couture

Fashion out of the beaten paths

/ Leave a Comment

Emotions & beauty in a distinct venue

Come and discover fashion out of the beaten paths, where you’ll find exceptional artisanal work made with care and love for uniqueness.

Walking through showrooms for our Spring-Summer 24 research, it’s been amazing to witness the work of some designers who express their own vision of fashion. Those who follow their own path, meaning they don’t feel involved in the latest trends just to sell more. Those who offer a good design, beautiful fabrics, and timeless quality. Away from the commercial logic of overproduction and mass distribution. Precisely, they do the opposite. Few words and hard work. Therefore, they provide real value.

A path of recognizable value

For instance, entering Marc Le Bihan‘s space was like opening the Narnia door: you open it and get in a world apart. Set up in a post-industrial structure, a large room with big windows from which a late summer September sun brightened the garments. After a look around, a shiny black piano in a corner gave us a clue we didn’t get immediately, just because we did not expect it. Indeed, while peaking through the clothing along the perimeter of the four-room sides, we noticed a wood bar behind them. So we connected the dots: it was a dance school! 

Fashion out of the beaten paths

Marc Le Bihan’s “Danseuse Line” has found the perfect frame. But so it was for the gorgeous pristine white lace or linens, the silk slip dresses in different shapes. And the tye-dye knitwear. Likewise, Jean-Francois Mimilla’s materic jewels, whose precious crocheted hand work makes them unique. 

Uniqueness out of the beaten paths

And so, the atmosphere was unique, warm, quiet and poetic. Marc le Bihan’s clothes, like Jean Francois Mimilla jewels, delivered a tactile experience made of dreamy creativity, out of the ordinary, and, because of its uniqueness, even more beautiful.

Independent designers and artisanal fashion provide the opportunity to own unique, high-quality pieces that are not mass-produced or widely available. That is the essence of luxury style.

However, the whole set-up affirmed that there’s still something meaningful in fashion. It doesn’t have to mingle with the mainstream. Indeed, it’s not for all, but you can find exceptional fashion out of the beaten paths. 

Another note of appreciation: the space was fully accessible. Don’t take it for granted in the fashion field!

The Silk Double Dress

Timeless nonchalant elegance

Today we introduce The Silk Double Dress – by Marc Le Bihan.

Fashion to us means offering a value choice, meaningful pieces made to last. And creativity, together with artisanal production, makes fashion special. Indeed, these elements give life to unique garments, beautiful pieces that you don’t find everywhere. And it is part of their intrinsic value.

When it comes to searching for uniqueness, creativity, and artisanal work, Marc Le Bihan has a lot to say. So let’s discover another one of the stunning timeless pieces we picked out for the Spring-Summer season.

The Silk Double Dress

About the design
This lightweight dress is made of two layers of silk featuring an asymmetrical cut and under knee-length. Specifically, they are two separate dresses, which you can wear all together or just one. A tone-on-tone Chantelle lace along the neckline and a front lace flower enrich the above dress. The second dress is less decorated, with boat lace detailed neckline and lace along the hemline. 

The Silk Double Dress
The Silk Double Dress
by Marc Le Bihan

About the material
100% silk. The hand is soft and slightly shiny. Moreover, its creased effect makes this dress suitable not only for special occasions but for a dose of nonchalant elegance.

About the colour
Bronze: a delicate dusty shade that adds a sophisticated touch. The image is impalpable and refined.

Laundry
Dry clean.
However, it is possible to wash carefully by hand in cold water with very soft soap and add white vinegar to prevent colour loss.

When you wear the complete ensemble, The Silk Double Dress is opulent but effortless at the same time. If you choose to wear only one layer requires a slip dress under, and even if less rich, the image is always beautiful. 
For special occasions, pair it with minimal heels. Or, try it with lace-ups or flat sandals for a nonchalant outfit.

Drop us a message for any further information. We’d love to assist you!

The Asymmetric Silk Top

Uncompromised fashion

Finally, and long-awaited, today we introduce The Asymmetric Silk Top – by Marc Le Bihan.

After giving you more information about the work of Marc Le Bihan designer and his uncompromised vision of fashion, it’s time to discover his unique pieces.

