Fashion & lifestyle

Ujoh SS26: Elegance in the Anthropocene

Reading Time: 3 minutes

At Paris Fashion Week, Ujoh showcases a wardrobe for a feverish planet


For its SS26 presentation at Paris Fashion Week, Ujoh reimagined elegance for a world grown warmer.

The Japanese summer has become unforgiving. A climatic reality that now grips cities from Paris to Milan to New York. As the air grows thick and the heat intensifies, the very notion of getting dressed can feel like a burden. Yet Ujoh resists this surrender, proposing instead a summer uniform that is light, ingenious, and elegant. A way to maintain one’s style even as the climate becomes more extreme.

A marine inspiration runs throughout the collection. Sailor collars gain structure, fastenings recall a plastron, and trousers open like sails. The house’s signature layering evolves into a study in breathability, while between skirts and trousers, new hybrid forms emerge from a design process that allows unexpected volumes to blossom.

Ujoh SS26 at Paris Fashion Week


The fabrics embody the essence of summer. Ujoh’s tailoring becomes lighter, realised in airy gabardine, fluid poplin, and cotton and linen blended with rayon to preserve a graceful drape. Mesh and technical textiles are strategically incorporated to create zones of ventilation. Every detail serves daily life. Pieces are easy to care for, practical, and perfectly suited to the pace of urban Japan, without ever yielding to mere informality.

Each piece stands strong on its own by design, yet together they compose the unique harmony that defines Ujoh. A shirt unfolds into a boat neckline; a mesh top is re-conceived as a polo; a scarf-cap reinvents the accessory as a modular object.

The sea returns as a recurring motif. A net-dress reimagines a fishing net as delicate lace, while embroideries sketch the outlines of tropical leaves. Stripes evoke the classic seaside elegance of Italian lidos and retro swimwear. Against the skin, silver jewellery—cuffs, bangles, rings—captures the shimmer of water, echoing the simple, soothing joys of summer.

The collection’s palette remains rooted in the urban landscape: a sober trilogy of black, white, and beige that is radically Japanese and unbroken by the heat. Within this framework, Ujoh inscribes a singular note: a distinctive blue, poised between a lilac-grey and a deep navy, which serves as the signature hue for the collection.

Final thoughts


What emerges from this sober palette and thoughtful construction is nothing less than a blueprint for elegance in the Anthropocene. This collection rejects the false choice between style and practicality. Instead, Ujoh SS26 sketches a summer that is both resilient and joyful, where lightness means not surrender but vitality. Clothing that breathes, adapts, and elevates the everyday. True to its DNA, the house offers a silhouette that is fully dressed, deeply elegant, and universally relevant for the world we now inhabit.

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Deloitte: Brand Connection – The age of meaningful brands

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Beyond selling — how true relevance is built through authenticity and culture


According to Deloitte’s study, Brand Connection – The Age of Meaningful Brands, a global survey of over 7,000 consumers reveals a significant shift: trust is growing in local businesses (43.1%) and niche brands (39%), while confidence in large brands lags behind (36.9%).

This trend is particularly strong in Italy, where 45.7% of respondents say they feel no strong attachment to any brand — highlighting a high propensity for brand switching.

Andrea Laurenza, Consumer Industry Leader at Deloitte Central Mediterranean, contextualises the data: “In recent years, brands have consolidated their position, but loyalty can no longer be taken for granted. Companies with clear identities, authentic narratives, and direct relationships are rewarded by consumers.”

In an era of consumer volatility, the ultimate challenge is clear: a brand must move beyond mere existence and achieve true relevance.

From visibility to meaning: What brand relevance actually looks like


So, what does this relevance look like when the campaign launches and the social media posts go live? It’s a practice far more nuanced than just being seen.

As Laurenza puts it, “Being relevant for a brand means occupying an authentic space in people’s lives. True relevance is achieved when a brand doesn’t just sell, but takes part in the cultural conversation, remaining faithful to its identity even as the context evolves.”

