fashion critic

Designers Repeating Themselves vs Journalists’ Commentary

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Paris Fashion Week SS25 highlights the death of fashion criticism


At Paris Fashion Week SS25, we saw the emergence of constructed silhouettes and a renewed desire for more dressy styles; a longing to dress up once again. However, the most striking observation is designers repeating themselves. That coincides with the disappearance of what once was true fashion criticism.

In his critique of Milan Fashion Week, Tim Blanks of B.O.F. highlighted a lack of identity among Italian brands. So, what should we say about Paris Fashion Week? Aside from a few exceptions, like Chloé, Saint Laurent, Yohji Yamamoto, Chanel or Miu Miu — who delivered shows deeply rooted in their brand’s identity and heritage — most others could have been anyone.

Fashion criticism and designers repeating themselves


We’ve seen high praise for Alessandro Michele’s work at Valentino, which is surprising given that his approach seems merely centred on his own aesthetic. It’s as if he’s saying, ‘I love flea market style, and that’s what I bring wherever I go.’ Hasn’t he replicated what he did at Gucci? The only difference is the brand name. But just as one swallow doesn’t make a summer, a bow or a frill doesn’t make Valentino. So, it’s puzzling to read such glowing reviews from journalists when social media reactions have been far less favourable. Many users have called it a Gucci replica, with comments like ‘he destroyed one brand, now he’s doing the same to Valentino,’ and ‘he doesn’t realise people are tired of this.’ Others suggest, ‘he should launch his own brand.’ We’ve explained why he won’t in a previous discussion. Here’s an excerpt:

But why don’t these creative directors launch their namesake brands? They avoid it because out of that box, they lose their relevance. Their skills rely on immense archives and huge investments. They excel at styling and marketing, but the creativity of a fashion designer is a different matter. Their ego overpowers.

Indeed, the journalists’ comments couldn’t be more disconnected from those on social media.

The death of fashion criticism


So yes, we agree with Tim Blanks that brands lack identity. But someone must inform him that this issue isn’t exclusive to Milan. Top brands that have lost their original designers have completely lost their identity as well. They’re now focused solely on making money, and it’s hard to tell one from the other. Boundaries have blurred, and this is one of the reasons why fashion has lost its appeal.

However, we disagree with Tim Blanks and other journalists who praise designers who keep repeating themselves wherever they go. It seems they’re doing it just to secure their front-row invitations.

Fashion hasn’t just lost its identity. Also, it has lost its sense of critique. One style, one pattern, one mindset. No room for dissent.

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Stefano Pilati and The Fashion Compromise

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Integrity or selling out to make a living in the fashion industry?


Stefano Pilati and his recent fashion compromise with Zara has generated significant buzz. However, this collaboration raises questions about selling out in the pursuit of profit. Let’s delve into the rationale behind this move and explore the broader dynamics of the fashion industry that often drive such decisions.

Niche fashion vs mass fashion


It’s important to distinguish between designing clothes for a limited niche and creating for the masses. In the first scenario, the designer gains prestige and glamour, ascending to the status of fashion’s elite. In the latter, the focus shifts to generating significantly more profit. There’s little reason for a renowned designer to collaborate with large fast fashion conglomerates. Except for the money. Especially when it involves a giant that, as the NGO Earthsight has revealed, contributes to the devastation of the Amazon.

Historically, designing for a niche market brought status but limited financial success. But in times of permacrisis, this becomes even more challenging as the niche shrinks, making the work less financially rewarding. It’s through this lens that we can interpret Stefano Pilati’s decision.

According to the launch statement from the Spanish giant, this capsule collection aims to embody a modern vision of dressing, promoting freedom of expression at its peak.

Of course for Zara, this is likely a winning formula: pair a renowned designer with a top model like Gisele Bündchen, styled in a chic Monica Vitti look, and bring in an iconic photographer like Steven Meisel to capture it all in a striking black-and-white campaign. And voilà! The result is a powerful image.

However, the conversation on social media revolves around a simple ‘do you like it or not’ debate, missing the deeper issues entirely. That’s not the point. What about the designer’s integrity? His consistency? Staying true to his vision? What about the respect for his audience and the trust built over time?

