milanofashionweek

Fashion weeks are mirrors: Notes on Milano Fashion Week SS26

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Creativity and new directions in a time of uncertainty


Fashion weeks are mirrors. They don’t just display clothes—they reflect the tensions, aspirations, and anxieties of our times. This Spring/Summer 26 season in Milan, themes of escape, utility, and transformation emerged, reflecting an industry grappling with its role.

And so, following our examination of these overarching tensions at Milano Fashion Week SS26, we now share some notes on the collections that defined the season. 

The collections: A spectrum of responses


Diesel: Glenn Martens moved beyond the traditional catwalk, staging a scavenger hunt across the city with looks hidden in giant plastic eggs. This playful, decentralised show challenged the conventional fashion week format.

Jil Sander: Simone Bellotti’s debut focused on 90s minimalism. A remarkably clean choice that showcased the body through cuts inspired by Lucio Fontana. Indeed, the house described it as “a balance between classicism and modernity.”

Marras: The show was a poetic journey interweaving literature, art, and fashion. Inspired by a Sardinian sojourn imagined for the Bloomsbury Group, models paraded among salt flats with books tucked inside. The collection, in soft, whispered colours, featured lines that were either flowing and fluid, or androgynous and structured, shaping a universe that blended cultures.

Fendi: The collection emphasised leggerezza (lightness), colour, and an essentiality that embraced both the feminine and the masculine. It stood out as a conceptual and material dialogue, particularly in pieces woven from multiple colours, showcasing exceptional craftsmanship and technical skill.

Prada: Offered a proposition for dressing in uncertain times with an accent on colours. Can vintage be modern? The answer was a masterclass in layering volumes and colours into contemporary uniforms. The collection was described as a “response to uncertainty—clothes that can transform, change and adapt,” granting the wearer “autonomy” and designed with “meaning and utility” for surviving the modern world.

Moschino: Creative director Adrian Appiolaza asked, “What if value doesn’t come from cost but from really going deep into creative ideas?” Inspired by Arte Povera and the brand’s native irony, the collection found preciousness in humble materials like jute, championing reuse, recycling, and upcycling.

Dolce & Gabbana: As the cast of The Devil Wears Prada entered the show, the line between reality and cinema blurred. The knowing giggles shared between Anna Wintour and Miranda Priestley (Meryl Streep) were a noteworthy moment. But we wondered why an entire collection focused on pyjamas, which isn’t even a new concept. 

Bottega Veneta: Under the new creative direction of Louise Trotter, the brand saw a strong debut. She worked masterfully with volumes and three-dimensional textures intrinsic to the brand, developing a rich and sophisticated minimalism.

Versace: Now part of the Prada Group, Dario Vitale debuted with a Miu Miu-ish touch. Colours and a mix of prints, bold and flirty tailoring for a modern 80s-inspired Versace.

Final thoughts: Fashion weeks are mirrors


In conclusion, we take these notes on the Milano Fashion Week SS26 partly for ourselves — to trace the currents shaping the industry and what we might expect next. And yes, we intentionally skipped Demna’s Gucci, because we simply don’t get the point.

Italy’s heritage of craftsmanship, design, and quality remains a source of immense pride. Yet, fashion cannot be considered in isolation. In fact, the central issue is not any single brand or show; it is systemic. It is capitalism — a pattern repeating across industries worldwide. But why does everyone ignore it?

Fashion weeks are mirrors. The SS26 season proves that creativity is not dead — it’s restless, searching, sometimes playful, sometimes profound. Yet behind the spectacle, fashion continues to wrestle with questions of value, responsibility, and purpose. Until those deeper contradictions are addressed, each season will remain both a dazzling act of imagination and a stark reminder of the system that contains it.

