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Change: Between Reality and Dream

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Post-pandemic fashion: illusions of change – A talk with Antonio Miranda


The alleged change brought in by the pandemic, and widely discussed in the fashion field, is mostly imanginary. We explored this topic in a conversation with Antonio Miranda, the designer behind the Anmi jewellery brand. With a lifetime of experience in fashion, Antonio offered unique insights into the industry.

Antonio invited us to the Piccolo Teatro to watch “Doppio Sogno” (Dream Story), by Arthur Schnitzler. Firstly, the show was absolutely stunning – far surpassing Kubrick’s film Eyes Wide Shut. Each character embodied multiple versions of oneself simultaneously, highlighting a dense psychoanalytical landscape. The interplay of mixed emotions and a profound flow of consciousness made the experience intensely captivating.
A special thank you to Ugo Fiore (assistant director and Antonio’s nephew) – we truly appreciated the opportunity!

However, before the show started, we exchanged some thoughts about fashion.

change
ANMI Collections – Made in Italy

Fashion and change


We quote Antonio Miranda:

“Those who changed because of the pandemic were already on that path before Covid19 hit. This is evident in the fact that most people either regressed or remained unchanged. And, look, in the fashion field, we talked endlessly about change. It seemed everything had to be different the following season. Well, now the fluff is even more pronounced.”

According to Anmi’s designer, those who changed were already sensitive to the topic. Somehow they were ready or at least open to it. In fact, they were on the route towards change. Therefore, the pandemic simply became the last drop or an invitation to take the next step.

But for the majority of people, nothing has changed – for the better, at least. And fashion remains stuck in the same cycle of emppty words – hot air, indeed.

In fact, the path towards change is individual. It is a matter of awareness and perspective. But, even though a shift in attitude depends on our journey, whatever our situation may be, we can get inspired by virtuous people and activities.

A play, a book, what we buy, define the universe we want. Let’s keep the door open, search for value, support and share it. That’s how we change!

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The Fashion Bullshit

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Exposing notorious fashion marketing empty claims


The fashion industry loves to discuss important matters that we would better describe as fashion bullshit.

How does the system work?
As soon as a new concept becomes popular in the fashion world, the proclamation is made. So the word spreads rapidly. As a result, marketing takes over the subject right away. And, once marketing steps in, you can feel the smell of it. What follows is an unmistakable sense of artificiality that permeates the entire communication strategy.

As voices outside the chorus, we’ve put together a list of some of the fashion bullshit: terms that, the more people in the field put at the centre of the discussion, the more they sound weird.

The fashion bullshit list

• New:
usually said about things done and redone. Again and again. Eye roll when you hear this word.

• Change:
a kind of mystical belief we like to talk about, but never happens.

• Luxury:
or the fake representation of it. What remains after the voluntary shift towards overproduction and mass distribution.

• Affordable luxury:
a total absurdity launched to compensate for the collapse of real luxury.

• Sustainability:
the biggest bullshit of our times. Most designers who wave this flag lack a distinctive design imprint, and as a result, have no real reason to exist.

• Diversity:
possible or allowed only in fashion shows or advertising.

• Inclusion:
possible or allowed only in fashion shows or advertising.

• Disability:
possible or allowed only in fashion advertising. But please, don’t show up during fashion event!

• Fluidity:
gender-fluidity is popular in fashion shootings. But when you go shopping, items are divided by categories. And so, the shop assistant kindly invites you to shop in the section assigned to your gender.

• Collaboration:
possible only as co-branding (sharing a profit). However, genuine exchanges are very rare among fashion professionals.

• Humbleness:
unreported, or simly missing.

Does anyone have anything to add to this list? We’d love to hear from you.

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Why Japanese Fashion

Reading Time: 3 minutes

The Point on style & Japanese aesthetic


Making the point on style by examining the international fashion panorama, helps answer the recurring question we often hear: why Japanese fashion?

Why is Japanese fashion design relevant in today’s global fashion landscape?

What is our prerequisite


On an international scale, we look for brands who have something to say, offer good design and a consistent expression of their vision. Also, we keep in mind the shift brought about by the pandemic: a return to the essence. So we curate a capsule selection of meaningful pieces.
“Less but better” means that there’s a reason for every garment we choose. So, every garment we choose serves a purpose.

A glimpse of the international fashion panorama


We are quite perplexed about the designers’ proposals we have seen lately. We noticed that many brands have lowered the bar offering poor quality and meaningless design, also labelled “sustainable,” which makes us laugh. Although some brands show beautiful dreamy lines, these have no context in our lifestyle, at least for now. So, we’ll keep an eye on them for the future.