On a larger scale, how can people continue to trust an industry that sends such contradictory messages? A fashion industry that, in the pursuit of profit, is even willing to contribute to the devastation of the Amazon?

Integrity or compromise?


Yes, we get it. Making a living in today’s world is harder than ever. Even the TV news reminds us that having a job no longer guarantees a decent life. It’s unsettling, isn’t it? So, we can understand Mr. Stefano Pilati and his compromise with fast fashion.

But, the freedom of expression – as the partnership promotes – only holds meaning when it aligns with the reality around us, such as respecting workers’ rights and safeguarding natural resources.

And so, in response to the question of integrity or selling out to make a living: Can you think of any valid argument that justifies the morality of exploiting labour and destroying the Amazon rainforest?

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Who Said Women in Men’s Clothes Aren’t Feminine?

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Saint Laurent SS25 Paris fashion show: style, gender, patriarchy and feminism


Who said women in men’s clothes aren’t feminine? We find it puzzling that there remains one dominant, traditional, patriarchal, and commercial idea of how women should look. Despite designers over the years presenting broader visions, one specific image continues to dominate.

Yesterday, we had the chance to view the Spring-Summer 25 Saint Laurent fashion show at Paris Fashion Week (watch it here). With a certain pleasure, we noticed how, unlike former designers who removed Yves from the brand name, Anthony Vaccarello revisited the original designer and creator of the brand. Specifically, he brought Mr. Yves Saint Laurent back onto the runway. So, elongated, refined figures walked down the runway in oversized suits that evoked the iconic designer himself. And it was remarkable.

This collection challenged the rigid idea of femininity that women themselves often can’t escape. So we ask again: who said women in men’s clothes aren’t feminine? It’s precisely the opposite – and it’s nothing new.

Yves Saint Laurent – 1967: the first pantsuit


“A year after the tuxedo, Yves Saint Laurent proposed his first pantsuit in his Spring-Summer 1967 collection. It was an unusual design for a suit, which was traditionally worn with a skirt. Just as he did for the tuxedo, Saint Laurent adapted the traditionally masculine suit for the female body. The sleeves were fitted and the waist belted, while the wide pants were flattering for the legs. He added typically female accessories, such as heels and jewelry, but still had his model wear a necktie and felt hat.” (source)

Fast-forward to 2025: Anthony Vaccarello pays homage to the original vision of Mr. Saint Laurent, reviving a look that challenged gender norms in its time and still does today.

In fact, this concept expresses a powerful challenge to traditional notions of gender in fashion. It demonstrates that femininity is not defined by wearing clothes traditionally associated with women. A woman can embody femininity while wearing what is considered “masculine” garments – and look incredibly refined doing so.

This shift reflects a broader cultural movement. Designers, fashion icons, and feminists have long argued that fashion should not be confined by gender. Figures like Coco Chanel, who popularised trousers for women, and Yves Saint Laurent, who introduced the women’s tuxedo (Le Smoking), played pivotal roles in reshaping this narrative.

What happened next?


So, from a cultural perspective, what happened after Chanel? What happened after Yves Saint Laurent? And what happened to feminism? If designers like Saint Laurent showed us that femininity transcends garments, why does contemporary feminism seem to lean more toward the image of Marilyn Monroe rather than the elegance of Saint Laurent? Why has this nuanced view of style and gender been overshadowed by more commercialised, sexualized aesthetics?

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Milano Fashion Week SS25 Celebrates Ignoring the Storm

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Exploring fashion’s refusal to acknowledge reality


Milano Fashion Week SS25 has just closed, and while the event was celebrated with high-energy words, it has done so by ignoring the storm brewing around the industry. The message seemed to be: No worries, better times will come. But, the contrast between the stakeholders’ storytelling and the fashion industry’s current struggles is hard to overlook. Despite the glamour, both the Chamber of Fashion and most brands continue to ignore the undeniable realities – financial instability, unsustainable practices, and a larger economic and planetary crisis.

This disconnect is unsettling, as the focus remains on maintaining an illusion of success while the foundation crumbles.

