fashion marketing

The marketing dilemma: The wants vs needs paradox

Reading Time: 4 minutes

Give people what they want — or understand what the planet needs? And then, make a change?


The marketing dilemma—wants vs needs—is a true paradox.
Marketing experts preach one golden rule: Give people what they want. Specifically, empathise so deeply with your audience that you anticipate their desires.

Fast fashion obeys, flooding the market with cheap, disposable clothes. Luxury brands, ironically, follow the same model. Other industries—from cosmetics to tech—are no different.

But this “wants-first” mantra has a dark side: overproduction, waste, and greenwashed illusions.

If marketing is about empathy, why does it fuel a system that harms people and the planet? Or is empathy just the new frontier of brainwashing?

Above all, in our daily business, should we cater to wants—or to what makes sense in the face of climate collapse and societal breakdown?

The marketing trap: Why “give them what they want” fails fashion


The industry runs on a simple formula: identify desire, amplify it, profit. But what if the desire itself is engineered?

  • The illusion of choice:
    Consumers feel empowered because they can afford endless products. Shop more = happiness. But are they truly choosing, or just playing a rigged game? The truth? A system built on exploitation and injustice offers sweeteners—cheap prices, fleeting trends—to mask its harm. 
  • Advertising’s fantasy:
    Fast fashion sells “luxury for all,” while luxury brands mimic fast fashion’s speed. Both rely on the same lie: You need this—and you deserve it. They sell fantasies of luxury, exclusivity, and sustainability while churning out exploitative, planet-killing products.
  • The dopamine loop:
    Social media, flash sales, and FOMO turn shopping into an addiction. Dopamine-driven consumption keeps people buying. The algorithm wins; the planet loses.

The marketing dilemma: Profit vs. reinvention


Here’s the crux: profit or reinvention?
Brands that pivot to sustainability cater to a niche. But these brands face a brutal truth: Ethics don’t scale like exploitation.

In fact, the penalty of being niche is clear. Sustainability requires degrowth. It means smaller margins, slower growth, and putting off mass-market shoppers. Even “conscious” consumers often revert to cheap fixes.

So, what to do? Raise prices? Reduce stock? Risk becoming “irrelevant” in a world trained to expect endless newness.

In our experience, shifting from a broad selection of international brands to a narrowed-down niche curation of meaningful garments has hurt profits. Few understand the value of “no fluff” curation. Most still chase low prices—regardless of human or planetary cost.

But who’s to blame? Brands for manipulating desire? Consumers for complying? Or marketing for refusing to challenge the status quo? Or pretending so?

Can marketing break the cycle?


The same tools that created this mess could fix it—if used differently.

• First, reframing the “Want”: What if marketing created demand for durability, not disposability? 
• Second, honesty as a strategy: Limited productions, slowness, and imperfection are virtues.

But will this work for the mainstream? It’s worth a try. We’re trying. Yet we fear the system itself—exploitative and rigid—will suffocate those who don’t conform.

Final thoughts: The mirror crack’d


In the face of climate change, the marketing dilemma—wants vs needs—reveals itself as a true paradox. The paradox of preserving an economic system that comes at the planet’s expense. A system that persists despite generating appalling inequalities and societal breakdown. 

Yet we’ve come to understand that what people want—cheap prices, overconsumption—directly contradicts what the planet needs.

So we face a choice: Do we continue giving people what they want, further overloading the planet? Or do we persist in narrowing our garment curation, knowing we’ll only reach a handful of free thinkers?

Fashion is a mirror of society. Right now, it reflects our addiction to consumption, our short attention spans, and our disconnect from the consequences of our choices. But mirrors can crack—and so can this system. 

The rise of second-hand, repair culture, slow fashion, and limited curations proves some are awakening.

We must ask: Who’s willing to look beyond their own reflection?

The essential question isn’t “What do you want?”—it’s “What are you willing to stop wanting?”


Three big questions: What do YOU want?

