fashion critic

Top Brands vs Fast Fashion

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Searching for value in an oversaturated fashion industry


In a world where fashion has become synonymous with rapid turnover and mass production, the line between top brands vs fast fashion is blurred. But, in this oversaturated market, where can we find value?

Top brands and fast fashion are two faces of the same coin. Indeed, they offer the same worldview, just for different pockets. The reason is quite simple: by operating within the economic framework of capitalism, fashion has become a matter of stock exchange more than creativity. In fact, it has shifted its focus from creativity and innovation to financial transactions. Transforming itself into a game of numbers, budgets and unsustainable growth.

Over the last two decades, top brands pursued the logic of perpetual renewal, a characteristic of fast fashion brands. Consequently, overproduction has spiraled out of control, leading to the evident consequences we witness today. And blurring the line between the two segments.

Fast fashion: unsustainable & unethical


Fast fashion is unsustainable and unethical. It capitalises on a business model that disregards environmental impacts and exploits individuals, perpetuating modern-day slavery. While it offers the latest trends and affordable prices, this exploitative approach comes at a significant cost to both people and the planet.

Top brands & luxury products


Interestingly, the narrative surrounding top brands isn’t all about substance. By following fast fashion timing and constant renewal of their products, top brands have stopped offering value. In fact, expensive doesn’t always correspond to a higher quality. Specifically, the correlation between exorbitant prices and superior quality is not guaranteed. Luxury products, often draped in prestigious branding, can often be nothing more than low-quality items benefitting from their labels’ reputation. Easy to sell right because of the brand. Quality is an illusion crafted by marketing.

In short, fast fashion results in poor quality, disposable items, and exploitative production systems. But, by following the same exploitative system, luxury clothing does not equate to superior quality.

A beacon of style: niche fashion


Among this very crowded fashion panorama, can we still find meaningful products?

In this labyrinth of fashion excess, there’s a beacon of hope: niche fashion. Within the cluttered panorama of mainstream brands and fast fashion giants, niche fashion emerges as a ray of authenticity through meaningful garments.

Niche fashion, unlike its mass-produced counterparts, operates on a different wavelength. It focuses on craftsmanship and uniqueness. By valuing quality over quantity, these brands avoid the pitfalls of overproduction and unethical practices.

These brands pride themselves on transparency, showcasing the stories behind their products, the sourcing of materials, and the artisans behind the scenes. In a world inundated with generic trends, niche fashion stands tall, offering individuals the chance to express themselves authentically through their clothing choices.

Most importantly, these brands contribute to a shift in consumer mentality. They advocate for conscious consumption, encouraging individuals to invest in fewer, higher-quality pieces that align with their values rather than succumbing to fleeting trends.

As consumers, it’s crucial to reevaluate our relationship with fashion. The power lies in our choices. Supporting niche fashion means endorsing a more sustainable, ethical, and genuine approach to style.

Within the fashion industry, navigating through the competing narratives of fast fashion vs top brands, our pursuit of value and meaning directs us towards niche fashion. In this space, we uncover a deeper connection between the garments we choose, the stories they tell, and their impact on our world.

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Fashion Creative Roots

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The significance of creativity for the fashion industry


In the wake of Giancarlo Giammetti’s observations, the discourse around fashion creative roots gains further depth when considering the overarching exits of industry creative giants like Martin Margiela, Helmut Lang, and the perspectives of Akira Onokuza, the mind behind Zucca. Their departures were not only about individual choices but symbolic of a larger shift in the fashion paradigm. Specifically, the industry moved from creativity to financial metrics.

Creativity & the current fashion industry:


1. Financial Focus versus Creativity: 

Put into perspective, Martin Margiela, Akira Onozuka, or Helmut Lang’s exits resonate with Giammetti’s comments. Their departures from the industry were not merely personal decisions but reflections of a system that prioritises sales forecasts and mass production over artistic expression and innovation. This departure of creative visionaries underscores the broader trend affecting the industry’s core.