This means:

  • Resonance over noise. It’s not about shouting the loudest, but speaking with a voice that aligns with your audience’s values and your own core identity.
  • Action over announcement. It’s the difference between a brand making a statement on a complex geopolitical or social issue, and one that aligns its operations with its values. The latter overhauls its supply chain for genuine sustainability. It ensures equitable labour practices from the ground up. Or contributes to humanitarian efforts in ways that feel authentic to its identity. The question is no longer if a brand should take a stand, but how it can do so with coherence, substance, and integrity — rather than merely jumping on a trending topic.
  • Consistency in the conversation. It’s about maintaining a steady voice and set of principles even as trends and algorithms shift.

The Deloitte data confirms it: today, the bond with a brand is built on usefulness, authenticity, and quality. Loyalty is earned, not given.

Brand connection: meaning?


But what do they really mean by meaning?
Have you noticed how some brands use their platform to show solidarity with Palestine or Ukraine?
Have you heard others speak out against social injustice?
Or commit to climate action in ways that go beyond mere greenwashing?
And is simply being on social media enough?

Our search for authentic space


In conclusion, the findings of the Deloitte report resonate deeply with us.
At suite123, we believe in brand connection because we champion meaningful garments — which can only come from meaningful brands.

Naturally, this leads us to reflect on our own path.
How does a small, independent brand like ours — one that chooses depth over noise and purpose over volume — occupy an authentic space?

For us, relevance has never been just a metric for sales. If it were, the journey would be easier, but far less fulfilling.

Our sense of relevance lies in contributing to the cultural conversation with consistency and integrity.
It’s about proving that a brand can be small in scale yet significant in meaning.
It’s about staying real in a world of curated feeds.

And in that space — the space of authenticity, depth, and connection — is exactly where we intend to be.

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The Diane Keaton Principle: Androgynous, feminine, free

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An ode to a woman who defied category—and how her style challenges contemporary female standards


We call it The Diane Keaton Principle: the art of being androgynous, feminine, and free—all at once. Some women change fashion; others change the way we think about it. Diane Keaton was one of the latter—a presence so unique that she redefined femininity without ever trying.

Diane Keaton passed away on 11 October at the age of 79. She was not only an exceptional actress but an exceptional woman—the kind who escaped all traditional definitions. She wasn’t the muse; she was the genius. Her legacy compels us to question what contemporary culture sells as female liberation. Is the performance of sexuality—the revealing clothes, the redone faces—true freedom, or just another cage, designed by patriarchy and capitalism?

Forget the voluptuous silhouette in a seductive pose, which still seems the only accepted way for a woman to succeed. Her signature was self-possession: men’s shirts and ties, timeless turtlenecks, practical loafers, and wide-brimmed hats that concealed her gaze. She didn’t simply wear clothes; she built an armour of elegant intellect.

She was also a natural beauty—no Botox, no plastic surgery, no facelift.

The Diane Keaton Principle: she stands on a flower-filled terrace, exemplifying her androgynous style in a masculine-inspired outfit: a black waistcoat, white shirt, dotted tie, and white pants.

Her answer always lay in her wardrobe. While others chased a narrow, body-centric ideal, Keaton explored the full spectrum of self. Her unmistakable uniform—ties, shirts, blazers, and waistcoats borrowed from the masculine wardrobe—wasn’t a rejection of femininity but an expansion of it. She was wholly, elegantly herself.

This authenticity extended to her face—a map of a life lived without the pursuit of sterile perfection.

She lived by her own words: “What is perfection, anyway? It’s the death of creativity… while change is the cornerstone of new ideas.”
Diane Keaton chose change. She chose creativity. She chose herself.

And in doing so, she left us a masterclass in style—both androgynous and deeply feminine. The Diane Keaton Principle, a rebellion that still challenges what we’re being sold today.

In a world of swollen bodies, grotesque pillow faces, and revealing clothes that nod to pornography more than ever—masquerading as “empowerment,” “feminism,” or “freedom of choice”—we must ask: what kind of choice is it when shaped by systems of power? When “empowerment” becomes just another word for conformity?

Diane Keaton’s style was a subtle revolution. She proved that true freedom isn’t about pleasing the male gaze, but about defining yourself beyond it.

In a culture of duck faces, her thoughtful smile remains a revolutionary act.
Her life proves: style is not a costume to impress, but a declaration of self.

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Luca de Meo blueprint: Putting the customer back in the driver’s seat

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Speed, data, and customer focus: Is luxury abandoning the creative genius for the customer?


