luxury have nothing in common. But the fashion industry promoted this pattern to make more money in the name of growth and greed. Some top brands represented the last stronghold of an industry that was transforming into financial conglomerates. In this new context, fashion shifted from exclusivity to the masses.

In order to appeal to a wider audience, communication had to develop a different narrative, revolving around three points:
1- extremised concepts, just to give something to talk about
2- socialite or fashion bloggers to promote the products
3- frequent markdowns

As a result, the industry lowered its standards focusing on branding rather than providing creativity and excellent quality. The byproduct was a crass logo dependency. However, associating a logo with specific lifestyle imagery is not the same as creating well-made products. Most importantly, exclusivity and discounts are inherently contradictory.

The luxury short-circuit


Sometimes luxury brands, how they still want to call themselves, release the misguided communication, as seen in the case of Balenciaga. Consequently, fashion bloggers end up selling their products at a discount. But can you imagine who paid full price for those items? They must be thrilled to see them undersold!

Rising prices: the latest strategy for luxury


Now brands increase prices due to pandemic-related issues and inflation, but that does not mean better quality. They’re simply covering their costs. If people accept paying more, they get mass-produced items in return, not exclusivity.

What masses believe is luxury, it is not. It’s the product of an industry that has lost its consistency. A fashion industry that, without serious critique and questioning, reveals its short-circuit and inability to change.

In conclusion, communication missteps show the luxury inconsistency to everyone. And you don’t even need to be a fashion insider to understand it!

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The End of Trend-Based Items

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From trend-driven to timeless: how contemporary fashion has evolved


Although fashion brands stubbornly introduce transient concepts to maximise their turnover, the end of trend-based items seems quite clear. Lately, the idea of seasonal trends has lost meaning. That is in favour of a clean and timeless style that favours classics with a modern twist, clothes you’ll never get tired of.

Trend-based fashion, status quo and the pandemic


Trendy-driven items reflect the status quo–fashion with a close expiry date, without distinction between luxury and fast fashion. But since the pandemic, our lifestyles have changed, and so have the clothes we want to wear. The climate crisis has also played a key role, influencing consumer behavior and shaping the way we approach style.

Cleaning out our wardrobes of the pieces we no longer wear is the first step. And that, by the way, doesn’t absolutely mean discarding them. In fact, as a consequence of this evolved behaviour, we don’t throw away clothing. We do not throw away anything. We either donate or re-sell, depending on the item.

The reason for this wardrobe cleanout is simple: we realised we don’t need more garments. Less but better is what we need. And also, we need clothes that make us feel good.

The end of trend-drive fashion & new style: timeless, seasonless, comfortable


The new style is about assembling a capsule wardrobe of beautifully designed garments. Special pieces that give a sense of elegance but make you feel comfortable at the same time. Even important clothes that we love to mix nonchalantly.

Therefore, the focus is on the cut and fabrics that provide an elevated touch. Relaxed tailoring assembled in modern separates is the heart of this evolved style. Blazers, trousers and knits do not constrain the body but allow movement. Also, we want to feel the comfort on our skin. So, wearing our favourite clothes becomes a pleasant experience.

In this context, we see the end of trend-based items. Indeed, we filter fashion proposals in search of good design – seasonless and timeless clothing. An evolved and subtle elegance. A clean style that embodies a contemporary understatement that impresses for its beauty but refuses any showiness.

#formodernhumans

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Limited Number Of Pieces: Our Fashion Alternative

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Why limited quantities pave the way to sustainable fashion


The production of a limited number of pieces represents an alternative in the fashion industry. Indeed, it is a viable approach towards sustainable fashion.

It means producing much less without forcing the market to pursue never-ending growth. The purpose is to limit the impact of the fashion industry on the planet while protecting workers with decent wages. But, at the same time, offering quality and not quantity to consumers.

We are far from the scarcity principle and the fear of missing out, developed to manipulate people’s behaviour. Those patterns fake scarcity to hide a system of overproduction. Because of this massified production, the fashion system needs parallel markets, frequent markdowns and marketing tricks to encourage people to consume more and more.

The sustainable solution


Garments and accessories made by skilled tailors or crafted by artisans. In the hands of a healthier and more balanced manufacturing chain, those limited production would have a lower impact on the planet. This system includes small reorders and a made-to-order service for retailers. In the end, clients would get real quality pieces made to last rather than disposable fashion.

Unique fashion and sustainability: a limited number of pieces, our retail approach


We have reduced the quantities we buy from each brand we select for our boutique. Perhaps they are not thrilled with it, but they cannot deny there’s a new reality, so we must face it and find solutions. Even though some brands come from Japan, which you may consider less sustainable, since quantities are small, the impact is low. Microscopic compared to the fashion supermarkets like big retailers or dept. stores.

