fashion industry

UN Against Overconsumption

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Fashion marketers as the key to shape a new narrative


The UN states that fashion must to stop promoting overconsumption. Indeed, this aligns perfectly with our approach, since we focused more on this evolved path, about four years ago. However, curating a selection of timeless pieces to wear for a lifetime has always been central to our viewpoint.

Specifically, the UN Environment Programme and UN climate change have just released new recommendations for those who work in fashion marketing and communication.

“We are draining humanity’s lifeblood through vampiric overconsumption and unsustainable use, and evaporating it through global heating,” said U.N. Secretary-General Antonio Guterres. (source)

UN against overconsumption: a systemic issue


According to the UN, mass consumption is a systemic issue. So, they identify marketing as the key to fostering cultural change. That is how: leading consumers to change consumption rates, increasing consumer knowledge and shifting consumer behaviours. The idea is to tackle misinformation and greenwashing through science-based communication and transparency.

Although we agree with the idea of fighting overconsumption and overproduction, we are afraid that many of the words suggested in the playbook are buzzwords hiding greenwashing.
Marketing is an ensemble of activities finalised to sell products or services. So far, fashion marketing has contributed to creating confusion through deliberate operations. It isn’t likely that corporations are ready to leave behind their growth pattern. Ethics over money sounds weird from a capitalistic view.

Fashion industry: overproduction & overconsumption


Overproduction and overconsumption are two faces of the same coin, capitalism. In other words, a vicious and exploitative economic system which triggers toxic behaviours.

Overproduction leads to overconsumption: this point was clear to us. So, as a fashion retailer, about four years ago, we thought it made sense to reduce the quantity of clothing we ordered each season dramatically. That allowed us to avoid overstock and frequent markdowns while promoting a reduction of consumption based on fewer products but good quality. And so, a timeless selection of non-trend-based garments with great design value. Also, getting familiar with the concept of degrowth as an effective strategy to drive change, we trust our choice was valuable.

However, it’s not enough, and we need to do more. But it’s complicated to work since most fashion industry players still promote growth, perhaps hiding it behind traceability of QR Codes. Now they call it green growth. Which, as clearly explained in Kevin Anderson’s video, is meaningless. It leads nowhere.

Furthermore, it’s hard to find solutions when consumers shop from retailers who still work on an overproduction basis. How can these retailers stop promoting overconsumption with shops full to the brim of clothes?

Most importantly, does the UN leave the fight against overconsumption to the good heart of marketers? Of course, fashion marketing is part of the problem. And an ethical approach could work. But expecting redemption without regulations and strict controls in a rotten system seems a bit naive.

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Pharre-Well Fashion Designers!

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Paris Men’s Fashion Week: Pharrell Williams debuts for Louis Vuitton


Fashion crowds, say Pharre-Well to fashion designers, and welcome to marketing!
During the Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Pharrell Williams presented his first release for Louis Vuitton. A big marketing show after which every fashion designer can quit their job. The fashion industry doesn’t need you anymore.

Pharre-Well & the rappers show


The runway was all about creating the hype, though some titled he brought a gentle revolution in fashion. Wait, did you see anything new? So revolutionary? Really? It seemed like an ’80s flashback.
In fact, he brought up nothing in terms of design, zero new elements. Specifically, he collected all the rap imagery, threw it in a washing machine, and so he got the mix. The show, as well as the guests’ outfits, was a celebration of black culture and hip-hop, which is now the hook to attract masses of kids who want to look like their favourite idols from the star system. Indeed, that’s what the runway was. A show, a big parade of stars. Not fashion, nor an example of good design. And not even a gentle revolution, please!

Fashion & (unconsistent) representation


Although it is perfectly understandable that centuries of white dominance in every field made many people feel unrepresented, it is unclear why historic fashion maisons believe they should shift to a universe that does not belong to them.
Clearly, one thing is the history, image, and tradition of a maison; another thing is what people, meaning the end customers, want to do with the clothes or accessories they purchase. In other words, the style they create by mixing them.

Fashion marketing vs heritage


But does it make sense to take down Vuitton’s heritage? And is expanding the business a good reason to demolish brands’ heritage? How can loyal clients trust them? Sadly, LVMH’s strategy recalls what Alessandro Michele did with Gucci. When the market got oversaturated with pointless stuff, they realised maybe it was a mistake. Afterwards, brands can attempt to reverse this strategy, but they lose credibility. Besides, it says a lot about what the fashion industry wants: growth! Which now, they like to call green growth. That is what corporations hide behind the facade, preserving their overproduction pattern.

Pharre-Well fashion designers!


However, the point is that being a fashion designer nowadays is really frustrating. In fact, after this LVMH move, we can celebrate the end of the fashion designer. A professional figure that required specific skills and a creative vein now only takes big popularity.

So, Pharre-Well fashion designers out there! Adieu!

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Fashion Experts vs Sustainable Brands

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Spring-Summer 24 fashion exhibitions


With Spring-Summer 24 selling season-opening, fashion experts are meeting sustainable brands. And so, we received invitations for panels and fashion events, aiming to facilitate the shift towards eco-conscious products. But the ultimate goal isn’t sustainability. It never is so. 

