sustainability

News from the fashion industry

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What’s going on in fashion?

Reading the latest news from the fashion industry sounds like an earthquake is happening. And what a week!

A brief fashion news recap

Alessandro Michele is exiting Gucci. Honestly, we aren’t sad about it. The Maison and its new designer, whoever will be, will face a tough challenge to clean up the circus he made. And bring back the heritage and historical relevance of the brand.

Balenciaga: another brand that has intentionally killed its heritage to undertake a nonsensical path. Moreover, the brand released one of the most disturbing advertising campaigns to launch their plush bags. Children holding bondage teddy bear bags somehow connected to paedophilia is a disgusting message. Not only sexualising kids is horrendous. But it is a clear sign of a lack of ideas. By the way, we could live without plush bags these days!

Raf Simons is shutting his namesake brand, maybe to focus on Prada. Even though he is a great designer, there is something we miss. Since he started his co-designing collaboration with Prada, the Balenciagitis phenomenon has affected his vision. Indeed, exaggerated jackets reminded Balenciaga so much that they seemed borrowed from their fashion show! Consequently, Prada stopped being copied and started copying instead.

Where is fashion heading?

So, where is fashion heading? A reflection on this topic is necessary. Can the fashion industry evolve from its current state of confusion?

The pandemic was a game changer, but big groups ignored it. Indeed, they thought they could keep up with their pattern: overproduction and making a lot of money. But it seems that provocations and logoed items aren’t enough to survive.

This is fashion in the hands of finance: a blob of mass products. Items covered with logos, taken to the extreme and pretty ignorant. Also, designers lost their crucial role, and marketing experts took their place.

However, we cannot ignore the meaning of the latest news from the fashion industry: reality has dramatically changed, and a new path is needed. Therefore, if brands don’t bring about new ideas, marketing experts will sell their logoed items on another planet!

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Black Friday? Buy nothing!

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Why say no to Black Friday

Here we go again: Black Friday is back, and we urge you to buy nothing! Yes, we are still at this point. That is where the matter rests: filling up the world with rubbish products.
Even though our economic system failed, and the effects are visible, most people ignore it. And they do not realise we cannot suffer the consequence of mindless shopping behaviours anymore.

Black Friday: the chain system

Manufacturers increase the production of poor-quality goods. Retailers, in turn, order more of them in order to satisfy their customers’ compulsive desire for novelties.
Indeed, that is capitalism: overproduction, which leads to unnecessary overconsumption. And all this happens by exploiting workers and the planet. In other words, those who pay the true cost of these heavy discounts with no fair wages, tons of waste, gas emissions and pollution.

buy nothing

Why should we care?

The point is this: we failed the 1.5-degree target for carbon emission. One of the biggest reasons is that we consume too much. How is it not clear yet? So we have only one possibility: to reduce our consumption drastically. And look, that is what sustainable consumption means! It’s not just about purchasing sustainable products but reducing the goods we buy, consume and throw away.

What can we do? Buy nothing!

Eventually, excessive consumerism is destroying the world. And massive sales aren’t consistent with a thoughtful lifestyle. So we need to get rid of this toxic culture. You know what? No change will ever come from corporations or governments. The system won’t change. But we can change and educate ourselves. Because with our ideas and wallet, we promote the world we want. Also, lower turnovers would be the only language corporations would listen to.

Modern humans are conscious consumers. “Less stuff, more meaning” is our guiding principle. Use this day to spend time with your family or your beloved ones. Read books, more books! Listen to music! But do not contribute to a system that leads to destruction.

What can you do? Buy nothing!

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Fashion brands and Russian oil

How fashion is funding the Russian conflict

Have you ever thought there’s a link between fashion brands and Russian oil? Yes, your mass-produced clothing might be indirectly fueling the war in Ukraine.

Changing markets Foundation released the report: “Dressed to Kill: Fashion brands’ hidden links to Russian oil in a time of war.”
This investigation uncovered hidden supply chains connecting fashion brands and Russian oil. So, purchasing some specific polyester clothing might be a way to fuel the war in Ukraine.

Fashion & Russian oil – the connection

Major Indian and Chinese polyester producers source oil from Russia to make synthetic fibre. Then, they sell yarn and fabrics to garment manufacturers, who, in turn, produce clothes for well-known fashion brands.

Even though many countries have imposed sanctions on Russia, they continue selling clothes made with Russian oil. So, in the end, these same countries are financially supporting Russia’s economy during the invasion of Ukraine. Also, the research highlights links with Saudi Arabia and fracked gas from the US.

We invite you to watch this video:


Fossil fashion thrives on overproduction and an infinite growth system, a clear expression of capitalism. But, as we can see with our eyes, exponential growth is not sustainable for our planet. Indeed, it pushes people toward overconsumption of cheap garments, fostering that buy-use-toss behaviour typical of our society. A toxic consuming habit which, in turn, led to a spiralling waste crisis.
The result is a massive exploitation of people and the planet, with an immense climate cost.

