sustainablefashion

Being a Sustainability Critic: What does it really mean?

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Challenging greenwashing and holding brands accountable


Today, we want to explore the concept of being a sustainability critic: taking a critical approach to sustainability. What does it really mean?  Is being a sustainability critic about disregarding sustainability altogether? Or is it about caring so much that we refuse to be deceived by corporations and their marketing strategies?

Sustainability is often positioned as a key solution to climate change. However, can we really talk about solutions? Climate change is already a harsh, irreversible reality. As Rupert Read puts it, our only choice is to adapt to a world of climate extremes.

The point of being a sustainability critic


Being a sustainability critic means looking beyond surface-level claims and greenwashing to assess the real impact of brands, policies, and movements. It’s about:

1. Questioning corporate narratives
2. Exposing contradictions
3. Holding companies accountable for their environmental and social claims

A sustainability critic doesn’t just applaud “eco-friendly” initiatives. Instead, they ask: Is this truly sustainable, or just another marketing ploy? This attitude demands curiosity, scepticism, and a commitment to transparency.

Sustainability vs. corporate reality


Yesterday morning, we came across this news from The Business of Fashion:

“Patagonia, Nike and others have tried but failed to eliminate labour exploitation at key Taiwanese suppliers.”

“Brands like Patagonia, Nike and Lululemon have been working for years to address the exploitation of migrant workers at key fabric suppliers in Taiwan. Despite some progress, the issue has persisted.”

But isn’t Patagonia the brand that truly cares about sustainability? At least, that’s what they claim. Yet, time and again, the gap between corporate promises and actual practices is enormous. In fact, their actions simply do not match their words.

The truth about sustainable fashion


This is exactly why we need sustainability critics. It’s about cutting through corporate rhetoric, challenging greenwashing, and demanding real ethical standards.

The truth is simple:

• There is no sustainability in overproduction.

• There is no sustainability in exploited labour.

And for brands that continue to push their sustainable lies, there’s only one response: this is greenwashing.

Final thoughts


In conclusion, being a sustainability critic — or taking a critical approach to sustainability — is essential to avoiding deception by brands and corporations. In fact, if we want genuine sustainability in fashion, we must move beyond empty promises and hold brands accountable. It’s time to rethink the way we consume and demand radical transparency.

And you? Do you consider yourself a sustainability critic? Share your thoughts in the comments!

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Fashion in 2025: Navigating Political Influence and Economic Turmoil

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What lies ahead for the industry?


Fashion in 2025 navigates a delicate balance between political influence and economic turmoil. But what are the challenges and shifts shaping the industry? What lies ahead for the future of fashion?

Recent political events and ongoing wars (including the much-awaited but uncertain ceasefire in Gaza) have generated significant economic challenges, while Trump’s re-election in the US signals an unstable and tumultuous year ahead. Sustainability, once a key focus, has largely disappeared from the agenda, and consumer trust continues to erode.

Struggles shaping the fashion in 2025


If 2024 was a difficult year, 2025 offers little reprieve. According to a report by McKinsey & Company, 80% of fashion executives foresee no improvement in the global fashion industry this year. Furthermore, Trump’s re-election has sparked deep concerns across multiple fronts, with profound implications for the fashion world.

Trump’s proposed tariff hikes threaten to reshape trade flows. As The Times aptly headlines: “The Fashion World Fears High Tariffs”

President-elect Donald J. Trump has proposed a tax of at least 60% on goods from China—a move that could devastate small American brands. Counter-sourcing will likely become one of the biggest struggles for these businesses.

According to the National Retail Federation, Trump’s tariff proposals could increase apparel prices by 12.5% and footwear prices by 18.1%. If Chinese-made goods are hit with higher tariffs, the cost of everything from mobile phone cases to Barbies could skyrocket. In this scenario, pricier trousers may be the least of consumers’ concerns.

Most critically, “The idea that a substantial American apparel manufacturing industry could be revived overnight is a myth,” as designers point out. There are neither enough skilled workers to support such a transition, nor the infrastructure to sustain it. (source)

Yet, Trump’s politics won’t stop at America’s borders—European markets will also feel the strain.

