fashion education

The Vivienne Westwood Legacy

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What can we learn from the iconic fashion designer?


Our first post of the year is a tribute to Vivienne Westwood, one of the most revolutionary figures in the fashion system. Sadly, the iconic fashion designer passed away on December 29, aged 81.

Also known as the queen of punk because she started her career in the seventies with her punk designs, Westwood was consistent with her style throughout her life.

Instead of retracing her influential career, we prefer to focus on what made her unique, highlight her legacy and explore what we can learn from it.

What is peculiar is that her fashion wasn’t the expression of finance but reflected her free creativity and values. Most importantly, she worked for something bigger than fashion. Indeed, she used her voice not only to make clothes but as a platform to raise awareness, fight climate change and support human rights.

Vivienne Westwood and sustainable fashion

“Buy less, choose well, make it last. Quality, non quantity. Everybody’s buying far too many clothes.”

Vivienne Westwood

The above quote is the base of sustainable fashion and the essence of an evolved style. But also, it is the guiding principle for a sustainable lifestyle.

First, “buy less!” – nothing is more sustainable than this. So, reject the obsession with novelties and become a selective, conscious consumer. Reducing the number of pieces we purchase means taking only meaningful garments.
Second, “choose well” – pay attention to quality and design. So, learn to discern good quality from the rubbish, which we don’t have to support necessarily.
Third, “make it last” – love your clothes, and learn to take care of them properly. Also learn to mix and match them, as beautiful pieces are never inappropriate.

However, here you can understand the inconsistency of the fashion industry. Indeed, fashion brands talk about sustainability but put into production tons of new items every season. Not to mention fast fashion brands, who release new clothing pieces every week!

Westwood: a legacy to grasp


Being a political and environmental activist, Vivienne Westwood recently said: “Capitalism is a crime. It is the root cause of war, climate change and corruption.”

But, aren’t the same top brands part of that capitalistic game?

We can learn a lot from someone who worked with such a passion and has never conformed to the standards. Or to the logo obsession we see today. The Vivienne Westwood legacy shows that fashion without a vision is nothing. Therefore, sustainable fashion without ideas and without good design is just marketing. Another business added to the many other ones already existing.

In short, the power of unpopular ideas stands out. Will any young designer grasp this legacy?

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The New Gods: Rise and Fall Of The Celebrities Phenomenon

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How popularity drives people’s choices in today’s world


The new gods are inhabitants of our present-day civilization, celebrated like geniuses. yet, all they truly offer is their popularity–nothing more. There’s no Van Gogh, no Mozart or David Bowie among them. And no Cristobal Balenciaga or Jean Paul Gaultier. Meaning, no real geniuses.

We could summarise the latest events as “the rise and fall of the celebrities” phenomenon. And it has a lot to do with fashion brands.

The new gods are famous individuals. For some reason–perhaps not understandable to us–people put them on a pedestal. But, sooner or later, something goes wrong. So those who put them in that venerable position wake up like they had a revelation and push them down again.

The new gods & latest events


Specifically, we are talking about a couple of events that caused strong reactions.

First, much acclaimed Demna Gvasalia–considered one of the gods of fashion designers by international crowds–ended up on the slippery ground. So far applauded, even if his uglified Balenciaga seemed pointless. But, after his disgraceful campaign featuring sexualized kids, negative comments on social media multiplied. Of course, the campaign was unacceptable. However, his work was just about provocation, and perhaps he has simply run out of ideas.

By the way, so many people asked him to step down. Did they wake up altogether? Did it seem reasonable to kill Balenciaga’s heritage so far?

Second, Kayne West: rapper, producer and fashion designer. He spoke in support of the Nazis, and Twitter suspended his account. Did it make sense to listen to him, at least in the fashion field? Can his fans understand they made him rich?
(We explored the connection fashion / music here).

Celebrities and social media


These characters and their social media “emptiness” attract the masses. It’s a matter of understanding why so many people blindly fall in love with them, to the point of accepting absurdities. To the point of purchasing their products for so long, making them rich. 

Demna, Kayne. There’s a fil rouge connecting these celebrities’ phenomena, even though there are many more to mention in the club. The new gods, there are many of them! Born thanks to a shallow system based on tricking algorithms and, therefore, people. Who, in the end, proudly elevate them to a higher status.

Why masses follow the new gods


Contemporary society gives people credit for their popularity and follower base. Based on what? Are they geniuses? Do they have any valuable ideas? Any particular skill? No, their fame is everything. And provocation is all they can do. Out of that, nothing arises.

But they can move a lot of money. Simply because so many people give them credit.

Marketing plays a huge role in hammering with advertising and social campaigns. If someone invests money, it’s not difficult to influence people and make more money. They will trust blindly!

Individuals lose connections with their brain activity and buy into any product or idea, even if they make no sense!

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News From The Fashion Industry

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What’s going on in fashion?


Reading the latest news from the fashion industry feels like an earthquake is happening. And what a week it’s been!

A brief fashion news recap


Alessandro Michele is exiting Gucci. Honestly, we aren’t sad about it. The maison and its new designer, whoever will be, will face a tough challenge to clean up the circus he made. And bring back the heritage and historical relevance of the brand.