  • Would you pay more for ethical fashion? Do you care about sustainability, or is price still king? Be honest.
  • If you say you care about the planet but still buy 10 cheap tops a month—what’s stopping you from changing?
  • Should marketing change wants, not just cater to them?

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Creativity in Fashion: A Hollow Shell

Reading Time: 3 minutes

The most present word in fashion debates, yet absent in practice


Creativity is one of the most overused and misrepresented words in the fashion industry—a once-vibrant ideal now reduced to a hollow shell. A broken promise. What was meant to be the heart, the spark, the very foundation of fashion has been pushed to the periphery, sidelined in favour of other priorities. Yet, everybody now talks about it.

2024: an omnipresent, hollow shell of a word


Throughout 2024, the word “creativity” dominated every panel discussion, CEO interview, and designer or creative director reshuffle. It felt like an industry-wide admission: “We’ve been focusing on marketing, naming new creative directors, and growth and then growth again. But we lost sight of creativity.”  

For instance, consider the interview with Frédéric Grangié, Chanel’s Head of Watches and Jewellery, in Le Temps. Grangié cautioned that the luxury industry is facing a profound crisis—one that goes beyond the temporary challenges of economic slowdowns. He highlighted a fundamental shift: luxury is losing its mystique as the allure of exclusivity diminishes and customers grow increasingly disillusioned with high-end brands.

Grangié’s message was unequivocal: genuine creativity, coupled with a long-term strategy, is the only viable path forward. Without these, luxury brands risk losing their essence and faltering under the weight of the growing crisis.

Fashion & creativity


Indeed, brands have lost their distinctiveness, morphing into interchangeable entities. An industry once revered for its idiosyncratic creativity has devolved into a hollow vessel, prioritising profit over vision. The relentless chase for marketability and fleeting trends has stripped many maisons of their credibility and authenticity. Also, it relegated creativity to a secondary, almost insignificant role.

As a result, the fashion industry finds itself at an impasse. Simultaneously, prices have skyrocketed—often without justification—further alienating consumers. And yet, in a striking irony, the same experts now declare, “We need to focus on creativity.”

Really? Dear mainstream brands, what have you been offering all this time?
According to the Cambridge Dictionary, creativity is the ability to produce original and imaginative ideas or to create something new.
Isn’t that supposed to be your role?

Conclusion


In short, fashion was once a vibrant celebration of creativity and craftsmanship. A space where ideas flourished and vision reigned supreme. Over time, however, this core spark has been sidelined, overshadowed by greed, financial gain, and unsustainable growth. What was once the heart of the industry—creativity—now stands as a hollow shell, a mere echo of its former vitality.

Now, we are afraid it’s being called back into focus—not out of genuine reverence, but as a desperate response to declining business.


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Netflix: Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy – Why you should watch

Reading Time: 4 minutes

Corporate tricks that encourage overconsumption and why accountability matters


The latest Netflix documentary on sustainability, Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy, released on November 20th this year, is a must-watch for anyone who shops—anywhere.

12,000, 25,000, 36,000, and 1.3 million. What do these numbers represent? They are the staggering quantities of items produced annually by Gap, H&M, Zara, and Shein, respectively.

Intrigued by how we, as consumers, are persuaded to buy more than we need, I decided to watch it. The trailer promised a compelling exploration of this phenomenon.

Netflix, Buy Now!: Corporate manipulation exposed


Have you ever wondered where all those products go—the ones we discard without a second thought? This so-called “away” isn’t some magical place. It’s real, and it’s devastating.

This is where away is:


Netflix’s Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy takes an instructional approach to unravel the system behind overconsumption. The documentary is structured around five shocking directives: sell more, waste more, lie more, hide more, and control more.
Throughout these segments, former insiders from Amazon, Apple, Unilever, and Adidas reveal how companies manipulate us. Eric Liedtke, former Adidas Brand President, explains it bluntly: “You don’t need a new piece of clothing; you need a compelling reason to buy it.”