2025: Market trends


The negative environment predicted a year ago has now taken hold. Consumers, having experienced a period of high inflation, are increasingly price-sensitive. Meanwhile, the acceleration of climate change and a marked shift away from sustainability further compound the challenges.

Economic uncertainty, geographic disparities, and shifting consumer behaviours dominate the fashion landscape. To remain relevant, brands must adapt—not by chasing fleeting trends but by proving their lasting value. Consumers demand more than just products; they seek alignment with their personal values and a genuine commitment to purpose.

The way forward


Fashion in 2025 resides at the intersection of political influence and economic turmoil. In a climate of instability, the question isn’t merely about survival but about meaningful evolution. Brands that centre their strategies on value and integrity will stand out. This means doubling down on quality, fostering transparent communication, and investing in long-term relationships with both customers and suppliers.

As we navigate 2025, let’s shift the narrative. Let’s champion resilience, creativity, and authenticity. In the face of adversity, fashion has the unique power to inspire and connect. Let’s make that the legacy of this challenging year.

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Why Recycling Fast Fashion Isn’t the Solution: An Industry on the Brink

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Europe’s textile crisis shows the limits of recycling in the age of ultra-fast fashion


Recycling is a key component for achieving a sustainable fashion industry, yet the rise of fast and ultra-fast fashion has pushed Europe’s textile recycling sector to the breaking point. In fact, a harsh truth has emerged: recycling low-cost, mass-produced garments is often both economically and environmentally unfeasible.

Recently, the European Recycling Industries’ Confederation (EuRIC) and Municipal Waste Europe (MWE) have issued an urgent call for financial and legislative support. Specifically, they warned that the current structure of fast fashion renders much of the textile waste essentially “unrecyclable.”

Ultra-fast fashion relies on cheaply produced, low-quality materials, which often combine synthetic and natural fibres. These blends complicate recycling, as separating materials is time-intensive and costly. Most concerning is the sheer volume of waste generated by the fast fashion industry, which overwhelms recycling facilities. At the same time, low-quality textiles degrade quickly, making them unsuitable for reuse.

This unsustainable model has led to a crisis, with EU textile exports plummeting and warehouses overflowing with unsellable items that may soon face incineration.

EuRIC and MWE argue that recycling alone cannot solve the issue of textile waste in Europe. Instead, the industry needs policy reform to address the root cause. Therefore, they urge EU policymakers to lower VAT for textile repair and reuse while introducing taxes on new petroleum-based materials to discourage fast fashion production. Also, the organisations call for stricter regulations to help curb waste from the outset. For instace, mandatory minimum recycled content for all new textiles.

In conclusion, without immediate intervention, Europe’s textile recycling industry could face severe setbacks, undermining its climate goals and threatening the future of sustainable fashion. Prioritising waste reduction, ethical production, and quality over quantity is essential to preserving both the industry – and the planet.

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Stefano Pilati and The Fashion Compromise

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Integrity or selling out to make a living in the fashion industry?


Stefano Pilati and his recent fashion compromise with Zara has generated significant buzz. However, this collaboration raises questions about selling out in the pursuit of profit. Let’s delve into the rationale behind this move and explore the broader dynamics of the fashion industry that often drive such decisions.

Niche fashion vs mass fashion


It’s important to distinguish between designing clothes for a limited niche and creating for the masses. In the first scenario, the designer gains prestige and glamour, ascending to the status of fashion’s elite. In the latter, the focus shifts to generating significantly more profit. There’s little reason for a renowned designer to collaborate with large fast fashion conglomerates. Except for the money. Especially when it involves a giant that, as the NGO Earthsight has revealed, contributes to the devastation of the Amazon.

Historically, designing for a niche market brought status but limited financial success. But in times of permacrisis, this becomes even more challenging as the niche shrinks, making the work less financially rewarding. It’s through this lens that we can interpret Stefano Pilati’s decision.

According to the launch statement from the Spanish giant, this capsule collection aims to embody a modern vision of dressing, promoting freedom of expression at its peak.

Of course for Zara, this is likely a winning formula: pair a renowned designer with a top model like Gisele Bündchen, styled in a chic Monica Vitti look, and bring in an iconic photographer like Steven Meisel to capture it all in a striking black-and-white campaign. And voilà! The result is a powerful image.