What stands out is that garments designed with mastery don’t need marketing labels (which are frequently fluff or fake). Why? Because those pieces have a soul. Therefore, they incapsulate all the values such as timelessness and sustainability now popular in fashion. But for a more selected audience who can understand good design and quality, straight to the point.

Discover The Asymmetric Silk Top

About the design
The idea starts from a slip top, two thin straps and a v neckline along the front and back. Specifically, two overlapped layers of silk, with raw-cut hemline, shape an asymmetric drape along the right side, which recalls a long tail. Indeed, in the unique silhouette and richness of the material lies the absolute beauty of the design.

About the material
100% silk. The hand is soft and slightly shiny. Moreover, its creased effect makes this top suitable not only for special occasions but for a dose of nonchalant elegance.

The Asymmetric Silk Top
The Asymmetric Silk Top
by Marc Le Bihan

About the colour
Rose poudre: a delicate dusty shade which is feminine and easy to match.

Laundry
Dry clean.
However, it is possible to wash carefully by hand in cold water with very soft soap and add white vinegar to prevent colour loss.

This statement top is seasonless and timeless, and it works from elegant to refined-cool situations.
Our styling tips: try it with a maxi skirt or a white or black tuxedo for elegant occasions. But we like it with red or denim too for aperitivo or dinner. And why not with a pair of shorts and flat sandals for your summer evenings.

The Asymmetric Silk Top will make you feel unique wherever you are.

Drop us a message for any further information. We’d love to help!

Artisanal, creative, independent

The value of exceptional work

The work of Marc Le Bihan represents a meaningful business model. And so, before showing you his gorgeous clothes, we wanted to share again the conversation we had with him. Because it is not about standardised fashion. So, please, take time to know more, to understand the quality and the value offered. 

Marc Le Bihan is a fashion designer, artist, and craftsman who creates clothes like a second skin. Indeed, his work goes beyond any classification. His conceptual creativity – manifested through impeccable tailoring, is the expression of a cultured and timeless approach to fashion that refuses trends and their transience.

Completely disconnected from commercial fashion constraints, his couture is a rare example of consistency.

Marc Le Bihan – The interview

• What does it mean to be consistent? Keeping up with your vision when the rest of the world goes in a different direction?
Marc Le Bihan: “The other direction is not my world. I do not understand it. To me, it’s a problem of society. I don’t understand the way of being, the lifestyle. That world is not me, and I can’t even think about it.
Usually, I don’t watch TV. Yesterday I watched Italian TV, and I wondered, how is it possible? Women pretend to be free, showing exaggerated lips and boobs. But in that, I only see the reflection of a man’s vision. That is not freedom. It’s the fake image of a woman.”

• The state of fashion now. How do you see it?
Marc Le Bihan: “The problem with fashion is that people only see the lights, the famous people. There is no sensibility to go further. Branded products are not luxury, not anymore. Luxury is rare, and it’s not for all.
To me, it’s not about fashion but more about doing clothes my way. The two roads can cross each other but not as direction to follow.”

• What do you think about social media communication?
Marc Le Bihan: “Famous people promote everything. They get paid to sell, it’s all about money. And not only for fashion. Maybe they promote a food they didn’t even taste. We live in the culture of image, not real life. People don’t live the moment, take pictures. And everything is ego-centred. People have lost the meaning of quality and quality of life.
That is why I follow my path.
And so, our communication is not to do any communication. Everything is too confused, there’s too much of it. We don’t have time for social media, we are busy making clothes. However, it’s not about posting a thousand things. Sometimes we post. Enough.”

Marc Le Bihan top


The cultural issue

• It’s a matter of culture and education?
Marc Le Bihan: “Always. The first problem is education, for everything. The idea of accessing through culture and education to something higher – is dead. And I am concerned about young kids. Now they are totally immersed in this image game.”

Sustainability vs Marketing

• What do you think about sustainability?
Marc Le Bihan: “Well, I did it 20 years ago! We were recycling and upcycling uniforms and parachutes. I don’t want to be a part of that circle because everybody is doing it. It’s marketing. To me, it’s more about how we consume and live. Of course, I use sustainable materials, but I don’t advertise. To claim it means being part of the system. My idea is to keep a garment for ten years in the wardrobe, then take it out and still want to wear it because it’s timeless. Mine is a work in progress. If a shirt is good, it’s good forever.”

