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Isn’t the Relentless Game of Musical Chairs Fueling Fashion’s Inconsistency?

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Questioning the strategy behind the constant change of creative directors


A while back, we wrote a post about creative directors and the relentless game of musical chairs—a situation that has become increasingly common. Now, the topic has resurfaced abruptly across several fashion brands. As they hop from chair to chair, is it about power, visibility, or something else?

Last week, breaking news revealed significant shifts at the helm of major brands. Specifically, Galliano has departed from Margiela with no news yet of his next destination. Matthieu Blazy left Bottega Veneta for Chanel, while Louise Trotter departed Carven to join Bottega Veneta—finally, a woman at the forefront. Moreover, rumours are circulating about Jonathan Anderson preparing for a new role.

These frequent changes evoke the game of musical chairs: they provide plenty to talk about but often leave people perplexed. Yet, this appears to be the prevailing strategy of luxury fashion brands, with designers seemingly changing every few years.

What is the strategy behind the relentless game of musical chairs?


But what is the strategy behind these moves? Is it simply a way to stay in the spotlight, dominate conversations, and remain relevant? Are brands confident that luxury shoppers prefer fleeting buzz over meaningful products that embody the values of a specific brand—products of which there is almost no trace?

Many creative directors show little to no respect for the heritage and DNA of the brands they represent. Meanwhile, scepticism towards the concept of luxury continues to grow, even because luxury products do not keep their promise. Do they not realise that this constant game of musical chairs risks further damaging the image of luxury itself?

Conclusion


This excessive shuffling has significant consequences: brands lose identity and consistency, while consumer trust erodes. The original design codes and unique DNA that once defined each maison become blurred, leaving the brands looking increasingly alike. Yet, in an industry dominated by oversized egos, appointing a new creative director seems to be the ultimate goal for luxury brands—even at the cost of trust and respect.

In conclusion, this constant turnover appears to be the prevailing strategy for luxury maisons—something consumers will need to get used to. But is this revolving door truly beneficial for the brands? Or is the relentless game of musical chairs only fuelling fashion’s inconsistency?

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Netflix: Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy – Why you should watch

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Corporate tricks that encourage overconsumption and why accountability matters


The latest Netflix documentary on sustainability, Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy, released on November 20th this year, is a must-watch for anyone who shops—anywhere.

12,000, 25,000, 36,000, and 1.3 million. What do these numbers represent? They are the staggering quantities of items produced annually by Gap, H&M, Zara, and Shein, respectively.

Intrigued by how we, as consumers, are persuaded to buy more than we need, I decided to watch it. The trailer promised a compelling exploration of this phenomenon.

Netflix, Buy Now!: Corporate manipulation exposed


Have you ever wondered where all those products go—the ones we discard without a second thought? This so-called “away” isn’t some magical place. It’s real, and it’s devastating.

This is where away is:

The land of waste


Netflix’s Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy takes an instructional approach to unravel the system behind overconsumption. The documentary is structured around five shocking directives: sell more, waste more, lie more, hide more, and control more.
Throughout these segments, former insiders from Amazon, Apple, Unilever, and Adidas reveal how companies manipulate us. Eric Liedtke, former Adidas Brand President, explains it bluntly: “You don’t need a new piece of clothing; you need a compelling reason to buy it.”

Netflix Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy – Official trailer


Have you noticed that the colour of Sprite bottles is no longer green but clear plastic? Even these subtle changes have a sinister purpose. Coca-Cola made the change to hide the environmental impact of their products. In fact, when the bottles were green they were easily identifiable in landfills.

But the manipulation doesn’t stop at marketing. It extends to how products are designed, determining their lifespan and whether they can be repaired. These calculated decisions ensure a cycle of relentless consumption, benefiting corporations at the expense of people and the planet.

The impact of product design and consumer behaviour


In today’s world, items are no longer built to last, they have short lifespans. Phones get replaced every three years, and clothing falls apart after a few washes so people replace it every month, if not weekly.

There are some things my family has had for more than ten years that have lasted the test of time, from our Christmas tree my parents bought more than twenty years ago to the dining table they have that has been repurposed into a desk. These pieces were built to last, unlike many products today. Take my computer, for instance. In the six years I’ve owned it, I’ve had to replace the battery. But, the battery is glued inside the device, requiring the replacement of an entire panel.

This isn’t an accident. Kyle Wiens, CEO of iFixit, says Apple censors information so that consumers find it harder to repair devices, making them more likely to buy a new one.
A prime example of this approach is wireless earphones. They are designed with batteries precisely placed and glued into the devices, making replacements nearly impossible. The result? Consumers are left with no choice but to discard and replace them when the battery dies—further fuelling the cycle of waste.

