greenwashing

Being a Sustainability Critic: What does it really mean?

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Challenging greenwashing and holding brands accountable


Today, we want to explore the concept of being a sustainability critic: taking a critical approach to sustainability. What does it really mean?  Is being a sustainability critic about disregarding sustainability altogether? Or is it about caring so much that we refuse to be deceived by corporations and their marketing strategies?

Sustainability is often positioned as a key solution to climate change. However, can we really talk about solutions? Climate change is already a harsh, irreversible reality. As Rupert Read puts it, our only choice is to adapt to a world of climate extremes.

The point of being a sustainability critic


Being a sustainability critic means looking beyond surface-level claims and greenwashing to assess the real impact of brands, policies, and movements. It’s about:

1. Questioning corporate narratives
2. Exposing contradictions
3. Holding companies accountable for their environmental and social claims

A sustainability critic doesn’t just applaud “eco-friendly” initiatives. Instead, they ask: Is this truly sustainable, or just another marketing ploy? This attitude demands curiosity, scepticism, and a commitment to transparency.

Sustainability vs. corporate reality


Yesterday morning, we came across this news from The Business of Fashion:

“Patagonia, Nike and others have tried but failed to eliminate labour exploitation at key Taiwanese suppliers.”

“Brands like Patagonia, Nike and Lululemon have been working for years to address the exploitation of migrant workers at key fabric suppliers in Taiwan. Despite some progress, the issue has persisted.”

But isn’t Patagonia the brand that truly cares about sustainability? At least, that’s what they claim. Yet, time and again, the gap between corporate promises and actual practices is enormous. In fact, their actions simply do not match their words.

The truth about sustainable fashion


This is exactly why we need sustainability critics. It’s about cutting through corporate rhetoric, challenging greenwashing, and demanding real ethical standards.

The truth is simple:

• There is no sustainability in overproduction.

• There is no sustainability in exploited labour.

And for brands that continue to push their sustainable lies, there’s only one response: this is greenwashing.

Final thoughts


In conclusion, being a sustainability critic — or taking a critical approach to sustainability — is essential to avoiding deception by brands and corporations. In fact, if we want genuine sustainability in fashion, we must move beyond empty promises and hold brands accountable. It’s time to rethink the way we consume and demand radical transparency.

And you? Do you consider yourself a sustainability critic? Share your thoughts in the comments!

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Milano Design Week, Fashion & Greenwashing

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Exploring tangible contrasts and ethical dilemmas in contemporary events


As the Milano Design Week concluded, we reflected on tangible distinctions with Fashion Week and delved into the pros and cons of the greenwashing effect evident in contemporary events.

The Milano Design Week is an annual event which serves as a platform for showcasing furniture, objects, creativity and ideas. This season’s theme, “Materia Natura” (matter nature), set the stage for contemplating the importance of environmental sustainability in the creative and design process. Also, running in parallel with the official “Salone del Mobile,” the Fuorisalone has experienced significant growth. As a result, every corner of the city boasted its own installations and events.

Blessed with beautiful sunny days, we immersed ourselves in numerous installations, many intertwined with fashion brands, just without the please-look-at-me foolishness. But a couple of reflections began to crystallise in our minds.

Milano Design Week, Fashion & Greenwashing
Milano Design Week – “Il mare dove non si tocca” by Antonio Marras

Milano Design Week & Greenwashing


The cons:
1 – The emphasis on sustainability often appeared to be mere greenwashing, given the excessive expenditure of money and resources without tangible environmental benefits. On the contrary, waste seemed clear.
2 – Some (fashion) brands participated simply to secure a spot on the list rather than with genuine needs. Indeed, this sentiment was palpable when the quality of the installation was just a way to invite people to stop by. Even among those who collaborated on a co-marketing initiative, the focus seemed to be just the marketing strategy.