“Couture is sustainable by definition. There is no overproduction, no minimum orders, and no sales. We produce only on orders, and everything is handmade. Moreover, we find our balance not in over profit. But if everybody gets well paid, we all can live. My staff has been working with me for 25 years. Always the same people, same suppliers. We understand each other. We work like this. Many pieces are made in casa, a la maison, in our atelier.”

And he smiled saying those words. Stubbornly showing a path that is a return to the essential, pure artisanal creativity.

The work of Marc Le Bihan: sustainable, indeed

The work of Marc Le Bihan is artisanal, creative, and independent. Though a rarity in the fashion system, it indicates a valuable business model for a sustainable future.

The artisanal way

Possible, more than ever

Usually, behind a collection, there are massive production chains. But there is still fine handcrafted work which we are not used to anymore. Understanding the time and dedication involved in making it is a good exercise.

This week we received Marc Le Bihan‘s order. The delivery was late, but we quietly waited for our selection we made during the Spring/Summer selling campaign in Milano.

The process behind a collection

In short, based on their inspiration, designers put together the ideas, design them and transform them into samples. Then, they show the pieces to international retailers in Milano, Paris, Tokyo, and New York. They take the orders and then launch the production, which is a real struggle nowadays. All this takes a lot of time, attention, and care. And stress too.

Specifically, in Marc Le Bihan’s case, it’s a 100% artisanal production. So take the usual time, attention, care and stress and multiply it by 100.

Behind a collection - Marc Le Bihan


Now, add a pandemic that made the world stop. So production chains have been disrupted, and suppliers delivered raw materials late. This chain effect will impact the following seasons.
The pandemic is not over yet, and as if it wasn’t enough, add the Russian invasion of Ukraine, a war in Europe.
So take that dose of stress that we have just multiplied by 100 and double it down.

Perhaps this is the common denominator that connects everyone who runs an independent business. Corporations are affected too, but they play with money and they’ve got their basis covered. Also, they can find some easy loopholes.
But independent companies, independent brands are the brave ones. They are at the heart of the communities, and they represent the real sustainable choice.

Artisanal rarities

Among independent brands, you find an authentic rarity like Marc Le Bihan. A designer who made his consistency one of the highest values. Couture and limited productions of high-quality garments made with care, clothes made by hand in his workshop. It is artisanal work, and it takes time.

Understanding the time needed to make tailored clothes means understanding and appreciating their quality and higher value. Our expectations were high and 100% confirmed by the absolute beauty of the clothes we unpacked.

Since quality takes time, we waited for it with reverence. Soon we will describe the pieces, and you’ll discover another universe, which is still possible. Now, more than ever!

The upscale drive

Revising the (over)production model

Ending the diffusion lines is one of the strategies implemented by fashion Maisons lately. Why this change of direction? And is it the start of a new business model?

What is a diffusion line?

The diffusion lines, also named second lines, are ready-to-wear collections whose name is similar or somehow recalls the designer’s name. The inspiration and design of these clothing and accessory lines come from the Maison archive. But they get simplified in terms of patterns, working, and materials to offer the spirit of the brand at a lower price. More affordable, or relatively so. However, much lower compared to the main lines.

Indeed main lines dominate the high-end segment of the market, meaning they are expensive. But if they remained in that high-end segment, brands would miss the majority of the market.

So, driven by greed and speed, brands launched diffusion lines as an opportunity to expand the business and maximise profits. Specifically, diffusion lines were conceived and produced for the mass market.

Apart from some trailblazers like Armani, whose Emporio line was born in 1980, many diffusion lines started spreading in the 90s and mushroomed during 2000. For decades brands focused on evergrowing, ever-expanding, overproducing, and heavy discounting policies. So they triggered a vicious cycle that led to an oversaturated market deprived of value.
Now, something is changing. Some fashion Maison backed up, undertaking a new (or not so new) route.

The new strategy: quitting the diffusion lines

Recently, Valentino decided to eliminate the Red Valentino line from 2024 (launched in 2003) to focus more on couture.
Likewise, Chloè is to phase out its See by Chloé line over the next three years, addressed as a – “natural and necessary evolution for the long term.”

So, in the short term, brands have maximised profit through secondary lines. But, in the long run, this strategy has compromised the market and their own image.

