fashion industry

The Elephant In The Room: Overproduction

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& why the fashion system ignores it


The elephant in the room is a bulky presence that fills every physical space. A dominant companion whose effect we can see in every corner of the planet. The thing is, everyone ignores it, hides it, or pretends not to see it. 

But can the fashion industry make change without addressing its elephant in the room? 

Fashion industry: what is the elephant in the room?


It’s overproduction! An enormous, visible, tangible and destructive elephant. Is the industry aware of it? Fashion insiders, CEOs, fashion designers? And the group of all the new “sustainable labels”? And what about those who promote corporate change? Of course, they are aware. But they still put profit first, not the planet. Even new companies born to spread sustainable messages do not renounce the overproduction/overconsumption pattern. In fact, some deemed changing that system would be too radical, and bosses wouldn’t accept it.

But is it plausible to talk about sustainability regardless of overproduction? No! Of course, not! 

To make it even more clear: can brands that overproduce goods be considered sustainable? No, they can’t! It seems obvious!

So, why does every single brand involved in this overproduction system promote its sustainable practices? Marketing is the answer: the purpose is, selling more, feeding the system and their pockets. And marketing takes the shape of greenwashing or social washing in order to show a clean face engaging with people. 

Specifically, are top brands and new green companies bringing real innovation? Are they doing the right thing with their sustainable marketing strategies? No, they simply found a new way, an updated way, to make money!

And so, in the end, it all boils down to this point: can the fashion industry attempt to make a change without addressing the elephant in the room? No! Of course, not! Indeed, the industry is far from changing for the better.

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Cultural Change

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Between utopia and feasibility


Are we ready for cultural change? The real one, we mean. When it comes to sustainability, do we believe in all the marketing bullshit that flooded communication lately? Or are we open to change for real? Ready to pick this opportunity up and make something better beyond the facades? 

People are bombarded with deceiving information: 
“We are sustainable because we recycle garments!”
“We use milk, coconut or whatever fibres.” 
“Hey, we have a conscious section in our store!”
“There’s a sustainable selection on our e-shop.”
“And we are the ones who do it best because we plant trees!”

Forget all that. Even the ‘plant a tree’ claim is proven misleading. Indeed, all these messages have the sole purpose of making people overconsume. As a matter of fact, not a single company has changed their overproduction pattern.

On the one hand, this is marketing, what brands need to say in order to show a clean face. But, on the other, we can find alternative reports and explorations that dig the truth out. Are we open to reading those reports? Understand how things really are? And, therefore, start questioning? 

Of course, sustainability is a path to pursue with conviction and self-commitment, despite all the difficulties, misleading messages, and smoke and mirrors. 

But is the effort worth it? Or, as many people with whom we exchange thoughts tell us, sustainability is just one of those beautiful utopias. To sell,one must focus only on increasing sales. That is what companies have to do. And people, for their part, have to buy whatever product. 

So, in the context of trade, specifically in the fashion field, is sustainability a utopia or is it feasible? What’s your viewpoint on this?

Are you open to cultural change? We would love to hear your thoughts. 
Drop us an email, WhatsApp, or comment here below!

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Carbon Neutral: Plant A Tree?

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Offsetting carbon emissions: why it is misleading


The carbon neutral definition may lead people to believe that a brand claiming this practice is sustainable. But, planting trees isn’t enough to solve the climate change issue.

Indeed, it’s always interesting to read how the fashion industry is involved in sustainable practices. Which, now, we can place under the umbrella of corporate change. We get itchy just thinking about it! There is no company that doesn’t talk about its eco-friendly policies. The bigger they are, the more they blurt out promises they cannot keep.

Sustainable brands


According to the Circular Fashion Index 2023, Gucci is the most sustainable among luxury brands. Kearny, a strategic consultancy company that analyses the impact of the circularity of brands, operates this ranking. They rank fast fashion brands, too! So, fast fashion has sustainable practices –really?

We feel a little disappointed when agencies release these rankings because of the misleading impact. In fact, we think industries use the word sustainable too much. After checking out those rankings, our question is: how can brands structured on an overproduction model be sustainable?

Carbon neutral or greenwashing?


But, while some magazines posted the list of the most sustainable brands or sustainable mega entities, The Guardian released an article that dampens enthusiasm. 

“Adverts that claim products are carbon neutral using offsets are to be banned by the UK’s advertising watchdog unless companies can prove they really work, the Guardian can reveal, as Gucci becomes the latest company to struggle with a high-profile environmental commitment based on offsetting.
Amid growing concern that firms are misleading consumers about the environmental impact of their products, the Advertising Standards Authority’s (ASA) is to begin stricter enforcement around the use of terms such as “carbon neutral”, “net zero” and “nature positive” as part of a greenwashing crackdown later this year after a six-month review.”