Milano Design Week vs Fashion Week


The pros:
1 – In contrast to Milano Fashion Week, Design Week is more inclusive and open to anyone. And the atmosphere is way more enjoyable.
2 – The staff responsible for welcoming attendees and ensuring security exhibit a notably kinder attitude. Since Ro is a wheelchair user, we received acts of kindness during Design Week that we were not accustomed to compared to our experiences during Fashion Week.
3 – No fashion carnival, meaning no subjects begging for attention.

suite123 staff- Milano Design Week – “Il mare dove non si tocca” by Antonio Marras


However, we loved “Il mare dove non si tocca” (In the deep sea) by Antonio Marras. Upon entering the enchanting NonostanteMarras space, we encountered a temporary bar in the inner courtyard. Unfortunately, the arrangement of plants and tables left little room for a wheelchair to pass through. Witnessing our attempt, Antonio Marras jumped up and asked people to clear a path for us. Moreover, he kindly offered assistance if we wished to explore the basement area, where he showed his ceramics and a marvellous marine set-up for the restaurant area in collaboration with the Rana family. Also, we met the beautiful Antonella Rana, Global Image and Communication Director of Pastificio Rana.
Antonio Marras’ caring attitude surprised us. Such unconventional behaviour for the fashion industry standards!

The Milano Design Week concluded amidst fusions with fashion and a deluge of greenwashing. Specifically, design wins over fashion for accessibility and courtesy, but sustainability sounds too much like greenwashing. In contrast, let’s shape events where creativity harmonizes with sustainability, inspiring and innovating without compromising our planet.

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Fashion Crimes: Dirty Cotton

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Earthsight Ong linking european giants to illegal activities in Brazil


According to the British NGO Earthsight, the cotton used by textile giants H&M and Zara to produce their clothes is dirty cotton.

Specifically, the NGO alleges that the two European brands are complicit in large-scale illegal deforestation activities in Brazil, including land grabbing, human rights abuses, corruption, and violent land conflicts. But this revelation is particularly alarming as it implicates Better Cotton, a certified sustainable cotton label. If you heard us say certifications worth zero, here’s the proof.

Fashion Crimes: The report on dirty cotton


Using satellite imagery, court decisions, product shipping records, and undercover investigations, Earthsight has compiled a report titled ‘Fashion Crimes.’ The result is a damning portrait! Cotton certified as ethical by the world’s largest certification system, Better Cotton, is found to be contaminated by numerous environmental offences. Also, this cotton is exported to various Asian manufacturers, producing approximately 250 million clothing items and household articles annually for H&M, Zara, and their sister brands’ global stores.

Fashion Crimes: dirty cotton - Report cover
Fashion Crimes: Dirty Cotton – read the full report here

The NGO has tracked the journey of 816,000 tons of cotton from two of Brazil’s largest agroindustrial companies, Horita Group and Slc Agrícola, in Western Bahia. Traditional communities lived in harmony with nature. But greedy agricultural companies serving global cotton markets attacked them and robbed their lands. The Brazilian families who own these lands have a lengthy history of legal proceedings, convictions for corruption, and multimillion-dollar fines for illegal deforestation.

Some of these illicit activities take place in the Cerrado region, a savanna renowned for its rich fauna and flora, constituting the second most important biome in Brazil. The Cerrado, which hosts 5% of the world’s species, saw a 43% increase in vegetation destruction in 2023. The clearing of Cerrado trees for agriculture generates carbon equivalent to the emissions of 50 million cars each year.

Environmental protection is a key issue for the European Union, which has included the new European Deforestation Regulation (Eudr) in the Green Deal. A program against climate change that encourages the consumption of certified raw materials and imposes restrictions on the importation of those produced in deforested regions.

“Earthsight’s year-long investigation reveals that corporations and consumers in Europe and North America are driving this destruction in a new way. Not by what they eat – but what they wear.”

Better Cotton: certifications & greenwashing


In conclusion, the NGO points the finger at Better Cotton, the world’s largest ‘ethical’ cotton certification system, with the raw material exposed as dirty cotton. Therefore, contaminated by various environmental offences. “BC has been repeatedly accused of greenwashing and criticised for failing to allow for full traceability of supply chains.”

Therefore, can we trust sustainable labels? No, of course not! Left alone, labels and certifications mean nothing. In fact, they are frequently used to mislead people. So, they are just greenwashing. Moreover, selling more green products is a strategy to support the overproduction model. So, it won’t solve any issue. (Download “The sustainability basics” checklist here).

Even though brands like Zara and H&M might use sustainable materials, the massive quantities they produce would nullify the sustainable effort. Why isn’t this clear? The solution is plain: we must produce and consume less. It’s the only viable strategy in the face of such devastation.
Consumers play a crucial role in perpetuating these harmful practices, often unknowingly. By reducing our consumption and demanding accountability from brands, we can make a real difference in protecting the environment and promoting sustainability.

While uncovering dirty cotton practices is crucial, it’s imperative to recognize that consuming less is fundamental for sustainability. Consume less: this is the action we must take now!