Fashion weeks are mirrors: Notes on Milano Fashion Week SS26 Read More »

Aesthetics and anxieties at Milano Fashion Week SS26

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

The fashion week unfolds between creative visions, the rising cost of luxury, and a crisis of relevance


Dedicated to one of its founding figures, Giorgio Armani, Milano Fashion Week SS26 opened in a climate of stark contrasts: aesthetics and creative visions on one side, mounting industry anxieties on the other. This tension was formalised on 24 September. The Camera Moda gathered Italy’s top fashion executives at Casa Cipriani to defend the future of Made in Italy. Figures including Luigi Maramotti (Max Mara), Renzo Rosso (OTB), Remo Ruffini (Moncler), Alfonso Dolce (Dolce & Gabbana), Gildo Zegna, and Lorenzo Bertelli (Prada) joined Carlo Capasa, the institution’s president, to advocate for safeguarding the national value chain through creativity, sustainability, and stricter regulation.

While the debuts at Gucci, Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta, and Versace generated excitement, this edition also encapsulates the heritage of Italian fashion alongside its most pressing challenges.

The atmosphere is vibrant, with buyers searching for direction and designers striving to deliver it. Yet beneath the surface, unease is palpable. Deep economic instability, no clear plan B for Trump tariffs, sit alongside the persistent shadow of labour exploitation, with high-profile investigations still haunting several luxury houses. 

“We have an immense know-how that goes back a long way and we want to defend what our predecessors built,” Gildo Zegna stressed, pointing to the need for production control in volatile markets. Renzo Rosso, meanwhile, reiterated OTB’s pillars of “creativity, sustainability, and technology.” He warned that without creativity, “a product is nothing more than an object.”

But there is also tension in the narrative. Industry leaders call for optimism, even warning that “negativity impacts store traffic,” as Rosso put it. At the same time, Lorenzo Bertelli identified inequality as the greatest threat to the sector. Luigi Maramotti’s observed that “the consumer is confused” in a world where Europe’s sustainability efforts are undermined by divergent standards elsewhere.

The contradictions cut deep. Carlo Capasa defended the industry against accusations of widespread illegality. He cited Istat figures that suggest around 2–3% of production involves irregular labour. Still, he acknowledged the need of a new legislation to regulate and protect the supply chain. That is “the basis for saving the industry.”

And yet, a striking admission lingers. A while back, Miuccia Prada said:

“Fashion is for when you do not have problems. The moment someone has a health problem or there is a war, fashion is certainly not relevant.”

That perspective clashes with the industry’s insistence on optimism as a survival strategy. In a world marked by war in Ukraine and genocide in Gaza, fashion’s plea to “stay positive” risks sounding disconnected.  And with this background, whether NY, London, Milano, or Paris, we are all on the same boat.

The shows go on, between aesthetics and anxieties. But the fundamental question remains: what is fashion’s responsibility in the face of a crisis of relevance, inequality, and value acknowledged by its own leaders?

Aesthetics and anxieties at Milano Fashion Week SS26 Read More »

A focus on brand identity at MFW FW25/26

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Milano Fashion Week: codes above all else


Most luxury brands at Milano Fashion Week Fall-Winter25/26 placed a strong focus on brand identity—their unique DNA. In other words, they highlighted what defines them and sets them apart.

So, from Prada to Moschino, MM6, Marras, and Dolce & Gabbana, the emphasis on preserving a distinct identity emerged as the path to follow.

A few notes on MFW FW25/26: focus on brand identity


Antonio Marras: The designer has always remained true to his style. This season, he crafted a poetic narrative intertwined with the music of the past, drawing inspiration from the 1892 opera La Bella di Alghero. The result was a runway with a strong territorial identity. (Watch the show here).

MM6: The brand played with scale and proportions, shifting from small to oversized. This approach was particularly evident in their reinterpretation of iconic pieces like trench coats, jackets, dresses, and T-shirts. The collection felt more authentic to MM6’s essence—something we recognised, having loved and selected this concept for our boutique in the past. (Watch the show here).

