greenwashing

Secondhand and fashion resale

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Circularity or marketing trick?

Driven by the popularity of secondhand, the fashion resale market is growing strongly, not only for luxury brands but mass-market brands, too.

“The explosion of cheap, mass-market brands over the last two decades has meant the secondhand market is now awash with polyester party dresses and synthetic sweaters.” via Business Of Fashion.

As a matter of fact, “I’m searching for a little something” – is still the NR 1 customers’ request. In other words, it means a low-priced, easy-to-purchase, easy-to-get-rid-of piece of clothing. Though we don’t sell that product, we often hear that request. That’s what people want! Sadly, the attractive price for clothes is now a burden we all pay. In fact, clothes end up in landfills, where trillions of “little things” are towering, polluting lands and seas. So, you may wonder, was it really so convenient?

Since our wardrobes are packed with clothing, reselling is a way to clean them out. Of course, donating, too, helps.

Secondhand and fashion resale: pros and cons

From the perspective of circularity, reselling represents a valuable opportunity. First, it prevents clothes from ending up in the garbage bin, giving them a longer life. Second, it makes luxury brands accessible.

But, in the case of fast fashion, there’s a big issue with reselling: mass-market brands use circularity to greenwash. Indeed, the fact that fast-fashion brands push people to resell their clothing is a marketing trick. They do it to sell more fast-fashion items. Reselling fast fashion to purchase more fast fashion is pure madness. Instead of limiting the problem, brands make it bigger by feeding the system.

Secondhand and fashion resale make sense for quality products, as clothing made to last deserves a second life, though brands should control production anyway. But it is dangerous with fast fashion. In fact, we’d better avoid producing new garbage at all, which would be the ultimate solution to fashion waste.

How do you make a positive impact? Don’t buy fast fashion. Buy less, far much less, buy better!

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Extreme weather: the new normal

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Why people don’t care about climate change

It seems extreme weather bothers people to the degree of the intensity of heat, cold perceived, or devastation suffered. Other than news titles, these dramatic events cause conversations and complaints. However, it stops there.

But now that information is everywhere, why do people not educate themselves? Why is there indifference and no action?

Extreme weather in Europe

A massive storm and hail have devastated Milano. Also, in the Mediterranean, flames are devouring everything. That happens in Sicily, Greece, Croatia, Turkey and Gran Canaria. From droughts to wildfires, these days, Europe is burning. The climate emergency is tangible. And we know what has caused climate change which drives extreme weather because scientists said it clearly decades ago. They said we had to change the way humans impacted the planet. But we kept on abusing nature in the name of money.

Furthermore, instead of listening to those who tried to open our eyes, instead of changing our lifestyle to avoid extinction, we changed the marketing! So now, every product or service is green. Brilliant! But guess what? The world is in flames.

Misleading messages on climate change

Recently, the Italian Prime Minister spoke at the Vox rally in Valencia. She said we need to “stop ultra-ecological fanaticism.” Also: “ecological sustainability must go hand in hand with economic sustainability.”
In other words, according to the Italian government, we need to stop those who take a step to protect nature but do not say a word about oil companies.

These messages on how to handle climate change are disturbing. Besides, this viewpoint goes hand in hand with the fake slogans of green capitalism and sustainability, which are expressions of greenwashing.

Please, stop it all! Stop talking! No more words on sustainability because they are unnerving.
We are fed up with hearing governments and brands talking about growth. We cannot stand hearing about sustainable fashion, organic food, sustainable tourism or net zero! There is no such thing as sustainable growth.

Climate change worsens, but we keep doing what we have done so far! More flights, more cars, more travel, more consumption. Like someone driving a car about to hit a wall but does not care!

Now more than ever, information is available to everyone.
Indeed, there is enough information about climate change to educate ourselves and hold ourselves accountable. Yet most people prefer to credit those who deny it. Either there is a lack of understanding, or we are kidding ourselves.

But one thing is clear: extreme weather is the new normal. And we cannot afford this inconsiderate behaviour anymore.

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Net zero fashion

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Greenwashing from the top down

Net zero fashion is one of the latest buzzwords in sustainability. But can we trust those who promote their garments with this label?

We know that green eco-whatever labels have flooded the fashion industry, like any other activity related to selling products or services. The food industry was probably the first to launch organic products, which, by itself, means nothing. See the video here. Also, according to Fondazione Veronesi, the differences between organic and non-organic food are few and negligible. 

After the food industry, it was time for fashion, furniture and now, sustainable tourism, all of which sound like enormous bullshit.

Net zero fashion according to the UN

Take the UN playbook on “Sustainable Fashion Communication.” Though the basic principle, fighting overconsumption, is valuable, we didn’t like the fact they mention some fashion brands. It seems like they take for granted that these brands are doing great work in terms of sustainability while they are perfectly aware that there is zero control!

For instance, the UN playbook mentions Allbirds. 
“Footwear brand Allbirds developed a life cycle assessment (LCA) tool to estimate the cradle-to-grave carbon footprint of its products.”
“Allbirds then took it a step further in 2023 announcing what it refers to as the world’s first net zero carbon shoe.”
At some point, a line that says: “According to the company’s assessment, on average, a pair of Allbirds shoes has a footprint of 7.12 kg CO2e.”

That “according to the company” sounds really weird! Even more, coming from the UN! They better avoid mentioning any fashion brand…

Net zero fashion according to Business of Fashion

By the way, a few days later, a newsletter from the Business of Fashion got our attention. It was about Allbirds and the launch of their new sneakers. We quote B.O.F:

“By focusing on materials that draw down more carbon than they emit and lowering transport and manufacturing impact as much as possible, the brand says it has succeeded in designing ‘the world’s first net zero-carbon shoe.’ But the basis of such calculations for the industry is fraught. Fashion’s environmental impact data is notoriously poor and accepted standards for carbon accounting are still evolving, meaning net-zero product claims are testing new ground.”

