fashion education

Creativity in Fashion: A Hollow Shell

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

The most present word in fashion debates, yet absent in practice


Creativity is one of the most overused and misrepresented words in the fashion industry—a once-vibrant ideal now reduced to a hollow shell. A broken promise. What was meant to be the heart, the spark, the very foundation of fashion has been pushed to the periphery, sidelined in favour of other priorities. Yet, everybody now talks about it.

2024: an omnipresent, hollow shell of a word


Throughout 2024, the word “creativity” dominated every panel discussion, CEO interview, and designer or creative director reshuffle. It felt like an industry-wide admission: “We’ve been focusing on marketing, naming new creative directors, and growth and then growth again. But we lost sight of creativity.”  

For instance, consider the interview with Frédéric Grangié, Chanel’s Head of Watches and Jewellery, in Le Temps. Grangié cautioned that the luxury industry is facing a profound crisis—one that goes beyond the temporary challenges of economic slowdowns. He highlighted a fundamental shift: luxury is losing its mystique as the allure of exclusivity diminishes and customers grow increasingly disillusioned with high-end brands.

Grangié’s message was unequivocal: genuine creativity, coupled with a long-term strategy, is the only viable path forward. Without these, luxury brands risk losing their essence and faltering under the weight of the growing crisis.

Fashion & creativity


Indeed, brands have lost their distinctiveness, morphing into interchangeable entities. An industry once revered for its idiosyncratic creativity has devolved into a hollow vessel, prioritising profit over vision. The relentless chase for marketability and fleeting trends has stripped many maisons of their credibility and authenticity. Also, it relegated creativity to a secondary, almost insignificant role.

As a result, the fashion industry finds itself at an impasse. Simultaneously, prices have skyrocketed—often without justification—further alienating consumers. And yet, in a striking irony, the same experts now declare, “We need to focus on creativity.”

Really? Dear mainstream brands, what have you been offering all this time?
According to the Cambridge Dictionary, creativity is the ability to produce original and imaginative ideas or to create something new.
Isn’t that supposed to be your role?

Conclusion


In short, fashion was once a vibrant celebration of creativity and craftsmanship. A space where ideas flourished and vision reigned supreme. Over time, however, this core spark has been sidelined, overshadowed by greed, financial gain, and unsustainable growth. What was once the heart of the industry—creativity—now stands as a hollow shell, a mere echo of its former vitality.

Now, we are afraid it’s being called back into focus—not out of genuine reverence, but as a desperate response to declining business.

🖤 We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears. 

📲 Connect with us on WhatsApp, by e-mail, or by commenting below (just register first).

Let’s start a conversation!

#formodernhumans

Creativity in Fashion: A Hollow Shell Read More »

The Luxury Shame: A Growing Sentiment

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 2 minutes

How the perception of luxury is evolving in a changing world


“Luxury shame” has emerged as one of the most pressing realities highlighted in the latest Altagamma Observatory 2024. It represents a shift towards avoiding ostentation, favouring discretion, and supporting local products.

Take China, for example, where government policies have actively discouraged conspicuous displays of wealth. In times of crisis, the Chinese government seeks to shield the younger generation from materialism by curbing excessive consumption and promoting the purchase of domestic goods. However, this sentiment extends beyond China, casting ripples that impact global luxury brands.

What does ‘luxury shame’ means?


But what exactly is luxury shame? It refers to a behavioural trend among affluent individuals, particularly those in the upper-middle class, who feel uncomfortable displaying their wealth publicly. They fear social judgement, or worse, being vilified by those less fortunate.

We have long questioned the decline of luxury brands. Their strategy of inflating prices while compromising on quality is increasingly glaring. Mass-produced goods, no matter how expensive, fail to embody true luxury. True luxury is not about price tags; it is about craftsmanship, rarity, and authenticity—qualities many so-called luxury products seem to lack today.

So, more in detail, what is luxury? As Coco Chanel aptly stated: “Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity.”

Since the advent of social media, we have been inundated with images flaunting luxury. Yet, in this deluge, vulgarity has flourished. The pervasive portrayal of luxury is often exaggerated, inauthentic, and gaudy, eroding the essence of elegance. As contemporary luxury has expanded, true elegance seems to have vanished entirely.

Conclusion


In these times of instability and perma-crisis, luxury shame has become a powerful counterforce, with ostentatious displays of wealth increasingly condemned as vulgar and inappropriate. Could this herald a transformation, purging social media of its garish excess?
While a complete reset may be unlikely, it may ignite a much-needed shift towards a more thoughtful, refined, and genuinely elegant direction.

