milanofashionweek

Milano Fashion Week SS25 Celebrates Ignoring the Storm

Exploring Fashion’s Refusal to Acknowledge Reality


Milano Fashion Week SS25 has just closed, and while the event was celebrated with high-energy words, it has done so by ignoring the storm brewing around the industry. The message seemed to be: No worries, better times will come. But, the contrast between the stakeholders’ storytelling and the fashion industry’s current struggles is hard to overlook. Despite the glamour, both the Chamber of Fashion and most brands continue to turn a blind eye to the undeniable realities – financial instability, unsustainable practices, and a larger economic and planetary crisis.

This disconnect is unsettling, as the focus remains on maintaining an illusion of success while the foundation crumbles.

About Milano Fashion Week SS25


Magazines, TV news, and interviews painted an energising picture of the MFW SS25. “Many international buyers, most from Asia,” boasted Mr. Capasa. Yet behind the scenes, a different story unfolded. Some fairs experienced entire days without any attendance. It’s clear: selling something in a controlled environment means highlighting only the positives. But business as usual, amid economic, social, and planetary crises, feels deeply misguided.

We quote Cristiana Schieppati from “Chi è Chi News” as her words resonate with us:
“But let’s talk about this week, which has been a bit like my dog when I scold him, and he gives me that guilty look. Everything felt a bit subdued, with few people around (very few foreigners), lots of marketing, few newspapers handed out outside the shows, and many phrases like ‘hang in there, better times are coming, we’re doing fine despite everything.'”

This season’s runways saw more creativity, blending playful elements with good tailoring. Perhaps this was fashion’s attempt to deflect from the harsh reality. A desire to offer a bit of joy amidst an endless “permacrisis.” Archive pieces were given new life in chaotic, contemporary ways, encouraging individuality through personal style. The message seemed to be: wear clothes however you want, and bring statement pieces into everyday life with a casual twist.

And yes, we could mention some shows we found interesting. In fact, some designers did great work capturing the essence of their vision. For instance, Antonio Marras, Prada, Bottega Veneta and Moschino. But at this point, does that really matter? And what’s the sense in celebrating sustainability when the same names that dominate Fashion Week are rewarded year after year? How can the industry claim to be embracing change when it continues to spotlight the very players whose practices remain questionable?

Conclusion


Despite the brilliance of some collections, Milano Fashion Week SS25 has ultimately chosen to celebrate while ignoring the storm, showcasing the industry’s startling refusal to confront reality. Who needs to make a change if not the Italian Chamber of Fashion?

By the way, we have little reason to believe Paris Fashion Week will be any different.


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Identity and Ethics

Peering Behind the Veil of the Fashion Industry

When it comes to identity, the spotlight often shifts away from ethics. That seems especially evident during the Milano Fashion Week.

The recent emphasis on rediscovering lost brand identities amid transitions between creative directors is appreciable. Instead of merely chasing trends and pushing boundaries to the point of absurdity, there’s a noticeable return to celebrating heritage and the unique DNA of fashion houses. However, amidst this shift, one can’t help but question the credibility of companies that have previously indulged in such superficial games.

The discrepancy between image and reality at MFW

The day before the conclusion of Milan Fashion Week, a revealing program titled “Indovina chi viene a cena” (Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner) aired on Rai3 (you can watch it here). The journalist Sabrina Giannini and her colleague shed light on the stark reality behind sustainability claims in the fashion industry. It became evident that the more brands flaunt their sustainable slogans, the less sustainable their practices proved to be. Sustainability is 90% greenwashing! This disillusionment extends beyond just material choices and production processes. In fact, it delves into the exploitation of cheap labour through outsourcing. A practice that starkly contrasts with the Italian craftsmanship ethos.

