overproduction

Fashion Crimes: Dirty Cotton

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Earthsight Ong Linking European Giants to Illegal Activities in Brazil

According to the British NGO Earthsight, the cotton used by textile giants H&M and Zara to produce their clothes is dirty cotton.

Specifically, the NGO alleges that the two European brands are complicit in large-scale illegal deforestation activities in Brazil, including land grabbing, human rights abuses, corruption, and violent land conflicts. But this revelation is particularly alarming as it implicates Better Cotton, a certified sustainable cotton label. If you heard us say certifications worth zero, here’s the proof.

Fashion Crimes: The report on dirty cotton

Using satellite imagery, court decisions, product shipping records, and undercover investigations, Earthsight has compiled a report titled ‘Fashion Crimes.’ The result is a damning portrait! Cotton certified as ethical by the world’s largest certification system, Better Cotton, is found to be contaminated by numerous environmental offences. Also, this cotton is exported to various Asian manufacturers, producing approximately 250 million clothing items and household articles annually for H&M, Zara, and their sister brands’ global stores.

Fashion Crimes: dirty cotton - Report cover
Fashion Crimes: Dirty Cotton – read the full report here

The NGO has tracked the journey of 816,000 tons of cotton from two of Brazil’s largest agroindustrial companies, Horita Group and Slc Agrícola, in Western Bahia. Traditional communities lived in harmony with nature. But greedy agricultural companies serving global cotton markets attacked them and robbed their lands. The Brazilian families who own these lands have a lengthy history of legal proceedings, convictions for corruption, and multimillion-dollar fines for illegal deforestation.

Some of these illicit activities take place in the Cerrado region, a savanna renowned for its rich fauna and flora, constituting the second most important biome in Brazil. The Cerrado, which hosts 5% of the world’s species, saw a 43% increase in vegetation destruction in 2023. The clearing of Cerrado trees for agriculture generates carbon equivalent to the emissions of 50 million cars each year.

Environmental protection is a key issue for the European Union, which has included the new European Deforestation Regulation (Eudr) in the Green Deal. A program against climate change that encourages the consumption of certified raw materials and imposes restrictions on the importation of those produced in deforested regions.

“Earthsight’s year-long investigation reveals that corporations and consumers in Europe and North America are driving this destruction in a new way. Not by what they eat – but what they wear.”

Better Cotton: certifications & greenwashing

In conclusion, the NGO points the finger at Better Cotton, the world’s largest ‘ethical’ cotton certification system, with the raw material exposed as dirty cotton. Therefore, contaminated by various environmental offences. “BC has been repeatedly accused of greenwashing and criticised for failing to allow for full traceability of supply chains.”

Therefore, can we trust sustainable labels? No, of course not! Left alone, labels and certifications mean nothing. In fact, they are frequently used to mislead people. So, they are just greenwashing. Moreover, selling more green products is a strategy to support the overproduction model. So, it won’t solve any issue. (Download “The sustainability basics” checklist here).

Even though brands like Zara and H&M might use sustainable materials, the massive quantities they produce would nullify the sustainable effort. Why isn’t this clear? The solution is plain: we must produce and consume less. It’s the only viable strategy in the face of such devastation.
Consumers play a crucial role in perpetuating these harmful practices, often unknowingly. By reducing our consumption and demanding accountability from brands, we can make a real difference in protecting the environment and promoting sustainability.

While uncovering dirty cotton practices is crucial, it’s imperative to recognize that consuming less is fundamental for sustainability. Consume less: this is the action we must take now!

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Greenpeace: Stop Fast Fashion

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Take Action and Sign the Petition!

Greenpeace has just launched a new petition urging people to stop fast fashion. The issue is very dear to us,  indeed, our perspective on fashion stands in stark contrast to this. So, we invite you to read and take action.

Notice: The content presented in the post is sourced from Greenpeace investigations and reports.

Fast fashion: a polluting and unsustainable industry

Clothes sold and returned immediately. Accessories designed to last only one season. Destined to break within a few weeks. And soon ending up in landfills or in the Global South. With mass production, low quality, and ridiculously low prices, the fast fashion industry generates enormous amounts of waste and pollution. And behind the false promises of sustainability often lies greenwashing and a devastating environmental and social impact.

Fast fashion in 3 numbers:

  • 25%: the percentage of new clothing unsold and discarded every year
  • 1 second: every second, a truckload of discarded clothing is either burned or thrown into landfills
  • -1%: it’s the amount of clothing that is actually recycled into new garments.

Every year in Europe, 230 million pieces of clothing get destroyed.

Greenpeace: stop fast fashion clothing discarded in Africa
Image credit: Greenpeace

Textile fibres

Over 60% of the textile fibres (acrylic, polyester, nylon) used to produce our clothing are synthetic fibres, and many are derived from hydrocarbon refining, such as gas and oil. Polyester, derived from petroleum, begins to release microplastics after the first few washes, which end up in the oceans and then move up the food chain, also in our food. The fossil fuel industry grows and proliferates thanks to fast fashion as well.