The Luxury Shame: A Growing Sentiment Read More »

Isn’t the Relentless Game of Musical Chairs Fueling Fashion’s Inconsistency?

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 2 minutes

Questioning the strategy behind the constant change of creative directors


A while back, we wrote a post about creative directors and the relentless game of musical chairs—a situation that has become increasingly common. Now, the topic has resurfaced abruptly across several fashion brands. As they hop from chair to chair, is it about power, visibility, or something else?

Last week, breaking news revealed significant shifts at the helm of major brands. Specifically, Galliano has departed from Margiela with no news yet of his next destination. Matthieu Blazy left Bottega Veneta for Chanel, while Louise Trotter departed Carven to join Bottega Veneta—finally, a woman at the forefront. Moreover, rumours are circulating about Jonathan Anderson preparing for a new role.

These frequent changes evoke the game of musical chairs: they provide plenty to talk about but often leave people perplexed. Yet, this appears to be the prevailing strategy of luxury fashion brands, with designers seemingly changing every few years.

What is the strategy behind the relentless game of musical chairs?


But what is the strategy behind these moves? Is it simply a way to stay in the spotlight, dominate conversations, and remain relevant? Are brands confident that luxury shoppers prefer fleeting buzz over meaningful products that embody the values of a specific brand—products of which there is almost no trace?

Many creative directors show little to no respect for the heritage and DNA of the brands they represent. Meanwhile, scepticism towards the concept of luxury continues to grow, even because luxury products do not keep their promise. Do they not realise that this constant game of musical chairs risks further damaging the image of luxury itself?

Conclusion


This excessive shuffling has significant consequences: brands lose identity and consistency, while consumer trust erodes. The original design codes and unique DNA that once defined each maison become blurred, leaving the brands looking increasingly alike. Yet, in an industry dominated by oversized egos, appointing a new creative director seems to be the ultimate goal for luxury brands—even at the cost of trust and respect.

In conclusion, this constant turnover appears to be the prevailing strategy for luxury maisons—something consumers will need to get used to. But is this revolving door truly beneficial for the brands? Or is the relentless game of musical chairs only fuelling fashion’s inconsistency?

Isn’t the Relentless Game of Musical Chairs Fueling Fashion’s Inconsistency? Read More »

Netflix: Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy – Why you should watch

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 4 minutes

Corporate tricks that encourage overconsumption and why accountability matters


The latest Netflix documentary on sustainability, Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy, released on November 20th this year, is a must-watch for anyone who shops—anywhere.

12,000, 25,000, 36,000, and 1.3 million. What do these numbers represent? They are the staggering quantities of items produced annually by Gap, H&M, Zara, and Shein, respectively.

Intrigued by how we, as consumers, are persuaded to buy more than we need, I decided to watch it. The trailer promised a compelling exploration of this phenomenon.

Netflix, Buy Now!: Corporate manipulation exposed


Have you ever wondered where all those products go—the ones we discard without a second thought? This so-called “away” isn’t some magical place. It’s real, and it’s devastating.

This is where away is:

The land of waste


Netflix’s Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy takes an instructional approach to unravel the system behind overconsumption. The documentary is structured around five shocking directives: sell more, waste more, lie more, hide more, and control more.
Throughout these segments, former insiders from Amazon, Apple, Unilever, and Adidas reveal how companies manipulate us. Eric Liedtke, former Adidas Brand President, explains it bluntly: “You don’t need a new piece of clothing; you need a compelling reason to buy it.”

Netflix Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy – Official trailer


Have you noticed that the colour of Sprite bottles is no longer green but clear plastic? Even these subtle changes have a sinister purpose. Coca-Cola made the change to hide the environmental impact of their products. In fact, when the bottles were green they were easily identifiable in landfills.

But the manipulation doesn’t stop at marketing. It extends to how products are designed, determining their lifespan and whether they can be repaired. These calculated decisions ensure a cycle of relentless consumption, benefiting corporations at the expense of people and the planet.

The impact of product design and consumer behaviour


In today’s world, items are no longer built to last, they have short lifespans. Phones get replaced every three years, and clothing falls apart after a few washes so people replace it every month, if not weekly.

