fashion education

De Sarno Leaves Gucci: A Different Perspective

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Was the previous tenure worth the ride? And what game are corporations really playing with fashion?


As Sabato De Sarno abruptly leaves Gucci, the fashion world is abuzz with speculation about the brand’s future. But beyond the headlines, his departure raises deeper questions about the state of the luxury fashion industry and the role of creative directors in shaping iconic brands. While most are focused on who will take the reins next, we’re asking a different question: What is this game truly about?

As the fashion industry remains engrossed in a never-ending game of musical chairs—currently involving other maisons like Dior and Fendi—we can’t help but question the very foundation of the industry itself.

Specifically, in Gucci’s case, we ask: Was the previous tenure—Alessandro Michele’s era—worth the ride?

Retracing Gucci’s path before De Sarno


Alessandro Michele transformed Gucci’s image, imposing his own aesthetic—a chaotic, flea-market-inspired vision where anything was possible but which bore little resemblance to the brand’s heritage. Worse, he flooded the market with products that became repetitive, overexposed, and ultimately unsellable, even at steep discounts.

When the game was over, Michele was dismissed. It was a matter of ego rather than thoughtful stewardship—a failure to honour Gucci’s history and values.

He left, but the damage was done. Gucci’s legacy was diluted, its market oversaturated with items like furry slippers that no one wanted anymore.

The House of Gucci: Enter Sabato De Sarno


De Sarno was tasked with performing a miracle: cleaning up the mess in less than two seasons. Unfortunately, this didn’t happen—and not because of him. Rebuilding a brand’s identity and value takes time. But for corporations, time is a luxury they can’t afford. They are even ignorant about fashion; money is their only focus. They demand immediate results, immediate profits. And in the face of a luxury market slowdown, those profits didn’t materialise.

On this matter, we particularly admire Fecondazione Prada’s satirical take on Instagram:

“Large luxury company looking for new scapegoat.
er… creative director.”

This biting commentary nails the reality of how luxury brands often treat creative directors as disposable, shifting blame when strategies fail.

On De Sarno leaving Gucci


Destroying the legacy of a fashion house might have seemed like a bold move—even a fun game. In reality, it’s a dangerous gamble, one that leaves lasting scars.

As Sabato De Sarno leaves Gucci, we’re not asking who will replace him. Instead, we’re left wondering: What was the point of Michele’s game? Was it ever worth replicating at Valentino? And, ultimately, what game are corporations really playing with fashion?


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SS25 Haute Couture Week Final Thoughts

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Marine fantasies from two visionary designers


As SS25 Paris Haute Couture Week unfolds, we dive into a realm where fashion transcends reality, offering a glimpse into the fantastical and unattainable. Haute couture is not just about garments—it’s a space for dreams and artistic expression at its peak. By the way, it’s about true luxury for a few.

Whether drawing from mythological fantasies or embodying a designer’s essence, haute couture captivates with its artistry. Among the collections that resonated with us were the mesmerizing creations of Jean Paul Gaultier and Yuima Nakazato—each echoing the enchantment of marine life in their own distinctive ways.

SS25 Haute Couture – Jean Paul Gaultier: nautical fantasies reimagined


We were captivated by Naufrage, the sea-inspired collection by Ludovic de Saint Sernin, this season’s guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier. From shipwrecked mermaids to daring sailors, pirates and majestic sailing ships, the show was an ode to the nautical themes so deeply embedded in Gaultier’s DNA. Corsetry, second-skin gowns, and audacious tailoring wove a seamless narrative, staying true to the house’s heritage while offering a fresh, contemporary twist.

This was so much Gaultier—bold, imaginative, and beautifully executed. The brand’s iconic codes were reinterpreted with a modern edge, proving that reinvention doesn’t mean losing identity but rather refining it with artistry.


Yuima Nakazato: ethereal nomads in a dreamlike desert


A dim light. A barren desert at the center of the stage. The distant sound of waves. Models moving in slow motion, as if suspended in time. The Japanese Yuima Nakazato transported us to a world where tradition and futurism merged effortlessly. His garments, a fusion of ethnic beauty and modern innovation, carried an almost sacred quality. The craftsmanship was exquisite, with accessories that perfectly complemented the ethereal silhouettes. The overall effect was mesmerizing—like watching a noble tribe with luminous souls making their way through the vastness of a quiet, moonlit night.


Valentino through the eyes of Alessandro Michele—Valentino?