The design flaws and deliberate barriers to repairability aren’t going unnoticed. Recent efforts, such as New York’s legislation on the right to repair electronic products and the EU’s new environmental regulations, demonstrate a growing awareness of the issue. While some companies are taking steps toward sustainability, these efforts remain insufficient to counteract the immense damage already done.

Conclusion: Netflix Buy Now! No novelty, but worth watching


It may not be a groundbreaking concept, but the Netflix documentary Buy Now! effectively exposes corporate manipulation. Hopefully, it will reach a broader audience.

While corporations and governments bear the greatest responsibility for systemic change, as individuals we hold significant power too. We can demand accountability from companies, advocate for action through our local representatives and most importantly, make mindful choices in our daily lives. This means buying less, prioritising true quality garments that are made to last and exploring vintage or second-hand options whenever possible.

Before making your next purchase, ask yourself: Do I really need that new fast-fashion dress?

Every decision we make has the power to challenge the status quo and contribute to a more sustainable future.

✍️ Post written by Sorcha Gorman, a scholar from Melbourne / Australia, studying Public Relations at Università Cattolica in Milan. Currently interning with suite123.

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Galliano Departs Margiela – Now Confirmed

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A decade transfiguring contemporary fashion


The news is here, freshly reported by fashion outlets: John Galliano departs Margiela. While his tenure brought substantial growth to OTB—the group that owns the Maison—it also exemplified a troubling trend in contemporary fashion: the distortion of archival treasures that deserve respect. For this reason, we view his departure without regret.

Galliano’s time at Margiela was pivotal for both parties. For OTB, it was a period of rapid growth and brand elevation. For Galliano, it provided an opportunity to rehabilitate his public image following previous controversies. Now, after more than a decade of collaboration, Galliano exits the Maison, leaving behind a legacy that has sparked both acclaim and critique.

In our earlier post, Decoding Margiela’s Gallianification, we examined how the brand shifted to reflect Galliano’s personal identity. This transformation mirrors a broader industry pattern: creative directors imprinting their aesthetics on every house they helm, often at the expense of the brand’s original vision.

A troubling pattern in the fashion industry


What Galliano did with Margiela is emblematic of a larger issue in the luxury fashion industry. Creative directors often place their personal vision centre-stage, overshadowing the founder’s ethos. Their approach recycles a singular aesthetic, applying it indiscriminately across brands. This practice is enabled by corporate resources, extensive archives, and relentless marketing campaigns.

The result? Brands lose their distinctiveness, morphing into interchangeable entities. As creative directors move from one Maison to another, they replicate the same formula under a different logo, leaving behind a trail of diluted brand identities.

This erosion of authenticity and uniqueness undermines the very pillars of luxury fashion. As highlighted in a recent Altagamma report, consumers increasingly struggle to recognise the essence of luxury amidst this homogenisation.

The game of profit over vision


Our commentary reflects the absurd reality of today’s fashion landscape. An industry once celebrated for its idiosyncratic creativity has devolved into an empty vessel, chasing profit over vision. The relentless pursuit of marketability and trends has stripped many Maisons of their credibility and authenticity.

Conclusion


The news that Galliano departs Margiela is not surprising. His tenure served as a platform for personal rehabilitation while driving significant growth for the Maison. However, it also highlighted one of the industry’s pervasive issues: the prioritisation of individual ego over collective heritage.

Now, the question is: Will Galliano do Galliano under his own brand name, where his vision would truly make sense? Or are we about to witness the Gallianification of yet another fashion house?

Only time will tell, but one thing is clear: the fashion industry must reckon with its identity crisis if it hopes to reclaim its authenticity and creativity.

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Mocha Mousse: Pantone Colour Of The Year 2025 – A New Hue For Comfort

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How this earthy hue captures the spirit of the times


Pantone has unveiled its Color of the Year 2025: Mocha Mousse. A mellow brown imbued with comforting warmth reminiscent of creamy coffee. Indeed, this sensorial hue speaks to our growing desire for harmony and everyday indulgence.

As the global authority on colour, Pantone sets the professional colour language for the design community. Specifically, it enables brands and manufacturers to make precise, colour-critical decisions. In fact, through its Pantone Lifestyle division, it seamlessly merges colour and design across apparel, home, and accessories. So it serves as a source of inspiration for creativity at every touchpoint.

