overproduction

Enslaving Workers: Has Anything Changed?

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Examining the reality of modern exploitation and its impact on labour


It seems clear that our economic system is based on enslaving workers. That’s how it thrives—by keeping labor cheap and maximizing profit at the expense of human dignity. While the system flourishes, workers are left behind, their rights undermined, and their well-being compromised. This cycle perpetuates inequality and exploitation, making true progress seem elusive.

Here we quote an excerpt of Li Edelkoort’s talk from the Voices stage–via Business of Fashion. Edelkoort is one of the most respected trend forecasters. This talk is from 2015, definitely not something new.  So, why it’s worth sharing again? Because nothing has changed over time!

Li Edelkoort on enslaving workers and cheap deals


Low prices are enslaving workers and destroying cultural value. This is what Li Edelkoort said:

“The manufacturing of clothes has gone through a rapid and sordid restructuring process, which has seen production leave the western world to profit from and exploit low-income countries,” said Edelkoort. “How can a product that needs to be sown, grown, harvested, combed, spun, knitted, cut and stitched, finished, printed, labelled, packaged and transported cost a couple of Euros?” she asked, comparing fashion’s supply chain to slavery.

“On the hunt for cheaper deals, volume companies, but also some luxury brands, have trusted the making of their wages to underpaid workers living in dire conditions,” she continued. “What’s more, these prices imply the clothes are to be thrown away, discarded like a condom before being loved and savoured, teaching young consumers that fashion has no value. We should make legislation to have minimum prices.”

Has anything changed so far? 


Now, the question is: Has anything really changed? The answer is no. That’s precisely why it’s important to revisit this issue.

No one planned to find solutions. Brands and governments will never do it! A spontaneous act of understanding is not part of their plans. But the pandemic has contributed to exacerbating the situation. Many people lost their job, and the working conditions are even worse now.

Seven years after Edelkoort’s assertion, we are still just talking. And talking about change when nothing ever changes is frustrating. We value words, but without action, real change will never happen.

So we signed the “Good clothes fair pay” petition, which demands a living wage for the people who make our clothes. They need 1 million EU citizen signatures. 

Let’s help them!

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NO SALES: A Sustainable Act Of Consciousness

Reading Time: 2 minutes

What You can do to change for the better


It’s the second year of our NO SALES resolution: a sustainable act of consciousness. If you come across our activity by chance, you may discover now that we do not participate in sales or promotions anymore.

What is the reason?

The market is hyper-saturated, filled to the brim with disposable clothing. Heavy discounts and obsessive promotions are indicators of a sick system. In fact, they reflect an economy based on overproduction, compelling the relentless growth of fake needs. So, blind consumers are manipulated and induced to buy whatever products.

Sales are not a sustainable strategy


However, independent businesses or local and small activities cannot follow big corporations on this unhealthy plan. A system that exploits the environment and needs slavery to thrive.
Also, the retail price should take into account creativity, quality and labour. Therefore, fair wages for all the production chain.

Once we have realised the whole economic system is corrupted, we have decided not to conform to fashion standards anymore. And so, we have reduced the quantity we order every season. And by refining our selection, we opted for a capsule wardrobe focused only on meaningful garments.

Thsee are the guiding principles:

1- We don’t need quantity anymore
2- We choose quality and good design
3- We select items made to last
4- Fair wages for all the production chain

We are here to make something different, to change for the better. And to promote conscious fashion and slower consumption. If the status quo is what you still want to support, just look around–it’s everywhere. You don’t need us.

But if you have lost that frenzy and search for value instead, we are here for you. Uniqueness is our strength, you won’t find anyone dressed like you.

No Sales!


No sales represents a sustainable act of consciousness.
And it’s the ultimate sustainable economic model for a long-term approach that promotes creativity, quality, and fair wages.

It is time to stop conforming to a worldview that leads to destruction.

No sales mean less stuff, more meaning. It’s a radical and conscious lifestyle choice #formodernhumans

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The Society Of Fake Needs

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Unpacking the illusion of necessity in contemporary culture


Human needs: are they real or fake needs? Apart from the basic ones – essential to grant a decent life – human needs involve things that should improve our lives.

But, century after century, individuals have become needier. Or, to put it another way, we have just become spoiled. And if we add a high dose of ignorant and selfish behaviour, easy to detect in our society, the big picture becomes worrying.

We live for instant satisfaction, disregarding the effects of our actions. Among those side effects there are issues like global warming and garbage, so much that droughts have increased and the oceans are full of plastic.

Whether it is a sign of malaise or a sign of stupidity, this behaviour isn’t healthy. Therefore, some questions arise: do we really need all the products we consume? Or are ads just building fake needs to make money?