The Italian situation, specifically, requires a deep analysis.
In short, after the demolition of Italian craftsmanship and after production was dislocated to other countries, Italian fashion is not at its best. Many brands have no soul or remain stagnant, offering no evolution. Many successful brands primarily sell the vision of a ‘sexy woman,’ which feels overly rooted in the status quo. We want to see something beyond the ‘sexy doll’ stereotype.

Why Japanese Fashion - an image of Japanese style by Plantation1982
Plantation1982


What leaves us perplexed is the direction that many international brands, considered the cool ones, are pursuing. If they aim to design a modern style, they repurpose a Japanese aesthetic. And so, the Instagram images are beautiful, but when you analyse the clothing design, the patterns, it’s clear where the inspiration comes from. In the end, there’s a common thread connecting brands from Italy, the U.K., North Europe or US. Despite their significant followings, they all reveal the same specific characteristics that strongly resonate with Japanese fashion design.

By the way, what we find somehow interesting is that those brands sell even to Japanese stores. In other words, the Japanese buy their own aesthetic made by someone else. If a Japanese buyer would illuminate us on this, we would be grateful.

Why Japanese fashion? Embracing original designs


In conclusion, why Japanese fashion?
Nippon offered a wealth of unconventional and advanced fashion design. What we notice as a commonality between Italian and Japanese cultures is the obsessive attention to detail and style. While drawing inspiration from Italian, European or international brands in general is acceptable, we do not expect them to replicate exaclty the same Japanese designs.

So, why Japanese fashion? Instead of opting for international brands with a Japanese aesthetic, we choose the original ones.

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The Wind of Instachange

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Navigating fashion’s social media revolution


The fashion system needs to change. In fact, social media accounts release various content on this topic, amplifying the conversation. New developments emerge, and the news has to be shared with everyone. Perhaps because they believe we haven’t heard this story yet.

The discussion about resetting the fashion industry started during the pandemic, although the system was in bad health a long time before. And the reason why it came out is not that it made sense to shift the approach by reinventing a stale system but because companies lost large amounts of money.
Indeed, money is the engine that drives the world. And apparently, finances are the only force capable of provoking any real shift. Many of those who operate in the system completely ignore the problems. Better avoid the risk of any further loss of capital.

Fashion system and change
Image via Ode to things Tumblr


However, the debate still goes on. Those who are aware of the multiple issues talk profusely and release interviews, podcasts. Top brands like to talk about change, but unfortunately, it is not tangible yet. Not even a hint of change.
Only a few smaller brands follow a different direction.

Real change or Instachange?


So we wonder if all the talks are just catchy content for social media, food for the so-called experts in the field who can show how cool they are by interviewing this or that designer. Yet, we fear that the entire debate will end up like COP26: nothing accomplished.

It is helpful to repeat concepts more than once because we tend to forget words quickly. And so listening again might help us keep the focus. But in the end, we must find solutions. If the fashion system needs to change, actions must follow the words. Otherwise, we’ll have beautiful Instagram graphics showcasing the wind of ‘Instachange,’ but no real progress will be made. So, we won’t solve any issue.

By the way, overproduction is the biggest concern in the fashion field. Any news about if and how are they going to solve it?

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No Black Friday Manifesto

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Towards a healthier lifestyle


No Black Friday Manifesto #formodernhumans
We stand against the ‘shop and toss’ habit, impulsive buying, and overconsumption.
A way of life that harms both people and the planet to the point of no return.
Indeed, these are layers of a toxic profit-oriented society that wants to create fake needs for unsatisfied individuals.
Undoubtedly, this system could not thrive without using tricks to sell the massive overproduction at the heart of its reckless structure.

On the contrary, we choose to educate ourselves on thoughtful consumption and a healthier lifestyle.

Quality and ‘less but better’ represent the guiding values. In fact, modern humans are conscious consumers.

We respect people, and we understand the worth of their work.
We appreciate the products we select.
We value quality, and we value our customers.

In other words, we believe in valuing what truly matters, not succumbing to mindless consumerism. Don’t buy pointless shit. Say no to Black Friday!

No Black Friday Manifesto


And once you are aware of how things are, let’s spread this consciousness together.

Once you become aware of how things truly are, it’s time to take action. Let’s spread this awareness together, creating a ripple effect that can inspire change and encourage others to make more mindful choices.

Please, share the No Black Friday Manifesto and help amplify the message! Together, we can challenge the culture of overconsumption and promote a more mindful, respectful way of living.

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