However, the conversation on social media revolves around a simple ‘do you like it or not’ debate, missing the deeper issues entirely. That’s not the point. What about the designer’s integrity? His consistency? Staying true to his vision? What about the respect for his audience and the trust built over time?

On a larger scale, how can people continue to trust an industry that sends such contradictory messages? A fashion industry that, in the pursuit of profit, is even willing to contribute to the devastation of the Amazon?

Integrity or compromise?


Yes, we get it. Making a living in today’s world is harder than ever. Even the TV news reminds us that having a job no longer guarantees a decent life. It’s unsettling, isn’t it? So, we can understand Mr. Stefano Pilati and his compromise with fast fashion.

But, the freedom of expression – as the partnership promotes – only holds meaning when it aligns with the reality around us, such as respecting workers’ rights and safeguarding natural resources.

And so, in response to the question of integrity or selling out to make a living: Can you think of any valid argument that justifies the morality of exploiting labour and destroying the Amazon rainforest?

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Repairing Your Clothes: the Future of Fashion

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What happens in a society that makes common sense revolutionary?


In a world where speed defines everything – fast living, fast fashion, and a buy-and-discard mentality – repairing your clothes, taking the time to mend a tear or patch a hole feels almost rebellious. It’s an act of care for your clothes and a gesture of respect toward the environment. But how did we get here? Why does something as simple as repairing clothes, once considered common sense, now feel like a radical act?

Repairing garments isn’t new. It’s been a fundamental part of human life for centuries. Clothing was once valued, made to last, and cared for. People took pride in their ability to prolong the life of what they owned. This wasn’t revolutionary – it was practical. Yet, today, what was once common practice has become radical. What happened?

The shift from repair to replace


The answer lies in the seismic shift from a culture of quality and longevity to one of cheap, disposable goods. Today’s products, especially in fashion, aren’t designed to last. Quality has become a marketing illusion, displayed in glossy advertising but rarely found in the garments themselves. The reality is quite different: overproduction at the expense of labour and the planet, cheap materials, and an endless cycle of overconsumption.

Industries thrive on our desire for instant gratification, conditioning us to constantly seek something new, rather than appreciating what we already own. Garments are produced so cheaply that we’re encouraged to replace them, not repair them. And even if we wanted to, the poor quality of most clothing makes proper repair nearly impossible. This is no accident – it’s the system at work.

The lost art of clothing repair


In this era of fast fashion and superficiality, the knowledge of how to repair clothing has faded. The skills once passeddown through generations, the time it took to mend and care for garments, have largely disappeared. We’ve lost touch with quality, and with it, the appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship.

But there’s power in reclaiming this lost art. Repairing your own clothes – even through creative acts like embroidery or transforming a garment’s shape – can be a deeply empowering experience. It allows you to take control of your wardrobe, customize your pieces, and express your unique style. In a sea of mass-produced sameness, mending becomes an act of individuality.

Why common sense feels revolutionary now


Why does repairing a simple tear feel revolutionary today? It’s because we’ve lost more than just the skill of mending; we’ve lost touch with the values that made such actions second nature. We’ve become disconnected from a meaningful, sustainable way of living, caught in the rush of overconsumption. We’ve lost our sense of balance with nature and with time itself.

But as the climate crisis deepens, more and more people are beginning to reconsider. A shift is happening. Repairing, recycling, and reusing – what once seemed outdated – are becoming vital again. Common sense is making a comeback, not because it’s trendy, but because it’s necessary. And in a world built on the logic of waste, common sense has become revolutionary.

Choosing quality, choosing repair


The truth is, you can’t repair what was made to be discarded. Fast fashion’s low-quality garments aren’t worth the effort. Choosing to repair your clothes means first choosing to invest in quality, in pieces that are worth mending. It means supporting brands that prioritize craftsmanship and durability over fleeting trends.

In the end, repairing your clothes isn’t just about sustainability – it’s about taking back control of a system that profits from our waste. It’s about returning to common sense, even if that feels revolutionary in today’s world.

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