2. Consequences of Overproduction: 

Akira Onokuza’s statement to Brutus Japan in 2021 about pervasive overproduction: “People are overproducing anything and everything,” further accentuates the problem. In fact, the industry’s obsession with churning out excessive quantities, fueled by consumerism, has led to environmental degradation and a devaluation of creativity in the pursuit of profit margins.

3. Reinforcing the Commitment to Change: 

These departures and insights reinforce our conviction that the fashion system must undergo a radical reevaluation. By advocating for limited production, emphasising quality craftsmanship, and prioritising sustainability, we stand with industry leaders who focus on creativity and conscientious consumption.

Creative essence: the core of fashion


In short, the departure of iconic designers and industry voices like Martin Margiela, Helmut Lang, and Akira Onokuza (to mention some of the true geniuses) serve as poignant reminders of the urgent need to shift the fashion industry’s focus. By staying steadfast in our commitment to a redefined value on creativity, craftsmanship, and sustainability, we aim to contribute to the revival of a meaningful fashion.

As fashion strayed from its creative origins, its essence eroded into a pursuit solely driven by financial gain. Therefore, restoring a connection with creativity, its core – is the first step toward achieving sustainability. Only through the reclamation of its creative roots will the fashion industry find purpose and direction.

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Threads of Change

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Elevating fashion with purposeful design and limited quantities


In this exploration, we delve into the threads of change, the transformative power of good design and limited quantities. Join us on a journey where fashion intersects with purpose, quality, and conscious consumption.

The British Fashion Council recently unveiled the winners of the Fashion Awards 2023, an event that celebrates the forefront of fashion and serves as a fundraiser for the BFC Foundation Charity. This gala not only spotlights creative talent but also underscores the pivotal role of fashion at the crossroads of culture and entertainment.

One of the most notable moments of the evening was the tribute to Valentino Garavani for his outstanding contribution to fashion. The celebration was marked by a spectacular fashion show featuring 24 iconic red dresses, all set against the backdrop of “An evening at the opera with Valentino.” This ballet, filmed in his hometown of Voghera, paid homage to his legacy, even dedicating the local theater to his name.
Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino’s lifetime business partner, received the award on his behalf. His interview to the Financial Times Fashion is a lesson on contemporary fashion industry.

Fashion, culture and change


In our journey through the blogging world, we’ve consistently emphasised the intrinsic connection between fashion and broader cultural themes. While this relationship might not be immediately evident to everyone, we firmly believe it exists.

Our message has been clear: fashion is not merely about an endless array of clothing and accessories. Endless catalogues with tons of options, or stores packed with clothes with the consequent need to push people to shop more and more.
Meaningful fashion, to us, embodies the principles of slow fashion, handcrafted garments, precise tailoring, and, above all, limited quantities. This approach isn’t just an aesthetic choice; it’s the cornerstone of sustainability within the fashion industry.

It’s crucial to distinguish true sustainability from what often amounts to greenwashing. In fact, brands or stores claiming sustainability while continuing to overproduce garments are missing the mark entirely.

However, reflecting on Giancarlo Giammetti‘s recent interview in the Financial Times resonates deeply with us. His sentiments echo the very challenges we face in today’s culture, which seems distant from this vision.

Giammetti’s words, particularly, strike a chord:

“We left because the industry changed and meetings were all about money, not design. Sales forecasts decided what got created. The conglomerates made each label work to the same model. We couldn’t launch today. If we did, we’d be doing slow fashion, inviting fewer people to buy, at the highest quality. You don’t have to be judged on the number of dresses you make. And sustainability must be everyone’s preoccupation right now.”

via Financial Times Fashion
Giancarlo Giammetti

In fact, our radical fashion proposition and business model sometimes feel demotivating in a world fixated on overconsumption. But Giammetti’s stance is a comforting reminder. Indeed, it reaffirms our belief: embracing a model based on good design, quality and limited quantity.