Alessandro Michele’s first haute couture collection for Valentino left us wondering: do we still need designers who are actually capable of doing their job? Apparently, not anymore. 

A black backdrop illuminated by LED lights. Exaggerated silhouettes. Two details we appreciated: the graceful presence of models of all ages, including middle-aged and beyond; and the focus on individual pieces. And yet…

What we saw wasn’t couture but costume. The collection felt like a direct extension of Michele’s Gucci era, repurposing his own aesthetic that, while impactful, didn’t translate into the world of Valentino. The essence of Valentino’s haute couture— gowns for a few lucky ones —was missing as most pieces were unwearable.

We couldn’t help but wonder: why doesn’t he launch his own brand instead? And above all, how is Mr. Valentino doing after seeing this show?

SS25 Haute Couture Week endnotes


In conclusion, as the SS25 Paris Haute Couture Week comes to a close, we are once again caught in the whirlwind of musical chairs—who exits, who enters, and what it all means. The relentless cycle of change seems to overshadow the very notion of timelessness, while the designer’s ego increasingly takes centre stage, shaping the narrative more than the heritage itself.


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Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture Week

Reading Time: 3 minutes

When lightness meets the weight of Arnault’s words on Trump


One eye on the Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture Week, the other on Bernard Arnault’s praise for Trump. A season meant to celebrate lightness—now weighed down by heavy words.

From Monday, 27 January, to Thursday, 30 January 2025 in Paris, the world of haute couture unveils its splendour. So, a grand display of craftsmanship and imagination—one that ultimately serves a more practical purpose: selling perfumes and cosmetics.

However, we took some time to watch a few video clips, though Arnault’s praise for Trump felt like a cold shower. Bernard Arnault, founder, chairman, and CEO of the LVMH group—a conglomerate that owns Dior, Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, Fendi, Moët & Chandon, and Veuve Clicquot—made headlines with his recent statement:

“I see optimism in the United States after Trump’s inauguration,” he said, contrasting it with France, where rising corporate taxes and growing unemployment are weighing on the economy.

Meanwhile, LVMH reported a 17% drop in net profit, reflecting a broader luxury slowdown. Arnault now looks to the U.S. as a potential bright spot, hoping it will offset weakening demand in China.

A few Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture Highlights


Schiaparelli: Ribbons, bustier gowns, body-hugging dresses, and dramatic special effects. Roseberry looks to couture’s past, to its relentless pursuit of perfection. An unapologetic maximalist, he pushes haute couture to its limits, exploring just how far it can go.

Chanel: A logo-shaped catwalk featuring the iconic double C—white and minimal—set the stage for a collection that exuded lightness. The Chanel woman is fresh and carefree, dressed in soft pastel hues enhanced by accents of purple and red. Now, let’s see what Blazy will bring to the table.

Dior: The concept of a bird-woman made Chiuri less boring than usual. Models walked against a floral, vividly coloured backdrop, wearing punkish feathered headpieces reminiscent of bird crests—symbols of freedom. Ruffles, sheer fabrics, and cage-like crinolines completed the vision. Chiuri, for once, was not entirely dull.

Other shows are taking place, with only a handful streamed live—such as Jean Paul Gaultier. Most follow the “film revealed later” formula, perhaps in an attempt to maintain a sense of exclusivity. Real or not, by the following day, social media will be awash with clips and images.

What kind of world are global leaders shaping?


While we keep an eye on the Spring-Summer 2025 Haute Couture Week as a source of inspiration, we can’t help but ask: what kind of world are people like Arnault shaping? According to him, should France and Europe follow Trump’s vision? Is that really their recipe for a meaningful future?

And what about LVMH’s sustainability commitments? With Trump withdrawing from climate agreements, will LVMH follow suit—or take a stand?

It’s all quite concerning.

Ultimately, what about the end customers? So, what about you? Are you willing to support brands that embrace this worldview?



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Fashion in 2025: Navigating Political Influence and Economic Turmoil

Reading Time: 3 minutes

What lies ahead for the industry?


Fashion in 2025 navigates a delicate balance between political influence and economic turmoil. But what are the challenges and shifts shaping the industry? What lies ahead for the future of fashion?

Recent political events and ongoing wars (including the much-awaited but uncertain ceasefire in Gaza) have generated significant economic challenges, while Trump’s re-election in the US signals an unstable and tumultuous year ahead. Sustainability, once a key focus, has largely disappeared from the agenda, and consumer trust continues to erode.