Unfortunately, brands that have an idea of what sustainability is, aren’t understood by fashion buyers and showrooms. Indeed, both industry players had the same comments, which seems weird and leaves little hope for specific brands to find a market that would sustain their business in an evolved fashion panorama. But fundamentally, these comments say a lot about what sustainability represents in the fashion industry.

Fashion experts’ remarks on sustainable brands


We’ll guide you through some opinions we heard about these new brands:
1- Is this clothing collection sustainable?
2- This collection is too small. Why just a few pieces?
3- It’s expensive! Prices are too high. We want the same clothes at a much lower price.

Now the responses we would love to give, point after point and face to face, to the fashion experts:
To the very first question everyone asks when approaching a booth: is it sustainable? 
What do you mean? Can’t you understand it from the size of the collection, style choice, quality and materials? Do you need a tag stating if a garment is eco-conscious? 

The second one: your collection is too small! 
Guess what! Capsule collections should be the way out from decades of racks packed with new items. The way out from overproduction. Isn’t a capsule collection more sustainable? It seems showrooms and buyers still need endless items, fabrics and colour options, which is the opposite of sustainable fashion.

Then comes the third request, which makes you understand these experts have no idea what they say: it’s expensive! We want this dress, but cheaper. Well, sustainable materials are expensive, and if the designer were to create that specific dress in a much cheaper material, it wouldn’t make sense.

And so, the last request takes us back to the first: is it sustainable? 
Why do you ask? What do you expect from sustainable brands if you ask for much cheaper materials?

Is sustainability the goal?


Dear fashion experts, buyers and showrooms, are you sure you want sustainable fashion brands? Do you know what sustainable means? It seems your ideas are confused, indeed. And perhaps those panel discussions have a different goal. 

In fact, it sounds like your interest in sustainability stops at justifying your presence in the market.

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Sustainability Is Ridiculous

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Why playing this shell game should be banned


Sustainability is ridiculous. Not because the concept per se is foolish or does not make sense. But because it is too broad, too vague, and, therefore, deceptive. 

Sustainable fashion? This is greenwashing


Sometimes for ignorance or superficiality, yet in most cases, intentionally, as those who play the sustainable game are perfectly aware of what they do. But, in the end, sustainability is just a new way to make money by showing a green facade. The industry, that goes from consultancy to fashion brand retail to NGOs, is flourishing. As a matter of fact, industry players spend time on “eco – green – conscious” labels, but it seems they are playing a shell game. The purpose is to hide and manipulate truths. 

In most cases, the effort is all about running after the latest eco-friendly label. But is it enough to achieve sustainability? It is the case of Chloé, for instance. Richemont hired Gabriela Hearst for her eco credentials, and now, three years later, the designer is exiting the company. Though they say revenue increased by 60%, their design is far away from the beauty of the past. 

Why sustainability is ridiculous


Ultimately, we have some doubts about the strategy Chloé has promoted so far. How can a luxury brand based on seasonal trends manage its business without damaging the planet? We wonder how fashion brands that shift to a purpose-driven business can be credible if they still run their activity on an overproduction pattern. Also, they attain the status of B-Corp. Most importantly, we wonder how B-Corp certification can combine with overproduction. That seems contradictory. In fact, in this context, sustainability is ridiculous.

Specifically, we wonder if a drastic reduction of supply by offering only beautiful design garments made with “sustainable materials” and respecting the production chain would be an effective strategy.

But, of course, we understand that manipulating reality with the effect of fueling overconsumption is the most effective way to make money. So keep up promoting a green world!

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Fashion Waste Visible From Space

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Atacama Desert: fast fashion’s disaster view via satellite


Fashion waste is now visible from space. Indeed SkyFi, an American startup that provides high-resolution satellite photos and recordings, has confirmed a giant pile of clothes in the Atacama Desert, Chile. And so, it happens that a piece of news released in 2021 is brought back, highlighting human inactivity and carelessness towards the waste we put out.

The Atacama Desert and the cost of fast fashion


The Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world, is in Chile. Now it is an island of discarded clothing, including Christmas sweaters and ski boots, piling up in the desert. Indeed, Chile is a hub for secondhand and unsold clothing ending up there from all over the world. USA, Europe and Asia. Approximately 59,000 tons of garments arrive there every year. Clothing merchants buy part of it, but the majority, about 39,000 tons, end up in rubbish dumps in the desert. 
You can read our exploration here.

This is via the SkyFi website:
“The satellite image that we ordered of the clothes pile in Chile’s Atacama Desert really puts things into perspective. The size of the pile and the pollution it’s causing are visible from space, making it clear that there is a need for change in the fashion industry. Our mission to make Earth observation data easy and transparent is vital to identifying and addressing problems like this one.” 

Fashion industry vs change


On the one hand, it’s good to have another viewpoint on what is going on with fashion waste. That perspective about the earth from a distant observation is appalling. On the other, almost two years have gone by since the first news release, but nothing has changed over time. So, were we waiting for a satellite view to make a change?

The fashion industry, a capitalistic system based on the exploitation of people and the planet, has a huge responsibility. However, despite the giant pile of clothes being confirmed, CEOs will not change. The fashion system will not change. But people have the power in their brains and wallet.

Today is World Environment Day, and the big news is that fashion waste is visible from space! Are we waiting for a satellite view from Mars to start moving a finger? Or is it time to educate ourselves and have an independent thought?

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