greenwashing

Sustainability is ridiculous

Why playing this shell game should be banned


Sustainability is ridiculous. Not because the concept per se is stupid or does not make sense. But because it is too broad, too vague, and, therefore, deceptive. 

Sustainable fashion? This is greenwashing

Sometimes for ignorance or superficiality, yet in most cases, with intentionality, as those who play the sustainable game are perfectly aware of what they do. But, in the end, sustainability is just a new way to make money by showing a green facade. The industry, which goes from consultancy to fashion brand retail to NGOs, is flourishing. As a matter of fact, industry players spend time on “eco – green – conscious” labels, but it seems they are playing a shell game. The purpose is to hide and manipulate truths. 

In most cases, the effort is all about running after the latest eco-friendly label. But is it enough to achieve sustainability? It is the case of Chloé, for instance. Richemont hired Gabriela Hearst for her eco credentials, and now, three years later, the designer is exiting the company. Though they say revenue increased by 60%, their design is far away from the beauty of the past. 

Why sustainability is ridiculous

However, we have some doubts about the strategy Chloé has promoted so far. How can a luxury brand based on seasonal trends manage its business without damaging the planet? We wonder how fashion brands that shift to a purpose-driven business can be credible if they still run their activity on an overproduction pattern. Also, they attain the status of B-Corp. Most importantly, we wonder how B-Corp certification can combine with overproduction.
That seems contradictory. In fact, in this context, sustainability is ridiculous.

Specifically, we wonder if a drastic reduction of supply by offering only beautiful design garments made with “sustainable materials” and respecting the production chain would be an effective strategy.

But, of course, we understand that manipulating reality with the effect of fueling overconsumption is the most effective way to make money. So keep up promoting a green world!

Cultural change

Between utopia and feasibility

Are we ready for cultural change? The real one, we mean. When it comes to sustainability, do we believe in all the marketing bullshit that flooded communication lately? Or are we open to change for real? Ready to pick this opportunity up and make something better beyond the facades

People are bombarded with deceiving information: 
“We are sustainable because we recycle garments!”
“We use milk, coconut or whatever fibres.” 
“Hey, we have a conscious section in our store!”
“There’s a sustainable selection on our e-shop.”
“And we are the ones who do it best because we plant trees!”

Forget all that! Even the ‘plant a tree’ claim is proven misleading. Indeed, all these messages have the sole purpose of making people over-consume. As a matter of fact, not a single company has changed their overproduction pattern.

On the one hand, this is marketing, what brands need to say in order to show a clean face. But, on the other, we can find alternative reports and explorations that dig the truth out. Are we open to reading those reports? Understand how things really are? And, therefore, start questioning? 

Of course, sustainability is a path to pursue with conviction and self-commitment, despite all the difficulties, misleading messages, and smoke and mirrors. 

But is the effort worth it? Or, as many people with whom we exchange thoughts tell us, sustainability is just one of those beautiful utopias! To sell, one must think only of selling more. That is what companies have to do. And people, for their part, have to buy whatever product. 

So, in the context of trade, specifically in the fashion field, is sustainability a utopia or is it feasible? What’s your viewpoint on this?

Are you open to cultural change? We would love to hear your thoughts. 
Drop us an email, WhatsApp, or comment here below!

Carbon neutral: plant a tree?

Offsetting carbon emissions: why it is misleading

The carbon neutral definition may induce people to think that a brand that claims this practice is sustainable. But, planting trees isn’t enough to solve the climate change issue.

Indeed, it’s always interesting to read how the fashion industry is involved in sustainable practices. Which, now, we can place under the umbrella of corporate change. We get itchy just thinking about it! There is no company that doesn’t talk about its eco-friendly policies. The bigger they are, the more they blurt out promises they cannot keep.

Sustainable brands

According to the Circular Fashion Index 2023, Gucci is the most sustainable among luxury brands. Kearny, a strategic consultancy company that analyses the impact of the circularity of brands, operates this ranking. They rank fast fashion brands, too! So, fast fashion has sustainable practices – really?

We feel a little disappointed when agencies release these rankings because of the misleading impact. In fact, we think industries use the word sustainable too much. After checking out those rankings, our question is: how can brands structured on an overproduction model be sustainable?

Carbon neutral or greenwashing?

But, while some magazines posted the list of the most sustainable brands or sustainable mega entities, The Guardian released an article that dampens enthusiasm. 

“Adverts that claim products are carbon neutral using offsets are to be banned by the UK’s advertising watchdog unless companies can prove they really work, the Guardian can reveal, as Gucci becomes the latest company to struggle with a high-profile environmental commitment based on offsetting.
Amid growing concern that firms are misleading consumers about the environmental impact of their products, the Advertising Standards Authority’s (ASA) is to begin stricter enforcement around the use of terms such as “carbon neutral”, “net zero” and “nature positive” as part of a greenwashing crackdown later this year after a six-month review.”