Moschino: Creative director Adrian Appiolaza delved deep into the brand’s archives and stylistic codes, reviving the messages cherished by Franco Moschino. Foremost among them is a call to action on the climate crisis, alongside bold tailoring, deconstructed silhouettes, and surreal details. (Watch the show here).

Dolce & Gabbana: Models stepped out of the Metropol theatre and onto the streets, turning the show into a dynamic celebration. The “cool girls” aesthetic reinterpreted the brand’s classics with a sexy cargo twist, blending attitude with signature sensuality. (watch the show here).

Prada: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons explored the question, “What is femininity today?” and challenged conventional perceptions of beauty and gender identity. An approach we found particularly compelling, tracing an idea of style rich in contrasts. In the social media era, where people retreat into the illusion of perfection, Prada instead works to uglify the homogenising effect of a flattening culture—one that most people succumb to, numbed to the point of passivity, lacking even the impulse to escape or seek alternatives. (Watch the show here).

What can we learn from the FW25/26 Prada fashion show?

  • Contemporary femininity: A blend of vintage reimagined through a modern lens. Take a 1960s shift dress, make it oversized, and you get a fresh take on women’s style.
  • Freedom of movement: The collection is rich in oversized silhouettes, flowing gently over the body and allowing for natural movement.
  • Sizes are relative: Size no longer holds the same importance; it’s relative. In fact, what truly matters is how a dress flows on your body and how you choose to wear it—with a belt, a mannish shirt, or over a pair of jeans.

Final thoughts on MFW FW25/26


In conclusion, at Milano Fashion Week Fall-Winter 25/26, most luxury brands placed a strong emphasis on brand identity, with many creative directors diving into archives to honour their brand’s core DNA.

Ultimately, Prada’s exploration of contemporary femininity offered a vision of modern style. In a game of contrasts—between masculine and feminine—it all comes down to how you choose to wear your clothes. That, after all, is the essence of style: an invitation to freedom, clothes to explore rather than limit.

A focus on brand identity at MFW FW25/26 Read More »

FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week kicks off: Gucci’s new measure and Capasa’s optimism

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Between a vision for the future of fashion and the illusion of luxury?


The FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week opened with Gucci presenting its post-De Sarno collection, alongside a bold statement from Carlo Capasa, President of CNMI, on the state of luxury. What emerged was a striking contrast between the industry’s optimistic rhetoric and the stark realities of the market.

FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week: Gucci, a cautious reflection rooted in heritage


Set to an immersive soundtrack by Justin Hurwitz, performed live by an orchestra, and staged against a Castleton Green backdrop. So Gucci’s Fall Winter 25/26 collection marked a transitional moment for the brand. With no creative director at the helm, the collection avoided the excessive creative experimentation seen during Alessandro Michele’s tenure. In fact, he hijacked the brand steering it away from its core identity. Instead, this season offered a measured, archive-driven aesthetic, blending 60s to 90s influences into an elegant, modern image. The result was a clear luxury statement, showcasing the excellent work of a group of twenty young designers who took their bow at the end of the show. Bravo to the team!

Undoubtedly, this restrained approach feels like a deliberate response to the shifting luxury landscape. However, for luxury brands with such a rich history like Gucci, the path forward may well lie in balancing tradition with contemporary relevance—heritage, elegance, and archival inspiration with a modern twist.

Capasa’s statement: a questionable narrative


In contrast to Gucci’s cautious optimism, Carlo Capasa’s remarks struck a more contentious note. The CNMI president dismissed concerns about a luxury slowdown, framing it as a mere “readjustment.”

“Luxury is not suffering; it is readjusting.”

Capasa pointed to brands performing well globally as evidence of the industry’s resilience. Also, he expressed confidence in fashion’s ability to navigate complex moments. While his optimism is understandable—given his role as a promoter of the sector—it feels at odds with the broader market reality. Data suggests that luxury is indeed slowing down, with many brands facing significant uncertainty. The fact that a few brands are performing well—perhaps because they have the backing of substantial budgets—simply makes them exceptions. It does not negate the struggles faced by the majority.

