fashion marketing

What Happened To Plus-Size Models?

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Inclusion and diversity or just marketing


What happened to plus-size models? We asked each other during the Milano Fashion Week 2023. But New York and London, too! They disappeared from the scene. Almost completely gone. Suggesting the recent novelty smelled so much of marketing.

Plus-size representation in fashion


However, our comment was not because we believe it made sense to represent different body shapes in a fashion show. That is for two reasons:
First, a defilè aims to show the dress, highlighting the details. Not the woman who wears it. Indeed, we believe “anonymous” models accomplish this task much better than supermodels because famous ones catch attention, while the dress becomes of secondary importance. Representation of all sizes has to be in the shops, where people must find different options suitable for their body shape. For instance, in our boutique’s selection, plus sizes never had problems finding beautiful clothes.
Second, it’s one thing to teach self-acceptance, we are unique individuals, so we should cherish our differences. But it’s another thing saying to young girls it’s good to be extremely overweight. Because it is not, but for a matter of health, not to fit in a standard, of course.

Plus-size models


So, apart from Dolce & Gabbana among the tops, there were no plus-sizes on the catwalks. Therefore, what can we argue? Was it a genuine interest in inclusion and diversity? Or was the fashion industry in a state of impasse and needed to jump on a popular trend? The smell of marketing seems clear.

Plus-size models were just a gimmick, an advertising stunt to spread the buzz and make people talk about fashion brands. In fact, in most cases, these women were dressed without any sense of style.

Just like us, many comments on the latest fashion shows wondered what happened to plus-size models. The message of inclusion and diversity, which apparently, provided a sense of liberation from cultural standards, was fake. Just marketing.

One of the most glorious fashion bullshit!

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Upcycling: The Future Of Fashion

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A trend or a permanent approach towards sustainable fashion?


Upcycling seems to be the future of fashion. Indeed, this technique is one of the best opportunities to make fashion a more sustainable industry. But is it just a trend? One of the buzzwords brands use to lure attention? Or is it here to stay?

Upcycling – what does it mean?


Upcycling means taking discarded materials, re-designing and reassembling them to create a product of higher value. While recycling transforms materials into something new, which implies more resources, having a higher impact, upcycling starts with existing materials, resulting in a lower impact. Therefore, this practice represents a pattern of circularity, the heart of sustainable fashion.

A personal note: family tradition


For us, daughters of a seamstress so passionate about making clothes that she even finished buttonholes by hand, it’s not a novelty. Since we were children, we’ve had familiarity with collecting buttons, zippers, and fabrics. Pieces from existing garments that mom would reshape to make something else: beautiful clothes for special occasions or garments and accessories for daily life. Our school bags and pencil case made of deadstock denim were fantastic.

upcycling

Upcycling, background notes


A memorable example of upcycling comes from the movie industry. Rossella O’Hara’s dress, made from curtains in “Gone with the wind”, belongs to our collective imagery.

Many blogs attribute the “upcycling discovery” to this or that designer for a promotional purpose. But we cannot avoid mentioning Mr Martin Margiela. Since the beginning, his aesthetic mastered the deconstruction and reinvention of found garments, culminating in 2006 when Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal was born.

On the same line, we mention Marc Le Bihan. A big part of his work consists in searching for vintage garments, deconstructing and reconstructing them. He upcycled military uniforms from the 40s, 50s, and 60s, reshaping them into modern pieces. With Swedish pants, he created a coat; with military pull, a gilet; and with smoking pants, a long skirt. Also, he created pieces with postal bags made of heavy linen for a catwalk.

Among young designers, Marine Serre’s creativity stands out. Indeed she is doing a great job with upcycling.

By exploring fashion history, we can see that upcycling is nothing new. But what brought it to the centre of attention was the pandemic, which spread a do-it-yourself trend among young people. Most importantly, it favoured the diffusion of particular attention towards sustainable fashion.

Nowadays, many famous brands ride the wave to stay popular. Though advisable to become sustainable, a fashion industry that almost entirely revolves around upcycled garments is hard to imagine.