Netflix Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy – Official trailer


Have you noticed that the colour of Sprite bottles is no longer green but clear plastic? Even these subtle changes have a sinister purpose. Coca-Cola made the change to hide the environmental impact of their products. In fact, when the bottles were green they were easily identifiable in landfills.

But the manipulation doesn’t stop at marketing. It extends to how products are designed, determining their lifespan and whether they can be repaired. These calculated decisions ensure a cycle of relentless consumption, benefiting corporations at the expense of people and the planet.

The impact of product design and consumer behaviour


In today’s world, items are no longer built to last, they have short lifespans. Phones get replaced every three years, and clothing falls apart after a few washes so people replace it every month, if not weekly.

There are some things my family has had for more than ten years that have lasted the test of time, from our Christmas tree my parents bought more than twenty years ago to the dining table they have that has been repurposed into a desk. These pieces were built to last, unlike many products today. Take my computer, for instance. In the six years I’ve owned it, I’ve had to replace the battery. But, the battery is glued inside the device, requiring the replacement of an entire panel.

This isn’t an accident. Kyle Wiens, CEO of iFixit, says Apple censors information so that consumers find it harder to repair devices, making them more likely to buy a new one.
A prime example of this approach is wireless earphones. They are designed with batteries precisely placed and glued into the devices, making replacements nearly impossible. The result? Consumers are left with no choice but to discard and replace them when the battery dies—further fuelling the cycle of waste.

The design flaws and deliberate barriers to repairability aren’t going unnoticed. Recent efforts, such as New York’s legislation on the right to repair electronic products and the EU’s new environmental regulations, demonstrate a growing awareness of the issue. While some companies are taking steps toward sustainability, these efforts remain insufficient to counteract the immense damage already done.

Conclusion: Netflix Buy Now! No novelty, but worth watching


It may not be a groundbreaking concept, but the Netflix documentary Buy Now! effectively exposes corporate manipulation. Hopefully, it will reach a broader audience.

While corporations and governments bear the greatest responsibility for systemic change, as individuals we hold significant power too. We can demand accountability from companies, advocate for action through our local representatives and most importantly, make mindful choices in our daily lives. This means buying less, prioritising true quality garments that are made to last and exploring vintage or second-hand options whenever possible.

Before making your next purchase, ask yourself: Do I really need that new fast-fashion dress?

Every decision we make has the power to challenge the status quo and contribute to a more sustainable future.


✍️ Post written by Sorcha Gorman, a scholar from Melbourne / Australia, studying Public Relations at Università Cattolica in Milan. Currently interning with suite123.

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Value For Money: The Fashion Industry Pain

Reading Time: 3 minutes

The price-quality disconnect in fashion eroding consumers’ trust


As the fashion industry grapples with economic uncertainty and slowing growth, the concept of ‘value for money‘ has become more significant. For many consumers, a critical question looms: is what we’re buying truly worth the price? 

Value for money: price, quality, perceived value


But what exactly does ‘value for money’ mean? Simply put, it measures whether the quality or benefit of a purchase justifies its cost. In essence, it’s about whether an item is truly worth the price. It’s a balance of quality and price over the sheer abundance of choice.

Fashion brands convey a message of identity and status. Prices play a pivotal role in this storytelling – brands set their price points, shaping how customers perceive their products. A price tag is more than a number; it communicates the brand’s qualities and positions it within the market spectrum: budget at the lower end, luxury at the top, and value somewhere in between.

Specifically, luxury brands captivate shoppers who prioritize quality and prestige over cost. However, their success isn’t solely tied to high prices. True luxury embodies unique characteristics: items handcrafted by skilled artisans, the use of uncommon or exceptional materials, often in limited production.

The shift in the fashion industry


Over time, pricing strategies in the fashion industry have reflected a fundamental shift in its structure. What began as family-run businesses rooted in creativity and savoir-faire has evolved into corporations focused on finance, growth, and profit. This transition transformed luxury fashion from a niche industry producing for the few into one catering to the masses.

