fashion education

PFAS: An Invisible Enemy

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Environment, pollution and fashion


There’s a scary, invisible enemy: PFAS chemicals. Found in everything from your favourite outdoor jacket to the drinking water you consume, these chemicals pose a serious threat to both the environment and human health.

To better understand this threat, we attended a Greenpeace meeting at Arci Bellezza with Fashion Revolution, Mamme NO PFAS, CNR, IRSA, and Consorzio Italiano Detox.

We were familiar with the topic thanks to “Dark Waters” – a remarkable movie with Mark Ruffalo. Indeed, contamination is known worldwide: read more on Le Monde.

What are PFAS chemicals?


What are PFAS chemicals?
PFAS (poly and perfluoroalkyl compounds) are a large group of synthetic molecules (over 10 thousand) produced only by human activities. Also called forever chemicals, meaning once released into the environment, we’ll never get rid of them!

What are the health risks?
They are dangerous for health and associated with numerous pathologies, even serious ones, including some forms of cancer. Several European states asked to ban them.

Where are PFAS used for?
Industries have used PFAS since the 1950s to produce numerous commercial products: fabric waterproofers, carpets, leathers, insecticides, firefighting foams, paints, food container lining, non-stick pans, floor wax, detergents and beauty products.

Fashion industry and PFAS
From outdoor garments to water-repellent materials, raincoats, jeans, and undies. The fashion industry uses these chemicals throughout the manufacturing cycle.

The contamination in Lombardy


Greenpeace detected PFAS in the waters of many Lombardy municipalities, including Milan. Carried out on a sample of data – by an independent accredited laboratory – the analyses highlighted the presence of PFAS in 11 drinking water samples out of the 31 collected. In four cases, the PFAS concentration is higher than the limit of the European Directive 2020/2184. In seven cases, the results show variable total PFAS concentrations.

Among the speakers Greenpeace has invited, Michela’s words, a member of “Mamme NO PFAS” – was really powerful! A mother from the Veneto region, the most impacted area, found out her daughter’s blood contained a high quantity of these chemicals. So, she joined other mothers to make their voices heard by politicians, inspiring others to do so.

PFAS: An invisible enemy – How can we protect ourselves?


Being informed on contaminated areas, filter the tap water. However, some articles say to limit the use of products containing chemicals. Which sounds like “take your poison, but take it responsibly!”
But, given that PFAS are an invisible enemy, can we really protect ourselves from them?

We believe addressing single fields, such as fashion, agriculture or others, is relatively effective because there is a major cause we need to address. And this major cause is our economic system, capitalism, which sucks life out of the planet as well as out of humans.

Furthermore, how can we humans consider ourselves intelligent when we pour pollutants into the water, poisoning our own environment?

Donate to Greenpeace to support their investigations!

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Fashion and Books

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Can fashion be a vehicle of culture?


Last week, we attended an event at Nonostante Marras, Antonio Marras‘ store. It was an intimate gathering that connected the worlds of fashion and books.

Fashion: a set for books


With its eclectic mix of fashion, art, and interior design, the shop perfectly reflects the designer’s personality. Indeed, the internal courtyard, filled with plants, provided a serene and welcoming atmosphere. A lovely place for the book launch of “Ostaggio” (Hostage) by Maria Francesca Chiappe.

Lately, fashion doesn’t seem the place for cultural gatherings. Imagine books! According to the ISTAT (National Institute of Statistics), in 2022, 39.3% of the population aged six and over read at least one book a year.
However, we appreciate people who challenge massified trends by offering alternative views for those who still love reading.

The journalist, Giorgio Porrà, conducted a friendly interview with the writer, Maria Francesca Chiappe, who shared her experiences as a reporter in Sardinia and her inspiration for her latest crime novel. Over her career as a reporter, she witnessed so much blood that she doesn’t want to dig into that in her books. So, no blood, her genre is a pure crime.

Fashion and books


What is the book about?


The book is set in Cagliari, Sardinia, during Covid-19. A woman disappears from her home in Poetto. Her car is in the courtyard, car doors open, keys in the ignition, while her five-year-old daughter desperately cries in the yard.
There’s no English translation for now, but you can practise your Italian!

The writer explained the title “Hostage” reflects the many layers of meaning behind the word. And the challenge of distinguishing between good and evil, somehow tracing a line that perfectly separates them.

During the Q&A, someone asked her: “Who do you write for? Do you have someone in mind?” The author replied: “When I write, I do it for myself. I enter into my world, and it’s my moment of pleasure.”
As to say, writing is not just a matter of marketing! Which we loved!

The event ended with a delicious buffet of Sardinian food and an opportunity to connect with like-minded individuals. We adored meeting Maria Francesca Chiappe and the Marras family! But also Guido, a passionate independent bookseller and owner of “Libreria Popolare.”

Books in a fashion context showcase the importance of preserving a diverse perspective in a homologated society. Indeed, fashion needs to be a vehicle for culture.

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Clay Dye: Fashion & Nature

Reading Time: 3 minutes

YWGS: “Green is good medicine”


Clay Dye is a natural dyeing technique launched by YWGS: GoodNeighbors Shirts in collaboration with Yard Works, both from Japan. A new label with a nature-inspired philosophy behind it. Close to the soil, and one with the soil.

In search of a reconnection to nature and overcoming a dualistic viewpoint that sees us separate from it, we found this project perfectly on point. Indeed, humans are nature, and this project celebrates it.

