overproduction

Fashion Brands and Russian Oil

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How fashion is funding the Russian conflict


Have you ever thought there’s a link between fashion brands and Russian oil? Yes, your mass-produced clothing might be indirectly fueling the war in Ukraine.

Changing markets Foundation released the report: “Dressed to Kill: Fashion brands’ hidden links to Russian oil in a time of war.”
This investigation uncovered hidden supply chains connecting fashion brands and Russian oil. So, purchasing some specific polyester clothing might be a way to fuel the war in Ukraine.

Fashion & Russian oil – the connection


Major Indian and Chinese polyester producers source oil from Russia to make synthetic fibre. Then, they sell yarn and fabrics to garment manufacturers, who, in turn, produce clothes for well-known fashion brands.

Even though many countries have imposed sanctions on Russia, they continue selling clothes made with Russian oil. So, in the end, these same countries are financially supporting Russia’s economy during the invasion of Ukraine. Also, the research highlights links with Saudi Arabia and fracked gas from the US.

We invite you to watch this video:


Fossil fashion thrives on overproduction and an infinite growth system, a clear expression of capitalism. But, as we can see with our eyes, exponential growth is not sustainable for our planet. Indeed, it pushes people toward overconsumption of cheap garments, fostering that buy-use-toss behaviour typical of our society. A toxic consumption habit which, in turn, led to a spiralling waste crisis.
The result is a massive exploitation of people and the planet, with an immense climate cost.

Are your clothes made with Russian oil?


Cheap fashion brands are attractive, but someone else pays the cost: exploited people and our burning planet. And you may also end up supporting Russia’s war.

So, be mindful and choose quality items made to last. One quality garment is better than two bags full of fast-fashion garbage!

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Generation Z & Sustainability

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Exploring what young consumers truly know about sustainability


The topic of sustainability has a warped meaning and understanding amongst most consumers today, Generation Z included.

Gen Z is said to be the upcoming generation for a positive environmental shift in our society. This generation has been at the forefront of the sustainability movement. Pushing companies and brands to conduct sustainable practices in an effort to save the planet we are destroying.

What sustainability means to Generation Z

But does this young generation truly know what sustainability means?
Unfortunately, this “green movement” has become misunderstood as greenwashing. With the lack of research and education on environmentalism, brands have been able to blatantly lie to their consumers. By engaging in greenwashing tactics, they conveyed an image of sustainability and ethicality that simply does not exist to them.

It is now the responsibility of the younger generations to wake up, and do their research. And hold these brands accountable for their greenwashing schemes and harmful environmental practices.

The research on Gen Z

I spent some time interviewing college students currently studying abroad in Milano to understand their point of view. What sustainability means to them. And how they practice it in their daily lives. From these conversations I concluded a distorted idea of greenwashing and an unhealthy practice of overconsumption.
All this is due to a lack of transparency between brands and consumers. When discussing the students knowledge of sustainability or familiarity with the term ‘greenwashing’, I received a variety of answers. Many had never heard of greenwashing or how it affected the choices they make daily.

The truth on Gen Z & sustainability

Students told me that sustainability meant being cautious and putting the environment first. Also, an item or lifestyle alleged to be sustainable, can be trusted with no further questioning. Such contradictory answers surprised me. How can one be cautious yet trust that the word ‘sustainable’ is 100% true?

Students attest to practising sustainability by donating clothes, vintage or thrift shopping, and creating capsule wardrobes. But, when asked what brands they typically shop from, the most common response I received was some of the brands guilty of the greatest greenwashing techniques. The brands these students shop from attest to caring for the earth and market themselves as “conscious” or “committed” to sustainability. Yet still participate in mass overproduction.

Although students brought up capsule wardrobes quite often, overconsumption still seems to have a huge hold on this generation due to the hyper-fast fashion movement. Students claimed to go shopping regularly, at least once a month.

An advice I can give to this generation who yearns for a more sustainable lifestyle is to question everything you see. Don’t support brands that shout about sustainability to sharpen their image for the purpose of gaining social acceptance. But a brand that does good because they care. The word ‘sustainable’ is not regulated and, ultimately, does not need to hold any truth. So, when you see that buzzword word on a tag, don’t forget to fact-check that claim.

Generation Z seems to have an interest, and desire for a more sustainable earth. But, unfortunately, lacks the inclination to question the brands they shop from. Hiding behind the term “ignorance is bliss” is not a viable excuse for a dying planet screaming for change.

✍️ A piece written by Leyla Jackson – apparel merchandising student from Washington State University. Currently studying at Università Cattolica Del Sacro Cuore in Milan and interning for suite123. Passionate about working towards a more sustainable future for not only the fashion industry, but our planet.

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How To Change the Fashion Industry

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A few constructive ideas and basic principles for meaningful change


We discussed climate change as a direct effect of humans’ actions and the fact that the fashion industry plays a role in this. Also, that it’s impossible to avoid the impact of humans on the planet.

However, a vision of possibility opens up new opportunities. This is why we strive to find solutions and be a part of them. If we cannot avoid our impact, the challenge is implementing ways to limit it. How can the fashion system reduce its impact on the planet?