About Milano Fashion Week SS25


Magazines, TV news, and interviews painted an energising picture of the MFW SS25. “Many international buyers, most from Asia,” boasted Mr. Capasa. Yet behind the scenes, a different story unfolded. Some fairs experienced entire days without any attendance. It’s clear: selling something in a controlled environment means highlighting only the positives. But business as usual, amid economic, social, and planetary crises, feels deeply misguided.

We quote Cristiana Schieppati from “Chi è Chi News” as her words resonate with us:
“But let’s talk about this week, which has been a bit like my dog when I scold him, and he gives me that guilty look. Everything felt a bit subdued, with few people around (very few foreigners), lots of marketing, few newspapers handed out outside the shows, and many phrases like ‘hang in there, better times are coming, we’re doing fine despite everything.'”

This season’s runways saw more creativity, blending playful elements with good tailoring. Perhaps this was fashion’s attempt to deflect from the harsh reality. A desire to offer a bit of joy amidst an endless “permacrisis.” Archive pieces were given new life in chaotic, contemporary ways, encouraging individuality through personal style. The message seemed to be: wear clothes however you want, and bring statement pieces into everyday life with a casual twist.

And yes, we could mention some shows we found interesting. In fact, some designers did great work capturing the essence of their vision. For instance, Antonio Marras, Prada, Bottega Veneta and Moschino. But at this point, does that really matter? And what’s the sense in celebrating sustainability when the same names that dominate Fashion Week are rewarded year after year? How can the industry claim to be embracing change when it continues to spotlight the very players whose practices remain questionable?

Conclusion


Despite the brilliance of some collections, Milano Fashion Week SS25 has ultimately chosen to celebrate while ignoring the storm, showcasing the industry’s startling refusal to confront reality. Who needs to make a change if not the Italian Chamber of Fashion?

By the way, we have little reason to believe Paris Fashion Week will be any different.

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Update To The Fashion Calendar

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Fashion week dates for September – October 2024


In a collaborative effort to streamline the workflow, the organizations responsible for New York, London, Milan, and Paris Fashion Weeks have released an update to the fashion calendar. You might wonder why only now. What has changed? 

Having worked in the industry for over 25 years, it was apparent to us that industry leaders operated in isolation. Or we should say, one against the other. Indeed, councils released dates without considering the impact on buyers, showrooms, exhibitors, and everyone in the field who faced the challenge of flying from one city to another on a very tight schedule. The absence of a collaborative approach has always been evident.

What’s new


In a joint statement, the British Fashion Council (BFC), Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI), the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), and the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) informed they are collaborating on the 2024/25 fashion week dates 2025 for the four major fashion capitals; New York, London, Milan and Paris. 

In order to avoid overlaps and create synchrony for the fashion calendar, the councils have met to set agreements on the start and end dates of each fashion week. Following ongoing discussions between the organisations, the decision aims to benefit the trade audience travelling between the cities as well as the on-schedule designers. So says the press release.

Fashion weeks serve as global showcases for designers, relying on an international presence to amplify the work of participating brands. The councils collectively aim to prioritise the guest experience and ensure that designers receive maximum exposure to the travelling trade audience.

September 2024 womenswear: the new fashion calendar


The below dates have been agreed upon unanimously by the BFC, CNMI, CFDA and FHCM. 

NEW YORK 
Friday 6th September – Wednesday 11th September 

LONDON 
Thursday 12th September (from 5 pm)– Tuesday 17th September (until 12 pm)

MILAN 
Tuesday 17th September (from 3 pm) – Monday 23rd September

PARIS 
Monday 23rd September – Tuesday 1st October 

Conclusion


Eventually, the time has come for the long-overdue update to the fashion calendar. When one fashion week ends, the next can start. Simple, right? So why did it take so long to reach this point?

The fashion industry is complex, involving various groups, activities, and forces. Of course, a collaborative approach is fundamental to achieving the best possible results for everyone involved. But, to give you a sense of how collaborative fashion industry leaders are, consider that it took a pandemic, months of luxury slowdown, and warehouses packed with unsold stock to push them to work in synchrony. 

In other words, as the fashion industry faces collapse, the councils unite. 

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