When price betrays quality


But in recent years, prices have increased disproportionately, often without justification. As a result, customer trust has eroded, and many consumers are beginning to see through the facade. High-profile investigations into luxury brands like Armani and Dior have exposed common industry practices: exploitation, drastic reductions in quality, and inflated prices – all aimed at maximizing profits.

However, brands cannot simply lower their prices and flood the market with cheaper products, as Andrea Guerra, CEO of Prada Group, has pointed out. Indeed, he candidly admitted that “raising prices so much was a huge mistake.” As a solution, Guerra emphasizes the need for ‘better stories.’ But storytelling alone cannot restore trust if the core issue -disproportionate pricing – remains unaddressed. If even luxury clients no longer perceive luxury in what they purchase, it signals a total loss of credibility.

Value for money: keeping the promise


Better stories might sound appealing, but without substance, they amount to little more than marketing gloss. A compelling narrative won’t convince shoppers if brands continue selling polyester at the price of silk. The true brand value lies in delivering genuine quality, and right now, luxury brands are falling short.

Ultimately, the path to rebuilding consumers’ trust lies in keeping the promise. Consumers will fall in love with brands again when the price reflects quality, and when brands deliver the value they claim to represent.

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Emerging Brands Can’t Afford the Fashion Industry

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Red carpets free-outfits expose a sick system


Emerging brands can’t afford the cost of the fashion industry. The contemporary fashion industry poses insurmountable challenges for emerging designers, especially regarding the financial burden of celebrity endorsements. This issue was thrust into the spotlight by an Instagram post from 1Granary, which resonated deeply and exposed the harsh reality of an unsustainable system.

We explored this topic in 2021, but the situation remains unchanged, highlighting the persistent struggles new designers face in an industry dominated by high costs and elite influencers.

We have reached a point where celebrities collect numerous outfits from various brands, both famous and emerging. While established brands pay celebrities to wear their clothes, emerging designers often provide garments for free, lured by the promise of gaining visibility. However, this exposure doesn’t pay the rent. More often than not, the provided outfits are never worn and are returned at the designer’s expense, highlighting a glaring lack of respect and consideration.

What’s the point of stars wearing luxury designer clothes on red carpets when it’s common knowledge they don’t pay for these outfits?

Red carpets & free outfits: Exposing a bloated and sick system


Let us express a few considerations:

  • Corporations own luxury brands and have the funds to promote a system that manipulates consumer behaviour.
  • This is marketing! Marketing has always targeted women, traditionally deemed as fragile and easy to influence or manipulate. Unfortunately, women fall into this trap.
  • Historical Context: In the 1980s, Giorgio Armani pioneered the strategy of dressing Hollywood stars to sell to the American middle class. In an era of massive overproduction and a booming economy, perhaps this strategy made sense. Following Armani’s lead, other designers began giving outfits to stars, resulting in the middle class – primarily women – purchasing these outfits.
  • Current Realities: Today, the landscape is starkly different. The middle class has been eroded, and the economic model is collapsing. Amid ecological breakdown, this marketing tactic feels increasingly obsolete and irresponsible. Most importantly, some consumers are tired of being treated as mere tools in a marketing ploy.

Conclusion: How can emerging brands afford this fashion system?


In essence, the fashion industry has flipped the script: celebrities who can easily afford expensive clothes are given outfits for free. And they are even paid to wear them. This reversal means that those who are most able to buy these clothes are not the ones contributing to the industry’s profits. While those who can least afford to bear the costs are manipulated into purchasing overpriced items. This system creates a distorted market. But also inflates retail prices, as the cost of celebrity marketing is passed on to consumers.

Clearly, emerging designers can’t afford the financial burdens imposed by the contemporary fashion industry. This entire system lacks logic and respect, leaving new talents struggling to survive.

Imagine a different approach: What if celebrities purchase their outfits? Luxury designers could donate the proceeds to charity, and emerging designers could support their creative work and pay their rent. This vision promotes a fashion industry that supports creativity and fairness, rather than perpetuating a cycle of exploitation and exclusion.

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