Now the market is almost dead, and this forced them to change their path.
If fashion Maisons want to stay relevant in an oversaturated market, they need to do some cleaning. Ending the diffusion lines will allow brands a more focused business model.

Though we do not expect they will stop overproducing, we are curious to see what they will do next!

The fashion debate

The fashion debate taking place after the shows navigates between the same old system and pretending new ways. The interviews recently released seemed to send nonsensical messages. Indeed, it’s easy to notice a lack of consistency. Words don’t match facts and resonate like a short-circuit in the industry.

However, if we want to change for the better, understanding what’s going on in the fashion field is fundamental. So, we have to analyse designers’ messages and perhaps, read between the lines.

The debate highlights

On the one hand, the runways were all about merchandising. With the fashion shows, designers promoted a compelling ‘shop now’ message – more than ever. Proposals perfectly aligned to the pre-pandemic era, with no interruption regarding the lexicon.

On the other side, they are releasing interviews about sustainability. Some send ethical messages, eco-friendly references. While some others are talking about couture as a decisive strategy.

And so? What is the sense in that?

To make it clear, it is one way or the other. Or the fashion debate is pointless!
Designers have to choose on what side they are on. A brand cannot produce tons of goods and then feel better because they select some sustainable materials. Or because they also have a couture line that, maybe one day, will save the world. In case the world shifts its direction for real. But, in the meantime, they push for over-consumption.

The choice is between overproduction or couture, mass-market versus lesser productions. It’s one or the other.
Focus on pure merchandising or conscious proposals, one or the other.
Empty marketing claims to show to the world how ethical or sustainable they suddenly became versus providing value and beautiful collections.
Again, between fostering the status quo or having the courage to start something new. It is one or the other.

They can’t have it both ways.
The two ingredients don’t fit on the same plate.

A conversation with Marc Le Bihan

Sunday morning, it was pouring hard when we reached our appointment with Marc Le Bihan – in Tortona district. Even though we made our selection the day before, we wanted to dig deeper into his profound couture universe. In a transitional era, where everything looks unstable and meaningless, his persistent artisanal contribution makes the difference.

Marc Le Bihan is a fashion designer, artist, and craftsman who creates clothes like a second skin. Indeed, his work goes beyond any classification. His conceptual creativity – manifested through impeccable tailoring, is the expression of a cultured and timeless approach to fashion that refuses trends and their transience.
Completely disconnected from commercial fashion constraints, his couture is a rare example of consistency.

Marc Le Bihan: the interview

• What does it mean to be consistent? Keeping up with your vision when the rest of the world goes in a different direction?
Marc Le Bihan: “The other direction is not my world. I do not understand it. To me, it’s a problem of society. I don’t understand the way of being, the lifestyle. That world is not me, and I can’t even think about it.
Usually, I don’t watch TV. Yesterday I watched Italian TV, and I wondered, how is it possible? Women pretend to be free, showing exaggerated lips and boobs. But in that, I only see the reflection of a man’s vision. That is not freedom. It’s the fake image of a woman.”

• The state of fashion now. How do you see it?
Marc Le Bihan: “The problem with fashion is that people only see the lights, the famous people. There is no sensibility to go further. Branded products are not luxury, not anymore. Luxury is rare, and it’s not for all.
To me, it’s not about fashion but more about doing clothes my way. The two roads can cross each other but not as direction to follow.”

• What do you think about social media communication?
Marc Le Bihan: “Famous people promote everything. They get paid to sell, it’s all about money. And not only for fashion. Maybe they promote a food they didn’t even taste. We live in the culture of image, not real life. People don’t live the moment, take pictures. And everything is ego-centered. People have lost the meaning of quality and quality of life.
That is why I follow my path. And so, our communication is not to do any communication. Everything is too confused, there’s too much of it. We don’t have time for social media, we are busy making clothes. However, it’s not about posting a thousand things. Sometimes we post. Enough.”

White series from Marc Le Bihan SS22 collection
Marc Le Bihan SS22

Fashion, culture & sustainability

• It’s a matter of culture and education?
Marc Le Bihan: “Always. The first problem is education, for everything. The idea of accessing, through culture and education, to something higher – is dead. And I am concerned about young kids. Now they are totally immersed in this image game.”