Ideas to change the fashion industry


Forget big numbers or large-scale productions
The impact that big numbers have on the environment is much higher. Therefore, they aren’t sustainable. Never!
Brands that sell clothing or other products made with sustainable materials but produce huge quantities aren’t sustainable.


Small-scale companies
Small manufacturers, brands, and designers are the future. Handcrafted smaller productions made with sustainable materials would create healthier production chains. Also, designers would make products for different market segments, from affordable to luxury. Small is beautiful, and it gives a long-term solution.

How to change fashion retail


Small-scale retailers offering a more focused and balanced selection can be part of the solution by ordering the number of goods they need and reordering during the season if they need more. Indeed, a made-to-order basis would be the best way to dismantle the overproduction system–a pattern that asks retailers for unrealistic budgets and causes huge unsold stock.

Less quantity, more quality


Less quantity ordered by retailers means higher quality–less but better. Also selling goods during the season. So no heavy discounts and no sales, but a well-balanced system that provides value, not exploitation.

In the end, small businesses can better adapt to change and have a more controlled production chain. In fact, we need to consider these points if we want to shift towards a sustainable industry.

Perhaps top brands will never accept a small-scale system because they wouldn’t maximise profit. Indeed, it makes capital accumulation more difficult. So it will be interesting to see how they will promote sustainability without addressing these crucial factors.

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How Products Change

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Changing fashion to change our culture


Products change when consumers’ tastes change. In other words, products evolve as consumers’ tastes shift. However, given that consumption is all about cheap and disposable products, we are in big trouble.

The fashion industry appeared to be moving in a new direction, aiming to preserve the environment and improve people’s lives. But reality revealed even more troubling consumption habits, as in the case of ultra-fast fashion, which we discussed in our previous post.

The combination of overproduction and overconsumption is the economic pattern that dominates the fashion industry—a model mirrored across many other sectors. Therefore, this reveals a deeper cultural issue: the growing preference for disposable products, a habit that has also deeply influenced younger generations. In fact, accessible, cheap products give the illusion of richness.

Mass culture is the commercialisation of culture, where products products are created solely for profit. People are so immersed in this overwhelming abundance of options that it feels nearly impossible to escape. Or at least, that’s how it appears.

But climate change is the issue we need to face, and it’s urgent. And so, how do we change consumers’ tastes?

Change products: fashion and culture


Changing fashion means changing culture. Fashion creates products that reflect our culture, revealing society’s tastes. In this way, fashion tells the story of what we consume. In other words, altering what we consume leads to changes in fashion, and ultimately, in our culture.

The change begins by recognising the new needs and incorporating them into the design of meaningful products for people who care.

As a boutique and industry insiders, we contribute by curating only valuable garments with good design. And by offering a different perspective for people like us, those who do not recognise themselves in the mass trends.

Your choice, if you care, is evolving towards a conscious lifestyle aiming to change for the better. Or leave things the way they are, persisting with the blind exploitation of people and the planet.

In the end, you have two options: either you can play the game, or you can change it!

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From Fast To Ultra-Fast: A Cultural Regression

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Is ultra-fast fashion what people learned from the pandemic?


From fast to ultra-fast fashion, we are witnessing a cultural regression in the fashion industry. And so, in our society. Something that makes you question the human ability to learn, especially in the face of such serious events we have lived in lately.

Forget the long-awaited thoughtful consumption habits! Started after the pandemic, this trend represents a sharp and clear setback.

To reduce its impact on the planet, the fashion industry was supposed to evolve, experimenting with new sustainable paths. The pandemic, which worked as a catalyst, highlighted this urgent matter. Therefore, a more balanced structure and timing, shorter production chains, and healthier consumption habits seemed a conscious evolution to pursue. A need to change for the better.

The ultra fast growth


Unfortunately, the industry shifted from fast fashion to ultra-fast fashion! And you know what? Consumers really loved it!
Astonishing–that is the biggest change trending everywhere.

Now with 5€, you can buy a dress. Certainly, this new production trend is more polluting than fast fashion. But does anyone care? Even if it is more polluting, ultra-fast fashion has become very very popular.

Ultra-fast fashion and resale


Apparently, at the same time, the resale of extremely poor-quality items is growing. But what is the point of reselling ultra-fast fashion garments? Reselling garments made with a zero concept of durability is just smoke and mirrors.

Indeed reselling garbage clothing that, if you are lucky, will survive the first wash simply hides a push towards overconsumption. The industry produces more and more cheap garments, and as a consequence, both young and not-so-young consumers continue to buy more and more pieces. And they can even resell those items, but the overconsumption trick behind it is clear.

All of this has nothing to do with sustainability. So, when they say Gen Z prioritises sustainability, what are they talking about? And what do they mean by sustainability?

The wrong answer


After the pandemic, the fashion industry shifted from fast to ultra-fast fashion, generating mountains of garbage clothing with a tragic impact on both people and the planet. However, the problems we are witnessing won’t be solved by producing more and consuming more! Yet, it seems that very few people truly care. Do you care?

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