About Japanese style


We are Japanese design lovers! In particular, we appreciate the idea of quintessential simpleness, careful attention to every single detail, the atemporal design and sense of comfort. Also, we value that delicate expression that doesn’t need to scream to be seen. Of course, we know we are not alone, as there are many other estimators of the Japanese style. So, it’s for you that we selected some valuable garments from Japan. (Contact us to know more).

clay dye


YWGS: a new nature-inspired brand


YWGS is the project we introduce today: a collaboration label, GoodNeighbors Shirts with Yard Works.

Kei Amano, a plant expert based in Fuefuki City, Yamanashi Prefecture. Yard Works is his landscape and architecture studio.
Akira Aoki, passionate about music and art, is a fashion designer based in Tokyo. GoodNeighbors Shirt is his brand, a 7-day shirt project. In other words, its style concept is about shirts you can wear comfortably every day.

Therefore, the project joins a plant professional and a shirt professional. A borderless thought, functionality and urbanity from the garden to the city. Specifically, it is a new workwear line that unites gardening and urban style with a comfortable, timeless and genderless aesthetic #formodernhumans

YWGS conveys the concept of “GREEN IS GOOD MEDICINE.” And the nature imprint gets revealed in the clay dye technique.

Clay Dye

Clay Dye: What is it?


Clay Dye is a special dyeing technique: garments are immersed in clay by using high-quality clay from the parents’ farmer home – in Gunma prefecture for 400 years. Akira Aoki majored in dyeing and weaving design at art University. Also, the designer himself dyes shirts by hand.

This tactile experience makes nice shirts with just the right amount of unevenness and beautiful colours. Ultimately, caring for nature and being nature is one thing.

WhatsApp us directly from here to know more!

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What is Fashion Design Today?

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Sharing some thoughts on contemporary fashion design


What is fashion design today? What is it? When everything is already done and nothing new can be made? But you still happen to read news about “the one who complained the other one copied her.”

So what is it when those who started their own collection or image concept already did it by taking inspiration from others and remixing what other designers have already done! Perhaps they don’t even realise where their ideas come from.

And what is fashion design today? When contemporary creatives have no humility to say: ‘I made this’ – and this is my style because I took inspiration from this or that designer who made such a fantastic work.

What is fashion design today? If people praise the ones who complain that another designer has copied them! But for what? For flower prints? Or for flowered head decorations? Really?

Again, what is fashion design today? When everything is possible. So brands who assemble clothes as we’ve seen trillion of times, feel like the new gods of fashion.

And when inspiration and remixing have flattened the fashion industry to such a degree that everything, every brand, looks the same. And doing so has deprived fashion of its DNA, core differences and, in essence, of its meaning.

Can modern designers, creative directors and so on stay humble? If they feel copied, Mr Cristobal should resurrect and say something about endless collections made from his archive! Can people understand there is no true genius in the fashion industry nowadays?

On 14 October, in Florence, Antonio Marras arranged a show making clothes for 20 cancer patients; the defilè – “Sfilata del prendersi cura” (the show of taking care) – was a message of hope. You can watch it here. But, an Italian brand accused him of copying her.
Really?

This sterile controversy made us reflect. First, Marras’ idiosyncrasy has never been in question. Also, bravo for this caring project! In the end, what is fashion design today? It’s about copy and paste. In some cases, following a valuable guiding idea. In most cases -those who tend to complain – pointless reproductions we could avoid seeing. Moreover, it has been done so many times, that the arrogance to claim originality seems out of context.

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Miscellaneous Thoughts On Fashion

Reading Time: 2 minutes

A critical perspective on the industry


Three miscellaneous thoughts on fashion we’ve read this week seem to have something in common: fashion’s lack of understanding of its role in climate change.

Fashion & the heatwave in Italy


In order to tackle the heatwave in Italy, Federmoda – the organisation that represents retail and wholesale companies in the fashion field – asks to reduce taxes on made-in-Italy and sustainable garments.
“Made in” is a very tricky concept to address. According to the Updated Community Customs Code (EC Regulation 04/23/2008 n° 450 – art. 36 – on the non-preferential customs origin of goods), a product can be considered of Italian origin – in the customs sense – and contain, therefore, the indication “Made in Italy” when the last substantial transformation or processing took place in our country. Ta-da!
So, brands can make production wherever, then assemble a few things in Italy and get the magic label.
However, since there is no precise regulation, labelling and certifying sustainable garments is way more problematic.
Perhaps this proposal can relieve the pressure on fashion retailers, but it doesn’t change the core issue: fashion business pattern.

Luxury brands & revenge shopping slow down


Consumption of luxury goods in China and the USA has dropped because the much-awaited post-pandemic revenge shopping is slowing down. In fact, stock markets report a general decline for luxury companies. And so, the slowdown in China’s recovery and the cooling of demand from US consumers are impacting top brands who, undaunted, still commit to the same old model.

Vuitton & inconsistency


Pharrell Williams aims to push expansion and growth in sales to Vuitton, but also culture. Undeniably, the white culture has dominated the industry so far, and it seems quite clear what audience Vuitton is targeting by partnering with Mr Pharrell. However, the brand has a long history at its back. So shifting the discussion on culture, specifically a culture not even consistent with its core image, is meaningless.
Let’s say openly: we want to sell more! But there’s no need to mention culture since Vuitton’s culture has nothing in common with this new air.

Three thoughts, one pattern


The above miscellaneous thoughts on fashion are connected: the industry business pattern plays a huge role in climate change. But the discussions industry insiders deliver, basically ignore the issue.

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