The Guardian

Offset CO2 emissions: what does it mean? 

Offsetting CO2 emissions means balancing the amount of CO generated by any activity through reforestation, parks and natural reserves protection. These projects generate carbon credits.

“In January, a joint Guardian investigation found that many rainforest offsets certified by Verra, which operates the world’s leading carbon standard, had little impact despite being widely used by major companies for environmental claims, also finding evidence of forced evictions at a flagship project in Peru used by Disney and Apple.”

The Guardian

Specifically, The Guardian revealed that more than 90% of rainforest carbon offsets by the biggest certifier are worthless!
Therefore, planting trees isn’t helping with climate change.

When big brands, corporations and millionaires talk about sustainability and carbon emissions, always be careful. They are the problem. And if they want to be part of the solution, they must change their overproduction model and lifestyle first. 

Changing marketing isn’t enough. Carbon-neutral and sustainable claims are just smoke and mirrors.

EU Commission: a plan against greenwashing

Can non-mandatory rules fight greenwashing?

On March 22nd, the EU Commission released a plan against greenwashing claims. But these new rules leave some leeway that will probably generate more confusion. 

Environmental claims aren’t reliable!

Over the last five years, we started digging deep into sustainable matters. And how tricky it is for people to understand which label is sustainable or not. That is because of greenwashing: the process of brands and companies deceiving consumers to believe they are green when they are not. Obviously, brands release fake green claims to sell more. Indeed, the sustainability business is flourishing! And perhaps, those who believe in fairy tales are happy with it!

The plan to fight greenwashing

These are the data:
53% of green claims are vague, misleading or unfounded information.
40% of claims have no supporting evidence.
1/2 Half of all green labels offer weak or non-existent verification.
There are 230 sustainability labels and 100 green energy labels in the EU, with vastly different levels of transparency.

Hence, the new criteria want to make green claims reliable across the EU, protecting consumers from greenwashing. Also, contribute to creating a circular economy based on reuse, repair, and recycling.

Expected impacts

“With certain consumers purchasing products that will be truly better for the environment, it is estimated that the impacts on the environment will be highly positive.”

Now the above statement may sound like greenwashing, too! In fact, the only “better for the environment” is a drastic reduction of new products and not more eco-products!

The controversial point

“However, it remains a decision of companies to include (or not) environmental claims in their voluntary commercial communications. This means that the companies can control their costs by determining the scope of the claim (if any) considering its expected return on investment. In short, the costs of substantiation are of a voluntary nature to companies as they are part of one’s marketing strategy and therefore credible estimations of the overall cost for the Union market are difficult.”

Therefore, rules aren’t mandatory for companies. Indeed, businesses have been given leeway on how to provide their evidence. Likewise, governments will be able to decline the guidelines when they transpose them into national legislation. 

In conclusion, without unified regulations, the EU plan to fight greenwashing won’t stop greenwashing!

Community: understanding the true meaning

Valuable insight from Simon Sinek

Now everything revolves around the concept of community. But can you understand the true meaning of it? Simon Sinek had the perfect response.

“A community is
a group of people
who agree to grow together.”
Simon Sinek

Community & growth

According to Simon Sinek, the purpose of a community is not just about having something in common, sharing a culture, heritage or a specific interest. It’s deeper than that. In fact, there’s an element of growth which comes from a journey you enrol in with a group of people. Specifically, growth is the product of a reciprocal process of shared interactions.

Community: making a change together

Fashion to celebrate the value of research and to tell the story of our times: this is a mission we share with people who want to make a change. And it’s a growth process, indeed. Because through our activity, we do more than just fashion. We use our blog and connections to discuss fashion and lifestyle as key to analysing society and promoting climate change awareness. And sustainability against greenwashing.

We started by ordering small productions of international brands and independent designers. An exclusive selection of timeless fashion and meaningful garments without gender barriers. While we are studying how to implement a practice of circular fashion, we shed light on what we consume and how we throw away, bringing about critical discussions.

What we learned

Our planet is an open-air landfill, and we must stop expecting our litter to disappear magically. Furthermore, we cannot move from capitalism to green capitalism just to keep consuming as we did before. We need something different to fight the climate emergency.

Buy less (far less), buy better is how we lead to thoughtful consumption.

Telling stories about fashion, lifestyle and climate change, inspiring and being inspired, we have a positive impact on each other. As a tiny community, we try to change for the better. And so we grow together, open to possibilities.