There are some things my family has had for more than ten years that have lasted the test of time, from our Christmas tree my parents bought more than twenty years ago to the dining table they have that has been repurposed into a desk. These pieces were built to last, unlike many products today. Take my computer, for instance. In the six years I’ve owned it, I’ve had to replace the battery. But, the battery is glued inside the device, requiring the replacement of an entire panel.

This isn’t an accident. Kyle Wiens, CEO of iFixit, says Apple censors information so that consumers find it harder to repair devices, making them more likely to buy a new one.
A prime example of this approach is wireless earphones. They are designed with batteries precisely placed and glued into the devices, making replacements nearly impossible. The result? Consumers are left with no choice but to discard and replace them when the battery dies—further fuelling the cycle of waste.

The design flaws and deliberate barriers to repairability aren’t going unnoticed. Recent efforts, such as New York’s legislation on the right to repair electronic products and the EU’s new environmental regulations, demonstrate a growing awareness of the issue. While some companies are taking steps toward sustainability, these efforts remain insufficient to counteract the immense damage already done.

Conclusion: Netflix Buy Now! No novelty, but worth watching


It may not be a groundbreaking concept, but the Netflix documentary Buy Now! effectively exposes corporate manipulation. Hopefully, it will reach a broader audience.

While corporations and governments bear the greatest responsibility for systemic change, as individuals we hold significant power too. We can demand accountability from companies, advocate for action through our local representatives and most importantly, make mindful choices in our daily lives. This means buying less, prioritising true quality garments that are made to last and exploring vintage or second-hand options whenever possible.

Before making your next purchase, ask yourself: Do I really need that new fast-fashion dress?

Every decision we make has the power to challenge the status quo and contribute to a more sustainable future.

✍️ Post written by Sorcha Gorman, a scholar from Melbourne / Australia, studying Public Relations at Università Cattolica in Milan. Currently interning with suite123.

Netflix: Buy Now! The Shopping Conspiracy – Why you should watch Read More »

Galliano Departs Margiela – Now Confirmed

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 2 minutes

A decade transfiguring contemporary fashion


The news is here, freshly reported by fashion outlets: John Galliano departs Margiela. While his tenure brought substantial growth to OTB—the group that owns the Maison—it also exemplified a troubling trend in contemporary fashion: the distortion of archival treasures that deserve respect. For this reason, we view his departure without regret.

Galliano’s time at Margiela was pivotal for both parties. For OTB, it was a period of rapid growth and brand elevation. For Galliano, it provided an opportunity to rehabilitate his public image following previous controversies. Now, after more than a decade of collaboration, Galliano exits the Maison, leaving behind a legacy that has sparked both acclaim and critique.

In our earlier post, Decoding Margiela’s Gallianification, we examined how the brand shifted to reflect Galliano’s personal identity. This transformation mirrors a broader industry pattern: creative directors imprinting their aesthetics on every house they helm, often at the expense of the brand’s original vision.

A troubling pattern in the fashion industry


What Galliano did with Margiela is emblematic of a larger issue in the luxury fashion industry. Creative directors often place their personal vision centre-stage, overshadowing the founder’s ethos. Their approach recycles a singular aesthetic, applying it indiscriminately across brands. This practice is enabled by corporate resources, extensive archives, and relentless marketing campaigns.

The result? Brands lose their distinctiveness, morphing into interchangeable entities. As creative directors move from one Maison to another, they replicate the same formula under a different logo, leaving behind a trail of diluted brand identities.

This erosion of authenticity and uniqueness undermines the very pillars of luxury fashion. As highlighted in a recent Altagamma report, consumers increasingly struggle to recognise the essence of luxury amidst this homogenisation.

The game of profit over vision


Our commentary reflects the absurd reality of today’s fashion landscape. An industry once celebrated for its idiosyncratic creativity has devolved into an empty vessel, chasing profit over vision. The relentless pursuit of marketability and trends has stripped many Maisons of their credibility and authenticity.

Conclusion


The news that Galliano departs Margiela is not surprising. His tenure served as a platform for personal rehabilitation while driving significant growth for the Maison. However, it also highlighted one of the industry’s pervasive issues: the prioritisation of individual ego over collective heritage.

Now, the question is: Will Galliano do Galliano under his own brand name, where his vision would truly make sense? Or are we about to witness the Gallianification of yet another fashion house?

Only time will tell, but one thing is clear: the fashion industry must reckon with its identity crisis if it hopes to reclaim its authenticity and creativity.

Galliano Departs Margiela – Now Confirmed Read More »