Luca de Meo, the Renault-CEO-turned-luxury-boss, has presented his blueprint for reviving the Kering group. His plan involves a radical shake-up: splitting design between creative vision and consumer goods “common sense”, while dramatically slashing development times.

A new mantra emerges: 20% pure creativity, 80% consumer understanding. Let us explore the plan to put the customer at the heart of the house whilst accelerating its pace. In essence, what does it mean for the fashion industry?

Luca de Meo blueprint: The 80/20 rule comes to high fashion


Central to Luca de Meo’s strategy is a decisive move to “put the customer back at the centre, so as to no longer depend exclusively on the creative director’s vision.” This is not about eradicating creative skill, but about applying it more strategically. He asserts that a designer’s individual vision remains essential—but only for the top 20% of a collection, the “most innovative and iconic products” that define a house’s dream.

For the remaining 80%—the core assortment of small leather goods, footwear, and ready-to-wear—a new discipline is required. De Meo argues it is vital to “instill the common sense that prevails in the consumer goods sector,” grounding decisions in a “precise understanding of consumer expectations.”

This heralds a fundamental shift towards a customer-centric vision. Aesthetic choices will no longer flow purely from the designer’s intuition but will be informed by hard data, including market analysis, sales figures, and direct consumer feedback. The challenge — and the ultimate goal — is to meet these tastes head-on “without sacrificing the identity of the houses”. 

The need for speed: Halving the horizon


A direct consequence of this data-driven approach is a dramatic increase in speed. According to French media reports, de Meo aims to halve product development times, compressing the journey from initial idea to market launch from a year down to just six months.

This rapid acceleration signals a fundamental shift, borrowing tactics from fast fashion and intentionally breaking away from the luxury sector’s traditionally measured, meticulous pace. 

It’s a bold gamble that seeks to make luxury more agile and responsive. 

Final thoughts


The Luca de Meo blueprint presents a pragmatic, if radical, prescription to stabilise Kering. But for the wider world of fashion, it prompts a more fundamental question: what truly defines luxury in the modern age?

On one hand, the logic is compelling. In the face of an industry downturn and global instability, the 80/20 model acts as a crucial safeguard. It is a direct response to the kind of reinvention seen at Gucci under Alessandro Michele—a creative explosion that ultimately saturated the market, turning the brand into a marché aux puces where anything goes. In this context, a disciplined return to steadfast maison codes is a defensible strategy for ensuring brand integrity and commercial resilience.

Yet, this very discipline—with its customer-centric data and relentless push for speed—forces a confrontation with the soul of luxury. Can the core values of creativity, craftsmanship, and exclusivity survive a velocity that halves development times? The strategy seems to accelerate the industry’s existing trajectory towards industrialisation, leading us to a critical juncture: are we heading towards a future of mass-produced luxury? If so, what, then, becomes of exclusivity?

This tension invites a pointed critique, coloured by de Meo’s own background: is this a redefinition of luxury, or simply running a fashion house like a car manufacturer, with seasonal collections rolling off a conceptual production line? The blueprint makes its priorities clear; championing a ‘slow fashion’ paradigm is not part of the equation.

In conclusion, the answer, in de Meo’s vision, is unequivocal. For the architect of this blueprint, there is no room for nostalgia. In the race for the future of luxury, there is no space for slow fashion.

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Critique and contemporary language: subjectivity vs shared understanding

Reading Time: 5 minutes

How words shift meaning across culture, fashion, and society


As we prepare to absorb the inspiration from Milano Fashion Week, we find ourselves reflecting on critique and contemporary language. Should words remain confined to a subjective sphere? Or do they also carry a broader, shared dimension? The issue is crucial for achieving mutual understanding — especially in these divisive times.

Critique in fashion and contemporary culture


Critique is the process of analysis, evaluation, and judgment. It involves questioning assumptions, examining evidence, and applying standards (aesthetic, ethical, logical, etc.).
Words like critique — in fashion or elsewhere — naturally exist in tension between subjectivity and shared understanding.

Subjective meaning

Each individual, culture, or professional field can bring nuances to the term. In fashion, for instance, critique might mean a thoughtful aesthetic evaluation, a cultural commentary, or even a business review. For a designer, it could feel like judgment; for a scholar, it’s analysis; for a writer, it’s content.