Corporate change & sustainability: this is greenwashing!

The era of branded change: how corporations deceive people

We are facing a new wind called corporate change: an intersection of sustainability and change. Specifically, corporations do it by advertising, sponsoring, hosting panels, summits, and so on. Which, in other words, sounds like branded change. 
Either sustainability needed marketing to reach a wider audience. Or, we can clearly say this is greenwashing! Smoke in the eye to make money.

The conversations on sustainability encounter the favour of corporations. Indeed, the more the discussions multiply, the more they need to get involved. Fingers in the pie! But since our planet has reached the point of no return, the narrative turns out as dangerous. And even if facades are beautiful, questions should arise.

Every day a new greenwashing candy!

Eco-conscious movements sponsored by big conglomerates.
Corporations like Coca Cola sponsoring COP27. 
Fashion group Inditex (Zara) partnering with WWF. 

It sounds weird. Don’t you think so?

And what about the fresh new one: UAE names oil chief to lead COP28 talks! Yes, an oil boss will lead the climate summit! 

Does it make any sense? Can we trust them? 

They make millions exploiting the planet, but they promote a conference to address climate change. It seems like one single institution sells the poison and the cure. All at the same time! 
There’s a name to call these practices, a definition understood internationally: conflict of interest. Perhaps corporations or top managers aren’t familiar with it!

How can we trust those who created the environmental destruction we ended up in? And still, they make money out of it! In order to prioritise profit and growth, corporations have taken deliberate decisions ignoring the side effects on the planet and on the people. 

Now they can even lead summits on the climate emergency, but they aren’t the ones who will ever bring effective solutions. 

Corporate change? This is greenwashing!

However, you might think what counts is spreading the conversation on sustainability, no matter who puts the money in to support it. Well, no! Those who say that have other purposes than change.  

We quote cobsinsights.com – “Can we trust corporate sustainability reporting?”:

“corporate or business sustainability is simply NOT planetary sustainability.”

And so, firms can invent stories to make the narrative engaging, but that doesn’t mean those stories are real. There’s a gap between talks and practice. All these people can do is keep an outdated system going.

Eventually, we can easily explain, in a few words, this new wind of corporate change & sustainability: this is greenwashing!

2022: a year in fashion

Looking back at 2022, it seems that this year in fashion went by without any tangible sign of change. Indeed, retracing the events and analysing how brands run their businesses, everyone went happily back to normal.

Fashion advertising

Advertising released catchy stories creating a bubble which depicted a universe disconnected from reality. Over the 80s and 90s, the context promoted superstars, but now the ostentation is pointless and not appealing.
As regards marketing, forget sustainability, it’s all about greenwashing.

2022 in fashion design

From a design viewpoint, less but better was supposed to be the guiding principle to help the industry move forward. A clean and more focused fresh restart after the pandemic. But it seems that message has not been taken seriously by fashion brands. Perhaps it was something nice to say during a tiring moment, a way to move with the flow. Indeed, we witnessed a setback during the last fashion shows.

Furthermore, now that celebrations and parties are back, sequins and cheap fabrics are everywhere, again. Just looking at the pictures on social media or advertising on tv, the poor quality of the materials is the first thing you notice!

There’s no escape! The imperative of cheap clothing, accessible products that give the illusion of richness, is still very strong.

Fashion industry in 2022

Likewise, fashion companies have set up no measures to reduce the impact on the environment. Also, considering working conditions, we are far from giving workers decent wages.

From luxury brands to fast fashion, the rules are almost the same. And the difference between one or the other segment is just a matter of spending power. By the way, fashion is in the hands of finance, big groups pursuing perpetual growth. Therefore, overproduction which in turn fosters overconsumption. And, this toxic practice is always at the heart of the fashion business.
The industry is immersed in a consumerist culture exploiting people and the planet without no understanding of the scale of destruction it carries around. And no will to change.

2022, has been another tough year in fashion.
Throughout the year, we wrote a lot about the need for a different way of operating the fashion business, but perhaps it was naive to expect it for real.

However, we’ll keep working in fashion, searching for quality, good design and uniqueness. Only what really counts, and in limited quantities.

#formodernhumans

Sustainable Christmas, the news says!

Festive season greenwashing is on

While people hunt for cheap gifts, TV is awash with stories about sustainable Christmas. And the narrative is getting awkward.

You must have heard the news describing millions of led lights that decorate towns or giant Christmas trees. Recyclable but enormous. Of course, in the spirit of a sustainable Christmas.

Millions. Giant. Any doubts? Are you ok with this version of the story?

Sustainable Christmas?