Are your clothes made with Russian oil?

Cheap fashion brands are attractive, but someone else pays the cost: exploited people and our burning planet. And you may also end up supporting Russia’s war.

So, be mindful and choose quality items made to last. One quality garment is better than two bags full of fast-fashion garbage!

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COP 27: the climate show is on!

COP 27 is becoming more of an international show leaving people in doubt about its effectiveness. We hear world leaders urging us to worry about the climate emergency for about ten days. After that, no action follows, and things are only getting worse. So, do we really need it?

With more than 35 thousand people involved, the cost and impact are crazy! In the first two days, 40 private jets landed in the Egyptian desert. For a conference on climate change? It sounds like a joke!
However, most of the leaders participating in this summit are the same ones who contributed to creating the problems we face nowadays. And their strong connection with oil and corporations is at the heart of the matter.

So, a simple question arises, which doesn’t require rocket science but the common sense of humble people like us. Can those who caused a disaster help find solutions? It seems unlikely to happen.

Corporations are the face of capitalism. If asked to change, they will shift to green capitalism. But this will not reduce their impact on the planet because they will continue to overproduce goods. So, people and planet exploitation will continue. Just with a different colour!

Indeed, believing that corporations will be active in finding solutions to climate change is quite naive. Ethics and business aren’t good friends. Until the very last drop of oil is available, they will persist in exploitation and make money out of it. All the rest, COP 27 included, is just a facade. A kind of big greenwashing machine which has the effect of manipulating people. Or unnerving those who don’t buy it.

Capitalistic growth led to the destruction of the world. Making capitalism green will change its colour. But a new facade will not eradicate the element that caused the disaster: never-ending growth. Which is cancer to humanity and nature.

Our planet cannot bear it anymore. We need to question endless economic growth. If growth is life, overgrowth is death.

And so, we don’t need world leaders discussing the climate disaster for ten days, hand in hand with corporations. COP 27 is pointless. We need people who care 365 days a year!

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Generation Z & sustainability

The topic of sustainability has a warped meaning and understanding amongst most consumers today, Generation Z included.

Gen Z is said to be the upcoming generation for a positive environmental shift in our society. This generation has been at the forefront of the sustainability movement. Pushing companies and brands to conduct sustainable practices in an effort to save the planet we are destroying.

What sustainability means to Generation Z

But does this young generation truly know what sustainability means?
Unfortunately, this “green movement” has become misunderstood as greenwashing. With the lack of research and education on environmentalism, brands have been able to blatantly lie to their consumers. By engaging in greenwashing tactics, they conveyed an image of sustainability and ethicality that simply does not exist to them.

It is now the responsibility of the younger generations to wake up, and do their research. And hold these brands accountable for their greenwashing schemes and harmful environmental practices.

The research on Gen Z

I spent some time interviewing college students currently studying abroad in Milano to understand their point of view. What sustainability means to them. And how they practice it in their daily lives. From these conversations I concluded a distorted idea of greenwashing and an unhealthy practice of overconsumption.
All this is due to a lack of transparency between brands and consumers. When discussing the students knowledge of sustainability or familiarity with the term ‘greenwashing’, I received a variety of answers. Many had never heard of greenwashing or how it affected the choices they make daily.

The truth on Gen Z & sustainability

Students told me that sustainability meant being cautious and putting the environment first. Also, an item or lifestyle alleged to be sustainable, can be trusted with no further questioning. Such contradictory answers surprised me. How can one be cautious yet trust that the word ‘sustainable’ is 100% true?

Students attest to practising sustainability by donating clothes, vintage or thrift shopping, and creating capsule wardrobes. But, when asked what brands they typically shop from, the most common response I received was some of the brands guilty of the greatest greenwashing techniques. The brands these students shop from attest to caring for the earth and market themselves as “conscious” or “committed” to sustainability. Yet still participate in mass overproduction.

Although students brought up capsule wardrobes quite often, overconsumption still seems to have a huge hold on this generation due to the hyper-fast fashion movement. Students claimed to go shopping regularly, at least once a month.

An advice I can give to this generation who yearns for a more sustainable lifestyle is to question everything you see. Don’t support brands that shout about sustainability to sharpen their image for the purpose of gaining social acceptance. But a brand that does good because they care. The word ‘sustainable’ is not regulated and, ultimately, does not need to hold any truth. So, when you see that buzzword word on a tag, don’t forget to fact-check that claim.

Generation Z seems to have an interest, and desire for a more sustainable earth. But, unfortunately, lacks the inclination to question the brands they shop from. Hiding behind the term “ignorance is bliss” is not a viable excuse for a dying planet screaming for change.

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A piece written by Leyla Jackson – apparel merchandising student from Washington State University. Currently studying at Università Cattolica Del Sacro Cuore in Milan and interning for suite123. Passionate about working towards a more sustainable future for not only the fashion industry, but our planet.

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