These threads of change are a pivotal shift towards a more conscious and sustainable fashion industry. Embracing this ethos isn’t merely a choice; it’s a statement—a commitment to crafting a better, more responsible future through our fashion choices.

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Miscellaneous Thoughts On Fashion

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A critical perspective on the industry


Three miscellaneous thoughts on fashion we’ve read this week seem to have something in common: fashion’s lack of understanding of its role in climate change.

Fashion & the heatwave in Italy


In order to tackle the heatwave in Italy, Federmoda – the organisation that represents retail and wholesale companies in the fashion field – asks to reduce taxes on made-in-Italy and sustainable garments.
“Made in” is a very tricky concept to address. According to the Updated Community Customs Code (EC Regulation 04/23/2008 n° 450 – art. 36 – on the non-preferential customs origin of goods), a product can be considered of Italian origin – in the customs sense – and contain, therefore, the indication “Made in Italy” when the last substantial transformation or processing took place in our country. Ta-da!
So, brands can make production wherever, then assemble a few things in Italy and get the magic label.
However, since there is no precise regulation, labelling and certifying sustainable garments is way more problematic.
Perhaps this proposal can relieve the pressure on fashion retailers, but it doesn’t change the core issue: fashion business pattern.

Luxury brands & revenge shopping slow down


Consumption of luxury goods in China and the USA has dropped because the much-awaited post-pandemic revenge shopping is slowing down. In fact, stock markets report a general decline for luxury companies. And so, the slowdown in China’s recovery and the cooling of demand from US consumers are impacting top brands who, undaunted, still commit to the same old model.

Vuitton & inconsistency


Pharrell Williams aims to push expansion and growth in sales to Vuitton, but also culture. Undeniably, the white culture has dominated the industry so far, and it seems quite clear what audience Vuitton is targeting by partnering with Mr Pharrell. However, the brand has a long history at its back. So shifting the discussion on culture, specifically a culture not even consistent with its core image, is meaningless.
Let’s say openly: we want to sell more! But there’s no need to mention culture since Vuitton’s culture has nothing in common with this new air.

Three thoughts, one pattern


The above miscellaneous thoughts on fashion are connected: the industry business pattern plays a huge role in climate change. But the discussions industry insiders deliver, basically ignore the issue.

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Sustainable Fashion Awards 23

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What are we celebrating?


The Sustainable Fashion Awards 23 closed the Milano Fashion Week. Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana arranged this award ceremony to celebrate the designers who stood out for their environmental commitment, ethical practices and social rights.

We should be happy with it, celebrate the winners and move to Paris! No?

Held at Teatro La Scala, the Sustainable Fashion Awards reminded us that although the fashion industry is polluting, the Italian supply chain is progressing towards a greener way of operating the fashion business.

In other words, this event is a counterpart to the Milano Fashion Week. However, you’ll find the same names you saw on the runways throughout the week, only now under a different umbrella–a green one. Event and brands presented with labels so familiar to marketing, intentionally or not, blurring into greenwashing.

Sustainable Fashion Awards & The elephant in the room


Perhaps industry players, business owners, and designers are developing a higher consciousness about green matters. And, perhaps, some changes could be relevant. However, we cannot understand how these changes can align with a production model based on overproduction.

It’s one or the other! And since the two elements aren’t consistent, they cannot stand on one plate because they clash.

The fashion industry has one major issue: overproduction, the elephant in the room, which none dares to mention. But if we still have overproduction, there’s no sustainability. No effective change in production chains will be enough without interrupting the overproduction pattern.

Sustainable Fashion Awards 23 witnessed a progression in the fashion industry towards greener practices, elevating environmental consciousness. But, as Mr Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Hermès creative director, said at Triennale: “Sustainability, that’s where we have a problem in fashion. We are making a change with low impact facilities and manufacturing practices. Perhaps in 15 or 20 years we’ll see the result and we’ll finally be sustainable.”

Unfortunately, according to climate scientists, we do not have that time. So, in the end, what are we celebrating now?

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