Indeed, a limited number of pieces is our commitment to uniqueness and sustainability. Specifically, we are satisfied with Marc Le Bihan, who gave the opportunity of a made-to-order service to those who appreciate his unique designs.

Ultinately, we can foster the status quo, pursuing an exploitative system, or we can explore alternatives. We chose to work for a different possibility, an evolution, a change for the better. And a limited number of pieces is our commitment to unique fashion and sustainability.

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The Growth Obsession

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Can fashion survive without growth?


While reading the international news, it seems the growth obsession is here to stay despite climate change. Industries don’t see any problem or urgency. So, why should they make a change? They don’t really care because profit comes first. Although panels address sustainability as a crucial matter for the fashion industry, growth still seems to be the main concern.

Sustainability and growth obsession


On December 22, Vanessa Friedman, The New York Times fashion director and chief fashion critic, moderated a task force of fashion industry leaders.

On the surface, sustainability is touted as the fashion industry’s goal. However, industry leaders argue that true sustainability won’t be achieved without a shift in the business model and a greater effort to educate consumers.

Ms. Friedman has highlighted a crucial point:

“At this point, it’s not about the chemicals. It’s about the sheer amount of stuff that we produce, that we buy and that we waste.”

Vanessa Friedman

But then Laurent Claquin, Americas president of the luxury group Kering, declared: “Growth is not a bad word.”
Well, this leaves us a little bit perplexed…

Although the conclusion was that the fashion industry needs to stop focusing on exponential growth, some contradictory positions emerged.

So, where is the fashion system heading? And can fashion survive without growth?

China, Covid and growth


In an interview with “Il sole 24 ore”, Alberto Forchielli, entrepreneur and expert in international business with a focus on Asia, said:

“In China, the Covid situation is truly explosive. Some factories are seeing 80-90% of their employees out sick. Experts estimate 250 million cases and two million deaths within the year. Now everything is blocked and obviously, it will have consequences for the economy. Factories can’t keep up with orders, and containers don’t leave. But this situation will not last long. Forecasts say that growth will return in the third quarter. And when China restarts, it won’t be easy for the West: gas and oil will rise again next winter because Chinese energy demand will explode.”

Growth obsessed industries vs climate change


On the one hand, the current situation in China is a catastrophe facing many deaths. Yet, on the other, the imperative is growth. Growth, growth and more growth!

The big picture is this: extreme heat, rainforest burning, glaciers melting, flooding, ocean life dying, and insect numbers plummeting. And we could go on with the list! Our lifestyle is destroying the planet and the ecosystems, and this destruction will soon revert to us.

Is growth still the only plan we have?

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When Will You Start Sales? Never!

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Sales and sustainability don’t play well together–and why it matters


When people ask: when will you start sales? We reply: never. No sales here! Buy less but better over the season! And it’s easy to understand the point: other than an illusory short-term fix, sales don’t solve any problem. Intentionally neglecting the big picture, they contribute to exacerbating the exploitative system.

The need to change seems a shared belief. And it’s interesting to hear people in the fashion industry and consumers, too, talking about the urgency of it.

After all, it’s nice to keep playing the same game expecting something to change. Isn’t it?

The un-sustainability of sales


We all participate in the exploitation game traced by an economic system that led the world to destruction. But we just prefer to ignore it.

Flooded by overproduction, the market is exploding. And the majority of these garments are made by people who cannot afford to cover their basic needs. Fashion production is so excessive that it has a tremendous impact on the planet in terms of carbon emissions, waste and labour abuse. Retailers, for their part, inflate prices in anticipation of the inevitable question: “When will you start sales?”
But this system is not sustainable. So it’s time to make different choices, even if unpopular choices.

The sustainable solution


If everyone had a fair wage, we wouldn’t feel the need to constantly lower prices—a practice that has eroded quality standards. Clothing and accessories could maintain a more reasonable price range year-round. ‘Less but better’ would be the solution. Now, that’s sustainable fashion!

But the news says retailers are optimistic on sales. Optimistic? For what? Is a bargain worth a burning planet?

As a small retailer operating for over 17 years, we don’t want to be part of this global exploitation. Indeed we chose to cut the quantity we used to buy. Our fashion selection is essential, in a limited number of pieces, plus a made-to-order service. That is to ensure unicity and be as much as possible sustainable.

There’s a brilliant quote we found on the web:

“We ignore truths for temporary happiness.”

Unknown


In our contemporay context, sales are a way to ignore the truth. But difficult moments need radical choices.
So why don’t you stop being part of this game?

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