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Decoding Margiela’s Gallianification

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Exploring the impact of Galliano’s vision on Maison Margiela and the fashion industry


Decoding Margiela’s Gallianification, completed in the recent Artisanal SS24 couture show, prompts questions about the direction of the fashion industry.

As John Galliano fully embraces his creative role at Margiela, we witness a brand transfiguration under a new vision. The show, a clear display of Galliano’s aesthetic, raises inquiries about the essence of this transformation. Why not celebrate Galliano’s vision under his own brand name? What is the significance of reshaping Margiela into something it originally was not?

SS24 Haute Couture: Margiela’s Gallianification completed


A play of lights and shadows. In an underpass of the Seine, a theatrical representation showed the ritual of dressing, using the body as a canvas, attempting to express the emotional form of man. Like puppets moved by invisible strings, the models seemed to come to life step by step together with the clothes and accessories they wore. Lace, latex, very tight corsets, jackets and suits with visible stitching.
In fact, Margiela Artisanal SS24 couture show was one of the most beautiful during the recent Haute Couture Week in Paris. Definitely, Galliano knows what couture is. Yet, it was 100% Galliano and almost no trace of Margiela, if not for a few tabi shoes or the four-corner white-stitch of the logo.

A brief background

In 2011, Dior ousted John Galliano after a video emerged in which the British designer hurled anti-Semitic insults at a couple in a Paris bar. So, following the scandal, he was fired from his own fashion label, majority-owned by Dior.
In 2014, OTB – Only The Brave, Renzo Rosso’s company – appointed John Galliano as designer for Maison Margiela.
The news, to us, sounded like a joke. For instance, it was like asking Dolce & Gabbana to design Helmut Lang. Two different visions, opposite perspectives, indeed. Both should exist in the fashion industry, providing a diverse representation. Yet, each one under the creative guidance of a designer who can allow a specific sensibility to emerge.

Implications for the fashion industry


Of course, in the hands of Galliano, Margiela took a different turn. And now, with this Haute Couture skilful show, Gallianification of Margiela has been fully completed. Therefore, a reputable designer becomes the creative director of another label, taking just a few hints from the original designer. And in the end, celebrates his own vision of fashion, but under another brand name.

Perhaps, a revenge for Galliano in a field deprived of meaning. However, we wonder, what’s the point of this? Why doesn’t Galliano do Galliano under his own brand name? Why do they need to transform Margiela into what Margiela is not?

In the grand spectacle of Galliano’s creative takeover at Maison Margiela, the Margiela Artisanal SS24 couture show provided a poignant chapter in the ongoing saga of Gallianification. As the brand transforms under Galliano’s unmistakable vision, we’re left contemplating the broader implications for the fashion industry. In fact, this issue regards all the luxury brands in which the creative founder is no longer in charge. Specifically, we suffer for Margiela because we adore it, the original… Martin Margiela. In fact, we carried MM6 in our boutique in the past.

Decoding Margiela’s Gallianification unveils an absurd reality: an industry once celebrated for its idiosyncrasy now seems an empty vessel awaiting the next lucrative trend. Simply a game. But where is the fashion industry heading with these games?

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Behind the Seams: Fashion Industry & Forced Labour

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Understanding the joint roles of brands and consumers


Let’s delve “behind the seams” to unveil the link between the fashion industry and forced labour. The connection is robust, a topic often discussed yet incredibly overlooked by consumers despite the information.

In a recent post, we exposed the symbiotic relationship between luxury brands and fast fashion, both operating within the capitalistic framework. Today, we peel back another layer, examining recent cases.

Behind the seams of luxury brands


First, we happened to read a BOF post: “Luxury brands lag on efforts to reduce forced labour.” Reduce? But isn’t it appalling that brands discuss reducing forced labour instead of eliminating forced labour? By the way, the graphic in the attachment gathered luxury brands and fast fashion brands. All the most popular ones! (see it here).
Second, these days, the news reported the case of Alviero Martini. The company is under investigation for starving wages.

These two elements confirm our thesis: luxury brands and fast fashion share the same pattern, just for different pockets. But, above all, they highlight how deeply this issue is rooted in the fashion system, revealing it as a consolidated practice to maximise profit.

Also, it is interesting to notice that luxury brands often blame fast fashion while hiding their practices that are no different! Luxury brands exploit people’s work precisely as fast fashion does. Whatever the “made in” label says.