Fashion industry, identity and ethics

While these issues aren’t new to those who follow fashion’s undercurrents, the program highlighted some uncomfortable truths. Particularly striking was the response of the influencers when questioned about their awareness of designers’ materials and sustainable practices. Their dismissive reactions have underscored a glaring disconnection between the industry’s rhetoric and its actual impact. Specifically, these girls giggled or ran away, having no means to participate in a more than necessary discussion. By the way, does the fashion industry need these kinds of people? Really? Is this what the fashion industry is about?

Furthermore, Sabrina Giannini attempted to engage with designers and fashion houses on these pressing matters. What response did they get? Silence and indifference. Despite sustainability being touted as a pivotal theme in fashion, the lack of willingness from brands to engage in open dialogue is concerning. Indeed, it raises questions about the industry’s true commitment to ethical principles beyond mere lip service.

If the aim was to reveal the stark misalignment between the industry’s professed values and its actions, then the brands, with their silence, have succeeded!

Ethics, respect for work, workers’ rights, impact on the planet. All fall under the sustainability hat. But the fashion industry is not interested in that. Dear designers, refusing to open your doors, you have succeeded in unveiling your true faces.

Ultimately, Milano Fashion Week was all about identities. But clearly, no one cares about ethics!

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In The Name of Cleanliness

Reflections on Milano Fashion Week: A Blend of Style, Substance, and Identity

Milano Fashion Week unfolds in the name of cleanliness. Style cleaning, image cleaning, and even people cleaning.

A distinct narrative emerged amidst the flurry of runway shows. One characterised by themes of neatness, precision, and authenticity. Cleanness of designs accompanied by a less showy audience. It’s a mood that permeated many collections, reflecting a need to restore brands’ identity.

Fall/Winter 24-25 Milano Fashion Week

Designers such as Fendi embraced this ethos, presenting a collection defined by immaculate tailoring and modern elegance, with precise references to its heritage.

But also Prada was in this flow: fluttering ribbons and bows contrasting with mannish blazers and maxi skirts. A lot of grey. Military silhouettes accented by marine hats, feathered or in velvet.

Antonio Marras‘ homage to Eleonora D’Arborea stood out. A historical figure who lived between 1300 and 1400, seen as a national heroine of Sardinia. Marras’ collection has exuded opulence. Elaborate silhouettes, intricate embroideries, and textured fabrics evoked a sense of bygone grandeur. The spectacle captivated audiences with its unique blend of history, theatrical performance and defile.

Our heart breaks for MM6. Unfortunately, it seemed to have lost its way. Once, it was synonymous with avant-garde innovation under the helm of Martin Margiela. This runway looked like Diesel. In fact, the collection felt disconnected from its original identity. One might say Martin Margiela is no longer there, which is true, but Margiela is still the brand name. Therefore, shouldn’t we expect a certain continuity?

FW24.25 Moschino by Adrian Appiolaza

Moschino‘s new creative director, Adrian Appiolaza, made a promising debut, infusing a sense of contemporary flair. The designer honoured the brand’s iconic codes, mixing wearable silhouettes in a game of basics and boldness. Bravo Appiolaza! Even for bringing a message of peace on the runway. In fact, we applaude designers who use their platform to support important causes.

Yet, a sense of dystopia looms in the fashion industry. Brands celebrate new collections in the name of cleanliness and restoring their identities. Yet they all feature too many outfits. Furthermore, yesterday, a major TV news report was all about vintage fashion. Entirely!

One might wonder, what are the new clothes for?

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The Futuristic Fusion of DassùYAmoroso

Exploring the Metahuman Fashion Landscape

Today, we invite you to discover the futuristic fusion of DassùYAmoroso. A pioneering force at Fashion Hub, where innovation meets imagination in a spectacle that blurs the lines between reality and the digital realm. In an era where fashion and technology intertwine more than ever, Milan Fashion Week unveils a groundbreaking collaboration that epitomizes this union.