Struggles shaping the fashion in 2025


If 2024 was a difficult year, 2025 offers little reprieve. According to a report by McKinsey & Company, 80% of fashion executives foresee no improvement in the global fashion industry this year. Furthermore, Trump’s re-election has sparked deep concerns across multiple fronts, with profound implications for the fashion world.

Trump’s proposed tariff hikes threaten to reshape trade flows. As The Times aptly headlines: “The Fashion World Fears High Tariffs”

President-elect Donald J. Trump has proposed a tax of at least 60% on goods from China—a move that could devastate small American brands. Counter-sourcing will likely become one of the biggest struggles for these businesses.

According to the National Retail Federation, Trump’s tariff proposals could increase apparel prices by 12.5% and footwear prices by 18.1%. If Chinese-made goods are hit with higher tariffs, the cost of everything from mobile phone cases to Barbies could skyrocket. In this scenario, pricier trousers may be the least of consumers’ concerns.

Most critically, “The idea that a substantial American apparel manufacturing industry could be revived overnight is a myth,” as designers point out. There are neither enough skilled workers to support such a transition, nor the infrastructure to sustain it. (source)

Yet, Trump’s politics won’t stop at America’s borders—European markets will also feel the strain.

2025: Market trends


The negative environment predicted a year ago has now taken hold. Consumers, having experienced a period of high inflation, are increasingly price-sensitive. Meanwhile, the acceleration of climate change and a marked shift away from sustainability further compound the challenges.

Economic uncertainty, geographic disparities, and shifting consumer behaviours dominate the fashion landscape. To remain relevant, brands must adapt—not by chasing fleeting trends but by proving their lasting value. Consumers demand more than just products; they seek alignment with their personal values and a genuine commitment to purpose.

The way forward


Fashion in 2025 resides at the intersection of political influence and economic turmoil. In a climate of instability, the question isn’t merely about survival but about meaningful evolution. Brands that centre their strategies on value and integrity will stand out. This means doubling down on quality, fostering transparent communication, and investing in long-term relationships with both customers and suppliers.

As we navigate 2025, let’s shift the narrative. Let’s champion resilience, creativity, and authenticity. In the face of adversity, fashion has the unique power to inspire and connect. Let’s make that the legacy of this challenging year.


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Breaking Free From the Social Media Trap: Instagram Algorithms and TikTok’s Future

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Should we adapt or explore new ways to connect?


Exploring the possibilities of breaking free from the social media trap has become increasingly urgent. With Instagram introducing a new algorithm and TikTok facing a ban in the US, one must ask: does it make sense to keep adapting to the strategies of tech giants, or would it be healthier to seek alternative ways to connect?

Although we don’t use TikTok, we can’t deny that the new Instagram layout is a major disappointment. We’ve never been ones to chase the algorithm, preferring instead to use social media as a tool for fostering genuine connections. 

That said, let’s take a closer look at what’s been happening in the social media landscape recently.

Why Instagram’s algorithm changes are problematic


The recent Instagram update has sparked significant concerns among creators and users alike. Here’s why:

1 – Excessive Emphasis on Video Content
Instagram’s new algorithm highlights its ongoing attempt to mimic TikTok, favouring vertical video content. This shift burdens creators who specialise in static content, such as photos and graphics, as the algorithm prioritises 9:16 videos, reducing the organic visibility of other formats.

2 – Disruption of Feed Harmony
For those who have curated cohesive feeds based on the 1:1 ratio, the update is highly disruptive. Truncated posts lose their visual coherence, and there’s no way to retroactively adjust previously published content to fit the new layout.

How the TikTok ban exposes social media’s fragility


TikTok’s brief shutdown on Sunday, coupled with its uncertain future, reveals just how delicate the fragmented social media landscape truly is. The ByteDance-owned platform temporarily disabled its app in the United States to comply with a divest-or-ban mandate. Although web browser access was restored for some US users, the mobile app remained largely inaccessible.

These shifts in the social media ecosystem highlight the growing tension between platforms prioritising fleeting trends and users striving to preserve their creative integrity. Meanwhile, many simply follow along blindly, seldom pausing to question the impact. 

Finding healthier alternatives to connect


Breaking free from the social media trap has never felt more urgent. Our lives, data, and connections are increasingly controlled by a few tech giants. When they change their strategies, we bear the consequences. If they shut down, we risk losing everything. Is this truly a safe or sustainable environment?

Rather than continuously adapting to their ever-shifting priorities, we believe it’s time to explore healthier, more meaningful ways to connect. The power to create a better digital future lies in our hands.


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