The Dropped Shoulder
How shoulder construction defines the silhouette
Considering pattern design, the dropped shoulder is a construction we tend to favour.
Why? It doesn’t make you feel compressed. Moving the silhouette away from the body changes the proportion by giving a fresh, contemporary image. Moreover, this design provides a comfortable fit and an easy-to-wear versatile style. But unfortunately, some people think a drop-shoulder jacket is just a big size.
Inspiration comes from Miyake, a game-changer in fashion:
“From the beginning I thought about working with the body in movement, the space between the body and clothes. I wanted the clothes to move when people moved. The clothes are also for people to dance or laugh.”
Issey Miyake
The shape of the shoulder is an essential element as it defines the silhouette; its pattern intersects with the sleeve design, providing a functional imprint to a garment.
Dropped shoulder vs set-in sleeve: what is the difference?
The term set-in sleeve describes the armhole seam placed right on the shoulder point. On the contrary, the dropped shoulder describes sleeves where the armhole position falls on the top of the arm. But, those who don’t understand this design detail say the garment size is big.
Specifically, not sewing the sleeves of the garment at the highest point of the shoulder allows more room for movement and comfort. In fact, that pattern works particularly well for garments that require a lot of arm movement, such as coats, jackets, blousons, sweaters and t-shirts.
A set-in sleeve offers a more formal, professional look. However, it really depends on how you put together your clothes. In other words, it depends on the occasion, your usual style, and how curious you are to try something that makes your body feel less compressed.
The proportion of the drop-shoulder garment creates a modern balance of volume when paired with slim-fit trousers or skirts. But even a full boyfriend silhouette looks cool.
Drop shoulder pieces tend to be oversized, so they are way more comfortable and look good on everyone. Furthermore, they’re versatile, meaning you can dress them up or down, depending on the occasion.
On a last note, the dropped shoulder works well for the layering style, which offers the perfect solution in times of unstable weather (and climate change).
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