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Identity and Ethics

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Peering behind the veil of the fashion industry


When it comes to identity, the spotlight often shifts away from ethics. That seems especially evident during the Milano Fashion Week.

The recent emphasis on rediscovering lost brand identities amid transitions between creative directors is appreciable. Instead of merely chasing trends and pushing boundaries to the point of absurdity, there’s a noticeable return to celebrating heritage and the unique DNA of fashion houses. However, amidst this shift, one can’t help but question the credibility of companies that have previously indulged in such superficial games.

The discrepancy between image and reality at MFW


The day before the conclusion of Milan Fashion Week, a revealing program titled “Indovina chi viene a cena” (Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner) aired on Rai3 (you can watch it here). The journalist Sabrina Giannini and her colleague shed light on the stark reality behind sustainability claims in the fashion industry. It became evident that the more brands flaunt their sustainable slogans, the less sustainable their practices proved to be. Sustainability is 90% greenwashing! This disillusionment extends beyond just material choices and production processes. In fact, it delves into the exploitation of cheap labour through outsourcing. A practice that starkly contrasts with the Italian craftsmanship ethos.

Fashion industry, identity and ethics


While these issues aren’t new to those who follow fashion’s undercurrents, the program highlighted some uncomfortable truths. Particularly striking was the response of the influencers when questioned about their awareness of designers’ materials and sustainable practices. Their dismissive reactions have underscored a glaring disconnection between the industry’s rhetoric and its actual impact. Specifically, these girls giggled or ran away, having no means to participate in a more than necessary discussion. By the way, does the fashion industry need these kinds of people? Really? Is this what the fashion industry is about?

Furthermore, Sabrina Giannini attempted to engage with designers and fashion houses on these pressing matters. What response did they get? Silence and indifference. Despite sustainability being touted as a pivotal theme in fashion, the lack of willingness from brands to engage in open dialogue is concerning. Indeed, it raises questions about the industry’s true commitment to ethical principles beyond mere lip service.

If the aim was to reveal the stark misalignment between the industry’s professed values and its actions, then the brands, with their silence, have succeeded!

Ethics, respect for work, workers’ rights, impact on the planet. All fall under the sustainability hat. But the fashion industry is not interested in that. Dear designers, refusing to open your doors, you have succeeded in unveiling your true faces.

Ultimately, Milano Fashion Week was all about identities. But clearly, no one cares about ethics!

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The Greenwashing Effect

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& where sustainability can grow


Today, we read on Modem about Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s presence at COP28, and the greenwashing effect starts itching. By the way, the entire conference sparked a considerable sense of discomfort.

Indeed, the recent presence of the fashion world at COP28 in Dubai raised eyebrows and questions about the authenticity of the messages from mainstream fashion entities. Likewise, the event “Climate Change is not Cool: A Sustainability Message from the Fashion World” by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.

COP28 & the fashion industry


While it’s promising to witness fashion institutions addressing sustainability on global platforms, there’s a deep concern about greenwashing. True sustainability isn’t a marketing tactic; it’s a fundamental shift in values, production methods, and consumer behaviour. Which we failed to witness so far. When mainstream brands adopt sustainability as a buzzword without genuine commitment, they dilute the essence of real change.

The authentic roots of sustainability


A genuine, sustainable culture in fashion starts as a counter-culture, born from grassroots movements, independent designers and shops, and community-driven initiatives. It’s radical, disruptive, and not easily co-opted by corporate agendas. These movements champion transparency, good quality, ethical production, and circular economies. 

The power of the counterculture


History has shown that meaningful change often originates from the fringes, where unconventional ideas take root. These movements challenge the status quo, paving the way for a new fashion narrative that prioritises craftsmanship, durability, ethical practices, and a deeper understanding of the environmental impact.

Shifting perspectives and empowering choices


As consumers, we hold significant power in shaping the fashion industry. Embracing a more sustainable mindset involves supporting independent, ethical brands, vintage and secondhand fashion, and demanding transparency from big corporations. It’s about making informed choices that align with our values and contribute positively to a more sustainable future.

The fact that fashion entities participate in events like COP28 can create a false impression of sustainability – the greenwashing effect, indeed. However, real change happens through the efforts of communities, alternative movements, designers and shops that prioritise quality – less, much less but better – not overconsumption. 

Eventually, we must remember that we vote with our wallets; that’s how we shape the world we want. And that’s how we attest our commitment to sustainability.

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