The bigger picture: is luxury adapting or struggling?


As the FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week unfolds, the disconnect between the industry’s official narratives and market realities becomes increasingly apparent. Gucci’s calculated collection reflects a brand responding to economic shifts with caution. But is this “readjustment” a sign of resilience? Or a moment of reckoning for an industry in need of strategic reinvention?

FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week: opening highlights


Gucci’s FW25/26 show signals a potential return to its roots, prioritising heritage over experimentation. Perhaps this marks the end of the brand’s exploration of pointless pathways and a renewed focus on what it does best.

A final thought: Is the luxury industry truly in control of its destiny? Or is it merely reacting to the inevitable change? As the fashion world gathers in Milan, these questions linger, challenging the narratives of optimism and resilience that dominate the headlines.

FW25/26 Milano Fashion Week kicks off: Gucci’s new measure and Capasa’s optimism Read More »

Milano Fashion Week SS25 Celebrates Ignoring the Storm

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Exploring fashion’s refusal to acknowledge reality


Milano Fashion Week SS25 has just closed, and while the event was celebrated with high-energy words, it has done so by ignoring the storm brewing around the industry. The message seemed to be: No worries, better times will come. But, the contrast between the stakeholders’ storytelling and the fashion industry’s current struggles is hard to overlook. Despite the glamour, both the Chamber of Fashion and most brands continue to ignore the undeniable realities – financial instability, unsustainable practices, and a larger economic and planetary crisis.

This disconnect is unsettling, as the focus remains on maintaining an illusion of success while the foundation crumbles.

About Milano Fashion Week SS25


Magazines, TV news, and interviews painted an energising picture of the MFW SS25. “Many international buyers, most from Asia,” boasted Mr. Capasa. Yet behind the scenes, a different story unfolded. Some fairs experienced entire days without any attendance. It’s clear: selling something in a controlled environment means highlighting only the positives. But business as usual, amid economic, social, and planetary crises, feels deeply misguided.

We quote Cristiana Schieppati from “Chi è Chi News” as her words resonate with us:
“But let’s talk about this week, which has been a bit like my dog when I scold him, and he gives me that guilty look. Everything felt a bit subdued, with few people around (very few foreigners), lots of marketing, few newspapers handed out outside the shows, and many phrases like ‘hang in there, better times are coming, we’re doing fine despite everything.'”

This season’s runways saw more creativity, blending playful elements with good tailoring. Perhaps this was fashion’s attempt to deflect from the harsh reality. A desire to offer a bit of joy amidst an endless “permacrisis.” Archive pieces were given new life in chaotic, contemporary ways, encouraging individuality through personal style. The message seemed to be: wear clothes however you want, and bring statement pieces into everyday life with a casual twist.

And yes, we could mention some shows we found interesting. In fact, some designers did great work capturing the essence of their vision. For instance, Antonio Marras, Prada, Bottega Veneta and Moschino. But at this point, does that really matter? And what’s the sense in celebrating sustainability when the same names that dominate Fashion Week are rewarded year after year? How can the industry claim to be embracing change when it continues to spotlight the very players whose practices remain questionable?

Conclusion


Despite the brilliance of some collections, Milano Fashion Week SS25 has ultimately chosen to celebrate while ignoring the storm, showcasing the industry’s startling refusal to confront reality. Who needs to make a change if not the Italian Chamber of Fashion?

By the way, we have little reason to believe Paris Fashion Week will be any different.

🖤 Dive into our latest post, and don’t hesitate to reach out. You can comment here below (just register first), or drop us an email or WhatsApp. We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears. 

Let’s start a conversation!  

#formodernhumans

Milano Fashion Week SS25 Celebrates Ignoring the Storm Read More »