The dark side of the most famous brands

  • Shein: According to 2022 data, many of its garments contain toxic substances, with some exceeding legal limits, particularly phthalates, up to 600% of the legal limit.
    (source: Greenpeace investigation 2022)
  • Nike, Ralph Lauren, Diesel: A 2022 investigation demonstrated that waste from the production of clothing and footwear for these three brands was being burned in brick kilns in Cambodia, exposing the involved workers to toxic fumes.
    (source: Greenpeace/Unearthed investigation)
  • Amazon, Temu, Zalando, Zara, H6M, OVS, Shein, Asos: Clothing returned after purchase on the most famous e-commerce platforms travels up to 10,000 kilometres and often is not resold.
    (source: Greenpeace investigation 2024)

Online returns: clothing travelling up to 10,000 kilometers

Clothing purchased and then returned multiple times. Parcels of clothing travelling for tens of thousands of kilometres between Europe and China, with no cost to the buyer and minimal expenses for the producing company. But with huge environmental impacts. This is what emerged from the Greenpeace Investigative Unit Italy investigation, which, for about two months, in collaboration with the television program Report, tracked the journeys of some garments in the fast-fashion sector purchased and returned through e-commerce platforms. It revealed a schizophrenic logistics chain, extremely long journeys, and the environmental impact in terms of equivalent CO2 emissions.

Sustainability? It’s just greenwashing!

Fast fashion companies promote their supposed sustainability and respect for better working conditions by stating on labels that their clothing items are produced with a lower environmental impact. However, it often amounts to nothing more than greenwashing. Our investigation of 29 brands has revealed the truth, and globally recognized brands such as Benetton Green Bee, Calzedonia Group, Decathlon Ecodesign, H&M Conscious, and Zara Join Life, just to name a few, have received a red mark regarding the credibility of the statements on their labels.

Greenpeace: sign the petition!

In conclusion, fast fashion, the ultra-rapid fashion sold at very very cheap prices, is not harmless. Unfortunately, the low prices are achieved through the exploitation of workers and harm to the environment. Of course, it wouldn’t exist without modern-day slavery. However, there are alternatives to fast fashion for every budget, for instance, vintage, second-hand and slow fashion. Most importantly, it’s a matter of education and awareness, accessible to all. No excuses left!
So, take action now by signing the Greenpeace petition to stop fast fashion and protect our planet! 👉 sign it here!

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What Happened to Slow Fashion?

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An Opportunity Lost in the Shadows of Rapid Change

What happened to slow fashion? As the foundations of the old world crumble, the emergence of a new one is fraught with struggles. Amidst this turmoil, we find ourselves pondering the fate of slow fashion.

Fashion industry: contradictory news

Headlines boast of growth and soaring sales for some brands, yet these reports seem akin to acts of sleight of hand, illusion games. Indeed, they prioritise the interests of banks over the stark realities that surround us. Moreover, these narratives clash with reports of top conglomerates stockpiling billions in unsold inventory.

In the relentless cycle of overproduction, an increase in output translates to a surge in revenue. However, much of this surplus finds its way to the incinerator rather than into the luxury retail.

Further underscoring the disintegration of the traditional fashion world are the ongoing bankruptcy reports. Most recently, Matches Fashion has found its place on this list. The Fraser Group, two months after the acquisition, claims the luxury e-tailer is on the brink of insolvency, a casualty of slowing demand for high-end products. Fraser laments: ‘The company systematically missed the targets of its business plan and, despite the group’s support, continued to record significant losses.’

Deciphering the destiny of slow fashion

In the wake of the pandemic-induced instability, sustainability has emerged as a cornerstone of discourse. Slow fashion, heralded as a rational solution to the problem of overproduction and resulting surplus inventory for shops, has garnered significant attention.

So, we’ve seen a lot of talks, round tables with the usual experts. Of course, by giving a voice to the same names that had caused the overproduction issue. A possible solution emerged, but after a few years of discussions on slow fashion, almost no one talks about it.

So, what happened to slow fashion? Was it just a temporary marketing strategy? Indeed, it languishes in obscurity, championed only by a handful of new brands struggling to gain traction. Meanwhile, the fashion industry remains wedded to antiquated profit models, heedless of its impending catastrophe.

The truth is, the world of fashion as we have known it has long been on shaky ground, particularly since the 1990s. But this reality holds little sway over the major players who continue to prioritise short-term profit over long-term sustainability.

Despite appearing as a missed opportunity amidst the whirlwind of rapid change, our commitment to and belief in slow fashion remains unwavering. We wholeheartedly support its principles and practices.
Please don’t hesitate to reach out to us with any thoughts or reflections you may have on this matter!