Net zero according to science

So what? The UN released the playbook to help spread sustainable fashion communication, but they did not do a great job. It seems like they are greenwashing from the top down.

Since there is no control, it is not serious to mention fashion brands at all. Also, since the UN says “lead with science” – on this point, we totally agree! So, here is what the climate scientist Kevin Anderson says about net zero:

“Net Zero is a real dangerous turn in my view, and if you hear the language of net zero, I’d be very cautious about the optimism of the person who’s saying it actually has. Unpick it, reveal what’s behind it, and you’ll realise what they mean, and what they mean is NOT zero emissions, not net zero, not zero emissions. 
I always say ‘net zero’ is Latin for ‘kick the can down the road.”

Kevin Anderson

Lead with science UN, and reveal what’s behind net zero fashion!

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UN against overconsumption

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Fashion marketers as the key to a new narrative

The UN says fashion needs to stop promoting overconsumption. Indeed, we are perfectly aligned since we focused more on this evolved path, about four years ago. Though a selection of pieces to wear for a lifetime has always been part of our viewpoint.
Specifically, the UN Environment Programme and UN climate change have just released new recommendations for those who work in fashion marketing and communication.

“We are draining humanity’s lifeblood through vampiric overconsumption and unsustainable use, and evaporating it through global heating,” said U.N. Secretary-General Antonio Guterres. (source)

UN against overconsumption: a systemic issue

According to the UN, mass consumption is a systemic issue. So, they identify marketing as the key to fostering cultural change. That is how: leading consumers to change consumption rates, increasing consumer knowledge and shifting consumer behaviours. The idea is to tackle misinformation and greenwashing through science-based communication and transparency.

Although we agree with the idea of fighting overconsumption and overproduction, we are afraid that many of the words suggested in the playbook are buzzwords hiding greenwashing.
Marketing is an ensemble of activities finalised to sell products or services. So far, fashion marketing has contributed to creating confusion through deliberate operations. It isn’t likely that corporations are ready to leave behind their growth pattern. Ethics over money sounds weird from a capitalistic view.

Fashion industry: overproduction & overconsumption

Overproduction and overconsumption are two faces of the same coin, capitalism. In other words, a vicious and exploitative economic system which triggers toxic behaviours.

Overproduction leads to overconsumption: this point was clear to us. So, as a fashion retailer, about four years ago, we thought it made sense to reduce the quantity of clothing we ordered each season dramatically. That allowed us to avoid overstock and end-of-season sales while promoting a reduction of consumption based on fewer products but good quality. And so, a timeless selection of non-trend-based garments with great design value.
Also, getting familiar with the concept of degrowth as an effective strategy to drive change, we trust our choice was valuable.

However, it’s not enough, and we need to do more. But it’s complicated to work since most fashion industry players still promote growth, perhaps hiding it behind traceability QR Codes. Now they call it green growth. Which, as clearly explained in Kevin Anderson’s video, is meaningless. It leads nowhere.

Furthermore, it’s hard to find solutions when consumers shop from retailers who still work on an overproduction basis. How can these retailers stop promoting overconsumption with shops full to the brim of clothes?

Most importantly, does the UN leave the fight against overconsumption to the good heart of marketers? Of course, fashion marketing is part of the problem. And an ethical approach could work. But expecting redemption without regulations and strict controls in a rotten system seems a bit naive.

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Where are we heading

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Climate change: are we doing enough?

A true paradise: where are we heading – is the video released by Kevin Anderson, a climate scientist. And you cannot miss it!

“We are 32 years from the first major scientific report on climate change… What have we done since then?” “All we are doing so far is giving rhetoric and optimism and greenwash.”
“There is plenty of talk but no action.”- Anderson says.

When we hear people talking about sustainability, it seems like they limit the debate to specific fields without considering the fact that sustainability regards our whole lifestyle and all of us. However, with the bad habit of passing the buck and, most of all, thanks to a lot of greenwashing, we aren’t making any progress. Indeed, the climate disaster is happening faster than many thought. And it’s frustrating because greenwashing makes it impossible to have honest conversations. In fact, the more governments, companies, and brands fake, the more they get attention. And people trust them! But we would love to ask all these green companies: if they are really doing so good, why are emissions going up?

In the end, some people see the urgency, but most do not move a finger to change their habits! They are not interested in climate change, or change isn’t convenient for them. So they greenwash.

Must-see video!

Kevin Anderson released the video here below: Where are we heading. It’s a warning which invites us to open our eyes and stop believing political rhetoric and greenwashing. And also calls on us to push for bold policy changes.

Every word is precious, but we highlight some passages:
“Pseudo technologies are a facade to avoid asking the difficult political and equity based questions. ‘Net Zero’ is a real dangerous turn in my view, and really means NOT zero. I always say ‘net zero’ is latin for ‘kick the can down the road.”

“I have to be honest and say as someone who has worked on climate change for years, my best guess is that we are going to fail. But it is a choice to fail. Political leaders, academia and journalism, have repeatedly chosen to fail on climate for 30 years.”

His powerful words call for radical change. Furthermore, he makes it clear, politicians or corporations won’t drive the change. The hope comes from the common people, civil society, who can ask for more.

So, where are we heading? With his final words, Kevin Anderson opens to hope:
“It does come down to all of us to play our role as best that we can. It is a choice to fail and it is a choice to succeed.”

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