Shared understanding

At the same time, communication requires a common ground. Without at least a baseline agreement (e.g., that critique is an evaluation beyond mere description), the word loses clarity. A global fashion discourse — spanning Milan, Paris, Tokyo, Lagos, and New York — requires a shared definition so that ideas can circulate meaningfully across borders.

Language: a living ecosystem


In practice, in fashion as in society at large, language works like a living ecosystem:

  • Words are never static; they evolve with cultural shifts. For example, “queer” once carried a negative, derogatory meaning. Over time, with cultural and social change, it has been reclaimed as a term of identity and empowerment within LGBTQ+ communities.
  • Critique in the 1980s fashion press does not mean quite the same thing as critique in today’s Instagram reels. In the 80s and 90s, it often referred to structured reviews by authoritative voices (Suzy Menkes, Cathy Horyn, etc.), published in newspapers or magazines and capable of shaping designers’ reputations. Today, critique is fragmented: it can be a 15-second TikTok reaction, an academic essay on cultural appropriation, or a consumer’s Instagram caption. Authority has decentralised, and critique has stretched from elite judgment to everyday commentary. And even the journalists’ commentary seems bland.
  • Globalisation pushes towards a shared vocabulary, but context (regional, professional, generational) keeps recharging words with subjective layers. The word “sustainable,” for example, has entered the global lexicon, particularly in fashion and lifestyle. Yet its meaning shifts: for policymakers, it refers to measurable impact and regulations; for brands, it often becomes a marketing narrative; for consumers, it can range from “eco-friendly” to simply “durable.” The same word is globally shared yet continuously recharged with subjective layers.

Language & social media

These evolving meanings don’t just change language in theory — they directly reshape how critique functions in practice, especially on social media, where fashion discourse now largely unfolds. On these platforms, language is both personal and public, amplifying the tension between subjective expression and shared understanding.

As Paola Bonacini, Associate Professor in Geometry at the University of Catania, noted: “Social media is a mirror of that small portion of reality, or falsehood, that we intentionally show the world.” This insight frames the current culture with precision.

The role of critique in fashion


In fashion, the tension between subjective and shared meaning plays out vividly: critique has shifted from the authoritative voices of established critics to the fragmented, instant reactions of digital platforms. In today’s “Like” economy, feedback is quantified in likes, shares, and sales. Dissent is rarely articulated; it appears instead as silence — a lack of engagement. There is little room for nuanced, critical argument in comment sections dominated by “OMG!” or “I hate this.”

Here, the collapse of critique illustrates the danger of losing both subjectivity and shared understanding: individual voices are reduced to emojis, while no collective definition of critique holds sway.

Brands are terrified of alienating any customer segment. Taking a strong, dissenting stance — for example, a political or environmental position that might prove controversial — is seen as bad for business. It feels safer to be bland. The industry thrives on collaborations – designer × fast fashion, brand × celebrity, brand × brand. The ethos is mutual celebration and commercial synergy, not critical examination. To critique one is to critique all, so silence prevails.

Fashion has not only lost its identity but also its sense of critique. One style, one pattern, one mindset. No space for dissent.

Critical dissent is dissent that is reasoned, articulated, and backed by evidence and analysis. It is the most effective and respected form because it offers an alternative perspective rather than mere rejection. Without critical dissent — reasoned arguments proposing alternatives — there is no force to challenge the status quo.

Final thoughts


In conclusion, the meaning of words is never fixed; it adapts to changing cultural contexts. Yet in contemporary language, both dimensions are necessary: subjectivity and shared understanding. Subjective meaning keeps a word alive, adaptable, and open to reinterpretation, while shared understanding anchors dialogue and provides common ground.

Fashion is more than a showcase of trends; it is a stage where the health of critique — subjective expression and shared discourse — is tested. Without strong critics or designers willing to dissent from the commercial formula, the fashion system has no reason to change. It simply perpetuates the same profitable, safe patterns — which, by the way, no longer work.

As Milano Fashion Week approaches, we should reflect on critique not just as subjective opinion or shared vocabulary, but as the force that keeps fashion — and language itself — alive.


The meaning of words and the role of critique are ever-evolving. What are your thoughts? Do you agree that fashion has lost its capacity for critical dissent?

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