2022: a year in fashion

Looking back at 2022, it seems that this year in fashion went by without any tangible sign of change. Indeed, retracing the events and analysing how brands run their businesses, everyone went happily back to normal.

Fashion advertising

Advertising released catchy stories creating a bubble which depicted a universe disconnected from reality. Over the 80s and 90s, the context promoted superstars, but now the ostentation is pointless and not appealing.
As regards marketing, forget sustainability, it’s all about greenwashing.

2022 in fashion design

From a design viewpoint, less but better was supposed to be the guiding principle to help the industry move forward. A clean and more focused fresh restart after the pandemic. But it seems that message has not been taken seriously by fashion brands. Perhaps it was something nice to say during a tiring moment, a way to move with the flow. Indeed, we witnessed a setback during the last fashion shows.

Furthermore, now that celebrations and parties are back, sequins and cheap fabrics are everywhere, again. Just looking at the pictures on social media or advertising on tv, the poor quality of the materials is the first thing you notice!

There’s no escape! The imperative of cheap clothing, accessible products that give the illusion of richness, is still very strong.

Fashion industry in 2022

Likewise, fashion companies have set up no measures to reduce the impact on the environment. Also, considering working conditions, we are far from giving workers decent wages.

From luxury brands to fast fashion, the rules are almost the same. And the difference between one or the other segment is just a matter of spending power. By the way, fashion is in the hands of finance, big groups pursuing perpetual growth. Therefore, overproduction which in turn fosters overconsumption. And, this toxic practice is always at the heart of the fashion business.
The industry is immersed in a consumerist culture exploiting people and the planet without no understanding of the scale of destruction it carries around. And no will to change.

2022, has been another tough year in fashion.
Throughout the year, we wrote a lot about the need for a different way of operating the fashion business, but perhaps it was naive to expect it for real.

However, we’ll keep working in fashion, searching for quality, good design and uniqueness. Only what really counts, and in limited quantities.


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News from the fashion industry

What’s going on in fashion?

Reading the latest news from the fashion industry sounds like an earthquake is happening. And what a week!

A brief fashion news recap

Alessandro Michele is exiting Gucci. Honestly, we aren’t sad about it. The Maison and its new designer, whoever will be, will face a tough challenge to clean up the circus he made. And bring back the heritage and historical relevance of the brand.

Balenciaga: another brand that has intentionally killed its heritage to undertake a nonsensical path. Moreover, the brand released one of the most disturbing advertising campaigns to launch their plush bags. Children holding bondage teddy bear bags somehow connected to paedophilia is a disgusting message. Not only sexualising kids is horrendous. But it is a clear sign of a lack of ideas. By the way, we could live without plush bags these days!

Raf Simons is shutting his namesake brand, maybe to focus on Prada. Even though he is a great designer, there is something we miss. Since he started his co-designing collaboration with Prada, the Balenciagitis phenomenon has affected his vision. Indeed, exaggerated jackets reminded Balenciaga so much that they seemed borrowed from their fashion show! Consequently, Prada stopped being copied and started copying instead.

Where is fashion heading?

So, where is fashion heading? A reflection on this topic is necessary. Can the fashion industry evolve from its current state of confusion?

The pandemic was a game changer, but big groups ignored it. Indeed, they thought they could keep up with their pattern: overproduction and making a lot of money. But it seems that provocations and logoed items aren’t enough to survive.

This is fashion in the hands of finance: a blob of mass products. Items covered with logos, taken to the extreme and pretty ignorant. Also, designers lost their crucial role, and marketing experts took their place.

However, we cannot ignore the meaning of the latest news from the fashion industry: reality has dramatically changed, and a new path is needed. Therefore, if brands don’t bring about new ideas, marketing experts will sell their logoed items on another planet!

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The fashion month: a step backward

What did you expect from the SS23 fashion shows?

The fashion month is over, and the idea of changing it vanished among global hysteria.

From NY, London, Milano and Paris, the Spring/ Summer 23 runways favoured the physical format plus streaming. But some brands opted to reveal the digital version later, not without leaving a certain perplexity. Because this way of looking for an angle, being the cool ones who pull themselves out, seemed more like a step backwards in a digital era.

However, there were so many outfits on the runways, most of which were ugly and just a few interesting concepts. And stealing designs, now the norm killed brands’ identity. But if you expected a different approach, you would be disappointed. The wind of change, so much discussed during the last two years, is gone. Disappeared. Evaporated!

The industry is back to normal!

And in case you were one of those afraid of a back to normal during the pandemic, there we are! Totally there! 100% there! The countless number of outfits put together in every show was impressive. Such an endless overconsumption pattern has nothing to do with change. And nothing to do with sustainability.

Furthermore, one of the most popular shows sent out a model in underwear, and then someone sprayed on her body. From an engineering viewpoint, it can be interesting, even if McQueen did it first in Spring 99. But it doesn’t seem to be sustainable. Indeed the material sprayed contains plastic, so it sounds like they are promoting single-use plastic.

Even though facts did not correspond to words, all the big groups claim the sustainability umbrella.

Fashion lacks consistency

The fashion industry seems like an enormous bandwagon with no courage or maybe no real will to change. And the reason is simple. Changing the pattern leads to degrowth, which means lower budgets. And so, lower profits.

But if brands are so interested in showing their sustainable standards, why was there no trace of it in their fashion shows? Do we still believe that using a sustainable material or building an eco-friendly atelier makes a brand sustainable? No, it only builds up a facade.

As revealed through this fashion month, this industry, which relies on a polluting and exploiting system, has no intention to change.

So please, forget all the talks you may have heard in the last two years! Industry players just had a reactive moment because they worried about losing everything. Now that the fear is gone, so is the will to change!

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