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The New Gods: Rise and Fall Of The Celebrities Phenomenon

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How popularity drives people’s choices in today’s world


The new gods are inhabitants of our present-day civilization, celebrated like geniuses. yet, all they truly offer is their popularity–nothing more. There’s no Van Gogh, no Mozart or David Bowie among them. And no Cristobal Balenciaga or Jean Paul Gaultier. Meaning, no real geniuses.

We could summarise the latest events as “the rise and fall of the celebrities” phenomenon. And it has a lot to do with fashion brands.

The new gods are famous individuals. For some reason–perhaps not understandable to us–people put them on a pedestal. But, sooner or later, something goes wrong. So those who put them in that venerable position wake up like they had a revelation and push them down again.

The new gods & latest events


Specifically, we are talking about a couple of events that caused strong reactions.

First, much acclaimed Demna Gvasalia–considered one of the gods of fashion designers by international crowds–ended up on the slippery ground. So far applauded, even if his uglified Balenciaga seemed pointless. But, after his disgraceful campaign featuring sexualized kids, negative comments on social media multiplied. Of course, the campaign was unacceptable. However, his work was just about provocation, and perhaps he has simply run out of ideas.

By the way, so many people asked him to step down. Did they wake up altogether? Did it seem reasonable to kill Balenciaga’s heritage so far?

Second, Kayne West: rapper, producer and fashion designer. He spoke in support of the Nazis, and Twitter suspended his account. Did it make sense to listen to him, at least in the fashion field? Can his fans understand they made him rich?
(We explored the connection fashion / music here).

Celebrities and social media


These characters and their social media “emptiness” attract the masses. It’s a matter of understanding why so many people blindly fall in love with them, to the point of accepting absurdities. To the point of purchasing their products for so long, making them rich. 

Demna, Kayne. There’s a fil rouge connecting these celebrities’ phenomena, even though there are many more to mention in the club. The new gods, there are many of them! Born thanks to a shallow system based on tricking algorithms and, therefore, people. Who, in the end, proudly elevate them to a higher status.

Why masses follow the new gods


Contemporary society gives people credit for their popularity and follower base. Based on what? Are they geniuses? Do they have any valuable ideas? Any particular skill? No, their fame is everything. And provocation is all they can do. Out of that, nothing arises.

But they can move a lot of money. Simply because so many people give them credit.

Marketing plays a huge role in hammering with advertising and social campaigns. If someone invests money, it’s not difficult to influence people and make more money. They will trust blindly!

Individuals lose connections with their brain activity and buy into any product or idea, even if they make no sense!

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News From The Fashion Industry

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What’s going on in fashion?


Reading the latest news from the fashion industry feels like an earthquake is happening. And what a week it’s been!

A brief fashion news recap


Alessandro Michele is exiting Gucci. Honestly, we aren’t sad about it. The maison and its new designer, whoever will be, will face a tough challenge to clean up the circus he made. And bring back the heritage and historical relevance of the brand.

Balenciaga: another brand that has intentionally killed its heritage to undertake a nonsensical path. Moreover, the brand released one of the most disturbing advertising campaigns to launch their plush bags. Children holding bondage teddy bear bags somehow connected to paedophilia is a disgusting message. Not only sexualising kids is horrendous. But it is a clear sign of a lack of ideas. By the way, we could live without plush bags these days!

Raf Simons is shutting his namesake brand, maybe to focus on Prada. Even though he is a great designer, there is something we miss. Since he started his co-designing collaboration with Prada, the Balenciagitis phenomenon has affected his vision. Indeed, exaggerated jackets reminded Balenciaga so much that they seemed borrowed from their fashion show! As a result, Prada stopped being copied and started copying instead.

Where is fashion heading?


So, where is fashion heading? A reflection on this topic is necessary. Can the fashion industry evolve from its current state of confusion?

The pandemic was a game changer, but big groups ignored it. Indeed, they thought they could keep going with their business model: overproduction and making a lot of money. But it seems that provocations and logoed items aren’t enough to survive.

This is fashion in the hands of finance: a blob of mass products. Items covered with logos, taken to the extreme and pretty ignorant. Also, designers lost their crucial role, and marketing experts took their place.

However, we cannot ignore the meaning of the latest news from the fashion industry: reality has dramatically changed, and a new path is needed. Therefore, if brands don’t bring about new ideas, marketing experts will sell their logoed items on another planet!

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