Balenciaga: another brand that has intentionally killed its heritage to undertake a nonsensical path. Moreover, the brand released one of the most disturbing advertising campaigns to launch their plush bags. Children holding bondage teddy bear bags somehow connected to paedophilia is a disgusting message. Not only sexualising kids is horrendous. But it is a clear sign of a lack of ideas. By the way, we could live without plush bags these days!

Raf Simons is shutting his namesake brand, maybe to focus on Prada. Even though he is a great designer, there is something we miss. Since he started his co-designing collaboration with Prada, the Balenciagitis phenomenon has affected his vision. Indeed, exaggerated jackets reminded Balenciaga so much that they seemed borrowed from their fashion show! As a result, Prada stopped being copied and started copying instead.

Where is fashion heading?


So, where is fashion heading? A reflection on this topic is necessary. Can the fashion industry evolve from its current state of confusion?

The pandemic was a game changer, but big groups ignored it. Indeed, they thought they could keep going with their business model: overproduction and making a lot of money. But it seems that provocations and logoed items aren’t enough to survive.

This is fashion in the hands of finance: a blob of mass products. Items covered with logos, taken to the extreme and pretty ignorant. Also, designers lost their crucial role, and marketing experts took their place.

However, we cannot ignore the meaning of the latest news from the fashion industry: reality has dramatically changed, and a new path is needed. Therefore, if brands don’t bring about new ideas, marketing experts will sell their logoed items on another planet!

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Timeless Fashion Beyond The Buzzword

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Do you know what timeless fashion really means?


The concept of timeless fashion, beyond the buzzword, is misleading. It’s one of the many empty claims you hear everywhere. Unfortunately, when you put together fashion and marketing, the risk of pointless shit is pretty high.

In brand profiles and social media, you read about clothes sold as timeless, but the misinterpretation is clear. For instance, brands or retailers describe the features of their magnificent timeless garments to introduce discounts! So, is that the point of timelessness? We don’t think so. On the other hand, people cannot understand that, even if from the previous season, meaningful pieces aren’t outdated. There’s value in good design and quality.

At first, timelessness in the fashion field may seem like a contradiction because fashion is about periodic changes. But these changes have become so frequent that the industry is out of hand. Indeed, it makes sense to go back to past times when a made-to-last vision prevailed. Timeless guides us towards an evolved mindset facilitating a sustainable lifestyle.

The impact of fashion and textile overproduction on climate change is tangible. Unless you still choose to ignore it. Lately, the industry has moved from fast to ultra-fast fashion, generating mountains of waste. And so, timeless is our way out. It represents the possibility towards a conscious lifestyle. In fact, by refocusing our shopping habits, we contribute to limiting the disasters we have made so far.

What does timeless mean?


So, what does timeless mean? It refers to items that last forever—things that remain unchanged as the years go by.

Therefore, timeless design doesn’t change completely season by season. Items are classics. And classics are made to last: higher quality and good design. And so, heavy discounts on these products aren’t consistent.

Finally, refocusing on a caring and evolved attitude should also help you to change your vision of “new.” Timeless design is the opposite of disposable fashion. And has nothing to do with a compulsive desire for novelties, destructive behaviour that doesn’t understand the value of garments and work. But it is just a frenzy reaction to a consumerist society.

So, forget empty marketing claims. We don’t search for convenience, but we search for worth. Beyond the buzzword, this is what timeless fashion means: meaningful garments with no expiry date!

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Why Good Design First?

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Designers’ responsibility to provide the answer for a sustainable future


Good design is everything because that is the starting point for any serious discussion about fashion. And even more when the analysis touches on sustainability.

Indeed, whenever we meet students and interns who want to know more about fashion and sustainability, first, we show them brands that focus on exceptional design. Then we can talk about the rest. And not because we aren’t involved in sustainability!

Good design first


So, why design first? Because it’s the core element where you find answers as it reflects a creative vision which gives sense to a product. Designers who have something to say translate their ideas into their products by creating beautiful pieces that are meaningful and timeless. They carefully select materials, choose to recycle fabrics or use particular hand-dyed processes and artisanal workings. They value their employees because an ethical approach is part of their philosophy.
So their garments are rich. Indeed, you can see there’s a lot of substance in them.

Why good design
From Marc Le Bihan showroom in Milano


If brands lack design, there’s no point in developing entire collections. Therefore, sustainability matters are solved quickly: we don’t need them.

When designers have nothing to say, you will see archives looted, stolen ideas and tons of marketing labels and catchphrases. Sometimes you may even see nice garments but without a soul. Perhaps these products are easier to sell, but they have no value. So, from a sustainable viewpoint, no reason to exist.

Indeed good design is the core principle, the reason to exist, and the deep meaning of a fashion brand. Furthermore, in a phase of transition and profound change like the time we are living, designers have the moral responsibility to make meaningful products. And so, quality made to last, no overproduction, no push to overconsume, and decent wages.

The task of designers is to trace new pathways while respecting people and the planet. Sustainability is embedded in their patterns, and their designs must provide answers for an evolved lifestyle #formodernhumans

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