• What do you think about sustainability?
Marc Le Bihan: “Well, I did it 20 years ago! We were recycling and upcycling uniforms and parachutes. Now, I don’t want to be a part of that circle because everybody is doing it. It’s marketing. To me, it’s more about how we consume and live. Of course, I use sustainable materials, but I don’t advertise. To claim it means being part of the system.
My idea is to keep a garment for ten years in the wardrobe, then take it out and still want to wear it because it’s timeless.
Mine is a work in progress. If a shirt is good, it’s good forever.”

A final note about couture

“Couture is sustainable by definition. In fact, there is no overproduction, no minimum orders, and no sales. We produce only on orders, and everything is handmade. Moreover, we don’t find our balance in over profit. If everybody gets well paid, we all can live. Indeed, my staff has been working with me for 25 years. Always the same people, same suppliers. We understand each other. We work like this. Many pieces are made in casa, a la maison, in our atelier.”

He smiled saying those words. Stubbornly showing a path that is a return to the essential, pure artisanal creativity.

The exception to the rule

They say every rule has its exception. And, of course, we couldn’t escape. A few days ago, we wrote that fashion Maisons whose original designer has left, lose their meaning.

Indeed, this is not the case with Valentino, the exception to the rule.
Since the duo Piccioli – Chiuri has split from co-designing the brand, Mr Pierpaolo Piccioli didn’t miss a single beat. Though, we cannot say the same about Chiuri’s work.

From the moment he went solo, Piccioli’s design has been a celebration of the Valentino codes. He carefully paid respect to the founder’s work, elaborating the brand DNA while adding a touch of modernity. Elegance has certainly not been lost.

On July 15, we saw the Fall/Winter 21-22 Valentino couture show, streamlined from Venice’s Gaggiandre, Arsenale. What better occasion to find a valid exception to the above rule. The show was a dialogue between fashion and art, presented from a magnificent set-up.

If fashion is not art, it is true that both forms of expression have many aspects in common: creativity, the vital and founding element that determines the whole process. But also time, experimentation, and skilled hands. All these are crucial elements needed to reach a perfect realization.

For the show, Pierpaolo Piccioli collaborated with 17 painters, and the final result was sublime. The overlapping of bold colours was a joy for the eye, a breath of fresh air. The fluid silhouettes and clean-cut lines, the game of form and colours, showed a modern way to make couture.

Impeccable tailoring and know-how. Effortless beauty and elegance.
An expression of art. And a real celebration of couture.

The state of fashion & the couture revamp

Top brands are rediscovering and relaunching their couture collections. And eliminating the diffusion lines, as Valentino did with Red Valentino, for instance.

The couture orientation could be a re-emerged desire for well-done items among tons of junk clothing. A strategy to clean up a collapsed market, focusing on their original identities. Or the research for a more sustainable model. Both possibilities are worthy.

In fashion, we should do like the music bands: can we imagine Queen without Freddy Mercury? or Nirvana without Kurt Cobain?
For instance, why should Margiela make sense designed by someone who has his opposite vision? Although John Galliano is one of the greatest couturiers, Margiela is not Margiela anymore.
What about Balenciaga? or Gucci? Brands lost their identity, and now it’s game over.

Couture and heritage

In todays’ panorama, we believe historical Maisons should repurpose archival pieces in a modern version to keep alive the designer’s heritage. And no, we are not referring to the so-called “modernity” of the recently relaunched Balenciaga couture line. Was the pigeon toe an example of modernity? We don’t think so.

As conceived nowadays, couture and brands in general, when the designer of the Maison is dead or has left, lose their meaning.
Although there is a vague inspiration coming from the archives, we see very little respect for the creativity and work of the original designer. Instead, a certain arrogance of the newcomers prevails, aiming to show their own vision while disfiguring the original. There are very few exceptions.
So conceived, fashion is simply a way to make money out of the brand name legacy, in addition to an ego game. All the magic is gone.

Since overproduction is killing our planet, couture and demi-couture collections offer a more controlled and limited production model. The higher quality wouldn’t hurt either.

The return of the “atelier” with a unique selection of worthy pieces and custom-made items is the opposite of the mass distribution model we saw flourishing till now. They would offer value and sustainability.

And maybe we’d see the rebirth of fashion.