Advertising makes people believe so many things, and they buy without questioning. For instance, according to adv, we need vitamin supplements (all packed in plastic boxes). But the only thing we need is balanced nutrition, unless there are health problems, of course.
They make us believe we need expensive anti-wrinkles, even if nothing will erase a single wrinkle. Only plastic surgery can do that, another one of the reckless modern needs. And, it seems we cannot miss things like water added with hyaluronic acid or yoga pants. It’s a mystery how people could have practised yoga so far!

Also, they make us believe we need a new smartphone every year, so congrats on Chris Evans, who kept the same iPhone for seven years. Hey, seven years! We thought we were the only ones!

Do we need all those things advertising tries to sell?


So, human needs: are they real or fake needs? Do we really need all the things advertising tries to sell us? Surely not. Indeed we built a society of fake needs. And it is the byproduct of a capitalist model, which puts a cage around us. But, at the same time, we talk about sustainability. Or a worldview that, if taken seriously, has nothing in common with capitalism.

Now is the time to open our eyes and learn to discern rather than blindly believe what we’re told. Discernment requires thought—a valuable exercise in itself. If we want humanity to thrive, we must embrace conscious purchasing and thoughtful consumption habits.

Dedicating particular attention to the impact of our actions on the environment is crucial. It will help us understand that with fake needs, we go nowhere.

Learning to make better choices is the way out.

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The Upscale Drive

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Revising the (over)production model


Ending the diffusion lines is one of the strategies recently adopted by fashion maisons. Why this change of direction? And is it the start of a new business model?

What is a diffusion line?

The diffusion lines, also named second lines, are ready-to-wear collections whose name is similar or somehow recalls the designer’s name. The inspiration and design of these clothing and accessory lines come from the maison archive. But they get simplified in terms of patterns, working, and materials to offer the spirit of the brand at a lower price. More affordable, or relatively so. However, much lower compared to the main lines.

Main lines dominate the high-end market segment, which means they are expensive. However, if brands remained solely in this high-end segment, they would miss out on the majority of the market.

So, driven by greed and speed, brands launched diffusion lines as an opportunity to expand the business and maximise profits. Specifically, diffusion lines were conceived and produced for the mass market.

Apart from some trailblazers like Armani, whose Emporio line was born in 1980, many diffusion lines started spreading in the 90s and mushroomed during 2000. For decades brands focused on evergrowing, ever-expanding, overproducing, and heavy discounting policies. So they triggered a vicious cycle that led to an oversaturated market deprived of value.
Now, things are changing. Some fashion maisons are stepping back, embarking on a new—or not so new—path.

The new strategy: quitting diffusion lines


Recently, Valentino announced the discontinuation of its Red Valentino line starting in 2024—a diffusion line launched in 2003—to shift its focus more toward couture. Likewise, Chloè is to phase out its See by Chloé line over the next three years, addressed as a – “natural and necessary evolution for the long term.”

So, in the short term, brands have maximised profit through secondary lines. But, in the long run, this strategy has compromised the market and their own image.

Now the market is almost dead, and this forced them to change their path.
If fashion maisons want to stay relevant in an oversaturated market, they need to do some cleaning. Ending the diffusion lines will allow brands a more focused business model.

Though we do not expect they will stop overproducing, we are curious to see what they will do next!

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Mass Production or “Mess” Production?

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Quality vs quantity: exploring the impact of mass production on fashion and society


Mass production is an ongoing global phenomenon. Fast-Fashion, is no doubt, all about mass-production as you think.

Yet, even in the luxury world, high brands nowadays are attempting to produce more than ever to reach a broader range of consumers. Why? Because this is how they maximize profit. Speed and cost are everything they now prioritize. Indeed it’s a matter of speed and greed.

Charles Frederic Worth, an English fashion designer in the early 20th century, is today known as the father of Haute Couture.
His dresses required some fifteen yards of fabric and could take three to four hundred hours to embroider. For one client, the dress even needed a team of thirty seamstresses working full time because everything was entirely made by hand.

Yes, the handmade takes time, but do we still find or do the luxury brands still even care about such craftsman values?

Where are the values which we used to appreciate in the past?

Mass or “mess” production?


Luxury brands are now mass-producing their products to market mass consumers. Targeting a larger audience means bigger profits, they believe. However, their mass production has undervalued the noble past of fashion and diminished the true aesthetic.

They care only about profit, no longer the values.
It is such a “mess production” – in fact.

Resizing and reducing, not maximising


By having in mind the idea of Couture as a meaningful business model, brands should produce less and target a smaller audience. Therefore, selecting the right individuals who are capable of appreciating these values.

A rigid selection is what the brands need to do. They need to select whom to create rather than create for everyone.

“Less” is such a big keyword for luxury brands today, but there is something that should be “more”.
Time. More time for quality.
Because quality takes a lot of effort, patience and creativity. And so more time is a must.
Yet, that is the only way the true values of fashion can be revived.

✍️ A piece written by Kotono Sakai, a Japanese girl studying history and fashion at Cattolica University in Milan and interning for suite123

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