Microplastics on Human Health – Part 3: Impact in Fashion
Microplastics and fashion – Challenges & solutions
This post, the third and final instalment of a three-part series, delves into the impact of microplastics in the fashion industry, exploring both the challenges and potential solutions. It builds on insights from the November 2024 scientific outreach event, Microplastics and Human Health, where experts highlighted the pervasive presence of microplastics and their escalating threat to human health. Cultural Project by Natasha Calandrino Van Kleef; Scientific Direction by Claudio Fenizia. Promoted by the University of Milan and the Municipality of Milan.
You can read the first and second instalments [here] and [here]. Additionally, you can watch the panel discussions [here] and [here].
Now let’s step into our field, fashion.
The impact of microplastics in fashion
Dalia Benefatto from Devalia presented a compelling case on “The Impact of Microplastics in Fashion: Challenges and Solutions.” She advocated for a scientific approach to the circular economy.
The story of synthetic materials began in 1873 when New Yorker John Wesley Hyatt patented celluloid, the first artificial polymer, which revolutionised industries like motion pictures. Without plastic, our world would look vastly different. However, once plastics enter the ocean, they undergo fragmentation, breaking down into increasingly smaller particles that are impossible to recover. These particles eventually become microplastics. Specifically, it is a process that all textile and clothing materials made of synthetic fibres are subjected to.
Today, 85% of textiles and clothing are made from synthetic fibres, with polyester being the most widely used due to its low cost. While fast fashion is often singled out as the primary culprit, the entire fashion industry bears significant responsibility for global microplastic pollution. In fact, polyester is used transversally.
Polyester, washing clothes, and microplastic shedding
Fast fashion is particularly problematic due to its unsustainable business model, which continuously floods the market with new garments made from synthetic materials. These fabrics shed microplastics in the form of fibres, known as fibrils, which are less than 5mm in size and represent a significant contributor to the global crisis of microplastic pollution.
Every year, over half a million tonnes of fibrils are released into the oceans, primarily during domestic washing. The amount of fibrils released depends on the fabric composition; the higher the synthetic content, the greater the release. A single wash load can disperse hundreds of millions of fibrils into waterways, adding to those released during garment production.
For example, jeans—arguably the most ubiquitous garment—undergo aggressive treatments such as sanding, brushing, and washing with pumice stones. These processes exacerbate the release of fibrils and toxic substances, further intensifying the environmental impact.
Circular economy and behavioural change
To address this crisis, a systemic shift towards a circular economy is urgently needed. It is essential to start new behavioral habits, to prolong the life of materials. This would replace the current disposable model of “extract, produce, and discard” with one that prioritises sharing, repairing, recycling, lending, reusing, reconditioning and renting. However, this transition must be grounded in science.
Scientific knowledge, data, and analysis are essential to creating a virtuous cycle. Starting a common knowledge will also help fight greenwashing—a practice that undermines genuine sustainability efforts. Benefatto emphasises the importance of responsibility over mere sustainability, advocating for measurable actions rather than vague claims.
For instance, a 2018 study revealed that a single wash of synthetic garments can release between 700,000 and 1.5 million plastic fibrils. Scientific bodies have also compared two types of polyester fabrics: one made from continuous filament fibres (with fibres up to 1,000 metres long) and another made from shorter fibres (around 10cm long). The former sheds six times fewer fibrils than the latter, highlighting the importance of structural composition in reducing microplastic pollution.
Practical Steps: washing machine filters, fabric choices, and reducing fast fashion’s impact
Consumers can take practical steps to mitigate the impact of microplastics. For example:
- Washing machine filters: These can capture up to 90% of fibrils, preventing them from entering waterways.
- Special washing bags: Designed to contain synthetic garments, these bags reduce fibril release during washing.
- Fabric choices: Opting for natural or cellulose fibres, such as cotton, wool, or lyocell, can significantly reduce microplastic shedding.
Innovative materials like PLA (polylactic acid) fibre, derived from renewable resources such as corn starch or sugarcane, offer biodegradable alternatives. Similarly, biochar, a by-product of biomass, can be used to produce filter fabrics with natural antimicrobial properties.
In the design phase, prioritising durability, recyclability, and compostability is crucial. A cultural shift towards valuing quality over quantity is essential to limit fibril pollution. Ultimately, the market adapts to consumer demand, giving us the power to drive change.
The impact of microplastics in fashion – Final thoughts
Dalia Benefatto’s insights on the impact of microplastics on fashion resonated deeply, shedding light on both the harmful effects of fast fashion and the potential for positive change. Her emphasis on creating a shared scientific knowledge base to combat greenwashing was particularly inspiring.
However, the lack of an overall perspective that connects the dots across various sectors remains a challenge. For instance, Carlo Covini from Lenzing highlighted the confusion surrounding sustainable fabrics. While facing many options, consumers often struggle to identify the best choices. Imagine if clothing were limited to cotton and wool—global resources would quickly deplete. In fact, true sustainability lies in diversifying fabrics and materials, ensuring a balance between innovation and environmental responsibility. It’s not just one fabric.
In conclusion, the fight against microplastic pollution requires collective action, from scientific research to consumer behaviour. By making informed choices and advocating for systemic change, we can reduce the fashion industry’s impact on our planet and our health.
We hope you enjoyed our three-part series—comment below!
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