Reflections on Milano Fashion Week: A Blend of Style, Substance, and Identity
Milano Fashion Week unfolds in the name of cleanliness. Style cleaning, image cleaning, and even people cleaning.
A distinct narrative emerged amidst the flurry of runway shows. One characterised by themes of neatness, precision, and authenticity. Cleanness of designs accompanied by a less showy audience. It’s a mood that permeated many collections, reflecting a need to restore brands’ identity.
Fall/Winter 24-25 Milano Fashion Week
Designers such as Fendi embraced this ethos, presenting a collection defined by immaculate tailoring and modern elegance, with precise references to its heritage.
But also Prada was in this flow: fluttering ribbons and bows contrasting with mannish blazers and maxi skirts. A lot of grey. Military silhouettes accented by marine hats, feathered or in velvet.
Antonio Marras‘ homage to Eleonora D’Arborea stood out. A historical figure who lived between 1300 and 1400, seen as a national heroine of Sardinia. Marras’ collection has exuded opulence. Elaborate silhouettes, intricate embroideries, and textured fabrics evoked a sense of bygone grandeur. The spectacle captivated audiences with its unique blend of history, theatrical performance and defile.
Our heart breaks for MM6. Unfortunately, it seemed to have lost its way. Once, it was synonymous with avant-garde innovation under the helm of Martin Margiela. This runway looked like Diesel. In fact, the collection felt disconnected from its original identity. One might say Martin Margiela is no longer there, which is true, but Margiela is still the brand name. Therefore, shouldn’t we expect a certain continuity?
Moschino‘s new creative director, Adrian Appiolaza, made a promising debut, infusing a sense of contemporary flair. The designer honoured the brand’s iconic codes, mixing wearable silhouettes in a game of basics and boldness. Bravo Appiolaza! Even for bringing a message of peace on the runway. In fact, we applaude designers who use their platform to support important causes.
Yet, a sense of dystopia looms in the fashion industry. Brands celebrate new collections in the name of cleanliness and restoring their identities. Yet they all feature too many outfits. Furthermore, yesterday, a major TV news report was all about vintage fashion. Entirely!
One might wonder, what are the new clothes for?