According to “Knowthechain” – a non-profit organisation:
“Today, an estimated 24.9 million people around the world are victims of forced labour, generating $150 billion in illegal profits in the private economy.”

Forced labour & modern-day slavery


Forced labour refers to individuals compelled to work against their will, under threat of punishment or coercion. In other words, individuals suffer exploitation as they are deprived of their freedom, coerced into labour without fair remuneration, and subjected to conditions over which they have no control. Forced labour can take various forms, including human trafficking, debt bondage, and other forms of modern slavery, and it is a violation of fundamental human rights as well as international labour standards.

Although condemned and prohibited by national and international laws, the practice is widespread. What’s worse? People, through their purchases, endorse this despicable system.

The fashion industry has no moral fabric, just as individuals who ignore the issue despite the available information.

Are you willing to shut your eyes when buying a logoed bag?
Did you know there’s an alternative? Small, independent brands offer luxury handbags with the finest materials, quality and skilled craftsmanship, all at just 1/3 the price of a branded bag. But while the logoed ones may be easy to sell, only a niche audience can appreciate true quality.

Your decisions as a consumer can shape an industry that values humanity over profit. Don’t compromise ethics over status.

What happens “behind the seams,” the dark connection between the fashion industry and forced labour, is extensively covered in the media. Read, share, and take action. But do not close your eyes. Ignorance is not an option; it’s time to confront the truth.

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Takeaways from Men’s Fashion

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Decoding Fall/Winter 24 menswear & gender neutrality


Here are our takeaways from Men’s Fashion Week in Milano and Paris. Let’s decipher the latest shows and presentations in the evolving landscape of men’s fashion and genderless designs.

No age boundaries with mixed-age models


Finally, the myth of eternal youth and perfection is questioned, and the idea of making fashion accessible to all ages conquers the runways. In fact, those who appreciate concepts like quality or tailoring aren’t typically young people. While the youth are too immersed in showcasing brands, some middle-aged individuals with unique styles value niche fashion over a big logo. Addressing independent thinkers directly through fashion shows gets straight to the point.

White for winter


Trousers, blazers, coats, knitwear or shirts in candid, pure, soothing white. Not only in wool but also in cotton. A kind of spiritual take. Specifically, the juxtaposition of white cotton garments with wool blazers emerged as a modern and effortlessly cool style. Although we know it’s not easy to sell, we adore it.

Punk fusion


Punk aesthetics took centre stage with elements such as zippers, leather garments, checks, stripes, and shoes featuring chunky soles. The revival of punk style, when blended with tailored clothes, creates a sublime and edgy fusion. It seems like punk never dies!

Genderless fashion & fluid identities


Silhouettes and styles are undeniably more fluid; identities on the runways are less defined. Moreover, men’s and women’s designs coexisted seamlessly in the same shows. The sense of sharing clothes is ingrained in our DNA, and we appreciate this style. However, despite embracing genderless fashion, the question arises: why maintain separate men’s and women’s fashion weeks? The potential for unification, discussed during the challenges posed by Covid-19, seems to have dissipated. Some, like Sacai, clarified their stance by naming the show: “Men’s Autumn/Winter 24 & Women’s Autumn 24.” But what’s the point of a double women’s show for an industry that strives for sustainability? Clearly, the industry’s commitment to sustainability remains inconsistent.

Conclusion


In conclusion, in light of our takeaways from Men’s Fashion, it is clear that the industry is grappling with a paradox: actions don’t align with principles. In fact, the industry talks about timeless fashion while being a sales-driven system. Promotes genderless fashion but maintains separate shows. Ultimately, it discusses sustainability but cannot stop revealing its inconsistency. To move forward, the fashion industry needs a more coherent and progressive approach.

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Fashion for Unstable Times

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Men’s Fashion Week in an industry seeking for direction


In the past, the concept of fashion for unstable times held a promise of the future. Now, that promise is shrouded in further uncertainty, casting a shadow of disorientation upon an industry that appears adrift.

From Milano, the men’s fashion journey continues in Paris, leaving us to ponder the industry’s quest for new dynamics. In the ever-evolving landscape of the fashion system, the search for direction is more pronounced than ever.