The Guardian

Offset CO2 emissions: what does it mean? 


Offsetting CO2 emissions means balancing the amount of CO generated by any activity through reforestation, parks and natural reserves protection. These projects generate carbon credits.

“In January, a joint Guardian investigation found that many rainforest offsets certified by Verra, which operates the world’s leading carbon standard, had little impact despite being widely used by major companies for environmental claims, also finding evidence of forced evictions at a flagship project in Peru used by Disney and Apple.”

The Guardian


Specifically, The Guardian revealed that more than 90% of rainforest carbon offsets by the biggest certifier are worthless! Therefore, planting trees isn’t helping with climate change.

When big brands, corporations and millionaires talk about sustainability and carbon emissions, always be careful. They are the problem. And if they want to be part of the solution, they must change their overproduction model and lifestyle first. 

Changing marketing isn’t enough. Carbon-neutral and sustainable claims are just smoke and mirrors.

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Tailoring vs Mass Products

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Valuing quality over novelties


Tailoring has nothing to do with mass products. Indeed, they are two worlds apart. Why is it important to make this point clear? Because what and how we buy, is connected to the change we want to make. In fact, it’s about promoting a cultural shift far from the novelty-obsessed fashion industry. To this end, changing the perspective of what we consider new is crucial.

Mass products: ready to wear and trendy items


With the term mass products, we identify the “production of large quantities of a standardised article by an automated mechanical process.” Specifically, in the fashion industry, we call it pret-a-porter or ready to wear. In other words, mass-produced clothing with an average price range. Both top brands and the “average market” garments are mass-produced.

You can call these garments new because they come from a new collection, a current season, or a new delivery. But that doesn’t imply specific quality standards. Nor anything significant in the context of climate change.

Ready to wear is trendy based, cheaper to manufacture and convenient for the consumer. But this business model has reached a tipping point. In fact, the impact it has on the planet is devastating and undeniable. Mass-produced clothing is the result of capitalism, an economic system based on the exploitation of people and the planet’s resources. Since this system believes in endless growth, it fosters overconsumption in the shape of trendy items pushing people towards novelty obsession.

Tailoring: quality over quantity


On another level, we find tailoring. Which means pieces manufactured by artisans, made by skilled hands. Therefore, clothing from ateliers or small realities. They would provide good quality in limited quantities reducing fashion waste.

While mass products change continuously, offering new items that last a breath of wind, tailored garments focus on quality and artisanal workings. In fact, their designs don’t change that much over time. You don’t buy them because they’re trendy, but because you’ll wear them for a lifetime.

Most importantly, tailoring brings an added value, mass products, instead, represent the perpetration of a destructive system.

What if what we call “new” is actually wrong?

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Sustainable Fashion: Hemp For Clothing

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Are you familiar with its properties?


Checking out Spring-Summer 23 new arrivals, we had the chance to learn more about hemp, a natural material with excellent features.

Garments’ compositions show hemp among various materials. Every time we receive orders placed months before, we check the tailoring, fit and touch the fabrics to ensure our selection matches our expectations. As to provide you with good design and quality. 
Also, during Milano Design Week, we received an invitation to view “Prototipo” – a clothing brand supported by Lampoon Magazine. An accurate design for an entire collection made of hemp, which we found interesting.

What is hemp used for?


This material is versatile. The wide range of use goes from eco-building to cosmetics to textiles – for fashion and furnishing, food and more. Considering the environmental impact, this material offers many advantages compared to other natural fibres. 

Richard Fagerlund, an expert who has over 40 years of experience in the management of plant pests, explained that: “Cotton cultivation is probably the biggest pollutant on the planet since, occupying only 3% of the agricultural land of the world, demands 25% of the pesticides used in total. The chemicals go into the groundwater, and the poison targets not just insects, but all organisms, including humans. Furthermore, the hemp fibre is longer, more absorbent, resistant and insulating than the cotton fibre”. Also, from a cultivation viewpoint, cotton requires about twice as much water to grow as hemp. (Source)

Why is hemp a sustainable material?

  • it grows quickly
  • does not need any special care
  • the whole plant is used, therefore there is no waste.

Hemp properties


Thanks to its hollow fibre, hemp yarn with a high thermal insulating and breathable capacity, which behaves like wool: cool in summer and warm in winter. It has antibacterial and antifungal properties and can absorb moisture from the body, keeping it dry and absorbing infrared and UVA rays up to 95%. 
Furthermore, tear resistance is three times greater than that of cotton. In fact, among natural fibres, it is the most wear-resistant.

In conclusion, hemp is a great fabric for clothing. Just an ironic note: do not try to promote a post on social media, the Meta’s algorithm doesn’t allow it. Are they afraid you get high by wearing clothes?

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