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The fashion month: a step backward

What did you expect from the SS23 fashion shows?

The fashion month is over, and the idea of changing it vanished among global hysteria.

From NY, London, Milano and Paris, the Spring/ Summer 23 runways favoured the physical format plus streaming. But some brands opted to reveal the digital version later, not without leaving a certain perplexity. Because this way of looking for an angle, being the cool ones who pull themselves out, seemed more like a step backwards in a digital era.

However, there were so many outfits on the runways, most of which were ugly and just a few interesting concepts. And stealing designs, now the norm killed brands’ identity.
But if you expected a different approach, you would be disappointed. The wind of change, so much discussed during the last two years, is gone. Disappeared. Evaporated!

Fashion month: the industry is back to normal!

And in case you were one of those afraid of a back to normal during the pandemic, there we are! Totally there! 100% there!

The countless number of outfits put together in every show was impressive. Such an endless overconsumption pattern has nothing to do with change. And nothing to do with sustainability.

Furthermore, one of the most popular shows sent out a model
in underwear, and then someone sprayed on her body. From an engineering viewpoint, it can be interesting, even if McQueen did it first in Spring 99. But it doesn’t seem to be sustainable. Indeed the material sprayed contains plastic, so it sounds like they are promoting single-use plastic.

Even though facts did not correspond to words, all the big groups claim the sustainability umbrella.

Fashion lacks consistency

The fashion industry seems like an enormous bandwagon with no courage or maybe no real will to change. And the reason is simple. Changing the pattern leads to degrowth, which means lower budgets. And so, lower profits.

But if brands are so interested in showing their sustainable standards, why was there no trace of it in their fashion shows? Do we still believe that using a sustainable material or building an eco-friendly atelier makes a brand sustainable? No, it only builds up a facade.

As revealed through this fashion month, this industry, which relies on a polluting and exploiting system, has no intention to change.

So please, forget all the talks you may have heard in the last two years! Industry players just had a reactive moment because they worried about losing everything. Now that the fear is gone, so is the will to change!

Fashion & music

Fashion is not only what we wear. Fashion involves the environment around us. Fashion is the music we listen to as well.

Indeed, there is a clear parallel between fashion and music. Both have developed precisely the same pattern.

What kind of music do we listen to nowadays? Which one is popular?
DJs are sampling pieces from the 70s, 80s or 90s, remixing them, then the singer of the moment gives the voice. And, here it is, the modern creative effort.
Usually, this music is popular for a few months. Perhaps none will remember a single track one year later.

Of course, there are always exceptions. Take, for instance, “Walk this way” by Run DMC. Well, as we said, there are exceptions.

What kind of fashion do we see now?
DJs are the new fashion designers. They take designs from the past and apply logos all over, following the above remix pattern.
Design skills are not needed anymore.

Some time ago, a TV show celebrated Fabrizio De André, the great poet-musician. And they interviewed his wife, Dori Ghezzi.
Singers who recently won the Sanremo Festival went on air in a clip, guys dressed up to promote fashion brands more than music but acclaimed as geniuses.
Afterwards, they asked her: “What do you think?”
She replied: “At the time of my husband there was a lot of space, we have experimented a lot, and done a lot. Now maybe these guys don’t have much left. They are scrambling.”

Ads disguised as entertainment – this is how they call it marketing gurus, indeed.

The sampling of things already seen, stealing other people’s ideas that pass for absolute novelties. It is the sign of our times. And in both fields, fashion and music, it is marketing, not art.

But in the end, we do not have to accept it or fit in. We have the freedom to differ, to think differently.