Men’s Milano Fashion Week witnessed a notable return to the classics. However, beyond aesthetics and communication, the undercurrent of turbulence in the industry was tangible.

Fashion industry: a field in profound transformation


Brands are undergoing a thorough reassessment, especially in terms of their structures. Indeed, the fashion world, whether in Milano or Paris, is immersed in a profound transformation. Maybe not even brands comprehend the magnitude of this change. In fact, despite the uncertainty, most of them continue flooding the market with new products, clinging to the notion that quantity begets success.

However, there’s a sense of bewilderment surrounding the industry’s decisions. Take, for instance, the trend of hiring musicians as fashion designers. Yes, we are talking about Pharrell Williams. One cannot help but wonder, what is the message behind appointing a musician as a fashion designer? How does the far-west Vuitton concept align with its traditional narrative?

Among the ambiguity, some designers stand out for their attempts to convey a message through their creations. For instance, Yohji Yamamoto portrays people of a certain age or unique young individual (like Wim Wenders and Hannah O’Neil). It’s as if he’s saying, “This is my audience.” In these subtle nuances lies an attempt to redefine the boundaries of fashion and challenge the conventional norms.

Unstable times: fashion seeking for direction


Whether it’s a return to classics in Milano, avant-garde choices in Paris, or unconventional appointments in the fashion design realm, the industry is in a state of flux. And the search for direction stands out among brands that seem lost.

As we navigate through fashion in unstable times, one thing is clear: change is inevitable. However, the extent of the current change is not yet understood.

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A Shift Towards De-influencing Fashion

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Men’s Milano Fashion Week: a new direction?


In a notable turn of events, Men’s Milano Fashion Week has revealed a shift towards de-influencing fashion.

During the three-day event, we noticed a decrease in the prominence of social media influencers. This shift appeared to be an attempt to redefine the role of fashion influencers, suggesting a potential change in the industry’s dynamics.

Yet the “pandoro gate,” which involved Chiara Ferragni (read more here), appears to have prompted a reconsideration of brand strategies. So far, whether brands liked influencers or not, they felt compelled to invite them. Now, something has changed.

Distinguishing two influencer categories


Examining the influencer landscape reveals two categories:
1- traditional celebrities who attain fame through acting, music, or wealth (they are just rich, so they automatically ascend to that state).
2- social media celebrities who build their public personas through continuous self-representation. They employ tactics to grow their audience, such as the unnerving follow/unfollow, bots or purchasing followers (even fake accounts).

Historically, the fashion industry maintained ties with conventional celebrities, although navigating their involvement with different rules. However, brands seeking cost-effective alternatives to traditional endorsements contributed to the rise of influencers – social media celebrities. Most importantly, this phenomenon transformed fashion into a carnival show and, in some instances, portrayed it as a vocation for those without substantial merit.

A shift in focus at Men’s Milano Fashion Week


The recent Men’s Milano Fashion Week has showcased a departure from the influencer-dominated scene. Shows like Prada and Dolce & Gabbana shifted the spotlight to traditional celebrities – actors, musicians, and rich kids – sidelining the ubiquitous Instagram influencers. No Instagram fluff!

While the “pandoro gate” may have played a role in brands reassessing their associations, it is evident that the symbiotic relationship with social media influencers is undergoing scrutiny. Brands, once content to profit alongside the “insta-fluff” phenomenon, now appear more discerning.

We have always been curious about why people buy products based on influencer recommendations, knowing they get paid to promote these products. Essentially, people contribute to fund their luxurious lifestyles by purchasing sponsored products. Just why? Aren’t they capable of independent thinking?

De-influencing fashion: the impact on audience dynamics


The strategic decision to feature traditional celebrities over showy influencers at Men’s Milano Fashion Week revealed a perceptible transformation in the event’s ambience. The shift towards established figures lent an air of sophistication to the audience, aiming to elevate the overall atmosphere. Also, it paved the way for a revitalised focus on the garments themselves.

With the spotlight redirected from ostentatious personalities to the garments, the runway presentations assumed a more cultured and nuanced tone.

A deliberate departure from the influencer-centric narrative would contribute to reviving an appreciation for the sartorial value and creativity that often take a backseat amid the fluff of social media-driven communication.

But is this shift towards de-influencing fashion a calculated, long-term strategy or a momentary pivot? Will it extend to Women’s Fashion Week?

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