Fashion Hub showcasing a futuristic fusion

Fashion Hub is an initiative by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana dedicated to nurturing emerging talents. Today, it provided the stage for DassùYAmoroso to showcase their vision: “Wonder of a metahuman.” Amidst the buzz of Milano Fashion Week, their presentation captivated audiences with its bold exploration of the intersection between fashion and technology.

At the helm of DassùYAmoroso are Stefano Dassù and Pasquale Amoroso, visionaries who embrace a no-gender, contemporary Street-Punk aesthetic. Freedom defines their brand, transcending conventional boundaries and celebrating diversity without compromise. With collections like “I AM WHAT I AM” and “I AM AN ALIEN,” they challenged societal norms and championed individuality as the ultimate form of expression.

DassùYAmoroso: Wonder of a meta human

DassùYAmoroso at Fashion Hub

The Italian duo isn’t new at experimentation and pushing the boundaries of innovation. Yet, it’s their latest endeavour that pushes the envelope. Through an array of innovative collaborations with tech partners, DassùYAmoroso introduces a collection inspired by the enigmatic allure of sirens. These mythical beings, reimagined as travellers in the metaverse, symbolise the bridge between worlds. A motif echoed in the brand’s seamless integration of fashion and technology.

In a conversation with Cri (founder of suite123) at Fashion Hub, Stefano and Pasquale elaborate on their groundbreaking approach:

“It’s the first time an emerging brand has forged such extensive partnerships with technology firms, effectively melding fashion and technology into a singular entity. The collection draws inspiration from the siren, a mythical figure navigating the metaverse. For us, the siren embodies a journey between realities, a fusion of two complementary worlds. Through our collaborative efforts, we’ve crafted an immersive experience, leveraging augmented reality to traverse this cross-universe landscape.”

As the fashion industry continues to evolve, the futuristic fusion of DassùYAmoroso stands at the forefront, redefining the boundaries of creativity. And paving the way for a new era of metahuman fashion.

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Fashion out of the beaten paths

Emotions & beauty in a distinct venue

Come and discover fashion out of the beaten paths, where you’ll find exceptional artisanal work made with care and love for uniqueness.

Walking through showrooms for our Spring-Summer 24 research, it’s been amazing to witness the work of some designers who express their own vision of fashion. Those who follow their own path, meaning they don’t feel involved in the latest trends just to sell more. Those who offer a good design, beautiful fabrics, and timeless quality. Away from the commercial logic of overproduction and mass distribution. Precisely, they do the opposite. Few words and hard work. Therefore, they provide real value.

A path of recognizable value

For instance, entering Marc Le Bihan‘s space was like opening the Narnia door: you open it and get in a world apart. Set up in a post-industrial structure, a large room with big windows from which a late summer September sun brightened the garments. After a look around, a shiny black piano in a corner gave us a clue we didn’t get immediately, just because we did not expect it. Indeed, while peaking through the clothing along the perimeter of the four-room sides, we noticed a wood bar behind them. So we connected the dots: it was a dance school! 

Fashion out of the beaten paths

Marc Le Bihan’s “Danseuse Line” has found the perfect frame. But so it was for the gorgeous pristine white lace or linens, the silk slip dresses in different shapes. And the tye-dye knitwear. Likewise, Jean-Francois Mimilla’s materic jewels, whose precious crocheted hand work makes them unique. 

Uniqueness out of the beaten paths

And so, the atmosphere was unique, warm, quiet and poetic. Marc le Bihan’s clothes, like Jean Francois Mimilla jewels, delivered a tactile experience made of dreamy creativity, out of the ordinary, and, because of its uniqueness, even more beautiful.

Independent designers and artisanal fashion provide the opportunity to own unique, high-quality pieces that are not mass-produced or widely available. That is the essence of luxury style.

However, the whole set-up affirmed that there’s still something meaningful in fashion. It doesn’t have to mingle with the mainstream. Indeed, it’s not for all, but you can find exceptional fashion out of the beaten paths. 

Another note of appreciation: the space was fully accessible. Don’t take it for granted in the fashion field!

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