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Hints of Sustainability at PFW

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Are These Sustainability Efforts Credible?

On the last days of Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 24-25, hints of sustainability emerged. Yet, amidst these hopeful murmurs, recent revelations cast a shadow of doubt over the industry’s commitment to genuine change.

Stella McCartney’s fashion show opened with a call to action to save the planet. In the video, Mother Nature sends a message to humanity: “It’s About Fucking Time.” Perhaps gentle words are no longer sufficient to spur the necessary transformation. Indeed, the stark reality of increased pollution rates this year tempers our optimism.

Apparently, Stella McCartney, an environmental activist, operates through sustainable practices. In fact, the media present her as one of the brands more involved in the discussion around sustainability.

However, reports from Business of Fashion unveil staggering figures of unsold inventory weighing heavily on these conglomerates. We quote B.O.F.: “LVMH and Kering are grappling with billions of dollars of unsold inventory.”

Analyzing sustainability hints and related news

Now, let’s compare the two pieces of news in an attempt to understand more about sustainability. In this juxtaposition, a disconcerting dissonance emerges.

LVMH and Kering are the largest conglomerates in the fashion industry. LVMH owns Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Dior, Fendi, Celine, Kenzo and many more. Kering owns Gucci, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, McQueen, Saint Laurent, and more.
Despite both groups having billions of dollars of unsold inventory, they have made countless new samples for the fashion weeks. No one tried to create beautiful presentations with fewer garments. Moreover, they are ready to churn out tons of new clothes and accessories for the Fall/Winter 24-25 season.

In 2019, Stella McCartney signed a deal with LVMH group to accelerate its worldwide development in terms of business and strategy. Before, the designer partnered with the rival conglomerate Kering. So, McCartney stands at the intersection of conflicting narratives.

Can a designer embedded within a behemoth corporation, driven by perpetual growth and overproduction, truly champion sustainability? Stella McCartney’s game recalls the manoeuvres politicians play. Perhaps sustainability in fashion remains a game of optics, a veneer to placate conscientious consumers.

Conclusion: unanswered questions

The hints of sustainability that emerged at Paris Fashion Week appear diluted, if not altogether illusory. The sobering reality of overproduction and the unsolved dilemma of excess inventory force us to confront uncomfortable truths about the industry’s commitment to change.

In conclusion, lingering questions remain with us: What fate awaits the mountains of unsold garments? Will they be incinerated, shipped off to distant shores, or left to languish in forgotten warehouses? And can we truly place our trust in designers who navigate the corridors of power within colossal conglomerates?
The answers to these questions may hold the key to unlocking a more sustainable future for fashion. One grounded not in superficial gestures but in substantive action and genuine accountability.

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Florence Luxury Leather Goods in Stagnation

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No Orders, Overproduction Trap Leads to Thousands on Furlough

It is concerning that Florence luxury leather goods compartment is experiencing stagnation.

Specifically, “Il Corriere Fiorentino” titled: “in Florence the luxury district is stuck: no orders from the brands and 4.000 workers on furlough.” The article says that it’s been many weeks that the area of Scandicci is on alert. The fact has been discussed for a few months but hasn’t officially emerged due to the social safety nets. However, the latest data from the syndicates exceeds the level of concern. Moreover, it seems that around Florence, warehouses are packed with unsold goods and can no longer contain them for space reasons.

What caused the leather goods stagnation in Florence?

Apparently, the perfect storm hit the luxury leather goods field: inflation and international crises reversed more on the middle class, the main target of accessible luxury leather goods. As a result, 250 companies that typically produce for luxury and affordable luxury brands are now facing the threat of downsizing or closure. On the contrary, it’s interesting to notice that the fast fashion area in Prato is thriving. There’s no sense of sustainability, but with low prices, people don’t care about being sustainable.
Also, the mechanization of production implemented to churn out more pieces in less time represents another possible cause.
Currently, there is an ongoing negotiation between the representatives of the workers’ unions and the most important international fashion brands that make production in the area.

A brief background

The Florentine leather tradition is renowned worldwide. Upon fully embracing the capitalistic framework, companies planned the relocation to China to maximise profit. Please forget the “made in” labels… Then, COVID-19 dismantled this system by interrupting production chains and long-distance delivery. So, we witnessed the re-shoring: brands repositioned production in Italy. Yet not to reward or develop artisanal production but rather for large quantities and numbers. In other words, the scheme tells a story of mass production and eternal growth. Now, the mechanism has jammed.

In conclusion, the stagnation of Florence leather goods compartment has resulted in a huge surplus of luxury and affordable handbags in storage. Perhaps the fashion industry can put down the mask of sustainability.
So, we wonder, how can brands still plan their fashion business on overproduction? How consciously do brands approach the new Fall/Winter 24-25 sales campaigns releasing numerous new items?

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