“Millions” and “sustainable” in the same sentence don’t make sense. But also, giant and sustainable sounds weird. However, in the middle of an energy crisis, with people invited to save electricity consumption, we expected something different than lights everywhere!
Even the idea: “Look, we change decorations every year, but we are sustainable!” is meaningless.

Greenwashing news is the practice of reporting nonsense to manipulate people. In the end, they talk about trillions of eco-friendly decorations to promote overconsumption and disposable gifts.

Overconsumption and cheap gifts

As the Christmas season approaches, disposable product supply grows enormously. Indeed, people want more, and retailers satisfy the request, triggering a vicious cycle that leaves no hope. During the festive season, all the resolutions about mindful consumption disappear.

Christmas is about finding cheap gifts, little presents that will end up soon in the trash bin. Unfortunately, our waste will not disappear.

Low-impact Christmas

This Christmas, purchase your gifts with a purpose: buy only items that will not end up in the landfill. Check materials: are they made to last? Don’t go for fast fashion or disposable items, but choose quality. For instance, a book is always a great gift.

Also, limit the packaging. Since metallic paper isn’t recyclable, use magazines, brown paper or newspapers to make your creative wrappings. And reuse your Christmas decorations, no one will be offended! Most importantly, don’t waste food.

Sustainable Christmas does not exist unless we are ready to change our habits completely. Choose meaningful gifts and inspire the others around you to see things differently.

Change the narrative and your actions to make Christmas sustainable for real!

The Sustainability Basics

Sustainability or greenwashing? Download the checklist to know more!

Sustainability is a vague concept, overused and confusing. When we are lucky, it’s an inspirational reference. But, in general, more than an effective change of paradigm that brands implement in their policy, it is a buzzword hiding a misleading intent. In other words, it’s greenwashing.

You happen to read about sustainable fashion, sustainable brands, and eco-conscious clothing and accessories. Indeed, sustainable labelled products are a good business. But brands label their products by claiming something that goes under zero control.

So, is there a lack of ethics? Or a lack of common sense? The discussion is open. And the business too.

Sustainability basics & how to promote a conscious shift

We understand that it is very difficult to say which garment or brand is sustainable and which is not. And it’s tricky even for those who work in the fashion industry. Imagine for a consumer!

So we thought of providing a list to help you develop critical behaviour towards your fashion purchases. Some points to help you become aware of the fashion industry’s practice and make better choices.

We made this checklist for you, and it’s free.

Download “The Sustainability Basics” list

The sustainability basics

We encourage you to download “The Sustainability Basics”, read and share it with your friends. Also, start conversations. Most importantly, don’t wait for brands to become sustainable. Educating yourself to become a conscious consumer is what you can actively do to enhance your lifestyle and change for the better.

Less stuff, more meaning is the evolved ethos #formodernhumans

By the way, we just opened the comments section on this blog. So we invite you to hit the “leave a comment” button and let us know your viewpoint. Only registered accounts can leave a comment.

Small communities can make change possible!

One last note: thank you, Leyla Jackson for your collaboration on this project!

Climate disaster: the closing window

A slap from the UN Environment Program report

Talking about fashion in the face of a climate disaster needs a radical attitude. Also, if we consider fashion a reflection of our society, we cannot start any discussion without setting priorities.

Climate change is the priority, and we need to understand what happens in order to make the right choices. Even when it’s about what we wear.

Climate disaster: the UN Environment Program

A few days ago, the UN Environment Program released a report which finds that “the international community is falling far short of the Paris goals, with no credible pathway to 1.5°C in place. Only an urgent system-wide transformation can avoid climate disaster.”

Are you surprised? Sadly, we are not. Sustainable is a trendy label. Indeed, we hear countless panels about sustainability because it is a popular topic. But they open their mouths just to put out words and make content for social media. No action that brings a positive impact ever follows. Therefore, they are pointless.

Furthermore, on November 6 in Sharm-El-Sheik – Egypt will be held the UN annual Conference of the Parties, COP27. There is no better opportunity to jump on a private jet and be part of a corporate event. And, this time, members participating can also enjoy a sunny place! It will be just another waste of money and resources.

What can we learn from this?

Climate change is an opportunity to drive business, and sustainability is the capitalistic response to the issue. Most sustainable brands represent a survival strategy set in place by capitalism. Indeed, corporations have flooded the market with green/organic/eco-friendly/low-impact/vegan/recycled/sustainable products. Nice buzzwords! Which, in essence, are empty claims. Misleading messages whose true face is greenwashing.

Our economic system cannot respond adequately to climate change because it is itself the cause. Buzzwords are just fluff! In fact, the negative impact of climate change grows every year.

The climate disaster calls for rapid transformation of societies and their economic system. And this transformation needs every nation and every community. All of us! Now!