Pantone color of the year 2025: Mocha Mousse


On December 5, Pantone announced PANTONE 17-1230 Mocha Mousse as its Color of the Year 2025. An evocative soft brown that transports our senses into pleasure and deliciousness. This rich brown hue nurtures with its comforting warmth and delectable hints of cacao, chocolate, and coffee, appealing to our desire for comfort.

“Underpinned by our longing for everyday pleasures, PANTONE 17-1230 Mocha Mousse embodies thoughtful indulgence,” says Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute. “Sophisticated and lush, yet unpretentious, it redefines brown, elevating it from humble and grounded to aspirational and luxe. Infused with subtle elegance and earthy refinement, Mocha Mousse offers a discreet and tasteful touch of glamour – a flavourful brown shade enveloping us with its sensorial warmth.”

Image of a glass cup of creamy coffe and chocolate icecream evoking Mocha Mousse, Pantone Coloro of the year 2025, on a background of shades from beige to mocha.
Credit: Pantone – Mocha Mousse 17-1230 – Colour of the year 2025

Mocha Mousse: harmony, comfort, well-being


A growing movement calls us to reconnect with the natural world, embracing its rhythms and resources. So, reflecting this ethos, PANTONE 17-1230 Mocha Mousse embodies an organic essence that celebrates the sustenance of our physical environment. Imbued with authenticity, it strikes a harmonious balance between the demands of modern life and the timeless allure of artful creation.

“The search for harmony touches every aspect of our lives — our relationships, work, social connections, and the natural environment around us,” says Laurie Pressman, Vice President of the Pantone Color Institute. “Harmony inspires inner peace, balance, and a culture of connection and unity. As well as the synthesis of our mental, spiritual and physical well-being. With this in mind, Mocha Mousse resonates with our desire for comfort, wellness, and the simple pleasures we can gift and share.”

Moreover, to mark the 26th anniversary of the Pantone Color of the Year, the brand will, for the first time, showcase Mocha Mousse through events and experiences worldwide.

Conclusion: inspiration for 2025


Earthy yet refined, Mocha Mousse, the Pantone 2025 Color of the Year, offers sensorial warmth and a luxurious yet unpretentious feel. Also, its timeless versatility makes it a foundation for sophisticated, mix-and-match colour palettes that exude elegance and ease.

As we step into 2025, this evocative hue becomes more than just a trend. It symbolizes the power of simplicity and genuine connection. Mocha Mousse invites us to savour the beauty of everyday moments while fostering a deeper harmony with ourselves and the world around us.

In a time of rapid change, its grounded elegance serves as a quiet yet profound reminder: balance, comfort, and authenticity are the luxuries that truly matter.

🖤 We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears. 

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Meaningful Garments: Redefining Fashion’s True Worth

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Where do we truly find value in fashion?


Searching for meaningful garments is our way of addressing the pressing value-for-money question. After decades of working in fashion – long enough to witness countless shifts – we’ve observed a troubling trend.

The industry, once a celebration of creativity and craftsmanship, has transformed into a machine driven by greed, financial gain, and unsustainable growth. But this shift has diluted the meaning behind what we wear, prioritizing quantity over quality and fleeting trends over timeless design.

Yet, meaningful fashion still exists. It resides in thoughtful design, ethical production, and the emotional connection we form with well-crafted pieces. Season after season, our research focuses on finding value.

We discover it by exploring international independent designers who create exceptional designs with fine-quality materials. In fact, they produce in limited quantities, respecting both the people they work with and the planet. Also, we connect with these fashion brands, engage in conversations, and receive colour swatches to feel the materials and assess the quality of what we select.

Meaningful garments: embracing craft, care, and longevity


The garments we curate go beyond trends. Specifically, they are versatile, timeless, and transcend age and gender. Each piece is worth the investment, encapsulating good design, durability, and quality materials. Crafted with care by skilled hands, they are made to last. Importantly, they are produced in small quantities, reinforcing a sustainable approach.

These garments are not just products; they are stories woven with intention and care.

Buy less, buy better


Our curation appeals to shoppers willing to pay more for true quality. These consumers may not prioritise the prestige of a designer logo because they are confident in their choices. Instead, they value clothing and accessories made to last. And so, they don’t need more; they need less, but better.

Conclusion


By choosing meaning over mindless consumption, we reclaim the intrinsic value of clothing and contribute to a more sustainable and equitable future for fashion. It’s not about finding cheaper prices – it’s about recognising the worth of well-made pieces that endure.

Ultimately, the true value in fashion lies in garments that honour their makers, respect the planet and enrich our lives as enduring pieces of our own stories.

🖤 We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears. 

📲 Connect with us on  →WhatsApp or via e-mail

Let’s start a conversation!

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